confused about cermets

[dmr512]

Thanks. I looked on the Liqui Moly website and think the product you are recommending is Cera Tec. I couldn't find where to buy it in the US however, or the price.

I’m certainly not qualified to evaluate certifications or what they mean and don’t speak German, so that’s helpful info. I looked at the TUV certfication for Liqui Moly products, and it sounds like badly translated German (I hope): “The proof of the conforming application with the regulation was furnished and in accordance with procedure it is certified for the company.”

I wonder if TUV would be willing to verify whether the FriktionTek certification is real or not. If authentic, would that mean I could trust that the certified product does what TUV certifies it does? I read about TUV, and they sound like a well-known and respected organization. Thanks!

 

[dmr512]

Hethaerto, thanks so much. Those are possibilities that I don't think I have heard before, and I will have that checked out. One time I think the air mass sensor was replaced but it didn't help. Other times they played around with the idle, and and it was revving ridiculously high, so I had them dial that back down.

The shop I was using previously is not a place I am willing to go back to, so I'm starting from scratch with this new place. If anyone cares to take a look and tell me if they seem properly qualified, the name of the place is Pampered Auto Care in Austin, TX-- not sure if it's ok to include URLs, so I won't for now. They have many positive user reviews. Or if anyone knows a good and reasonably priced shop in Austin, I would really appreciate a recommendation.

 

[Hethaerto]

Dmr512, just do the work yourself. It's fun and very cheap.

 

[Trav]

Their TUV certificate is genuine alright but TUV only test what is put in front of them.Patent,country of origin,re branded etc are of no particular interest.Was it this FriktionTek substance that was submitted or was it something else re branded like the other proof from MB,MAN,Volvo etc?
Translating German to English can be difficult,i do it every day,some days better than others.

Liqui Moly is a Long established German company doing business worldwide,they are also subject to German laws.

http://matrixsyntheticoils.com/store/product155.html#

 

[Vikas]

Have you listened to NPR Cartalk? On their website, there is something called Mechanix file. You enter zipcode and you get a list of nearby shops. Importantly, you can look at the ratings and recommendations posted by listeners.

Same thing could be done by BOB contributors if you provide *APPROXIMATE* location (don't post your address here!).

You have shown the inclination to do the research. It should be obvious by this time that people are telling you to hold off using Cermet type product until you have determined that engine rebuild is your only choice.

Follow Trav's advice and work with your trusted mechanic.

- Vikas

 

[dmr512]

I appreciate the link, Trav. And I absolutely love Cartalk-- I truly have no idea what they are talking about most of the time, but they are a hilarious and fun pair. I didn't know about Mechanix File which is great to know, and I will check it out--thanks, Vikas!

For the time being, I will go with an engine cleaner product first before I consider a cermet type product. It seems several people like Kreen, so I'll have a look at that. Thanks so much for all the helpful advice everyone on this rather confusing topic.

If you have any Mercedes mechanic recommendations, I would love to know--my approximate location is in the 78759 zip code of Austin, Texas. Thanks again!

 

[Margus]

Mr Trav, Xado has also TÜV certificate, just like Liqui Moly. http://www.xado.ee/sertifikaadid/

Internet specialists who say on anything "snake oil" dont even know about three generations of lubricants:
I - CWL from 1920-s like S, P, Cl or organic acids what react with metal and formed sulfits, fosfats or chlorines what are stronger than metal. Those reduce friction up to 20%.
II - SL from 1940-s like MOS2, graphite, PFTE and metals like Zn, Ag, Au, Pb, Sn. Those reduced friction up to 40%.
III - PDL from 1970-s like Xado and modern liquid additives what need "bad oil" to create temperature 800-1100 C and time to penetrate in metal surface. Those reduce friction even more than 70%

Those are generations of lubricants, not engine oils, but those tehnologies do work, some not so well and some better, in engines also. All expensive oils has them

Sory for typos.

 

[SteveSRT8]

low vacuum can definitely affect the trans shifting.

I am a believer in fixing what's broke. That engine does not sound healthy. Perform the leak down test and get back to us.

Don't look for the 'magic' fix in a can.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: Margus
Mr Trav, Xado has also TÜV certificate, just like Liqui Moly. http://www.xado.ee/sertifikaadid/

Internet specialists who say on anything "snake oil" dont even know about three generations of lubricants:
I - CWL from 1920-s like S, P, Cl or organic acids what react with metal and formed sulfits, fosfats or chlorines what are stronger than metal. Those reduce friction up to 20%.
II - SL from 1940-s like MOS2, graphite, PFTE and metals like Zn, Ag, Au, Pb, Sn. Those reduced friction up to 40%.
III - PDL from 1970-s like Xado and modern liquid additives what need "bad oil" to create temperature 800-1100 C and time to penetrate in metal surface. Those reduce friction even more than 70%

Those are generations of lubricants, not engine oils, but those tehnologies do work, some not so well and some better, in engines also. All expensive oils has them

Sory for typos.


