oil consumption normal on a 5.7 hemi?

[steve20]

I would remove the catch can--yes I do understand how they work, but try it first. And don't bring it into the dealer with the catch can in place, otherwise I think you'll be saying bye-bye to your warranty on the engine-they will document and look for any excuse in the future if you do have problems


Steve.

 

[mjf6866]

i may have over estimated the amount of oil being used in that amount of milage...i just filled it back up to "full" on the dipstick and it only took about a 1/4 of a quart, maybe a little less. not the half quart that i had originally thought.

 

[den]

I would say that is nothig too worry about with that lite of syn in that car

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Easy break in is not a myth.
Umpteen jillion cars have had an easy break in s with wonderful results.


And an easy break in just contributes to the issue mentioned.

We have a 3rd gen machinist in our family who builds mega bucks motors all the time, just set up a 630 cubic inch street motor. 20k for the crate motor and 15k more after that!

He says all the [censored] about easy break in is a myth based on old time manufacturing. Did anyone read the Chrysler manual? It says full throttle is beneficial. And there's tons more to back this up. This is really no different than the people who think a motor can't break in on synthetic.

It's like this... the rings are seated in seconds or minutes. The rotating assembly is either right or not. Why not break it under warranty?

More blow by in easily driven motors means more [censored] in your oil. At least you BITOG'rs ought to get that!

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Easy break in is not a myth.
Umpteen jillion cars have had an easy break in s with wonderful results.


And an easy break in just contributes to the issue mentioned.

We have a 3rd gen machinist in our family who builds mega bucks motors all the time, just set up a 630 cubic inch street motor. 20k for the crate motor and 15k more after that!

He says all the [censored] about easy break in is a myth based on old time manufacturing. Did anyone read the Chrysler manual? It says full throttle is beneficial. And there's tons more to back this up. This is really no different than the people who think a motor can't break in on synthetic.

It's like this... the rings are seated in seconds or minutes. The rotating assembly is either right or not. Why not break it under warranty?

More blow by in easily driven motors means more [censored] in your oil. At least you BITOG'rs ought to get that!



I agree whole heartedly with your post.

Some people do take break in too extremes and actually they are not doing themselves any favors( this is not directed at the OP of this thread ).

When I used to build motors for my muscle cars and hot rods( no mega $$$ monsters like your family member but I did ok for a DIY'er ) I would start it and let it idle for like 10 minutes before heading out for a ride. I would take it easy for the first say 50 miles just to let everything seat and wear in. It was also to make sure I had done my job right building the engine and hooking everything back up properly. If everything went ok for 50 miles I was good to go.

During that 50 miles I would drive around calmly, varying the speeds up to 60'ish, before I would start doing some short runs( not quite WOT - maybe 3/4 )after reaching that 50 miles. I never red lined during that 50 miles period, and really I didn't after that until I reached my break in mileage limit, but the RPM's got up there a few times after that 50 miles was reached. Like the Challenger manual talked about I would get into it for short bursts.

I wouldn't do l-o-n-g sustained WOT runs for the next say 300-400 miles give or take but I used the engine like it was going to be used. I think the break in procedure listed in the Challenger's manual is a good one. Very similar to how I did it. I never had any problems with failed engines nor oil consumption. I even broke them in on synthetic. Lord I am lucky they made it to the end of the street I guess.

Babying a performance engine for 1000 miles and then starting to beat on it can lead to what has happened to the OP. Use it like you plan to pretty much from the get go. You shouldn't take it from the engine stand to the drag strip if the engine will be in a vehicle driven regularly on the street but don't baby it too much either. Just use common sense and don't go nuts right off but you need to use it like you plan on using it after the break in.

 

[mjf6866]

guys, when i say babying it, i dont mean grandma'ing around for 1000 miles. i did short WOT bursts in 3rd or 4th gear like it said and got up to speed quite a bit. however i wasnt dropping the clutch and fishtailing all over or bouncing off the rev limiter like i do time to time now. i was told that the rest of the drivetrain (transmission, rear gears etc) needed to be broken in as well so i just eased into the power more instead of "going balls out" into it as i do from time to time!

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: mjf6866
guys, when i say babying it, i dont mean grandma'ing around for 1000 miles. i did short WOT bursts in 3rd or 4th gear like it said and got up to speed quite a bit. however i wasnt dropping the clutch and fishtailing all over or bouncing off the rev limiter like i do time to time now. i was told that the rest of the drivetrain (transmission, rear gears etc) needed to be broken in as well so i just eased into the power more instead of "going balls out" into it as i do from time to time!


My post was not directed at you specifically. Just using your situation as an example.

