About a year ago I put new rotors on my Corolla. About 6 months ago they had warped so badly I had to have them turned. Now I noticed I'm starting to get the steering wheel wabble again. I'm just going to replace them, but I don't want another cheap pair from Advance Auto because they'll probably just do the same thing. What's a good brand to get and who sells them?
Brake rotors keep warping
- Thread starter grampi
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Unfortunately the rotors sold in most chains are garbage, at least from my experience. You'll have to pony up some extra cash and buy better rotors. Hawk pads and rotors come to mind as being better than anything you'll get at AZ or AAP. JMO
I too have had the same issue with cheap rotors. Bought a relatively expensive set with ceramic pads from the Tire Rack about 5 yrs ago. They warped too and since they were slotted rotors they could not be turned. Went back to the cheap disposables.
Is there a chance the wheels are being over torqued?
I have had very good luck with the Chinese rotors, never had one warp. Use them and throw away when you need new ones.
I had recently bought Chinese rotors from AAP. Mine had well over 100K miles on them and I thought it was time for new ones. Both new rotors were warped and had to be swapped. As it turns out in my situation I was better off with the 100K rotors than the NIB set that was warped. A lot has to do with luck I guess!
I'm loving the made in Canada rotors I bought from Napa that are on my Maxima. The regular white box Napa rotors on my Saturn are pulsing after only 20k kms or less, but the Canadian ones are still smooth as glass after over 10k kms already.
I use these:
http://www.frozenrotors.com/
I haven't had much luck with low cost jobber rotors as of late.
Just an FYI, turning the rotors and remaining within rotor thickness spec still weakens and compromises the ability of the rotor to take heat. I generally do not turn rotors anymore.
http://www.frozenrotors.com/
I haven't had much luck with low cost jobber rotors as of late.
Just an FYI, turning the rotors and remaining within rotor thickness spec still weakens and compromises the ability of the rotor to take heat. I generally do not turn rotors anymore.
Originally Posted By: willix
Is there a chance the wheels are being over torqued?
Highly doubtful. I'm the only person who tightens the lug nuts and I'd notice the warpage right after torquing the nuts if that were the case. I think they're warping simply because they're cheaply made rotors.
Funny thing is, the guy who turned them said that once a rotor warps, it doesn't usually warp any more. I guess these are made from such cheap materials they're just going to keep warping, so I might as well just replace them. Must be made in China like everything else is these days :0(
Is there a chance the wheels are being over torqued?
Highly doubtful. I'm the only person who tightens the lug nuts and I'd notice the warpage right after torquing the nuts if that were the case. I think they're warping simply because they're cheaply made rotors.
Funny thing is, the guy who turned them said that once a rotor warps, it doesn't usually warp any more. I guess these are made from such cheap materials they're just going to keep warping, so I might as well just replace them. Must be made in China like everything else is these days :0(
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Originally Posted By: grampi
Originally Posted By: willix
Is there a chance the wheels are being over torqued?
Highly doubtful. I'm the only person who tightens the lug nuts and I'd notice the warpage right after torquing the nuts if that were the case. I think they're warping simply because they're cheaply made rotors.
Funny thing is, the guy who turned them said that once a rotor warps, it doesn't usually warp any more. I guess these are made from such cheap materials they're just going to keep warping, so I might as well just replace them. Must be made in China like everything else is these days :0(
I was wondering about torque, too. They might be unevenly torqued. Have you checked with a torque wrench?
Originally Posted By: willix
Is there a chance the wheels are being over torqued?
Highly doubtful. I'm the only person who tightens the lug nuts and I'd notice the warpage right after torquing the nuts if that were the case. I think they're warping simply because they're cheaply made rotors.
Funny thing is, the guy who turned them said that once a rotor warps, it doesn't usually warp any more. I guess these are made from such cheap materials they're just going to keep warping, so I might as well just replace them. Must be made in China like everything else is these days :0(
I was wondering about torque, too. They might be unevenly torqued. Have you checked with a torque wrench?
Make sure you "bed in" the new pads by stopping from 30 to 5 mph about 10 or more times.
I too think Hawk HPS pads are the best.
There is a theory that rotors don't warp, the pads deposit uneven material on the rotors which make them pulsate. Supposedly you can repair with emery paper or a hard high speed stop.
I too think Hawk HPS pads are the best.
There is a theory that rotors don't warp, the pads deposit uneven material on the rotors which make them pulsate. Supposedly you can repair with emery paper or a hard high speed stop.
Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner
There is a theory that rotors don't warp, the pads deposit uneven material on the rotors which make them pulsate. Supposedly you can repair with emery paper or a hard high speed stop.
