Hey guys i've done a lot of reading on here but i must admit it's a bit overwhelming lol. (i dont know if thats a bad thing though) Anyway, my dad recently handed over his truck to me, its a 1999 dodge dakota 5.2 V8. He bought the truck at 12,000 miles, and had regular dealer changes every 3000. I think it was some free oil deal so im guessing it was bulk they used. Around 90,000 i started doing the changes myself, started with PYB and then used various synthetics. Now it has 106,500 and im trying to settle into using one kind of oil. Price isn't a big factor, i basically just want the best protection i can get for this motor. I'll probably drive it until the wheels fall off lol.
Dodge 5.2 and oil.
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Originally Posted By: dakota99
Hey guys i've done a lot of reading on here but i must admit it's a bit overwhelming lol. (i dont know if thats a bad thing though) Anyway, my dad recently handed over his truck to me, its a 1999 dodge dakota 5.2 V8. He bought the truck at 12,000 miles, and had regular dealer changes every 3000. I think it was some free oil deal so im guessing it was bulk they used. Around 90,000 i started doing the changes myself, started with PYB and then used various synthetics. Now it has 106,500 and im trying to settle into using one kind of oil. Price isn't a big factor, i basically just want the best protection i can get for this motor. I'll probably drive it until the wheels fall off lol.
Mobil-1 10w30 HM is the best choice for that motor if you plan to use a full-synthetic. Is this going to be your daily driver? And in Indianny I might run the 5w30 Mobil-1 HM in the winter time...depends on how cold it gets. I ran the 10w30 Mobil-1 & Mobil-1 HM in my magnum V8 with good results for well over 100k while I owned the vehicle. I recently am switching to another oil because it is retired and I will be changing the oil once per year and not even doing 3k on it...but FYI MANY magnum V8 owners agree with me that if you want to run a synthetic oil in that motor, the M1-HM seems to be the best...it has a great additive pkg and the full-syn should work nicely with that sub-standard oil sump...ALSO, change the PCV at least once per year on that truck...maybe every 6 months even. This motors are sludge-prone so full-syn and fresh PCV are a nice combo.
Hey guys i've done a lot of reading on here but i must admit it's a bit overwhelming lol. (i dont know if thats a bad thing though) Anyway, my dad recently handed over his truck to me, its a 1999 dodge dakota 5.2 V8. He bought the truck at 12,000 miles, and had regular dealer changes every 3000. I think it was some free oil deal so im guessing it was bulk they used. Around 90,000 i started doing the changes myself, started with PYB and then used various synthetics. Now it has 106,500 and im trying to settle into using one kind of oil. Price isn't a big factor, i basically just want the best protection i can get for this motor. I'll probably drive it until the wheels fall off lol.
Mobil-1 10w30 HM is the best choice for that motor if you plan to use a full-synthetic. Is this going to be your daily driver? And in Indianny I might run the 5w30 Mobil-1 HM in the winter time...depends on how cold it gets. I ran the 10w30 Mobil-1 & Mobil-1 HM in my magnum V8 with good results for well over 100k while I owned the vehicle. I recently am switching to another oil because it is retired and I will be changing the oil once per year and not even doing 3k on it...but FYI MANY magnum V8 owners agree with me that if you want to run a synthetic oil in that motor, the M1-HM seems to be the best...it has a great additive pkg and the full-syn should work nicely with that sub-standard oil sump...ALSO, change the PCV at least once per year on that truck...maybe every 6 months even. This motors are sludge-prone so full-syn and fresh PCV are a nice combo.
You will probally get a wide variety of opinions on this one. Everyone has their favorite oil. Personally I would say any name brand full syn. (Castrol, Penn. Plat., Mobil 1, Valvoline etc,) that you can get regulary and at a fair price (Walmart), changed regulary, with a high quality filter. I use whatever name brand full syn. is on sale or has the best rebate. Last three changes have been Quaker state, and Penn plat. I'm off to Advance to get the cheap Castrol Edge, 5 quart oil change deal. Tom
Originally Posted By: daddi
I would say any name brand full syn. (Castrol, Penn. Plat., Mobil 1, Valvoline etc,) that you can get regulary and at a fair price (Walmart), changed regulary, with a high quality filter.
X2
I would also add another option/consideration would be a high mileage synthetic like Valvoline Maxlife as well.
