Circa 1985 QS 10-40 in V6 GrandAm 3,000 miles

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Here it is fellas

Blackstone wrote: " Thanks for the note that this oil was from 1985. Back then copper was a common additive in the oil so the 97 ppm here isn't a problem at brass/bronze parts. Universal averages show typical wear levels for this type of engine after 4500 miles on the oil. This oil was run just 3,000 miles, so we're happy to see all wear readings close to or below averages. This engine was started right before the sample was taken, so that explains the fuel we found. The TBN was stong at 5.0, so lots of additive was left. 1.0 is too low. It looks like this old oil is doing just fine. Nice report.

aluminum 2
iron 5
copper 97
lead 6
tin 3
moly 17
Maganese 1
potasium 1
boron 18
silicon 9
sodium 8
calcium 428
magnesium 883
phosphorus 1031
zinc 1347

sus visc 210 67.6
cst 100 c 12.32
flashpoint 355
fuel 1.5
insolubles 0.3
TBN 5.0

for the sake of less typing, anything labled 0 was not put in.
let the games begin!
 
JUST like I thought it would turn out!

You can clearly see how SE/SF oils sacrificed detergency for Zn/P and viscosity spread (as mola has said), although, even with low detergency, the oil still held good TBN.

VERY interesting about copper being an additive in old oils - I've never heard this before. I know copper is used in 'Restore', but I didn't know it was a regular oil additve in OTC oils!

Man, with a TBN of 5, you could probably run this 5-6k miles and be just fine, like many probably did back in the day! I've always wondered what the oil looked like that my Godfather would have run in his 1976 Gremlin that kept it going for 12 years. This, and the PS article have let that happen!

Thank-you soooo much!
 
I don't comment in this section much, however I must do so here. It looks like there is nothing new under the sun in engine oils, only different ways to get there.. Copper by the way has outstanding lubrication properties.. I use copper based anti seize in place of grease/oil in some applications, and it outperforms expensive, top end stuff either grease, or oil most of the time.
 
seems like can go at least 5k?
Man, these oil chemistry is really beyond most people's understanding...
 
Okay, I'll reply as I did in your other thread.
I told ya'll that this oil would do just fine in a moderate performance engine in typical use, and it did.
Edge and Ultra?
For what?
 
Originally Posted By: ridgerunner
I honestly thought there would be more comments...hhmmmmmmm...


I agree - thought folks would be all over this!
 
So much for the shelf life of oil. I would be interested in a comparison of the OLD/REAL pennsylvania based oils to any modern oil. Those old Penn. oils seemed to hold my juiced flatheads together (back in the day). John--Las Vegas.
 
Originally Posted By: Artem
How is the oil still good being over 25 years old... or am i reading this wrong?
He must have gone back and got it with the DeLorean!!
 
I've been promoting lawn and garden oil (v. GF-4 garbage) for quite a while on hard driven cars if you want a smooth running, well protected engine and your doing sub 5k oci. Folks ignore it since they read the front label and it says '"Tractor" or "Snowthrower" and conveniently ignore the BACK label that says Meets API SH/SJ. Of course trhat SH/J ""junk" killed all our engines in the 80 and 90s
wink.gif
They think they "know about oil". He He.
 
I don't know much about oil anyalysis, but the Zinc level is twice that of most newer oils fresh from the bottle. That and how old it is just blew me away. I got a much better reading from this stuff than I did on my Amsoil ASL 5-30. Granted the ASL was ran twice as long in a diff v6 but...

I've got 6 more quarts of this stuff and it ain't goin' in no chainsaw!
 
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