Recommendations for 2003 Ford Expedition

[gto78]

I've got a 2003 Expedition with 141,000 miles. It's the 5.4L engine. I bought it a few months ago and realized it likes to use some oil. It never smokes as far as I can tell, but the oil goes down about a quart every 1,000 miles. The recommended oil from Ford is 5W20.

The engine is a "Triton" series. It has a factory forged steel crank and hyper eutectic pistons. Not sure what rings they use, but I'm sure they're chrome if they went through the trouble to use that expensive crank and pistons. Maybe the chrome would explain some burning, seems like everyone I know who builds an engine with chrome rings ends up burning oil.

I haven't changed the PCV valve yet, but the Expedition forum guys all say it's extremely important to only run a Motorcraft PCV valve, anything else will burn oil (supposedly). Possibly it's been changed to some generic valve with the wrong orifice or spring.

I drive locally to/from work about 50% highway, 25 miles round trip every day. It's my daily driver and not driven hard. I'm looking for a synthetic oil that's not too expensive. I usually change my oil around 5,000 miles. Because of the positive results I was reading on the UOA section of this forum, I started changing the filter every other oil change.

In the past I've always used M1 synthetic, but I'm always looking to try new products. I'm looking for some oil recommendations so that I can start looking for sale items and stock up.

 

[saberz]

Really no need to use a synthetic, but MC blend can be had for cheap and is a very good oil. Definitely stick with the OEM PCV(change it for a few bucks), give you some peace of mind. I can't understand why people would cheap out on a PCV(not you, but other owners). The OEM costs what? 7-10 bucks? And is 100% made for your car and guaranteed to work with the car. Not some generic copy of the part that could be worse in design/material.

 

[addyguy]

I'd try a 10W-30 HM oil in it, to see if it helps. Lots to choose from!

 

[2oldtommy]

Using a Qt. per 1K miles is nothing for an engine with 141k miles. I would go with addguy and choose a 5-30 or 10-30 HM oil with 5-6k OCI. FWIW--Oldtommy

 

[mechtech2]

A step up to a slightly thicker oil will help.
A 5-30 is a good choice.

PCVs are one of the things to get the best you can.

If you have stuck rings, you could try an MMO regimen [big deal, substitute a qt for regular oil ]. Note that this will thin the oil . Not so hot for oil burning or summer, but usually good for winter. Compensate by using thicker oil.
How do you know if this will help? You don't until you try it. But it is cheap and easy, and often helps.

 

[gto78]

Thanks guys, also what brands are preferred? I've not paid enough attention lately to brand names and I'm not sure if any have a better quality to them. The first oil change with this truck I put in Mobil Clean 5000 because I wanted to know the engine was clean, since I didn't know the history of it.

I'll get 5W30 next time, and change the PCV valve right now.

 

[demarpaint]

If you like the Mobil clean I would use that with the MMO to clean up the engine. It is hard to say what is causing the oil use, it could be stem seals, or valve guides and nothing other than a very thick oil will help. OTOH if it is sticking rings MMO is the real deal. It won't hurt to clean the engine internals, and for under $4/qt MMO isn't going to break the bank.

I would run the MMO with the Mobil Clean for 3-4,000 miles then change it out. After that you can give a sythetic oil a try. As far as what synthetic oil, PP is easy to get and one of the less expensive synthetics, it has a great reputation here as well.

Once you make the change to the synthetic I'd add a pint of MMO for the last 1000 miles of your OCI to do some additional cleaning and keep the engine clean. Then maybe once a year add a pint of MMO to the mix. HTH

 

[gto78]

Ok, one other dumb question I have....is there somewhere on this board that explains/lists all the terminology everyone uses? For instance MMO is Marvel Mystery Oil. As far as a ton of others I have no idea, like what is PP? I am trying the search engine and no luck there, search results overload.

 

[Fallguy]

Valvoline "Maxlife" Full synthetic 5w30

http://valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/full-synthetic-motor-oil/

Has some moly, stays in grade does not shear like Penzoil synthetics Royal Purple & Castrol edge does

also has some seal improver agents

 

[someguy]

PP is Pennzoil Platinum and this forum and the $5 off coupon at Walmart converted me over the summer. A 5 quart jug can generally be found for under $20.

 

[gto78]

Good information. On a side note I just recently replaced the oil in my wife's Altima with Valvoline Synpower 5W30, it was on sale at $21 for 5qt jug at wally world. The UOA's are great on that one as well.

So PP is Penzoil Platinum, is there a list of abbreviations somewhere?

 

[tig1]

Since this Expy is new to you and using oil, I would change the PVC valve and go with M1 5-30HM for several OCIs. You may also have some ring coking due to too long OCIs in the past with dino.
The M1 HM may help clean that up as well. Takes time.

 

[Fallguy]

Originally Posted By: gto78
Good information. On a side note I just recently replaced the oil in my wife's Altima with Valvoline Synpower 5W30, it was on sale at $21 for 5qt jug at wally world. The UOA's are great on that one as well.

So PP is Penzoil Platinum, is there a list of abbreviations somewhere?


Note: There is requalar "synpower" full syntheitic and also a "maxlife" full synthetic. Suggest Maxlife full synthetic for higher mi

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: 2oldtommy
Using a Qt. per 1K miles is nothing for an engine with 141k miles. I would go with addguy and choose a 5-30 or 10-30 HM oil with 5-6k OCI. FWIW--Oldtommy


Our 5.4's (2000 and 2002) both have about 130,000 miles on them and don't burn any discernible oil between changes.

OP:

Try M1 0w40 in it. Run a Motorcraft filter. And put a new Motorcraft PCV valve in it.