I would say any name brand full syn. (Castrol, Penn. Plat., Mobil 1, Valvoline etc,) that you can get regulary and at a fair price (Walmart), changed regulary, with a high quality filter.
X2
I would also add another option/consideration would be a high mileage synthetic like Valvoline Maxlife as well.
First things first make absolutely shure that the belly pan gasket is not leaking or plan on elimanating it or installing a new one......They are highly prone to failure and will degrade any oil you put in their fast andmake the engine prone to sludging. Second alway make sure the drive gear on these engines is in good shape because if they fail the oil pump doesnot get driven likeit should and low oil pressure results. Aside from that and all well known gasket issues this engine has it is a durable base design. The main reason for the Heming was to decrease production cost's while also elimanating all the gasket issues this Magnum and LA engines had for years!
Awesome thanks for the info guys. I've used M1 10w-30 HM for the last 2 changes, guess i'll stay with that! The only reason i was on edge was because of the "high iron" that's been reported. I'll admit i don't know that much about the situation and it had me concerned.. but i don't think they would sell something that was harmful.
About the PCV, i put a new one in last spring, i read on another dodge site to watch those as well. As for the belly pan, i'll be pulling the tb off sometime soon and i'll check for oil down there.
About the PCV, i put a new one in last spring, i read on another dodge site to watch those as well. As for the belly pan, i'll be pulling the tb off sometime soon and i'll check for oil down there.
Mine was leaking (externally) pretty bad when I got it (a '97 5.2L with 168,000 miles at the time of purchase). The truck "only had Mobil 1 it's whole life". Who knows.
Anyway, it did leak pretty bad. Multiple runs of Valvoline MaxLife has slowed the leak down to a point where it's not really there anymore. With this type of engine, I'd use either the MaxLife or other high mileage type oil (I've got 5W-30 high mileage in mine right now), or something like Shell Rotella 10W-30. I've used both. The engine ran real nice and quiet on the 10W-30 Rotella.
I personally won't extend the oil changes on this to past 3,000 miles, so I don't really see the value added in a synthetic oil. The MaxLife, Pennzoil High Mileage, Shell Rotella, are proven products available at half the price. And if you're going to change them out at the same interval anyway...
When you do the belly pan gasket, replace the actual belly PAN also. That's the weak link: that sheetmetal pan. You can get aftermarket kits made of aluminum for about 100 bucks; it'll never leak again. Another tip: the PCV valve cover grommet is only available from the dealer. The PCV valve in mine was so stuck in that old rotted grommet that the valve broke. I had to take the valve cover off and CHIP/GRIND that old grommet out. The new one doesn't feel very pliable either. Nobody had the grommet but the dealer.
Anyway, it did leak pretty bad. Multiple runs of Valvoline MaxLife has slowed the leak down to a point where it's not really there anymore. With this type of engine, I'd use either the MaxLife or other high mileage type oil (I've got 5W-30 high mileage in mine right now), or something like Shell Rotella 10W-30. I've used both. The engine ran real nice and quiet on the 10W-30 Rotella.
I personally won't extend the oil changes on this to past 3,000 miles, so I don't really see the value added in a synthetic oil. The MaxLife, Pennzoil High Mileage, Shell Rotella, are proven products available at half the price. And if you're going to change them out at the same interval anyway...
When you do the belly pan gasket, replace the actual belly PAN also. That's the weak link: that sheetmetal pan. You can get aftermarket kits made of aluminum for about 100 bucks; it'll never leak again. Another tip: the PCV valve cover grommet is only available from the dealer. The PCV valve in mine was so stuck in that old rotted grommet that the valve broke. I had to take the valve cover off and CHIP/GRIND that old grommet out. The new one doesn't feel very pliable either. Nobody had the grommet but the dealer.
Originally Posted By: dakota99
Awesome thanks for the info guys. I've used M1 10w-30 HM for the last 2 changes, guess i'll stay with that! The only reason i was on edge was because of the "high iron" that's been reported. I'll admit i don't know that much about the situation and it had me concerned.. but i don't think they would sell something that was harmful.
About the PCV, i put a new one in last spring, i read on another dodge site to watch those as well. As for the belly pan, i'll be pulling the tb off sometime soon and i'll check for oil down there.
