Has anyone ever posted a VOA on a two stroke oil?
I know TC-W3 contain little or no detergents but do they contain any metal based AW additives?
I know TC-W3 contain little or no detergents but do they contain any metal based AW additives?
VOA on TC-W3 or any TC oil?
- Thread starter CATERHAM
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There was some kind of 2 stroke oil posted ,not a whole lot in it if I remember.
If it's no ash, then no metal based detergents. Calcium, Magnesium, Zinc are metals. Crank bearing are typ roller on the higher output units. Most 2 stroke oils have low flashpoint. They may be naphtha based oils. How do they get cleaned? - they burn their crankcase vapours - there exist no oil sump. The downstroke supercharges the crankcase, port is uncovered, air and oil and fuel go IN the chamber, burn, then out the exhaust they go near the bottom of the power stroke.
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Here is a typical synthetic 2-cycle oil analysis:
Fe 3
Cr 0
Ni 0
Al 0
Pb 2
Cu 0
Sn 0
Ag 0
Ti 8
Si 0
B 3
Na 2
K Mo P 21
Zn 11
Ca varies from 50 to 250ppm
Ba Mg 2
Sb Viscosity is around 9.5@100C
Sulfur % wt 0.1%
Edited by MolaKule (03/20/09 12:10 AM)
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Not a TC oil though.
Fe 3
Cr 0
Ni 0
Al 0
Pb 2
Cu 0
Sn 0
Ag 0
Ti 8
Si 0
B 3
Na 2
K Mo P 21
Zn 11
Ca varies from 50 to 250ppm
Ba Mg 2
Sb Viscosity is around 9.5@100C
Sulfur % wt 0.1%
Edited by MolaKule (03/20/09 12:10 AM)
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Not a TC oil though.
Thanks, so it's basically pure oil.
A question I have is why not use straight vegetable oil
which are natural esters?
One possible reason they may not be ideal is that they haven't been degummed enough?
A question I have is why not use straight vegetable oil
which are natural esters?
One possible reason they may not be ideal is that they haven't been degummed enough?
use it my car all the time, as a ucl and cleaner
Castor bean oil is a great lubricant - but will leave gum and varnish deposits apleanty. Good for racing where you tear down after every race or two.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Castor bean oil is a great lubricant - but will leave gum and varnish deposits apleanty. Good for racing where you tear down after every race or two.
I don't think any lubricant has yet proved to be superior to castor oil in outright lubricity. It is king of the vegetable based oils, but it doesn't mix with most other oils and it is also the most expensive.
Degummed castor oil is still used as a two stoke lub' in high stress air cooled applications either straight up or in a castor/syn oil blend.
I used the famous Castrol 'R' which is 100% castor based when I raced motocross in my youth. It is relatively dirty but I could easily go a full racing season without decoking. In 4T applications, engine tear downs were not necessary, but a draining of the oil hot at the end of a race day was part of the regimen since it would oxidize rapidly. If left in the engine to cool it could clog the narrower oil passages which could be a problem upon a cold restart. After draining the oil, you'd allow it to cool and then decant to remove thickened oxidized oil which would sink to the bottom and reuse the unoxidized portion topping up with fresh oil. I know some that would flush the engine with some light 10wt or 20wt mineral oil to clear the lines and the smallest passage ways after each castor oil drain but that was very much an engine specific reguirement best avoided if you could since mineral oil and castor oil don't mix at all.
Vegetable oils vary in their lubricity but all are better than mineral and PAO based oils. The follow report applies to ionized canola oil to improve the lubrication qualities of diesel fuel:
http://www.eion-additives.com/LubSci_2009.pdf
Castor bean oil is a great lubricant - but will leave gum and varnish deposits apleanty. Good for racing where you tear down after every race or two.
I don't think any lubricant has yet proved to be superior to castor oil in outright lubricity. It is king of the vegetable based oils, but it doesn't mix with most other oils and it is also the most expensive.
Degummed castor oil is still used as a two stoke lub' in high stress air cooled applications either straight up or in a castor/syn oil blend.
I used the famous Castrol 'R' which is 100% castor based when I raced motocross in my youth. It is relatively dirty but I could easily go a full racing season without decoking. In 4T applications, engine tear downs were not necessary, but a draining of the oil hot at the end of a race day was part of the regimen since it would oxidize rapidly. If left in the engine to cool it could clog the narrower oil passages which could be a problem upon a cold restart. After draining the oil, you'd allow it to cool and then decant to remove thickened oxidized oil which would sink to the bottom and reuse the unoxidized portion topping up with fresh oil. I know some that would flush the engine with some light 10wt or 20wt mineral oil to clear the lines and the smallest passage ways after each castor oil drain but that was very much an engine specific reguirement best avoided if you could since mineral oil and castor oil don't mix at all.
Vegetable oils vary in their lubricity but all are better than mineral and PAO based oils. The follow report applies to ionized canola oil to improve the lubrication qualities of diesel fuel:
http://www.eion-additives.com/LubSci_2009.pdf
I posted one a few years back:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...4342#Post474342
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...4342#Post474342
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