Whole can of seafoam through the brake booster...

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 7, 2005
Messages
79
Location
Greenville, SC
and the tops of the pistons still look like my BBQ grill. I poured the whole can slowly down the intake while the car was idling at running temp. It took 6 miles for the car to quit smoking with me driving it like I stole it. It poured smoke so bad that on-coming traffic was hitting the brakes :).

I also ran a whole can of Seafoam through the tank too. Now I have some Lucas UCL in it. Plugs are still clean, etc.

What to do now? This is on a 248k mile Geo Prizm (toyota 4afe motor, etc). Something tells me there is nothing more to do at all, but I'd like to smooth up the idle that a full tune-up didn't take care of. Other than that, the car runs terrific!!
 
you did it right. I usually use half the can, and pour the other half into the crankcase.
I usually do mine late at night when everybody's asleep so I can create "fog".
you have a 248k motor, toyota motor or not, you can't expect perfection with that many miles, probably another 100k at the very worst.
clean the back of the throttle body valve plate, and check/adjust the timing.
 
Squirt some straight seafoam in the spark plug holes and let it sit overnight. Drive it till its hot and then do the water decarb. With that many miles if its still dirty but saving at the pump who cares it's more than done it's job.
 
Maybe try some Amsoil PowerFoam?
21.gif
 
Well, you can look up my Seafoam thread, in the maintenance forum. Lots of fun drama with that. (Net net, seafoamed a clean engine, and set off a check engine light, which went away after a while).

I'm guessing, but I think its important for the Seafoam to have some time to soak into the deposits thus softening them up. During the induction phase you want to be running the engine just at the threshold of being killed.

IMHO you should run two tanks of techron + 93 octane gas, and then see how it looks.
 
Originally Posted By: JasonK94Z
and the tops of the pistons still look like my BBQ grill. I poured the whole can slowly down the intake while the car was idling at running temp. It took 6 miles for the car to quit smoking with me driving it like I stole it. It poured smoke so bad that on-coming traffic was hitting the brakes :).

I also ran a whole can of Seafoam through the tank too. Now I have some Lucas UCL in it. Plugs are still clean, etc.

What to do now? This is on a 248k mile Geo Prizm (toyota 4afe motor, etc). Something tells me there is nothing more to do at all, but I'd like to smooth up the idle that a full tune-up didn't take care of. Other than that, the car runs terrific!!


1 - this is a 248K vehicle. Unless you have used Seafoam as a maintenance dose every 10K or so to keep the carbon build up down don't expect it, or any product, to return the piston domes to like new condition. They are going to stay dark and carbon'd up to some degree. If nothing has ever been used prior to clean the combustion chamber I doubt you will be able to really clean it out unless you use something like GM's top end cleaner that sits overnight. You will need something stronger than a brief Seafoam treatment to clean the domes to what you seem to want.

2 - unless you just did not mention it you did not perform the procedure correctly. You bring the vehicle to operating temp, then pour 1/3-1/2 can MAX in, then shut the engine off and let it sit for 5-10 minutes( 10 minutes is better in your application ), then restart and run to clear out smoke. You can repeat it a few times over say a week to better clean. You should do this every 10K/once a year or so to keep up with it.

It is not a goood idea to use a whole can through the vacuum source. You risk hydrolocking the engine. Stick to 1/3-1/2 can MAX per the mfg's instructions. Also, it is extremely important to let the vehicle sit, shut off, immediately after you stop pouring it in. Shut it right off. The majority of the cleaning process takes place at that time. The Seafoam sort of steam cleans the combustion chamber.

It is also very important that you do not rev the engine a lot during the pouring process and do not rev it at all before shutting it off. That will burn off the Seafoam and it will do no good. Pour at a rate that keeps the engine from stalling. If you must give it gas to keep it running( have seen this happen )do just enough. I see guys do this who rev the snot out of the vehicle while they are pouring and all it does is burn the product off before it has a chance to do anything.
 
Last edited:
I poured it in very slowly at operating temp. The vehicle was about to die. I used a whole can, again pouring very slowly, because i knew that the pistons looked like crud (i saw them while changing plugs). I then shut the engine off, and let it soak for about 15 minutes. At that time i got it started back up and went out on a drive. light drive at first until it started running decent, then I drove it kinda hard to blow it out. The clean out to the point that it quit smoking took around 6 miles.
I did it right with the excemption of using the entire can through the intake. Done it on other vehicles in the past with just a half can and the other half in the tank.
 
Last edited:
Depending on the location of the booster port, you may not have got product going into all cylinders equally.
 
Originally Posted By: jhenle
Depending on the location of the booster port, you may not have got product going into all cylinders equally.


This may be the case. If the crud is that bad I would do a piston soak using MMO, Seafoam or GM top end cleaner, this will ensure all pistons are fed equally, change the oil afterwards and you should be good to go.
 
At least on my PT cruiser, the best line to use for induction is the PCV vacuum line, which comes in right behind the throttle vs the brake booster line.

This makes sense since the PCV vacuum line will be supplying oily vapors which the car maker wants to be evenly distributed across all cylinders vs being shunted into just one. For supplying brake vacuum, any source within the intake manifold will do.

-----
Hydrolocking the engine is a function of the rate at which you induce seafoam, not how much you use. Personally, I would use a spray can of Deep Creep.

If it's not too hard to do, you could remove the spark plugs, and spray deep creep (using the little straw), all over the place in the combustion chamber of each cylinder and then let it sit for a while. This way you would be assured that the carbon deposits were saturated and softened.
 
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI

Unless you have used Seafoam as a maintenance dose every 10K or so to keep the carbon build up down don't expect it, or any product, to return the piston domes to like new condition.

Seafoam won't do it because you can't afford enough to get much done. The PEA based cleaners will remove all carbon with enough application time and the fuel savings easily offsets the product cost. An engine in bad shape may collect new carbon as fast as the PEA removes it so improvement is too slow. Other additives tip the scales in your favor. The more advanced the cocktail the faster it works. I can turn engines that roar into engines that purr in a single summer.

Once clean the engine takes the same amount of time to dirty up as it did when it was new.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: severach
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI

Unless you have used Seafoam as a maintenance dose every 10K or so to keep the carbon build up down don't expect it, or any product, to return the piston domes to like new condition.

Seafoam won't do it because you can't afford enough to get much done. The PEA based cleaners will remove all carbon with enough application time and the fuel savings easily offsets the product cost. An engine in bad shape may collect new carbon as fast as the PEA removes it so improvement is too slow. Other additives tip the scales in your favor. The more advanced the cocktail the faster it works. I can turn engines that roar into engines that purr in a single summer.

Once clean the engine takes the same amount of time to dirty up as it did when it was new.


Sorry makes no sense to me? Not sure of your point? I have used Seafoam for ever on a 10K maintenance schedule and the combustion chambers are always kept good and clean? NO combustiion chamber is going to stay new and shiney forever but if you do it every 10K or so it keeps the build up down.
 
Originally Posted By: jhenle
Depending on the location of the booster port, you may not have got product going into all cylinders equally.


Yup, didn't think of that myself. I have had a couple vehicles where the BB line only did the back half and I had to repeat the process using the PCV to get the front half.

Good point!
34.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top