 

[JohnBrowning]

During intense use or abuse you can see an increase in oil consuption. It should not be permanant though. I have drive a few car's that had 13,000 miles done a 1/4 at a time that ran great. On the other hand I knew I guy in college that could kill a GM 60°V6 in one evening and it was driven not just put in neutral and reved till it poped either. Nothing stupid like shifting from D to L1 while going 120 either.....He could do it time and time again. On the other hand he met his match when he bought a an Electra 225 with a 455 Big Block he went to so far as to drive it with frozen anti-freeze water combo in it. In fact he could not kill that car it caught fire one night and the elctric fuel pump just kept on pumping more gas ontot he fire while he tried to put it out.

My point is some designs are easy to break and others are hard to break. Like wise some designs burn alot of oil and others burn none or only a little when abused...It is all down to knowing your specific gear and how it behaves under normal and extreme conditions. A collection of like owners's like on a Hemi wbsite would be able to tell you if this is normal or not..High speed driving will normal cause some oil consumptions and what happens when you drive at higher speeds? The rpm's are higher and with higher rpm's everything get's increased espeicaly heat from friction so if you now have 2-4 times more heat to get rid of how you gona do it??? Use more oil to cool the surface of the parts. What happens whenyou burn out???? Guessing you have an automatic you step on the go pedal and magically RPM's come up and your transmission shifts a bunch of times for you are rpms continue to climb......Now you say you where bouncing off the rev limiter well how often do you do that when driving at a high speed????I am going to guess never because most people are smart enough to take their foot off the pedal when that happens. So you where turning more RPM's standing stilll doing nothing but waste tire rubber. So it should not be a mystery why you used some oil.

I am more concerned about you not knowing enough to back pedal to stay off the rev limiter that is something I would expect from a 89lbs. blonde not from a man driving a pickup truck. ANyone can put a brick on the accelerator and make clouds of smoke I could do it with a 1.8L I4 in a 1982 Toyota Stalet Hatch Back which was rear wheel drive. It really does not say anything about your driving skills, the power under your hood or anything else for that matter. If the engine has more torque then it has traction the tires will spin only a tiny portion of the tire is in contact with the pavement and as it spins up less and less of it are touching....In in racing other then drifting spinning tires is a sign of lack of skill normally the idea is to get maximum power to the pavement not lose it to smoke and rubber chunks. Plus the marbles can be hard to get off the paint.

Unless Mopar has changed drastically their rev limiter's used to suck it was one of the weak spots on VIper's if you bounced the first generation vipers against their rev limiter it would often snap the timing chain.I know they fixed that problem on the viper's engine but do not know if they did the same on the new Hemi? Also if that spinning tire catch's all of sudden it will launch the vehicle a few inch's to a few feet unexpectedly or it can snap the axle. You also have the ever increasing cost of tires thanks to the import tarrif Obahma has put on cheap tires coming in from China a lot of big pick up truck tires are or where made in China.

Last but not least I take a draconian outlook on tire spinning and think it is one of the dumbest expressions of knuckle dragging one can do! It serves no purpose at all other then to accelerate the normal wear of one tire on your vechile maybe two if you have some form of posi. It is right up their with the kid that made his own bungee cord set up from hardware store bungee tie downs hooked together with Duct tape. Un fortunately the recent H.S. grad made some calculation errors and his cord was a few feet longer then the bridge was above the ground so he hit with a thud! that is about my take on burning out tires just so you know! The kid in the above story made the Darwin Awards back when that whole think first came out and I believe it happened in Alabamaha.

 

[mechtech2]

We can't argue with the untold/uncounted millions of cars that were broken in by simply driving them.
And they are broken in perfectly.
There is no way a cam likes high loading for break in [comes with high RPMs] - the opposite it true.
Only the rings/bore are to be considered, and they will break in just fine either way.
Just because a hard broken in engine seems OK proves nothing.

 

[SigShooter]

I had a 06 Chrysler 300C with the hemi. Bought the car with 24000 miles on it and traded it in with 46000 miles on it. I did all the oil changes myself and ran the car sorta hard and it did not use any oil. One of the best engines made in my opinion. Maybe yours is still breaking in.

 

[mjf6866]

Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
During intense use or abuse you can see an increase in oil consuption. It should not be permanant though. I have drive a few car's that had 13,000 miles done a 1/4 at a time that ran great. On the other hand I knew I guy in college that could kill a GM 60°V6 in one evening and it was driven not just put in neutral and reved till it poped either. Nothing stupid like shifting from D to L1 while going 120 either.....He could do it time and time again. On the other hand he met his match when he bought a an Electra 225 with a 455 Big Block he went to so far as to drive it with frozen anti-freeze water combo in it. In fact he could not kill that car it caught fire one night and the elctric fuel pump just kept on pumping more gas ontot he fire while he tried to put it out.