Beat me to it. Never assume a rotor is warped just because of wheel shake during braking. Too many times pad deposits are the problem. People assume a rotor is warped, machine it and remove the pad deposits, and that fixes it for awhile, till the pads/rotor get hot again and start the cycle over.
I fixed many a problem by cleaning the rotor surfaces with a Roloc on an angle grinder. I also learned (due to a bad arbor on the brake lathe) that cars can tolerate way more than max runout and still stop smoothly.
There is a theory that rotors don't warp, the pads deposit uneven material on the rotors which make them pulsate. Supposedly you can repair with emery paper or a hard high speed stop.
Beat me to it. Never assume a rotor is warped just because of wheel shake during braking. Too many times pad deposits are the problem. People assume a rotor is warped, machine it and remove the pad deposits, and that fixes it for awhile, till the pads/rotor get hot again and start the cycle over.
I fixed many a problem by cleaning the rotor surfaces with a Roloc on an angle grinder. I also learned (due to a bad arbor on the brake lathe) that cars can tolerate way more than max runout and still stop smoothly.
i have had no problems using the cheap autozone rotors with hawk, or performance friction pads. i use a torque wrench to tighten the lugs evenly and i bed in the pads. i'm thinking your problems might be coming from pad material welding itself to your rotors. Try high quality pads, i don't buy anything advertised as "ceramic"
Rotors warp(i've put a dial indicator on them before)and when turned they get even thinner warping even easier next time,i haven't found a good cheap set yet,just drive more sensible don't do 40 up to a stop sign or red light.
Originally Posted By: Corvette Owner
Make sure you "bed in" the new pads by stopping from 30 to 5 mph about 10 or more times.
I too think Hawk HPS pads are the best.
There is a theory that rotors don't warp, the pads deposit uneven material on the rotors which make them pulsate. Supposedly you can repair with emery paper or a hard high speed stop.
I'll put in another vote for this possibilty.
My wife is very easy on the brakes (light, long pressure way in advance of the actual stopping point) and does nothing but around town driving. Her CR-V develops a brake pulse that can be eliminated by doing a couple of aggressive highway speed stops.
-Brent
Make sure you "bed in" the new pads by stopping from 30 to 5 mph about 10 or more times.
I too think Hawk HPS pads are the best.
There is a theory that rotors don't warp, the pads deposit uneven material on the rotors which make them pulsate. Supposedly you can repair with emery paper or a hard high speed stop.
I'll put in another vote for this possibilty.
My wife is very easy on the brakes (light, long pressure way in advance of the actual stopping point) and does nothing but around town driving. Her CR-V develops a brake pulse that can be eliminated by doing a couple of aggressive highway speed stops.
-Brent
Originally Posted By: marc1
I use these:
http://www.frozenrotors.com/
I haven't had much luck with low cost jobber rotors as of late.
Just an FYI, turning the rotors and remaining within rotor thickness spec still weakens and compromises the ability of the rotor to take heat. I generally do not turn rotors anymore.
x2...
Frozen Rotors + Hawk pads=no more warping.
Good luck.
I use these:
http://www.frozenrotors.com/
I haven't had much luck with low cost jobber rotors as of late.
Just an FYI, turning the rotors and remaining within rotor thickness spec still weakens and compromises the ability of the rotor to take heat. I generally do not turn rotors anymore.
x2...
Frozen Rotors + Hawk pads=no more warping.
Good luck.
AnothEr vote on bEdding in the brakes. I actually bed mine from 65 to 10 mph with hard enough lock that I'm not triggering the abs. Drive for 20 mins after and avoid braking to let the rotors cool. When done correctly the rotors will have a blue or brown heat staining sheen due to the heat tempering
I think another reason for pedal pulsation issues is because of uneven pad deposits caused by calieprs that are not hanging up correctly.
Have you checked your calipers to see if they are hanging up correctly? I thought mines were, but after installing new caliper and all new hardware (clips, guide pins and guide pin boots), my brake pedal actually feels much more progressive. Only now do I realize that previously, my brake pads were dragging against the rotor.
Have you checked your calipers to see if they are hanging up correctly? I thought mines were, but after installing new caliper and all new hardware (clips, guide pins and guide pin boots), my brake pedal actually feels much more progressive. Only now do I realize that previously, my brake pads were dragging against the rotor.
here's a link that explains a lot.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
and another:http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
Note that most really have a pad problem that gets confused with a rotor problem. If you heat the brakes and then sit with your foot clamped down at a light while they cool you may experience this over and over.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
and another:http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml
Note that most really have a pad problem that gets confused with a rotor problem. If you heat the brakes and then sit with your foot clamped down at a light while they cool you may experience this over and over.
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