Is Redline 0w30 worth it over 5w30? Eneos??

[MrWideTires]

Right now I have a blend of 35% Amsoil S.S. 0W30 and 65% Mobil1 EP 5W30 (and PureOne 14612)... my car seems to like it, I'll probably run it for 8k miles.. because this is on a 2004 SE-R SpecV and I'm really hard on it, I take this car to redline usually everyday a few times.

So next time I wanna try Pureone 14610 (longer), and an "exotic" oil.. which would you recommend me?? Eneos is not that expensive and I've heard wonders from it, I would be using the 5w30.
Redline costs more but I also hear wonders from it.. the 5w30 is expensive, and the 0w30 is $1 more per quart, is the 0w30 worth it?

What "exotic" oil do you recommend me??

 

[buster]

I like Redline because they are a very small American company that uses esters as the primary base oil in their products. (Rare) Their costumer service is also very good.

 

[simple_gifts]

What advantages do you wish to gain by running 0W-30 over 5W-30?

If you want to use RL, I would run 10W-30 or 5W-20 and avoid mixing with other brands.

 

[MrWideTires]

Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
What advantages do you wish to gain by running 0W-30 over 5W-30?

If you want to use RL, I would run 10W-30 or 5W-20 and avoid mixing with other brands.


0w30 is a bit thinner at start-up, and a bit thicker at operating temperature (compared to 5w30)... but it's $1 more per quart

 

[Epic_]

Run the one with the better HT/HS. Your Sentra won't care about the minor difference between 5w and 0w.

 

[qship1996]

Especially in florida!

 

[Ben99GT]

The 5W-30 is a more robust oil, 0W-30 has better cold temp properties.

It's like RedLine made a Summer and a Winter oil, I like it.

 

[simple_gifts]

I think you should look @ the 5W-20.

A 30 weight oil with a 20 on the label.

 

[JohnBrowning]

You live in Florida you are not going to gain anything that you can actually measure by using a 0W30 over a 5W30! Now if you lived near the Arctic Circle then maybe I would change my mind! If you not going to run the Redline at least 3 OCI's then do not bother wasting your money or anyone times doing a UOA on it as it will suck the first two OCI's. FOr a better discussion on it I would review the old Redline post's.

Redline is a great product but it's chemistry takes a few OCI's to settle down in the engine. As far as wear is concerned it is the additive package that does most of the work combined with a decent hths. It would matter if I used G-II+ or G-V base stock as long as they had the same additive package and the application did not exceed the physical characteristics of the G-II+ base stocks abilities as in colder or hatter then it could handle or more oxidation then it could handle etc..... the wear numbers would be close to the same even give the lower HTHS any G-II+ has when compared to a G-V of the same viscosity.

Synthetic especially the good ones really do not matter much until you hit the extremes. Their real advantage which is never really spoken about much besides by me is how much less of themselves they leave behind. In the long run this enhanced cleanliness can make a huge difference.Traditionally all name brand synthetics used to have beefier additive packages but that was before SM came along and castrated all of your good synthetics that where sold retail by making them drop their ZDDP to next to nothing and getting rid of a lot of phosphorous at the same time. SO most synthetics went from being able to go 18K-25K miles to barely better then the run of the mill dino on the shelf. Now SM and GF3 did improve the base stock's used in dino oil but it still left them weak in the knees too if you wanted to wear the rating that owner's manuals tell you to look for!

M1 has done down hill since that day and they muttied their own market with their EP line which often where not as good as the products they replaced like the Old 15W50 versus M1EP 15W50 etc....M1 has changed it mind and formula since I first come on this board more then a H.S. Home Coming Queen changes shoes getting ready for the big day! I still use their products more then anyone else's but that does not mean I am happy with what they have done.

If I owned your car I would look for a 5W30 with an HTHS around 3.5 with a nice additive package and either PAO or PAO+Ester based oil. I am thinking Amsoil S3K HD 5W30 would work great in that and you could hop of the oil marry go round for a while. Amsoil usually sticks with a good product formula for a while and their S3K is definitely a winner!IF you decide to go with Redline I would use their 5W30 you do not need to pay a $1 more for their 0W30 as you are not going to get any benefit from that extra $1. Another oil that would more then likely be a winner and is cheaper and available at Walmart is M1's 10W40 High Milage.

 

[simple_gifts]

OT:Glad to see JB back.

 

[Ben99GT]

Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
OT:Glad to see JB back.


+1

I enjoy reading his posts.

 

[MrWideTires]

I do not want to go back to Amsoil.. what's in my oil pan is the last bit of Amsoil I'm using (because I already had it), it's Signature Series 0w30.

So I'll probably try Redline 5w30 or Eneos 5w30.

One thing I do know is.. if in doubt, go to AutoZone and grab some GC

 

[Ben99GT]

Originally Posted By: MrWideTires
One thing I do know is.. if in doubt, go to AutoZone and grab some GC

Eh, I'll take the RedLine.

 

[Nederlander75]

The 1 UOA Ive seen on the Eneos was worse than the M1s we like to bash here, so no. Go with RL.