92 Corolla LE 1.6 liter jerks when shifts

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For some reason, the transmission jerks when I shift from N to R after going from D to N. I could be driving and everything is fine but if I shifts when coming to complete stop, it jerks. If I wait for about 15-20 secs to go from N to R, the jerking may be less severe. There is no jerk if I shift very fast from D all the way to P. However, the car will jerk the next time I go from P to R.

I have a lot of things going on so I don't know if this is a new problem or old problem. I know it jerks in the past but I didn't think much of it. Recently, I adjusted the idle speed to let the car idle smoother. Previously, the car idles at 1800 rpm and factory setting is 700. I adjusted it to 900 rpm because 700 rpm will cause the car to stutter and shake. The car idles and drives fine. There is absolute nothing wrong with shifting and gear change while driving. The transmission shifts very smoothly when in D.

I am going to change the fluid Tuesday. I use PYB ATF and change any where from 15-30k miles and has changed the filter and gasket seal about 30k miles ago. I don't change ATF based on time or miles but rather do it together with in one out of every few oil change. The fluid comes out red and new during the change. I have the magnetic drain bolt and there is very little metal shaving. The current fluid as well as previous fluid has a strange smell and the color is clear. It is not a burn smell so I don't know if this is normal ATF smell or what. It smells the same when the car is cold or hot.

The car has factory transmission heat shield around the pan and I drive very gently. My driving is about 8 miles of light stop-n-go traffic due the right lights and morning traffic, followed by 30 miles of 60 mph. In the evening, traffic is heavier so I take the back route to avoid stop-n-go but the speed is only 30 mph during the last 8-10 miles.

Please help. Thanks.
 
I think my Honda Accord did that, but not as severe, about 40k miles ago and went away when I changed the ATF with Honda fluid. There is no Mobil 1 synthetic ATF at Walmart so I may have to go to AAP or AutoZone. I don't recall Penzoil making synthetic ATF. Actually, ATF fluid is much cheaper than regular oil so I may start changing it more often. PYB is 14 dollars per 5 quart jug while PYB oil is 17 dollars.
 
My friend has a 95 Corolla. He googled a similar problem and found a recall in the works. They are replacing ECMs in vehicles with hard shifting. Maybe it applies to your 92?
 
If this is the 3 speed automatic there is no computer control, so no flash can fix the shifting.

If the idle wound up at 1700 RPM on its own, you have a vacuum leak. Even though you got it closer to spec, the rough running you're seeing may be evidence you still have a vacuum leak. (And shouldn't the computer control the idle?) The standard test is to idle it and spray some WD40 or carb cleaner around the intake gasket, brake booster, vacuum hoses and everything else. If the idle changes you found your leak.

With it idling in reverse or drive, you should be able to look at something in your rearview mirror and not have it shake all over the place.

Also your motor mounts may be shot, there's a bit of a clunk within the powertrain anyway but the mounts are supposed to absorb it. Have a friend run through the gears while you watch under the hood, see if the motor shakes more than an inch or so.
 
The idle controller can be manually adjusted. It's a 3-speed with overdrive so I guess it is a 4-speed. It is a 92 so there is no fancy ECM or code to flash to my knowledge but I don't know a lot about cars like many people here.

The shake comes from the AT and only when coming to the complete stop and shifting from D to N to R slowly. If I shift fast, it won't happen until I shift from P to R the next time the car is in use. I think I may have found the problem. It is my driveway being steep and I don't put enough pressure on the foot brake to take the car completely out of forward mode. I checked it this morning at the commuter lot and there was no jerk. I will change the ATF tomorrow just to be on the safe side. I really hate wasting ATF with too frequent of a change; however, ATF is the same if not cheaper than oil and way cheaper than a new AT. I change my ATF anywhere from 15-30k miles. I don't know if the car had ATF changed from the previous owner. I bought it with 64k miles and had changed the ATF twice for the last 50k miles. The filter was also changed.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: eljefino
If this is the 3 speed automatic there is no computer control, so no flash can fix the shifting.

If the idle wound up at 1700 RPM on its own, you have a vacuum leak. Even though you got it closer to spec, the rough running you're seeing may be evidence you still have a vacuum leak. (And shouldn't the computer control the idle?) The standard test is to idle it and spray some WD40 or carb cleaner around the intake gasket, brake booster, vacuum hoses and everything else. If the idle changes you found your leak.

With it idling in reverse or drive, you should be able to look at something in your rearview mirror and not have it shake all over the place.

Also your motor mounts may be shot, there's a bit of a clunk within the powertrain anyway but the mounts are supposed to absorb it. Have a friend run through the gears while you watch under the hood, see if the motor shakes more than an inch or so.


The car doesn't shake when idle or driving. It just jerks during that shifting.
 
You have a computerized idle control. It looks like this:

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There is also a throttle base stop/screw that is what your mechanic is turning. HE IS AN IDIOT. He should be looking for that vacuum leak and letting the computer compensate for the idle.

My 4 cyl saturn idles just fine without shaking at 700 RPM. Something's wrong.
 
Check your fluid level!!! It is not easy to see the level in this vehicle but the level cannot be too low.
 
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