Well let me tell you...I am a "former" Mobil-1 HM user...it is great oil and my Magnum V8 has lots of miles on it (maybe 120) using Mobil-1. I am switching because I am in a mode where I like dino & blends the best and also as mentioned above it will not be driven much...Other resons for switching were that I have a few leaks and the full-syn tends to leak worse than dino oil for existing leaks. Also, I don't want to waste the oil...since I am gonna do 3k, then I am at least trying other oils. But rest assured I would most likely use Mobil-1 HM in a magnum V8 if it was a daily driver and I would not rule out switching back to it.
I never got anything on the "high-iron" wear thing, but no worries cause your truck is a roller motor and the M1-HM has again been a good oil based on my experience and a few internet readings I have read from other owners of these motors. For the Walmart 5QT jug's price you can't beat it...
If you did not want to run a full-syn, then Maxlife would be a good choice, but I am not a Valvoline man...If you are curious, I am going to run Mystik 10w30 Super Heavy Duty on my next fill...Right now after switching off the Mobil-1 HM, I went to Pennzoil HM 10w30 for now. I am experimenting.
ALSOOO I have had my plenum gasket replaced at sdealer years ago...how would I know if it was bad again? I do not ahve any pingging?
Awesome thanks for the info guys. I've used M1 10w-30 HM for the last 2 changes, guess i'll stay with that! The only reason i was on edge was because of the "high iron" that's been reported. I'll admit i don't know that much about the situation and it had me concerned.. but i don't think they would sell something that was harmful.
About the PCV, i put a new one in last spring, i read on another dodge site to watch those as well. As for the belly pan, i'll be pulling the tb off sometime soon and i'll check for oil down there.
Well let me tell you...I am a "former" Mobil-1 HM user...it is great oil and my Magnum V8 has lots of miles on it (maybe 120) using Mobil-1. I am switching because I am in a mode where I like dino & blends the best and also as mentioned above it will not be driven much...Other resons for switching were that I have a few leaks and the full-syn tends to leak worse than dino oil for existing leaks. Also, I don't want to waste the oil...since I am gonna do 3k, then I am at least trying other oils. But rest assured I would most likely use Mobil-1 HM in a magnum V8 if it was a daily driver and I would not rule out switching back to it.
I never got anything on the "high-iron" wear thing, but no worries cause your truck is a roller motor and the M1-HM has again been a good oil based on my experience and a few internet readings I have read from other owners of these motors. For the Walmart 5QT jug's price you can't beat it...
If you did not want to run a full-syn, then Maxlife would be a good choice, but I am not a Valvoline man...If you are curious, I am going to run Mystik 10w30 Super Heavy Duty on my next fill...Right now after switching off the Mobil-1 HM, I went to Pennzoil HM 10w30 for now. I am experimenting.
ALSOOO I have had my plenum gasket replaced at sdealer years ago...how would I know if it was bad again? I do not ahve any pingging?
I am wondering too how I would know about this belly pan leak.
you will get alot of excessive blowby and the engine will run like it has a vaccum leak, low idle that is rather rough and what not, probably no check engine light or anything. but those are the usuall symptoms
Originally Posted By: Petrou
you will get alot of excessive blowby and the engine will run like it has a vaccum leak, low idle that is rather rough and what not, probably no check engine light or anything. but those are the usuall symptoms
will it idle like that all the time, or just sometimes? Mine has an intermitant rough idle that corrects itself after the engine warms up...it doesn't happen very often but it has been years with no solution...I have 180k and the plenum/intake gaskets were replaced once at 117k...?
you will get alot of excessive blowby and the engine will run like it has a vaccum leak, low idle that is rather rough and what not, probably no check engine light or anything. but those are the usuall symptoms
will it idle like that all the time, or just sometimes? Mine has an intermitant rough idle that corrects itself after the engine warms up...it doesn't happen very often but it has been years with no solution...I have 180k and the plenum/intake gaskets were replaced once at 117k...?
The intake floor on mine has some residue on it, but oil isn't puddled. It idles perfect and runs good. There is some heavy throttle spark knock. My engine does not have EGR, so I can rule that out as the cause of the spark knock. Spark knock is a common symptom of the bad plenum gasket, but mine doesn't use any oil (that's also a symptom) and it otherwise runs fine, so it may be another issue (like carbon maybe). I've never Seafoamed this engine or anything since I've got it. Just kept the oil changed.
