Anyone use Engine Release siezed engine lubricant?

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I did a search and haven't found a reference to this product -"Engine Release" - anyone use this product and what were the results?

I have a '69 Chrysler 383 that has sat for almost thirty years (supposedly in a garage). Engine hasn't responded (yet) to a combination of WD-40, PB blaster,MMO w/ a 3/4" and breaker bar. Engine oil analysis only showed water and lead above average- what I would expect for an engine last run in '79, i.e. condensation and leaded gas...
Thanks a bunch!
Scott
 
What your have used is good, I would not bother with trying the engine release. You may want to fill each cylinder with Diesel fuel and let it soak. If that does not work, you are going to have to go in. Nice thing the old moters are easy to work on...
 
Generly if PB blaster sprayed into the cylinders does not do it nothing else will. I am sure I do not need to tell you what 30 years of rust looks like when it is going from the blco throught rings right up to the groves inthe piston becasue the piston has carroded while the metal was rusting.

I have heard of the product on Horsper TV but they plug something new each week so who knows if it is any better then what you have already tried. What you probably need is a mild acid solution say 3-5% Sulferic Acid commonly sold as Muratic Acid at Hardware stores. You can mix it with oilsmall amount of light weight oil. Just do not go dumping straight acid in their it will eat the pistons and you just want to eat away some of the rust. You could also use Phsphoric acid which is used in Soda or Pop and also used by body shops to eat off rust and etch the surface. The acid will attack everything not just the rust. If you use a straight product like bulk phospheric acid as sold to body shops and fill each cylinder I wouldnot let it sit more then 15 minutes before trying to crank. Make sure you put a towel over the plug holes so acid does nto shoot every place and damge paint and such!Mind you all of this is last resort to tearing the engine apart and beating the pistons out with a wood block and hammer!
 
If the engine is stuck that bad, the cylinder walls are going to need to be reconditioned. Even if you got it running, it's not going to last or run well with rusty cylinders. Those motors are easy to work on and lots of fun to re-build
 
One thing to keep in mind: I have worked on old engines that have sat for years, and often its the valves that are stuck/rusted. If you do get it to turn over, be carefull of piston to valve contact as they bend very easy
 
Originally Posted By: ssenter
I did a search and haven't found a reference to this product -"Engine Release" - anyone use this product and what were the results?

I have a '69 Chrysler 383 that has sat for almost thirty years (supposedly in a garage). Engine hasn't responded (yet) to a combination of WD-40, PB blaster,MMO w/ a 3/4" and breaker bar. Engine oil analysis only showed water and lead above average- what I would expect for an engine last run in '79, i.e. condensation and leaded gas...
Thanks a bunch!
Scott
Penetrating oil will help go for it!!
 
Originally Posted By: ssenter
I did a search and haven't found a reference to this product -"Engine Release" - anyone use this product and what were the results?

I have a '69 Chrysler 383 that has sat for almost thirty years (supposedly in a garage). Engine hasn't responded (yet) to a combination of WD-40, PB blaster,MMO w/ a 3/4" and breaker bar. Engine oil analysis only showed water and lead above average- what I would expect for an engine last run in '79, i.e. condensation and leaded gas...
Thanks a bunch!
Scott


Welcome to Bitog! Someone already mentioned Kroil, a great product. Heat and Vibration are very helpful as well. Do a piston soak with Kroil, hopefully you have the engine on a engine stand. If so, see if you can put a heat lamp or portable electric heater under the engine. JUST BE CERTAIN IT CAN'T CATCH FIRE. Once the cylinders are filled with Kroil, take a rubber dead blow hammer and bang the side of the block near the spark plug holes. [At this point remove the heat source, you don't want Kroil dripping onto the heat source]. This will set up vibration and help the Kroil creep down. If the engine is rusted up solid it is going to have to be rebuilt, but this will certainly help get the pistons out.
 
If you can't get ahold of Kroil,

Diesel fuel will break rings free. My dad swears by it, just let it soak for awhile and it should roll over.

Or you can try the 50/50 mix of ATF/Acetone.
 
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