I just changed my changed my knock sensors and used seafoam. Engine is ** help
Seafoam is also popular with boaters where it is very effective.
Seafoam is also popular with boaters where it is very effective.
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Oh boy, I was stupid. (Seafoam related)
- Thread starter ionbeam22
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absolutely unnecessary for almost any modern engine.
Causes more problems than it cures for a novice... proven here.
Wastes money, causes outrageous pollution, I'll stop now.
Causes more problems than it cures for a novice... proven here.
Wastes money, causes outrageous pollution, I'll stop now.
At the bottom the guy suggests the el-cheapo (hah!) windshield washer fluid instead of plain water since the WW fluid is alcohol-based. Any credence to that?
Originally Posted By: sciphi
At the bottom the guy suggests the el-cheapo (hah!) windshield washer fluid instead of plain water since the WW fluid is alcohol-based. Any credence to that?
There are setups intended for forced induction applications (turbo, supercharger) that spray windshield washer fluid into the intake for extra cooling.
At the bottom the guy suggests the el-cheapo (hah!) windshield washer fluid instead of plain water since the WW fluid is alcohol-based. Any credence to that?
There are setups intended for forced induction applications (turbo, supercharger) that spray windshield washer fluid into the intake for extra cooling.
Hmm, so a 1/8" hose dipped into a bottle of blue WW fluid could work as a top-end cleaner...
Nah, I'll stick with Regane or Techron.
Nah, I'll stick with Regane or Techron.
Originally Posted By: Vizzy
Originally Posted By: bustednutz
Well I had an old V-Dub that ran like garbage. I pulled a vacuum line off the throttle body. Stuck it down a can of seafoam. Manually revved the throttle to keep it going. I ran half a can through at high rpm's. Then I deliberatly flooded it out with the seafoam. Let the stuff sit in the valves for half hour. Then started it up and watched one of the greatest smoke shows ever. I fumigated the entire neighborhood for bugs that evening. After that the car ran fantastic. I know the stuff works.
It may work and sometimes probably does. BUT if you're not lucky or experienced it's likely to end up DAMAGING someone else's ride!!!!!
Again you can get the SAME results or BETTER, from a safe cleaning kit like the 3M kit or similar.
I think unless you are truly an experienced tech or such folks just aimessly look for an easy cure and end up doing far much damage than just spending a few more bucks for a proper product.
Stay away from Seafoam unless you are experienced in working with cars!!!!!!!
I agree. After some good advice on here, I did a cleaning with water sprayed into the throttlebody.
Originally Posted By: bustednutz
Well I had an old V-Dub that ran like garbage. I pulled a vacuum line off the throttle body. Stuck it down a can of seafoam. Manually revved the throttle to keep it going. I ran half a can through at high rpm's. Then I deliberatly flooded it out with the seafoam. Let the stuff sit in the valves for half hour. Then started it up and watched one of the greatest smoke shows ever. I fumigated the entire neighborhood for bugs that evening. After that the car ran fantastic. I know the stuff works.
It may work and sometimes probably does. BUT if you're not lucky or experienced it's likely to end up DAMAGING someone else's ride!!!!!
Again you can get the SAME results or BETTER, from a safe cleaning kit like the 3M kit or similar.
I think unless you are truly an experienced tech or such folks just aimessly look for an easy cure and end up doing far much damage than just spending a few more bucks for a proper product.
Stay away from Seafoam unless you are experienced in working with cars!!!!!!!
I agree. After some good advice on here, I did a cleaning with water sprayed into the throttlebody.
Originally Posted By: Onmo'Eegusee
Originally Posted By: sciphi
At the bottom the guy suggests the el-cheapo (hah!) windshield washer fluid instead of plain water since the WW fluid is alcohol-based. Any credence to that?
There are setups intended for forced induction applications (turbo, supercharger) that spray windshield washer fluid into the intake for extra cooling.
well water/methanol injection cools down the forced air intake charge and cools combustion charge to stave of detonation.
In diesel applications it helps keep combustion temps and Exhaust gas temps in check.
Its not a fix all cure. I will warn that too much methanol concentration in the water/meth will send cylinder pressures through the roof as well as injecting too much water at wide open throttle and high loads will also send the cylinder pressures through the roof.
Originally Posted By: sciphi
At the bottom the guy suggests the el-cheapo (hah!) windshield washer fluid instead of plain water since the WW fluid is alcohol-based. Any credence to that?
There are setups intended for forced induction applications (turbo, supercharger) that spray windshield washer fluid into the intake for extra cooling.
well water/methanol injection cools down the forced air intake charge and cools combustion charge to stave of detonation.
In diesel applications it helps keep combustion temps and Exhaust gas temps in check.
Its not a fix all cure. I will warn that too much methanol concentration in the water/meth will send cylinder pressures through the roof as well as injecting too much water at wide open throttle and high loads will also send the cylinder pressures through the roof.
ionbeam22
Thread starter
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Bingo, at this point I'm leaning towards this being a problem with the plug wires/plugs. Plan to take this to dealer to see what they say.
