Sorry, I don't play golf. Tried it but have no interest in taking it up.
Did anyone think I redline the engine? No, I use Redline brand oil. My fill on Tuesday might be Redline, might be GC, I'm not too sure just yet. If you want to help me decide; great. If you want to poke fun at my oil nuttyness, no biggie: That's your prerogative, and certainly within the scope of BITOG. I take it in stride and like water off a duck's back. I'm dedicated to not getting upset about a bit of teasing. I already know I'm a bit nuts
You can like it / accept it / work with me, or struggle to change something you can't (me / my oil fetish).
I change oil once a year. I want it to have it done just right. I go through this phase just a few weeks out of the year, but I DO get enthusiastic about other things too! Oil is not my only, or #1 interest or I'd be on BITOG more often! I could expand on my list of hobbies & interests, but rather than get side-tracked, I'll just remind that it's time for an oil change and I want to do things just so.
I have decided to try the BG cleaner and the air purge. Like I said, the mechanic-friend didn't believe it worked either. He drained the oil, engine fully hot, left the drain plug out, went for lunch, and couldn't believe it when another near-litre / quart came out as a result of the air flush, after the hot drain. He also knows what it looks like when most cars come in for an oil change, and when one has come in every 7000 KM and now comes in at 6000 and with the BG purge, more guck comes out. So I have decided to try it.
I am not too concerned about particles in the air, I think if they get stuck in the engine they will get moved out when the new oil gets put in, and pushed through the by-pass when the fresh oil is pumped, before the car is started. That is the BG process, oil is pushed through until spin-on AND by-pass filters, both of which will be new, have oil flowing in and through them, before the engine is started.
I have a dipstick-tube sampling device, I and others have tried and failed to get it to work, there seems to be too great a bend in the dipstick tube. In fact putting in the dipstick in can be a bit tricky, too.
I am confident that the BG additive / solvent will skew UOA results and so I want samples taken before it is added. Winston: Thankyou! I recall a golden rule of sampling is, never sample from the last litre or quart. Like some fellow BITOG people, I figure the oil goes through the engine, and the by-pass filter, and why should the last bit be significantly different? I believe the answer to that is that the bottom of the pan is, (or may be) dirty or have sediment. (I think of a cup of coffee. Why would the first sip be different from the last sip? It shouldn't be, but maybe the filter broke in brewing and there are grounds on the bottom. On my oil pan, I believe some gunk at the bottom of the pan is normal; but that doesn't change the fact that I will go to good lengths to reduce it.)
IF there is edidence of a lot of guck in the pan, after all my past efforts, I want to know about it! I would drop the pan IF I had 'probable cause,' and what I have planned will give me either 'probable cause' / 'reason to believe' that the pan has either enough gunk to warrant reduced OCI or even dropping the pan, OR it is clean enough that I know I'm running the right course.
BigAl said "If you change your oil before the additives are depleted there will never be any need to flush." and at first I thought that was obvious (and correct) but then I got to thinking: I am certain that the oil has a Ph & TBN above one or two, know what I mean? And it has detergency / ability to carry contaminants to one filter or the other; that it is not an over-aged oil, the OCI is not too long, and there is life left in the oil. I believe, for reasons one may call logical (based on the mechanic's experience and the like) or otherwise, that the additive will remove more junk, and that the air flushing will remove dirt & contaminants. If I believed the oil to be over-used, or if the numbers come back that way, I'll deal with it. If I had the money AND reasonable grounds to think it wasn't a WASTE of money, I'd change the oil to Redline or GC, (or plain 'dead dino') and change it again in a few thousand miles. BUT I did that already, 50,000 KM ago. And I've done an Auto-RX cleaning, and am willing to do it again, IF the UOA gives me reason to. And BTW I WILL be getting Terry Dyson to do an interpretation on the results.
True, there is nothing like a short OCI with an A+ oil to make really sure, but my thinking at this time is that is a bit overboard in terms of wasting oil or money. Plus, if I did this twice a year, golly I'd have golf clubs and bags and whatever else, arriving by special delivery at Christmas time!
I will however be wasting money (in the eyes of some, and that includes myself, at least to some extent) in testing the last bit that is blown out, relative to the mid-stream sample, relative to a sample with the additive. That's a lot of $ for a lot of arguably needless tests. The reason is so that people, who first looked at this site knowing little or nothing about oils, will know more about oils, UOA's and the how's, the why's, and the what-if's. I do this for the BITOG community and my motives are altruistic, giving, and educational, even if I get told now and again by long-time friends (and those that have just seen a 5 am posting or two of mine
) that I should expand my horizons, hobby-wise.
I happily co-exist in this world with those people who would rather take good real estate and arguably waste it turning it into a lawn-mecca where you can bash a ball around until you sink it into a cup
This is BITOG, it is here for several reasons and I have my own interpretation of these reasons. And I can spend my $ answering questions we have in common, and helping the newbie, the veteran, and those in between.
Can you really say there is no education or information to be gained by the testing / experiments I have planned?
Thanks for your help