...so I'm burning 1qt. every 200 miles...

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Is there any extra oil underneath the engine or tranny. I know of a case where the engine was leaking only when it was heated up and driving. 200 miles for a quart though is quite a bit of oil. That oil has to be going somewhere and if it is getting by your valve guides into the combustion chamber there would be obvious blue smoke.
 
Try some things if you want, but I don't think it will stop.

I had a 2000 Corolla that burned oil, NOTHING helped; thick oils, cleaners, pcv valve, etc. Mine didn't burn that much either.
 
its going to be expensive adding 2-4 bucks every 200 miles

i'd sell the car entirely

why do these corolla burn so much oil?
 
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After you've exhausted all of the above suggestions [good suggestions BTW], if you can't stop the problem here's an idea. I had a neighbor many years ago that had the same problem you have with his Chevy van. He used 1qt of oil ~ every 200 miles. I had a fairly new fleet at the time, and gave him my waste oil. Free oil, he used it until he disposed of the van. No wasted money, and the oil probably had some life remaining. It worked. He took a funnel type paint strainer and ran the oil thru that before putting it into his engine.
 
I'd use MMO as its cheaper than ARX and see if its a ring. IF it fails, then proceed with RX.
 
Originally Posted By: garlicbreadman
its going to be expensive adding 2-4 bucks every 200 miles

i'd sell the car entirely

why do these corolla burn so much oil?


Expense would not be my reason for getting rid of the car. Fuel price fluctuation will make it look invisible. It's the same as 1/2-1 gallon of fuel per fill up.

At $3000-$5000 in cure, his 3rd generation descendants might recover the cost difference.

Now if he has to pay to have the plugs swapped out every 3 weeks, then you've got a practical roadblock to continued ownership. It involves schedules and downtime and expense on a couple of levels beyond the required service. If he can just plan on a 3/6 month routine plug change, that would fall into sensible routine service points for other tasks anyway. It looks like you've got 4 additional nuts to handle to get to the plugs. That puts it 2nd place to a NEON ease in plug changes.

..but I do understand the desire to remove the hassle from your routine. It's just expensive.
 
I didn't even think of the plug issue. Years ago they'd use oil fouling plugs to get these tired old dogs to run a little longer. Do they even make those plugs anymore? My neighbor with the old Chevy used them.
 
I have had a similar experience with a 1999 model run by my niece, that could not maintain oil level at 90,000 miles (it was always in need of 2-3 quarts to top up -- I would check it every week or two.

My feeling is that this engine has an inherent flaw that really makes things go south at 60,000 miles --- there's just too many datapoints to suggest otherwise.

I would definitely triple check the PCV valve (with the idea that the new one may be faulty) and try the piston soak and Seafoam in the crank approach. I would go to a 10-40 oil.

One plus is that the engine's do not seem to experience ill effects on low oil.

Good luck.
 
Originally Posted By: CD101
Originally Posted By: Quest
1qt every 200miles, that calls for a complete overhaul.

Only through overhaul would your mech be able to determine what caused the accelerated oil burning issues. All other suggestions are pretty much useless in your case (don't waste time dwelling on piston ring soak).

Q.

BTW: 1qt every 200 miles and you don't see smoke at all.... Your quart of oil either mysteriously "disappeared" or formed a major puddle in your car lot floor. There's no 3rd possibilities in this case.




Well, there are no leaks anywhere. Like I said in an earlier post, Toyota says it's blowing blue smoke... other mechanic couldn't get it to smoke. I've never seen any smoke, and I'm always looking for it.


If you're looking for smoke while driving in your rear view mirror, then good luck, you will not see a thing unless it's a smoke screen, but the guy behind you will see a little puff of smoke when starting from stop lights, and he/she will smell it as well.
Check for smoke in the morning, after the engine sat cold all night, have someone start the car while you watch the exhaust pipe, chances are you will see the smoke, but it will not be much, that's why you can't see it from the driver's seat.

Also, you've got some great suggestions here
thumbsup2.gif
, however, don't run out and start trying them out, instead try one suggestion at a time, otherwise you will not know what helped and what did not.
 
Originally Posted By: CD101
PCV valve was checked and replaced by the dealer a few months ago when I had it in. They said the original didn't look that bad, but recommended replacing it anyway. I will check it again though when I do the piston soak.

I plan on doing the MMO soak tonight. I'll try it several times in upcoming weeks. Will probably even try some Seafoam and/or ARX... I've read good things about all 3 products. I'll see what happens after the piston soak, and oil change... see if any difference in oil consumption.

I will also try stepping up the wt. at next oil change, due in 500 miles. OIC has been 3,000 miles.

Thanks for the input gentlemen!


Sounds like a plan. Heavier oil will cause less burning, no matter what. More drag , for sure, but it does slow down consumption like this.
I don't really see why you would have an OCI with this car - it has a perpetual oil change! I'm not kidding!
 
i am having the same problem with my 2000 chrysler 300m. i took it to pep boys (since they inspect your car for free and found nothing wrong but they did get me to pay for a full oil change lol).I was planning on taking a trip to san diego from las vegas but im not sure if i want toos knowing something is going on with the oil.Plus the big steep hill thats like 6000 feet in elevation scares me seeing as so many cars don't make it up the hill) the car has about 103,000 miles on it never had problem with it till now. would i be able to try the suggestions u guys gave him for his car on mine? basically i will put oil and 300 miles later when i check the oil it reads it is right on the MIN- line or lower. http://www.edmunds.com/used/2000/chrysler/300m/12444/specs.html link to car specs just incase :)
 
Start with the PCV system. Go to a 5w-40 to see how it reacts. The reason I say 5w-40 as opposed to a conventional 10w-40 is that there's no reason to process any sheared vii in the consumption. RTS 5w40 is cheap and stout and available at Wally's. 15w-40 would be my alternative weight. Also relatively cheap at Wally's.
 
Having dealt with a lot of Corolla and Tercel motors, I can tell you that Valve Guide Seals are often the culprit and your symptoms are definitely a match.

Replacing them is quite quick and easy - it's something you could tackle yourself if you have interest.

In the meantime, try out a straight 30 weight oil or a 15w40, as has been suggested. I've done this in the past on Corolla's that use a lot of oil and have found it to reduce consumption a reasonable amount.

Ultimately, you will have to get in and fix the issue, though - you are extremely unlikely to find an additive that will "cure" this.
 
Valve seals will typically cause smoke on the over-run. Perhaps have some one drive behind you to see if or when you smoke.
Valve seals would be a easy DIY fix.
 
My Metro used to burn a quart every 300 miles or so. I tried thicker oil, MMO, miracle-in-a-can, nothing even slowed it down. Eventually the compression got so low it would stall at red lights. I had it overhauled and fixed the rings and the burning went away. I don't think there is any solution to your problem that you can pour into the engine... but hey, worth a shot.
 
Could be my Saturn DIYer attitude coming through, but I figure it would be easier looking up which engines will work in your car (maybe some other years will work) and try to source a used engine.

It's easier to replace an engine than to rebuild one honestly. (probably also cheaper)
 
+1 to what tig1 said and do a MMO cyl soak. Your mileage might be great, because it's burning oil not gas! Also, why in the name of george are you still using 5w30? That engine needs serious help, though. Nothing in a bottle or can will fix that much consumption!
 
if nothing works i think a crate engine would be better than a 2500$ rebuild...my cavalier has 195k on it and doesnt burn a drop...some people go 20k or more betewen oil changes and have no problems and someone like has this, life isnt fair...my dad just added oil to his 1980 f 150 and he never had a problem
 
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