Anybody have any good suggestions on getting a hub bearing out of a steering knucle. Its on a 2000 Buick lesabre, and the knuckle is aluminum. So I can't beat on it much, or put to much heat on it. I've tried my air hammer and it won't budge. I have it soaking in Aero Kroil, right now.
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Hub Bearing Seized in Knuckle
- Thread starter motorcity
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If I recall I hit the flange with a 5 lb hammer and worked a chisel in until the old bearing popped out. All the corrosion left the rear ring part of the old bearing stuck in the knuckle and I worked that out with vise-grips
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I recently replaced the hub bearing on my 1994 chevy cavalier and the hub was stuck in the knuckle this one is cast iron and this is how i got it out.
Remove the brake rotor,caliper,spindle nut and hub to knuckle bolts then turn the steering wheel so the side that the brake caliper mounts too is turned out and use a heavy hammer and hammer on the back side of the hub away from the knuckle when the hub starts to move out of the knuckle then use a pry bar to pry it out of the knuckle.
When you install the new one put some grease or antisieze on it to prevent it from sticking again. Hope this helps.
Remove the brake rotor,caliper,spindle nut and hub to knuckle bolts then turn the steering wheel so the side that the brake caliper mounts too is turned out and use a heavy hammer and hammer on the back side of the hub away from the knuckle when the hub starts to move out of the knuckle then use a pry bar to pry it out of the knuckle.
When you install the new one put some grease or antisieze on it to prevent it from sticking again. Hope this helps.
Is the CV axle still in the hub?
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Is the CV axle still in the hub?
No it was stuck in the hub bearing, but I was able to finally get it out. I have the knuckle off the car, now. I was thinking about taking the outer CV joint apart and useing it to hammeer the beaaring out.
Is the CV axle still in the hub?
No it was stuck in the hub bearing, but I was able to finally get it out. I have the knuckle off the car, now. I was thinking about taking the outer CV joint apart and useing it to hammeer the beaaring out.
If you dont want to bang and pry,go to a junk yard and get a used one.It probably wouldnt cost very much.One from a junk yard would more than likely be fine to use.
Take the old one with you and compare them to make sure it is the right one and that there is no damage to the used one.
Take the old one with you and compare them to make sure it is the right one and that there is no damage to the used one.
Kestas
Staff member
Our company spent a lot of engineering time to address this issue. The dealers were having trouble with bearings seizing in the aluminum knuckle during warranty. We were looking at all kinds of solutions, mostly coatings. The problem was that every solution added cost to the product, and our customer (the auto manufacturer) told us not to add cost to the product and to just address the solution for the duration of the warranty period.
So, bottom line, the bean counters don't care if your bearing is stuck in the knuckle.
So, bottom line, the bean counters don't care if your bearing is stuck in the knuckle.
A dremel tool or similar can be used to cut a side. It will relieve pressure and will come right out.
A chisel can be used to crack the race.
A little gouge here and there on the hub is of no concern. High spots are a problem, a few low grooves won't hurt anything.
When you put it together, put the bearing in the freezer for a while, and heat up the hub. Use lube. It will go together real nice.
A chisel can be used to crack the race.
A little gouge here and there on the hub is of no concern. High spots are a problem, a few low grooves won't hurt anything.
When you put it together, put the bearing in the freezer for a while, and heat up the hub. Use lube. It will go together real nice.
That bearing has to come out, it can't stay in there. The corrosion won't hold it if hit with a big hammer. Since your putting new one in, you can hit away without fear. Hit it on one side, then 180 degrees opposite, and when it starts to move out, get a chisel or crowbar in and pop it out. Its real easy once you have done this once.
Once out, take a wire wheel and clean out the steering knuckle. Slap on some anti-seize on the new bearing so if someone else ever has to change it it will come out easy. Also look to see if GM has and updated "torque distributing" wheel nut instead of the wire cage nut they put on the factory. Those take less torque (170 ft lbs) and should not wear out the bearing like the first one.
Once out, take a wire wheel and clean out the steering knuckle. Slap on some anti-seize on the new bearing so if someone else ever has to change it it will come out easy. Also look to see if GM has and updated "torque distributing" wheel nut instead of the wire cage nut they put on the factory. Those take less torque (170 ft lbs) and should not wear out the bearing like the first one.
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The 5 Lbs.Hammer solved the problem. Came out this am and gave it a few wacks, and came out. Their was quite a bit of the white powder build up, where the bearing sits in the knuckle. I wire brushed that off and put some anti-seize on it, before installing the new bearing. What a pain, all this for an axle shaft replacement.
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Originally Posted By: motorcity
No it was stuck in the hub bearing, but I was able to finally get it out. I have the knuckle off the car, now. I was thinking about taking the outer CV joint apart and useing it to hammeer the beaaring out.
The next time you need to free the axle splines from the hub splines, back the axle nut off passed the end of the axle shaft and start striking the nut with a sledge hammer. Keep swinging the hammer until you see the axle shaft move inward. When it's free, it'll move inward with each consecutive hammer strike and then spring back out after each strike. You have to be watching carefully as you strike the axle nut with the hammer because if you don't, you won't see when the axle breaks free and you'll be hammering on it even though it's already free. It needs a 4 lb. hammer minimum, but ideally, an 8 lb. hammer is the way to go. The axle nut will be toast, but the axle shaft will be fine.
No it was stuck in the hub bearing, but I was able to finally get it out. I have the knuckle off the car, now. I was thinking about taking the outer CV joint apart and useing it to hammeer the beaaring out.
The next time you need to free the axle splines from the hub splines, back the axle nut off passed the end of the axle shaft and start striking the nut with a sledge hammer. Keep swinging the hammer until you see the axle shaft move inward. When it's free, it'll move inward with each consecutive hammer strike and then spring back out after each strike. You have to be watching carefully as you strike the axle nut with the hammer because if you don't, you won't see when the axle breaks free and you'll be hammering on it even though it's already free. It needs a 4 lb. hammer minimum, but ideally, an 8 lb. hammer is the way to go. The axle nut will be toast, but the axle shaft will be fine.
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