Snowblower Oil Recommendation

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weebl

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I'm quite excited about my find today, I had to detour because of road construction and went past a snowblower someone had for sale. Started and ran just great. They were asking $150, I offered $100 and it was a deal.

I found out they hadn't used it in the last 3 years after moving here, but were using it when they lived up north. They got it second hand, but I don't know how old it was, or maintenance with the owners before them. The owners I bought from maybe changed the oil once or twice, and the dipstick had very black almost sludgy looking oil.

I'll be operating the snowblower where the temperature is often below -30C, and as cold as -40C. The engine is an 8HP Techumseh (don't know the model), but old enough to have a manual choke.

I do have some old dino Havoline 5W-30 and dino Formula Shell 10W-30, which I am using up on my lawnmower, but would also like to use it in the snowblower. That said, if for the first oil change (to help clean out the engine), or even indefinitely, neither oil is appropriate, I will use something else. I do also have synthetic Rotella T 5W-40 and Castrol Syntec 5W-40, for my TDI Golf which I no longer have. Also some Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30, and Syntec 5W-30 which I don't have enough of either for a full oil change on my Sienna (but will buy more as the next changes come up).

I am almost wondering if a 0W-30 synthetic would be best, as indicated in the owners model of this newer Tecumseh (http://www.tecumsehpower.com/CustomerService/OperatorManuals/pdf/181-630-14.pdf) which looks like it could be an updated related engine.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
yes, a synthetic 0W-30 or 5W-30 would be best - especially up north. Briggs and other engine mfrs recommend the same weight and also say synth is preferred.
 
BTW, the old gas in the tank might run that engine now when the air is warm, but might not vaporize properly in winter temperatures. The light carbon molecules leave the gas and go into the air in warm conditions. It would be a really good idea to drain all the gas and run the carb dry now when it is warm enough to get that old gas to run. Then put a new clean properly gapped spark plug in it. Wait until the weather turns cold and all the gas stations have fully changed over to winter gas. The lighter winter gas will vaporize better in cold temperatures and your engine will start and run better with it. Get winter gas. put in some Sta-Bil in it the same day you buy it, and run that gas in it.

It is also a good idea to turn off the gas and run the carb dry after each use. This is so gas is not left in carb to later evaporate and gum up the carb.

Also most people do not grease the shaft that the shear pin is on. It is important that the shaft not rust to the part it drives. The shear pin must shear if you pick up something that jams the works. If the shaft is rusted, and not lubed you will break the snow-blower if it picks up anything that jams it.

If it has rusted, clean it with some Scotch-Brite general purpose grade and then grease it.
 
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Gas was just filled when I tried it out, but I don't know how old it was in his jerry can. Though it still is summer gas. Seems like a change should be in order. I will definitely check the shear pin. Thanks for the head's up.

If GC is your recommendation as best choice, what do you think of PP in 5W-30 in this application, so that I don't have to get something new?
 
Man, that's cold!!! I'd use the Havoline 5-30 or pick up some M1 0-20.

I run 5-30 M1 in mine, but usually it only runs in temps -5 F and above. Below that, there's operator failure, lol!

[censored], that's cold!!!
 
So I may do the PP this year to help rid some of the gunk, and finish off the Havoline for future changes, and just save the Formula Shell for the lawnmower. Once the Havoline's gone, I'll probably switch to 0W-20 or 0W-30.

I agree, that's way too cold. Thankfully, snowfalls don't seem to be as likely the colder it gets. I just try to stay indoors as much as possible in the winter.
 
I have some M1 0W30 I use in mine, no problems at all, starts easy and runs quiet. I like the 0W-xx oils and M1 at the time was the only 0W30 I could get at any local stores.
 
I've been using 0W-30 for a few years now, and will continue to do so. It works well. Unheated garage.

My suggestion. Use a fill of cheap oil NOW; run the engine for 10-15 minutes at fast idle, change it again.
That should start the cleaning. Then use a good quality 0W-30 for the first few uses this winter.
Judge by color; if black, change it again. My oil gets dark by spring but not black. I also have an 8 hp Tecumseh.
 
I've been using M1 5W30 synthetic for the last three years in my B&S powered snow thrower. I've noticed that the engine consumes this oil at approx. one to two oz. per hour of heavy use. I've read accounts that M1 synthetic gums up the valves on small OPE engines. I plan to switch to conventional oil this winter to see if oil consumption stops.
 
