I remember people posted this before...
Why not spay WD-40 inside wheel lug nuts?
- Thread starter VK56VD
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Because if there is a liquid in the lugnut , as it is tightened down the liquid will compress and hold torque for a while, then it slowly leaks out and the nut will loosen up. I biuld deisel engines and one of the things they tell you while in training for any particular engine is to make all of the blind bolt holes ( head bolts) are blown out with compressed air before installing and torqing the bolts. I have actually seen blocks cracked from the hydraulic pressure when there is oil in a head bolt hole and the bolt is torqued. Just stick with neverseize.
The situation with head bolt holes are different than wheel studs.
WD-40 is Ok, antiseize (just a dab) is better IMHO.
Engine builders often oil the larger bolts when putting a motor together.
WD-40 is Ok, antiseize (just a dab) is better IMHO.
Engine builders often oil the larger bolts when putting a motor together.
Before I went to antisieze, I used motor oil with good results.
Before I started using anything I often had to jump on a 14'' breaker bar to loosen dry lug nuts. They would suddenly let go with a bong. I know I was pushing the point of twisting them off.
So antisieze, oil, WD-40, something.
Before I started using anything I often had to jump on a 14'' breaker bar to loosen dry lug nuts. They would suddenly let go with a bong. I know I was pushing the point of twisting them off.
So antisieze, oil, WD-40, something.
Most manufactures state NOT to use antiseze on lug nuts. Manufactures use a coating so that the stud/lug nut torque is a constant. If one used a lubricant then the tightening torque recommended is altered resulting in over-torquing which causes disk brake rotor distorting and possibly broken studs. I just wire brush off any crud from the studs and antiseze the wheel mounting surface where the wheel meets the mount.
Coating, smoting, I can tell when when I am pushing the limits of a stud. In the real world, the coatings don't work very long.
It's fine, I have always some multipurpose lubricant on the threads, I also put antiseize on the top of the rotor to prevent the rim from seizing and making removal easy. I always torque my lugnuts to 95 ft-lbs. A lot of people don't even bother using a torque wrench to put an even clamping load, probably the most important thing you can do. Ummm, my way lasts for legs of stage rallys, and I have never had a problem of loose lugnuts after 5k miles.
Keep in mind like somebody said it is a little, just a coating. I have also use antiseize on threads, works just as well
Keep in mind like somebody said it is a little, just a coating. I have also use antiseize on threads, works just as well
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Lug nuts are held by friction.
They are not like a connecting rod , crankshaft bolt, or cyl head bolt. Those are actually stretched when torqued properly.
Not so with wheel studs and lugs.
Mfrs. warn of lubing lug nuts. They don't want them overtightened or falling off.
But by far, lug problems are from being stuck or corroded tight.
By FAR. So I lube them.
Torquing them evenly is important, of course. With lube, back off on the recommended ft lbs 10-20%.
They are not like a connecting rod , crankshaft bolt, or cyl head bolt. Those are actually stretched when torqued properly.
Not so with wheel studs and lugs.
Mfrs. warn of lubing lug nuts. They don't want them overtightened or falling off.
But by far, lug problems are from being stuck or corroded tight.
By FAR. So I lube them.
Torquing them evenly is important, of course. With lube, back off on the recommended ft lbs 10-20%.
So true, I found on my then brand new car, after first winter in the rust capital
, that these coatings degrade very quickly.
I use lube on lug nuts and they never loosened up, but at the same time the never bind, so removal is much easier, there is no pull... pulll... pulll... snap anymore.
I use lube on lug nuts and they never loosened up, but at the same time the never bind, so removal is much easier, there is no pull... pulll... pulll... snap anymore.
I like the CAT antisieze and put it on every hub stud I encounter. I use it mainly for the hostile environments that are subjected to wheel fasteners. Most car wheels are fastened with a 1/2" fastener or in that neighborhood and most cars have aluminum wheels nowadays. The torque spec needs to be followed religiously and aluminum wheels need to be rechecked after heat cycling a a few times (50mi) most don't do this. The steel wheels don't expand & contract enough thermally to warrant this. Studs are coated but that coating is toast after the first install. The only thing WD40 will do is lube the stud and maybe remove moisture if present but it just dries up shortly after.
I really have to wonder about the difference between the engineers and the real world. I remember a GM employee at Detroit Engineering Society meeting saying we will get better windshield wipers when Ed Cole has to drive himself to work. Do none of these guys ever touch a wrench? How about feedback from the dealers or technicians in the company garages?
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Lug nuts are held by friction.
They are not like a connecting rod , crankshaft bolt, or cyl head bolt. Those are actually stretched when torqued properly.
Not so with wheel studs and lugs.
Mfrs. warn of lubing lug nuts. They don't want them overtightened or falling off.
That is not true, all threaded fasteners work by stretching. Lubing threads will not cause lug nuts to fall off. Torque does not keep lug nuts on. The purpose of the lube is to prevent galling of the threads during installation which if allowed to happen will greatly affect the torque required to properly fasten the lug nuts. I use white lithium spray to lubricate the studs.
Lug nuts are held by friction.
They are not like a connecting rod , crankshaft bolt, or cyl head bolt. Those are actually stretched when torqued properly.
Not so with wheel studs and lugs.
Mfrs. warn of lubing lug nuts. They don't want them overtightened or falling off.
That is not true, all threaded fasteners work by stretching. Lubing threads will not cause lug nuts to fall off. Torque does not keep lug nuts on. The purpose of the lube is to prevent galling of the threads during installation which if allowed to happen will greatly affect the torque required to properly fasten the lug nuts. I use white lithium spray to lubricate the studs.
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