2001 Tahoe 5.3 oil leak

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 17, 2009
Messages
135
Location
Southern California
So the Tahoe had a very small oil leak. I noticed this in late Dec. when I was doing an oil change. Oil filter was wet on the bottom, bottom of oil pan was wet, starter had oil on it, ect. Took it in and they said it was a rear main seal leak and rear cover leak. $553 to fix. I was hesitant to have the work done because I pulled the cover on the transmission and the flywheel was dry, meaning the rear main wasn't leaking. I was assured it was the rear main seal and rear cover so I had them do it.

I've driven ~2,000 miles since the rear main seal was replaced and rear cover was resealed. I looked under there today and guess what? Oil on the bottom of the filter, oil pan, etc. just like before.

They have a 12 month, 12,000 mile warranty. Guess the car is going back to the shop over spring break. Should they do addition repairs at a reduced price or possibly free since it wasn't the rear main seal and I paid them $553?

What could it be? Any ideas?

I can't go to the shop until I'm home from college over spring break. I'm thinking about buying dye and putting it in the oil before I drive 3 hours home and then having the shop look at it with a UV light. I was planning on calling them a week before I head home and explain the situation and see what they say.
 
i know its simple but make sure the filter is tight. On the newer vortecs they don't leave much room to grab the filter so when installing the lazy oil jobber will just do good enough. When loose these motors throw oil everywhere around the pan/filter/trans.
Tighten the filter and clean the area off real well with brake clean then check back in a day or so.
 
im thinking there might be a leak from the oil pan or the valve cover. my truck has a transmission pan leak and i though it was the rear main seal but it wasnt.
 
I have the same problem with my 08 Silverado I thought it was the rear main. I took it in to the dealer and the dealer is going to replace the oil pan. It figures cause I just filled it with Mobil 1 200miles ago.
 
I would suspect the pan - but your idea of adding the dye is excellent. something they should have done when you questioned it the first time.
 
Originally Posted By: tomcat27
I would suspect the pan - but your idea of adding the dye is excellent. something they should have done when you questioned it the first time.


They wanted to but they wanted me to bring the Tahoe back a week later. I couldn't do that because a week later I was back at school.
 
Originally Posted By: cool_breeze
i know its simple but make sure the filter is tight. On the newer vortecs they don't leave much room to grab the filter so when installing the lazy oil jobber will just do good enough. When loose these motors throw oil everywhere around the pan/filter/trans.
Tighten the filter and clean the area off real well with brake clean then check back in a day or so.


When I did the oil change back in Dec. and noticed the oil leak the filter was tight. It's supposed to rain tomorrow, but I'll check the filter to make sure it's tight by this weekend.
 
oil senders leak on those engines... When we rebuild those engines we usually replace them.. Rear seals are pretty good on those im betting it is either the valve covers or the sender if you have seepage from the oil pan you can tighten the bolts a quarter of a turn or so and that usually fixes the leak that is a good engine
 
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
oil senders leak on those engines... When we rebuild those engines we usually replace them.. Rear seals are pretty good on those im betting it is either the valve covers or the sender if you have seepage from the oil pan you can tighten the bolts a quarter of a turn or so and that usually fixes the leak that is a good engine


I heard it could be the crank position sensor or the cam position sender. Is that what you are referring to?
 
Originally Posted By: KeithKman
Should the shop cover most of the cost since I spent $553 for them to replace the rear main seal and that didn't fix the problem?


They should fix the leak completely. But I have $20 that says they will claim you sprung another leak.
 
Originally Posted By: PT1
Originally Posted By: KeithKman
Should the shop cover most of the cost since I spent $553 for them to replace the rear main seal and that didn't fix the problem?


They should fix the leak completely. But I have $20 that says they will claim you sprung another leak.


My dad's good friend owns a very well known alignment and brake shop. He refers all his customers to this shop if they need motor work done and vice versa. He referred me. I'm sure they will stand behind their work.

I hope so anyways.
 
Many of those year model 5.3L suffered from porosity problems in the rear snout erea of the crank. The rear seal will be wet just as if the seal is defective but it won't fix the leak. GM has thrown a "fix" at it that does not involve replacing the crank. Search and you will find the GM service bullitin.
 
Originally Posted By: Mokanic
Many of those year model 5.3L suffered from porosity problems in the rear snout erea of the crank. The rear seal will be wet just as if the seal is defective but it won't fix the leak. GM has thrown a "fix" at it that does not involve replacing the crank. Search and you will find the GM service bullitin.


Are you talking about the rear cover leaking? GM says to spread RTV on the cover and replace the gasket. The shop did that when they replaced the rear main seal back in late Dec. Didn't fix the problem.
 
Originally Posted By: caravanmike
why don't you try a maxlife product.


It started leaking about 600 miles after I started running M1 HM 10w-30. Go figure.
 
No, the crankshaft itself has porosity issues. It supposedly leaks on the crank where the pilot bushing would go if it were a strait drive. I think they designed a hammer-it-in plug to try to stop it from leaking. Don't know if it works but I got one customer's 5.3L that's puking it's guts out so we shall see.
 
Originally Posted By: Mokanic
No, the crankshaft itself has porosity issues. It supposedly leaks on the crank where the pilot bushing would go if it were a strait drive. I think they designed a hammer-it-in plug to try to stop it from leaking. Don't know if it works but I got one customer's 5.3L that's puking it's guts out so we shall see.


let me know what you find. My leak is super small.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top