Is this hexagonal boron nitride (AKA white graphite)?

 

[[RT] ProjUltraZ]

what is ceramic about boron nitride?

 

[Margus]

Xado has serpentine Mg3Si2O5(OH)4 (asbestos), that should be official rock of California

Fixing is always best choise but only problem with engine I heard about is uneven compression. Maintenance (valves) and diagnosing (compression- and leakdown test) is not considered as repair. Stuff like Xado is proven to raise and even compression. That means, Xado repairs (as it fixed my turbo leak). I havent heard that TÜV Thüringen (or any other independent organisation) has issued other certificates with test protocols like that.

If you buy "miracle in bottle", ask always for proof, some miracles exist. Even special fuel and engine oil seller should be able to explain every statement it makes (reduces fuel and oil consumtion, eliminates sludge etc).

 

[Trav]

That's what i wonder also.Its often referred to as white graphite,but it seems to be the ingredient used in most of these so called ceramic additives.

Quote:
Xado has serpentine Mg3Si2O5(OH)4 (asbestos), that should be official rock of California


Asbestos particles in the engine?

 

[rmattingley]

Here is my 2cents.
I have a 305 marine engine that was more than tired. Last year I did a round of autorx. Didn't seem to do anything for the engine. this spring I checked the vacuum at the carb and it was non existent at idle. I couldn't get the motor to idle. I checked the compression on one side of the motor. 110, 92, 105, 102. this was after the motor had warmed up for a bit. I was thinking new motor was in the cards, but didn't want to mess with it till this fall. I bought some Ceramizer off the Internet. I figured it wouldn't work, but boats are made for throwing money at, so why not.
I idled it for 4 hours like they recommend and then took for a drive. Didn't seem to run a whole lot different, that was till I shut it off. Usually it was a beast to start. This time it started right up, and has ever since.
Last week, I went ahead and checked the compression numbers and they weren't perfect, but 128, 125, 130, 128 Not bad for a 1987 tired motor.
The only thing I have regretted about using the Ceramizer, is I had a nice 383 project planned, but now my wife wonders why we need to do that when the motor runs so well.
If I replace the engine, I plan on tearing it apart to see what the [censored] this stuff really does and take some pictures.

As for carbon. This is an old trick, but get a bottle of windshield washer fluid, a hose, and a diabetics needle(smallest you can find. Stick one end of the hose in the gallon of fluid. and tape the other end to the syringe and needle. 1/4 hose works the best. find a vacuum hose that you can replace pretty easy. shove the needle in the tube. The motor should suck the fluid in and steam clean your cylinders.

 

[Vikas]

Can one purchase diabetics needle and syringe at a pharmacy. Would Feds come after me if one tries to buy needle and syringe?

 

[c3po]

Originally Posted By: rmattingley
Last year I did a round of autorx. Didn't seem to do anything for the engine. this spring I checked the vacuum at the carb and it was non existent at idle. I couldn't get the motor to idle. I checked the compression on one side of the motor. 110, 92, 105, 102. this was after the motor had warmed up for a bit.


It would have been nice to see a compression test before arx.

Quote:
. I bought some Ceramizer off the Internet. I figured it wouldn't work, but boats are made for throwing money at, so why not.
I idled it for 4 hours like they recommend and then took for a drive. Didn't seem to run a whole lot different, that was till I shut it off. Usually it was a beast to start. This time it started right up, and has ever since.
Last week, I went ahead and checked the compression numbers and they weren't perfect, but 128, 125, 130, 128 Not bad for a 1987 tired motor.


Looks like this Cermet product worked better than auto-rx.

 

[Kestas]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
Can one purchase diabetics needle and syringe at a pharmacy. Would Feds come after me if one tries to buy needle and syringe?

I buy them for 75¢ each from my pharmacist - no questions. They have various sizes.

 

[Vikas]

If I put needle in a vacuum hose, when I take out the needle, does hose needs to be changed? I would think it should hold the vacuum but I don't want to be the first one to find I need to buy a new hose.

 

[Hethaerto]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
If I put needle in a vacuum hose, when I take out the needle, does hose needs to be changed? I would think it should hold the vacuum but I don't want to be the first one to find I need to buy a new hose.


Install a t-fitting that you use to draw the solvent, then cap it off when you're finished.

 

[rmattingley]

As for the motor, I steamed it with needle and water before rx. Sorry didn't take readings.
As for needles, here in Minnesota you can just buy them at a pharmacy. If they ask you why, tell them that you are injecting water into your engine to clean the cylinders. They look at you dumbfounded and confused. I bet they have never heard that before. Sometimes I replace the hose other times I dont. if you go in at a really steep angle the hose seals itself. but if its a little brittle, you should just go ahead and replace it. But make sure you get the smallest needle possible. A little bit goes a long way.