FastSUV, you said before in another thread that you thought you liked the Pennzoil HM better than the Valvoline ML? I've run a lot of SOPUS stuff, including PYB and PP, but I've never ran that PHM, for whatever reason. Can you explain some more why you like it better than the VML? I've always had good service from the VML in this truck, but that's not to say that the PHM couldn't be an improvement.
FastSUV, you said before in another thread that you thought you liked the Pennzoil HM better than the Valvoline ML? I've run a lot of SOPUS stuff, including PYB and PP, but I've never ran that PHM, for whatever reason. Can you explain some more why you like it better than the VML? I've always had good service from the VML in this truck, but that's not to say that the PHM couldn't be an improvement.
Originally Posted By: Jason Adcock
The intake floor on mine has some residue on it, but oil isn't puddled. It idles perfect and runs good. There is some heavy throttle spark knock. My engine does not have EGR, so I can rule that out as the cause of the spark knock. Spark knock is a common symptom of the bad plenum gasket, but mine doesn't use any oil (that's also a symptom) and it otherwise runs fine, so it may be another issue (like carbon maybe). I've never Seafoamed this engine or anything since I've got it. Just kept the oil changed.
FastSUV, you said before in another thread that you thought you liked the Pennzoil HM better than the Valvoline ML? I've run a lot of SOPUS stuff, including PYB and PP, but I've never ran that PHM, for whatever reason. Can you explain some more why you like it better than the VML? I've always had good service from the VML in this truck, but that's not to say that the PHM couldn't be an improvement.
Max-life made the engine more sluggish and MPG went down slightly. I believe the Pennzoil HM to have less moly than Max-life. This was on my flat-tappey 4.0L and it ran quieter than with Maxlife...I know Maxlife would serve it well, but my perception was the Jeep ran better on the Pennzoil HM because I did a fill of it, then the very next fill was Maxlife so I compared them in back-2-back OCI's. I liked it so much I filled my magnum V8 with Pennzoil HM to try it over M1-HM...since the M1 tends to leak more, I figured I'd give it a try since it served my other Jeep well.
The intake floor on mine has some residue on it, but oil isn't puddled. It idles perfect and runs good. There is some heavy throttle spark knock. My engine does not have EGR, so I can rule that out as the cause of the spark knock. Spark knock is a common symptom of the bad plenum gasket, but mine doesn't use any oil (that's also a symptom) and it otherwise runs fine, so it may be another issue (like carbon maybe). I've never Seafoamed this engine or anything since I've got it. Just kept the oil changed.
FastSUV, you said before in another thread that you thought you liked the Pennzoil HM better than the Valvoline ML? I've run a lot of SOPUS stuff, including PYB and PP, but I've never ran that PHM, for whatever reason. Can you explain some more why you like it better than the VML? I've always had good service from the VML in this truck, but that's not to say that the PHM couldn't be an improvement.
Max-life made the engine more sluggish and MPG went down slightly. I believe the Pennzoil HM to have less moly than Max-life. This was on my flat-tappey 4.0L and it ran quieter than with Maxlife...I know Maxlife would serve it well, but my perception was the Jeep ran better on the Pennzoil HM because I did a fill of it, then the very next fill was Maxlife so I compared them in back-2-back OCI's. I liked it so much I filled my magnum V8 with Pennzoil HM to try it over M1-HM...since the M1 tends to leak more, I figured I'd give it a try since it served my other Jeep well.
I drove a 89 Dakota with the 3.9 (a shortened 5.2?) for almost 400,000 miles and have a 99 Ram 1500 with the 5.2 with 185,000 and have used Valvoline 10-30 in both with a no label filter supplied by a parts house. I did my changes while working at 5-7000 miles.
Never have had a internal engine problem or premature wear. The Dakota would pass Calif. Smog with good numbers until the day it went to the scrap heap. The Ram just passed smog with equally good numbers. Any good oil with a good filter and changed regularly and you will be fine. One recommendation, for longer transmission life use a deeper pan, cooler and remote filter. Change the trans fluid on a regular basis. The trans on my Ram has not had a problem.
Never have had a internal engine problem or premature wear. The Dakota would pass Calif. Smog with good numbers until the day it went to the scrap heap. The Ram just passed smog with equally good numbers. Any good oil with a good filter and changed regularly and you will be fine. One recommendation, for longer transmission life use a deeper pan, cooler and remote filter. Change the trans fluid on a regular basis. The trans on my Ram has not had a problem.
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