My point is some designs are easy to break and others are hard to break. Like wise some designs burn alot of oil and others burn none or only a little when abused...It is all down to knowing your specific gear and how it behaves under normal and extreme conditions. A collection of like owners's like on a Hemi wbsite would be able to tell you if this is normal or not..High speed driving will normal cause some oil consumptions and what happens when you drive at higher speeds? The rpm's are higher and with higher rpm's everything get's increased espeicaly heat from friction so if you now have 2-4 times more heat to get rid of how you gona do it??? Use more oil to cool the surface of the parts. What happens whenyou burn out???? Guessing you have an automatic you step on the go pedal and magically RPM's come up and your transmission shifts a bunch of times for you are rpms continue to climb......Now you say you where bouncing off the rev limiter well how often do you do that when driving at a high speed????I am going to guess never because most people are smart enough to take their foot off the pedal when that happens. So you where turning more RPM's standing stilll doing nothing but waste tire rubber. So it should not be a mystery why you used some oil.

I am more concerned about you not knowing enough to back pedal to stay off the rev limiter that is something I would expect from a 89lbs. blonde not from a man driving a pickup truck. ANyone can put a brick on the accelerator and make clouds of smoke I could do it with a 1.8L I4 in a 1982 Toyota Stalet Hatch Back which was rear wheel drive. It really does not say anything about your driving skills, the power under your hood or anything else for that matter. If the engine has more torque then it has traction the tires will spin only a tiny portion of the tire is in contact with the pavement and as it spins up less and less of it are touching....In in racing other then drifting spinning tires is a sign of lack of skill normally the idea is to get maximum power to the pavement not lose it to smoke and rubber chunks. Plus the marbles can be hard to get off the paint.

Unless Mopar has changed drastically their rev limiter's used to suck it was one of the weak spots on VIper's if you bounced the first generation vipers against their rev limiter it would often snap the timing chain.I know they fixed that problem on the viper's engine but do not know if they did the same on the new Hemi? Also if that spinning tire catch's all of sudden it will launch the vehicle a few inch's to a few feet unexpectedly or it can snap the axle. You also have the ever increasing cost of tires thanks to the import tarrif Obahma has put on cheap tires coming in from China a lot of big pick up truck tires are or where made in China.

Last but not least I take a draconian outlook on tire spinning and think it is one of the dumbest expressions of knuckle dragging one can do! It serves no purpose at all other then to accelerate the normal wear of one tire on your vechile maybe two if you have some form of posi. It is right up their with the kid that made his own bungee cord set up from hardware store bungee tie downs hooked together with Duct tape. Un fortunately the recent H.S. grad made some calculation errors and his cord was a few feet longer then the bridge was above the ground so he hit with a thud! that is about my take on burning out tires just so you know! The kid in the above story made the Darwin Awards back when that whole think first came out and I believe it happened in Alabamaha.


thanks for replying. i like to have fun in my car. i dont street race, i do this stuff on back country roads so there's no harm. dont get the idea that i'm some spoiled kid in a hot rod that just beats the living [censored] out an automobile because i can. i look at this car as an investment, a fun one at that! thats why i'm concerned.

 

[OilGuy2]

I vote with the 75-80% maximum power break-in, with some respect for first gear and laying off the rev limiter. The engine should be accelerated moderately hard and then decelerated moderately hard immediately after. You cannot do this in traffic and need the privacy of a remote road. You may need to do it 50 times.

Manufacturing precision is widespread today. The old "break it in easy" is out the window. Assembly line cars are leaving factories with thin synthetic oil in the sump. The degree of compression seal is amazing in modern engines.

Seriously, I don't think your hemi is fully broken in yet. I expect it will take 15,000 miles of moderately hard (but not REAL hard) driving with a lot of rpm variation to loosen it up and get the compression seal that is possible.

If I was a line worker making Hemi's, I'd been proud of what I was working on and make every attempt to produce perfect engines...so perfect that, like a BMW, they take some time to break in. Hard metal with exacting specs = long break in for a perfect motor.

No way is a Hemi broken in at 8000-10000 miles. Its just too hard and too tough with an output that absolutely mandates perfection.

The manual makes it sound short because that is what car buyers want to hear, but a mechanical engineer will tell you that, even with controlled hard driving, it takes a lot longer than a 1,000 miles.

Don't baby it, but don't beat on it either. Accelerate, decelerate, breath in, breath out. When you are done with 50 cycles, do change the oil and filter when hot to remove all the metal particles.

Nice ride, by the way. Amen.