2008 FLHTCU, Amsoil MCV 20W50 3205 miles

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: moosestang
3200 miles? I run Valvoline 4 stroke in my buell for 2000-2500 miles. Seems like over kill if you are going to change it that often. Any synthetic is going to be comparable at that change interval. I dare say my conventional oil will hold up well to that UOA, but i've never had it tested.


I changed oil early because I was going on a trip and didn't want to change on the road.
 
Originally Posted By: hd2002
Pablo,

UOA's 1 and 8 were HD 360.


OK, so I'm looking at the #8. That's HD360 with 4755 miles on the sample?

Just have to excuse me here because the print is very small in that chart and I don't have my magnifying glass handy....
grin2.gif


If that's the case, is there a benefit to using a more expensive oil in this application? Or is the Genuine Harley oil already expensive?

Really, I'm just surprised to see that many miles on that particular sample and such good numbers.

Unless I'm mistaken.

In that case, never mind.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Well the three things that don't seem right with samples 1 and 8, is How the moly count in samples 1 and 8 have gone up from 0ppm to 11ppm. the Calcium count has almost doubled,1285-2240 ppm. and the zinc level has gone up,1047-1390ppm. I'm thinking the higher amounts in sample 8 is from being mixed with the Amsoil during his oil changes, or from topping off with Amsoil. I wouldn't jump to the conclusion that Harley's oil is as good as Amsoils, based on just these tests.,,
 
I wasn't thinking that it was good as Amsoil. I was thinking that it gave excellent results for the posted mileage. Harley is saying that the owners can go 5k OCIs with the HD360 and (looking at that chart) I was skeptical but I now believe it.

Or should I still be skeptical?
 
There isnt enough Amsoil left in the engine to make any real difference in the outcome of how the dreaded HD360 dino oil will performe.The UOA here proves that the over priced and over rated super duper synthetic oil dont pretect your engine any better than dino oil. All this hype on synthetic oil is nothing more than just hype and scare tactics to get people to blow extra money on total nonsense. How much proof does it take?
 
Originally Posted By: kballowe
Originally Posted By: hd2002
Pablo,

UOA's 1 and 8 were HD 360.


OK, so I'm looking at the #8. That's HD360 with 4755 miles on the sample?

Just have to excuse me here because the print is very small in that chart and I don't have my magnifying glass handy....
grin2.gif


If that's the case, is there a benefit to using a more expensive oil in this application? Or is the Genuine Harley oil already expensive?

Really, I'm just surprised to see that many miles on that particular sample and such good numbers.

Unless I'm mistaken.

In that case, never mind.

Thanks



I apologize for the small print. Not sure how to fix it.

I too was suprised with the numbers. I think some of the credit must go to having a good wearing engine. Sample 7 had some lenghty traffic time. Nitr/Oxid were up which I believe beat up TBN. Sample did have some lower wear numbers. Not enough to brag about but noted. If your compare the TBN between samples 2 and 8 where Nitr/Oxid is about the same. TBN is higher in sample 2.

HD 360 is about $6.00 a quart and Amsoil is about $8.00 a quart.
 
Originally Posted By: kballowe
Which Amsoil are you using?

If it's MCV and I can get it for 8 bucks - then I want a couple cases.


Yes it is MCV. Just checked website $8.25 a quart.
 
Originally Posted By: kballowe
Hmmmm - I see $10.70 a quart, plus shipping, and sales tax.


Do you have the prefered customer discount? It's $20.00 bucks a year. The $8.25 is without tax.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: kballowe
Well it won't let me see the shipping without getting an account. Do you know how much the shipping is?


1 case of oil, shipping and tax is $111.61.

If you don't have a PC try getting with one of the site sponsors and buy from them. I looked there are no warehouses in Missouri so you would have to ship.
 
It's probably cheaper to buy it from a local Amsoil dealer, unless you plan on switching most of your fleet over. I don't use much Amsoil products, so what I do get I buy from a local guy. He charges me the list price, but the nice thing is that there's no shipping cost, and no minimum order.
 
Well I was asking about price because I get the M1 V-Twin locally for $8.64 a quart (tax included).

We have several local Amsoil dealers and they're all over $10 + tax for the MCV.
 
I think that Amsoil MCV is a great product and this UOA shows it. The shearing is non existant. Interestingly I have to agree this could be an advertisement for HD360. It is obvious that 1 and 8 are HD due to the tell-tale boron and magnesium numbers from the additive package. It does shear but wear numbers look good. I haven't used 360 in many years due to the price increases. I used to buy the gallon jug for under $10.

Too bad about the bike problems. I've had three HDs and neither of the two I bought new ever went to the shop for anything. The one I bought used had a slight tranny drip/leak after it was 10 years old due to a scored bearing caused by a loose nut. That's the only repair I ever had to have fixed on an HD and it was "only" $250. Most of that was labor just to get to the bearing and put it all back together. It's over 15 years old now and running great.
 
I believe I had a lemon. Good news is Harley bought the bike back for what I paid for it in 08. I now own a 2010 Ultra Limited.
 
Glad they did you right in the end. More than one person has had problems with the fly by wire throttle. To add to the problem many mechanics at the shops don't know enough about it yet to troubleshoot and correct problems. They, like most of us, just know old fashion stick and rudder cables. Always a risk with something new like that.
 
Agreed on throttle by wire maturity and they should have been able to get it right at introduction. In their defense the tips of my handle bars is a much worse environment than the floor of my car. Not sure if the automotive inductry takes advantage of it but in a car you would not have to miniturize and you still have room for redundancy.
 
Originally Posted By: EagleFTE
Glad they did you right in the end. More than one person has had problems with the fly by wire throttle. To add to the problem many mechanics at the shops don't know enough about it yet to troubleshoot and correct problems. They, like most of us, just know old fashion stick and rudder cables. Always a risk with something new like that.


I do believe there are a lot of incompitent mechanics out there. That was probably most of the problem in the end.
I had one mechanic tell me the twist grip sensor error which put me in limp mode was because I shut bike off during heat management. He said to disable the parade mode and all would be well. I then explained to him how the heat management does not activate at 70 mph with cruise control on. He then tried to charge me to disable heat management, that didn't go too far.

Had another one tell me to unplug ECM to stop the starter from engaging when it wanted. That stop took 4 hours out of my vacation and still had to have it fixed when I got home. Talked with service manager when I got home and his statement was it worked fine when it left the shop. I have many other stories like this.

I was very happy to find out HD would buy my bike back. It gave me a little more confidence in Harley.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

I
UOA Castrol Euro (mix 0w30 & 0w40) in 2007 Subaru EJ25 after ~4770 miles
Replies
12
Views
2K
Impatient
J
07 Yukon w/183k miles, 6.2L, 8.5k OCI, Amsoil ASM 0w-20
Replies
9
Views
2K
FZ1
N
  • Locked
2016 FLTRU Amsoil MCV 20W50, 4810 miles
Replies
7
Views
4K
arkainzeye
G
  • Locked
2008 FLRHC Valvoline VR1 dino, 1.9k
Replies
18
Views
4K
DuckRyder
S
  • Locked
2013 Sportster Red Line 20w-50 5000 miles
Replies
2
Views
2K
Linctex
Back
Top