Having done the professional fuel system cleaning (and unprofessional seafoaming) remaining possiblities include bad plugs/wire/coils or some kind of insoluble obstruction in the fuel injection pintles, since the cleaning wasn't done through the fuel rail.
Went to the dealer today for state inspection. Quoted me $130 for doing a computer diagnostic inspection + any reflashes if needed. Also told me that my spark plugs were "way overdue" for replacement (should be replaced at 30,000mi). LOL.
The lack of good salesmanship at dealerships is frightening. Why assume that anyone who knows about computer diagnostics and reflashes would fall for a line like that?
With no CEL, there is no immediate urgency. So to make this sale, the best line would have been to say "I can do your state inspection for $30, and since there are no obvious problems, and you want to be careful, I'll give you a break on doing a computer diagnostic run. Make it $100 flat for both."
Oh well, no sale here.
-----
Now this may be a PT cruiser specific thing, but I don't understand the idea of shooting Seafoam through the brake booster line, when you have a big thick vacuum line comming out of the PCV valve. This line attaches right after the intake butterfly valve giving you the most even distribution into the plenum.
The PCV system is designed this way because otherwise oily vapors would be directed causing uneven engine fouling. The brake booster just needs vacuum, so it doesn't matter where it is installed in the manifold.
Deep Creep is going to be aerosolised vs the having actual amounts of liquid sloshing about. That's what would scare me if I was using liquid seafoam and funnel. You pour too much in, and a big slug of seafoam hits all at once.
I'm not sure how much the physics of all this have been studied but I imagine that some of the cleaning action is due to solvation effects, and others due to vapor formation as the seafoam/water saturates the deposits and turns to steam/vapor. Maybe you need the right balance of non-combustable material to be effective.
And some of the cleaning could be due to the high RPM's that happen when you let air get into the intake manifold.
Bingo, at this point I'm leaning towards this being a problem with the plug wires/plugs. Plan to take this to dealer to see what they say.
Having done the professional fuel system cleaning (and unprofessional seafoaming) remaining possiblities include bad plugs/wire/coils or some kind of insoluble obstruction in the fuel injection pintles, since the cleaning wasn't done through the fuel rail.
Went to the dealer today for state inspection. Quoted me $130 for doing a computer diagnostic inspection + any reflashes if needed. Also told me that my spark plugs were "way overdue" for replacement (should be replaced at 30,000mi). LOL.
The lack of good salesmanship at dealerships is frightening. Why assume that anyone who knows about computer diagnostics and reflashes would fall for a line like that?
With no CEL, there is no immediate urgency. So to make this sale, the best line would have been to say "I can do your state inspection for $30, and since there are no obvious problems, and you want to be careful, I'll give you a break on doing a computer diagnostic run. Make it $100 flat for both."
Oh well, no sale here.
-----
Now this may be a PT cruiser specific thing, but I don't understand the idea of shooting Seafoam through the brake booster line, when you have a big thick vacuum line comming out of the PCV valve. This line attaches right after the intake butterfly valve giving you the most even distribution into the plenum.
The PCV system is designed this way because otherwise oily vapors would be directed causing uneven engine fouling. The brake booster just needs vacuum, so it doesn't matter where it is installed in the manifold.
Deep Creep is going to be aerosolised vs the having actual amounts of liquid sloshing about. That's what would scare me if I was using liquid seafoam and funnel. You pour too much in, and a big slug of seafoam hits all at once.
I'm not sure how much the physics of all this have been studied but I imagine that some of the cleaning action is due to solvation effects, and others due to vapor formation as the seafoam/water saturates the deposits and turns to steam/vapor. Maybe you need the right balance of non-combustable material to be effective.
And some of the cleaning could be due to the high RPM's that happen when you let air get into the intake manifold.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Vizzy
The fact is that you can do a more effective, SAFER!!!, job with a professionally designed intake engine cleaner like 3M or the like.
This product and others like 3M have you place a fine spray jet just inside the throttle body butterfly and reseal the plumbing for the intake and engine. You turn the car on depress the nozzle on the spary can and run the car at about 2500 rpms until the can is empty. So you have a sparkling clean intake and combustion chamber and this product and others like it also clean off carbon from the exhaust valves and the O2 sensor and cat converter.
Are you talking about the 3M DIY Fuel System Tuneup kit? http://www.amazon.com/3M-Yourself-System...8715&sr=8-1 The one with 3 components? Is it able to clean the injectors with the in-tank cleaner? Some professional system hook up to fuel rail and force the cleaner through the injectors but 3M DIY relies on regular add to the gas tank type of cleaner. Is it really powerful enough to clean the injectors?
Have you done many cars using 3M kit and do they all show good improvement?
- Vikas
The fact is that you can do a more effective, SAFER!!!, job with a professionally designed intake engine cleaner like 3M or the like.
This product and others like 3M have you place a fine spray jet just inside the throttle body butterfly and reseal the plumbing for the intake and engine. You turn the car on depress the nozzle on the spary can and run the car at about 2500 rpms until the can is empty. So you have a sparkling clean intake and combustion chamber and this product and others like it also clean off carbon from the exhaust valves and the O2 sensor and cat converter.
