Removing rusted bolts

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No, but sounds like a homemade penetrating oil if using syn ATF; compressor oil would be better. We tested these products in our shop and found CRC 5-56 to be the best, much better than WD40. Hammer taps help too. When all else fails, go for the Alabama Hot Wrench
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I've heard of it. There's a few home brew mixes that work OK. WD-40 isn't a great penetrating oil or lube. It works good as a water displacer and softening tar on the lower part of your car. That's all the uses I have for it but the name brand has gotten way to pricey for me. I like PB blaster myself! Are there better ones yes but, Not for the price. I can find PB locally for about $3.50 a can on sale.
 
I have heard of it and it seems to me that it works pretty decent. I think that there is easier more effective ways to go, but each to their own.
 
Kroil is probably the best for removing rusted bolts. Apply it, tap the bolt to set up vibration, and let it sit a while. Then go for it.
 
I get the impression that this is the rank of rust penetrant fluids:

1. Kroil
2. PB Blaster
3. Liquid Wrench

WD-40 isn't made for penetrant applications.

I was told long time ago that penetrant fluids contain acids that should be cleaned off once they do their job to prevent further corrosion. Any truth to this?
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
1. Kroil
2. PB Blaster
3. Liquid Wrench

I can't speak for the other two, but Kroil is used to clean guns, and then as a protectant to prevent against rust. Never had a problem with it, but I have now switched to MMO to wipe them down with after a cleaning with Kroil and solvents.
 
I think "Corrosion X" has to be in the rankings somewhere. I've never used Kroil, so I can't compare, but I've had good luck with Corrosion X and I've heard some swear that it is 10x better than PB Blaster as a penetrating oil.

Corrosion X is also used on guns to prevent rust, so I imagine it would not have to be cleaned off after use.

An interesting site showing CorrosionX:

http://www.corrosionxproducts.com/corrosionxpage.htm

Originally Posted By: Kestas
I get the impression that this is the rank of rust penetrant fluids:

1. Kroil
2. PB Blaster
3. Liquid Wrench

WD-40 isn't made for penetrant applications.

I was told long time ago that penetrant fluids contain acids that should be cleaned off once they do their job to prevent further corrosion. Any truth to this?
 
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sorry to revive such an old thread, but i'd like to put 100% Pure Wintergreen Oil ahead of PB & Liquid wrench. i've been using it for nearly 20 years and it always does the job. i've had discussions with others that use and love Kroil, but i've never had any to try. wintergreen's available at most pharmacies or at various places online if anyone would like to try it.
 
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I found an interesting post on another site.

http://forum.doityourself.com/automotive-service-repairs/413928-green-brake-fluid.html#post1679080

"Penetrating Oils Compared

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results!

*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.*

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None .................. 516 pounds
WD-40 ................ 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............ 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ....... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix ..... 53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.* "
 
Interesting test Kestas.

I would have rated kroil the best based on experience by proxy.

Read about it for years, but not seen it in action.

A contractor imports the stuff for personal use on turbine bolts that see up to 1000F, and 20 years service.

I was amazed at what came unstuck after the usual applications of cat's pee followed by oxy.

Will have to try some home brew.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I found an interesting post on another site.

http://forum.doityourself.com/automotive-service-repairs/413928-green-brake-fluid.html#post1679080

"Penetrating Oils Compared

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results!

*They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.*

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

None .................. 516 pounds
WD-40 ................ 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............ 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ....... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix ..... 53 pounds

*The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone*
*Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.* "


I want to know if those machinists tested a control group of at least 38 rusted bolts with no penetrant to make sure that they did not get semi-random results.

Good thought, regardless.

K
 
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