Ford Escape: No electrical Power. Dead? HELP!

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Definitely check both of your battery cables first.

If that doesn't work, check your major ground connections. This can be tricky, and you'll need an electrical wiring diagram.

I had both problems, at different times, on one of my old cars. Each time, the entire electrical system was dead.
 
Originally Posted By: Solo2driver
Just got home, I'll check things before it gets dark.

It clicked once and still had power to lights/locks/gauges, and then the second attempt went completely dead...not dim, but dead.

You guys are right, AAA snipped the cables and added universals on there. No corrosion and they are tight.

Visually inspected fuses and relays, no burn trace or broken elements but did not check with a light...good idea.


It really sounds like a very bad connection if this is the case. I've seen this before, MANY times, particularly on boats where the environment isn't nice to the cables and ends.

Any chance on taking it to Ford and getting them to put the right cables back on it?
 
I'd also check the starter. If it's bad, drawing too much current, you can observe some strange behaviors.

If the voltage checks out good, and the cables test out good, then look into the starter.

I believe that was suggested before, but I'm not sure I saw anything that indicated the starter was checked, validated or whatever.
 
Originally Posted By: MrMeeks
Are you certain the battery connections are tight and clean?
A short ckt. somewhere is probably draining the battery.Someone should connect an ammeter into the pos. battery cable and begin pulling fuses one by one until the current draining device containing the short is found. I would start with the fuse for the rear window defogger.Hopefully this will help.


I'd bet this will fix it. I've fixed many vehicle elec. problems just by pulling un-needed fuses....
 
Originally Posted By: javacontour
I'd also check the starter. If it's bad, drawing too much current, you can observe some strange behaviors.

If the voltage checks out good, and the cables test out good, then look into the starter.

I believe that was suggested before, but I'm not sure I saw anything that indicated the starter was checked, validated or whatever.


Mechtech and I mentioned the starter.Mechtech said that it may be faulty and I was saying to check the wires at the starter.The starter can have 3 or more wires that run to it where the positive cable connects.If one of these wires is loose,broken or grounded etc.,it can cause problems.I would say that this is where the problem is at,may be wrong
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but I may be right also.The wiring there can be tricky as far as causing problems.Been there,done that on a car years ago.It would start and run and then quit after a while.Replaced alt.,same thing.Wiring at starter was the problem.Fixed wiring,fixed car.
 
My workplace F250 had its main battery to starter wire corrode "internally". I don't know what that means, but a new wire fixed the electrical gremlins. You couldn't see the problem and my diagnostic work missed it.

Our John Deere tractor had a bad relay in the charging/operating electrical system that also caused starting/charging "freak" symptoms. I believe the relay was to the external voltage regulator, if I remember correct.

Good luck
 
So after sitting since Sunday I tried it again. I had power door locks and interior lights. Igntion to the ON position, had HVAC blowers and radio. Everything worked. Tried to START, click and died...no more lights or power anywhere. For like 10 minutes. Then it suddenly worked again, but click and then dead.

What resets itself in the process?

I would immediately say "dead battery" but jumping the car off o the Legacy and also connecting a spare/backup battery to the one in the Escape does nothing....leading me back to a wiring issue. Grrrrrr!

I have had a charger on the original battery now since last night, we'll see what happens when I get home today.
 
When I've seen that happen, it has been due to a loose or corroded connection somewhere. You should do a visual inspection of the battery cables and make sure that the connection is tight at both ends, including the starter end.
 
Originally Posted By: brianl703
When I've seen that happen, it has been due to a loose or corroded connection somewhere. You should do a visual inspection of the battery cables and make sure that the connection is tight at both ends, including the starter end.


Ditto. There is a bad connection on either the pos or neg battery cables. Cables with the wires swaged into the battery clamps often rot/corrode internally making it impossible to tell there is a problem by a visual. Ck the ground cable where it is attached to the body/powertrain, ck the pos cable where it runs into the main pwr distribution box.

This is a 5 minute diag with a multimeter/testlight.
 
OKAY the AAA guy made it over here, could not find anything wrong with the battery. Checked all connections and cleaned the terminals. Still would not start, but it would click consistently.

Traced the cables back to the negative connector loose further downstream.

Fired right up!

Thanks everyone! It's tough when you leave for work in the dark and come home in the dark, today was the first day since Sunday I had time to be here in the daylight!
 
Originally Posted By: Solo2driver
OKAY the AAA guy made it over here, could not find anything wrong with the battery. Checked all connections and cleaned the terminals. Still would not start, but it would click consistently.

Traced the cables back to the negative connector loose further downstream.

Fired right up!

Thanks everyone! It's tough when you leave for work in the dark and come home in the dark, today was the first day since Sunday I had time to be here in the daylight!


Excellent! Hate the vehicle less now?

Isn't it annoying when it is something so BASIC???
 
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