Are you talking about the 3M DIY Fuel System Tuneup kit? http://www.amazon.com/3M-Yourself-System...8715&sr=8-1 The one with 3 components? Is it able to clean the injectors with the in-tank cleaner? Some professional system hook up to fuel rail and force the cleaner through the injectors but 3M DIY relies on regular add to the gas tank type of cleaner. Is it really powerful enough to clean the injectors?
Have you done many cars using 3M kit and do they all show good improvement?
- Vikas
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Dualie
well water/methanol injection cools down the forced air intake charge and cools combustion charge to stave of detonation.
Its not a fix all cure. I will warn that too much methanol concentration in the water/meth will send cylinder pressures through the roof as well as injecting too much water at wide open throttle and high loads will also send the cylinder pressures through the roof.
And when you run out if you're tuned for it you're in trouble.
I've seen many Hi-Po engines both gas and diesel, that grenaded because the tune was set up for Meth and the owner ran out.
well water/methanol injection cools down the forced air intake charge and cools combustion charge to stave of detonation.
Its not a fix all cure. I will warn that too much methanol concentration in the water/meth will send cylinder pressures through the roof as well as injecting too much water at wide open throttle and high loads will also send the cylinder pressures through the roof.
And when you run out if you're tuned for it you're in trouble.
I've seen many Hi-Po engines both gas and diesel, that grenaded because the tune was set up for Meth and the owner ran out.
ionbeam22
Thread starter
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Some professional system hook up to fuel rail and force the cleaner through the injectors but 3M DIY relies on regular add to the gas tank type of cleaner. Is it really powerful enough to clean the injectors?
If you look closely the 3M kit is a three step kit. You get a can of gasoline additive, an aerosol can of throttle body cleaner, and an aerosol can of intake valve/piston cleaner which you shoot into a vacuum line.
Some professional system hook up to fuel rail and force the cleaner through the injectors but 3M DIY relies on regular add to the gas tank type of cleaner. Is it really powerful enough to clean the injectors?
If you look closely the 3M kit is a three step kit. You get a can of gasoline additive, an aerosol can of throttle body cleaner, and an aerosol can of intake valve/piston cleaner which you shoot into a vacuum line.
ionbeam22
Thread starter
Originally Posted By: CivicFan
I would have thought that changing the plug and the wires would be the first thing to do in this case.
Have you changed them?
Not yet. Since the engine was making a "huffing sound" like it was gasping for breath/sneezing, we thought that a dirty/sticky intake valve was more likely the issue than a fouled plug.
I wouldn't be shocked if both things were going on at the same time.
I would have thought that changing the plug and the wires would be the first thing to do in this case.
Have you changed them?
Not yet. Since the engine was making a "huffing sound" like it was gasping for breath/sneezing, we thought that a dirty/sticky intake valve was more likely the issue than a fouled plug.
I wouldn't be shocked if both things were going on at the same time.
Time to acquire some 1/8" diameter tube to run to the windshield washer fluid tank from a vacuum fitting on my Buick's throttle body. Eh, this summer fluid needed to come out anyhow!
Originally Posted By: ionbeam22
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Some professional system hook up to fuel rail and force the cleaner through the injectors but 3M DIY relies on regular add to the gas tank type of cleaner. Is it really powerful enough to clean the injectors?
If you look closely the 3M kit is a three step kit. You get a can of gasoline additive, an aerosol can of throttle body cleaner, and an aerosol can of intake valve/piston cleaner which you shoot into a vacuum line.
I still do not see which part of the kit forces the injector cleaning. If it is the gasoline additive, it has to be lot more potent than say Techron etc.
- Vikas
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Some professional system hook up to fuel rail and force the cleaner through the injectors but 3M DIY relies on regular add to the gas tank type of cleaner. Is it really powerful enough to clean the injectors?
If you look closely the 3M kit is a three step kit. You get a can of gasoline additive, an aerosol can of throttle body cleaner, and an aerosol can of intake valve/piston cleaner which you shoot into a vacuum line.
I still do not see which part of the kit forces the injector cleaning. If it is the gasoline additive, it has to be lot more potent than say Techron etc.
- Vikas
First un hook your battery and dry crank it to kill all the reserve energy in the caps. Hook up the battery and start the car. Take the car out on the high way stay one gear low so if it is an automatic stay in 3rd instead of D if it is a 5 speed manual stay in 4th to keep the RPM's up on the high way..... Get off on some back roads and do some engine breaking in 3rd.
When you get home shut it off and start it up about 10-15 times letting it run a minute or two between starts. It should be much better after that but it could take as many as 50 starts to completly reset the fuzy logic fuel mapping.Unless their is silicone in that can of spray cleaner it should not have anything in it that will harm the O2 sensor or cat.
When you get home shut it off and start it up about 10-15 times letting it run a minute or two between starts. It should be much better after that but it could take as many as 50 starts to completly reset the fuzy logic fuel mapping.Unless their is silicone in that can of spray cleaner it should not have anything in it that will harm the O2 sensor or cat.
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