We use straight 30 HDEO at work. If a snowblower sits outside not running for more than a few minutes, you can't start it. The engine gets so stiff pulling the starter drags the whole unit sideways.
 
Originally Posted By: weebl
Gas was just filled when I tried it out, but I don't know how old it was in his jerry can. Though it still is summer gas. Seems like a change should be in order. I will definitely check the shear pin. Thanks for the head's up.

If GC is your recommendation as best choice, what do you think of PP in 5W-30 in this application, so that I don't have to get something new?


PP is SM rated, NOT SL rated, and does not have enough ZDDP for your air cooled engine.

These engines are tough on oil, they do not have an oil pump or filter. And they get HOT inside. You want an oil that has SL inside of the double circle doughnut on the back of the bottle, or an oil that is JASO MA rated. You also want an oil that will not shear down to a lower viscosity in demanding applications. You want the oil to have very good cold flow ability (hence mono grade oils are not good for winter use). Therefore you want a real synthetic. GC is that oil. It is German Castrol Syntec. It comes in a black bottle and is 0W-30. Only the 0W-30 grade of Castrol Syntec is this real full synthetic oil Made in Germany and very shear resistant, and very good cold flow.

Go to Pep-Boys or AutoZone to get it, it is 0W-30 Castrol Syntec in the black bottle. It protects better than 5W-30 or 10W-30, and flows much better. Somewhere on the front of the bottle it will say European Formula. Somewhere on the back of the bottle near the bar code there will be small white print that says Made in Germany. Be sure that the bottle says this. At one time there was a version of 0W-30 Castrol Syntec that was made in the United States, and some stores still have some of it on there shelf because there are enough people who know not to buy it unless it says European Formula on the front, and Made in Germany on the back.

Don't forget to check the spark plug. If the ceramic around the inside electrode is not white, replace it with a new one after you set the gap on it. Engines can be hard to start when the temperature gets low, like when you want to use a snow blower.

Another good tip is to not use full choke when you first try to start the engine in winter conditions. You will require some choke but you do not want to flood the engine (get the spark plug wet with gas). Once the spark plug gets wet with gas it will short out and not spark. So, the trick is use the minimum amount of choke and pull the rope a few times, then add a little more choke and pull it a few more times. Keep repeating this with a slight increase of choke after a few pulls. By not using full choke right from the beginning you avoid over choking and flooding the engine. It is a little slower to start an engine this way compared to using the right amount of choke from the start, but if the gas is good and the spark plug fresh you know the engine will not flood this way, and when you get the choke to the right amount it will start.

Of course you will have to remove some or all of the choke once the engine warms up. On extremely cold days you may have to leave a little choke on even when the engine is warmed up.
 
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Good tips.

BTW the OP lives in Canada. We don't have Autozone or Pepboys, but real GC is available at Wallyworld and most other places for ~$9 qt and up....
 
Originally Posted By: Smokescreen
Good tips.

BTW the OP lives in Canada. We don't have Autozone or Pepboys, but real GC is available at Wallyworld and most other places for ~$9 qt and up....


This year it's been rolled back to <$7 pretty much everywhere. I don't know why...
 
Good to know I should be able to find GC at Wallyworld. Never looked for it before, so I have no idea how readily available it is. The more I think about it, the more I am inclined to go GC or the Esso XD3, supposedly with very similar characteristics to GC.

The link to the manual I provided in this post appears to be for this particular engine, at least the modern incarnation of it. Oil references for this engine are as follows:

"Be sure the original container is marked A.P.I. Service "SL/SJ""

What happens once SL oil is no longer available on shelves? I understand the recommendation for most small air colled engines is to have ZDDP in the forumlation, and the SM spec does not have this. SOL then?

I also see the following statement:

"SAE 10W40 is NOT recommended."

Some have mentioned use of an HDEO in this application. Specifically, I am interested in the unopened jug of Rotella T 5W-40 synthetic CJ-4 I have. Seems like their statement suggests a 40 weight is inappropriate for this application, but how does the Rotella T 5W-40 behave in cold weather, and is it closer to a 30 weight when warm? The fact that it's also an HDEO has me wondering if it would be able to handle fuel dilution. Possibly another HDEO would fit the bill? While GC SL oil is still available, I imagine there will come a day when it isn't. Hence the reason I wouldn't mind exploring the possibility of an HDEO.

Until I get the oil I plan on using in this engine, I'll flush it out with one or two changes of old dino while the weather is still warm.
 
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