It must be becasue I have had alot of 4x4's but I often am up to my headlights in water anyway. Only killed one alternator in all my years of driving and that was becasue it was salt water.
How do I wash my engine compartment safely?
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Here's my method, done lots of engines this way. Mainly before a car show.
-Make sure engine is cool or only slightly warm. Do not run engine while cleaning.
-Spray down entire engine compartment with S100 Total Cycle Cleaner. Motorcycle shops have it and it is safe on ALL surfaces since you use it on a entire motorcycle. I never use Simple Green as it corrodes aluminium.
-Rinse with a garden hose on high pressure/jet setting, then switch to gentle rinse.
Never use a pressure washer under the hood! It forces water into places it can't get out of.
-Dry with leaf blower, then towel the rest.
-Spray entire engine compartment with tire dressing/let sit for 15 min, towel off any excess.
-Make sure engine is cool or only slightly warm. Do not run engine while cleaning.
-Spray down entire engine compartment with S100 Total Cycle Cleaner. Motorcycle shops have it and it is safe on ALL surfaces since you use it on a entire motorcycle. I never use Simple Green as it corrodes aluminium.
-Rinse with a garden hose on high pressure/jet setting, then switch to gentle rinse.
Never use a pressure washer under the hood! It forces water into places it can't get out of.
-Dry with leaf blower, then towel the rest.
-Spray entire engine compartment with tire dressing/let sit for 15 min, towel off any excess.
Originally Posted By: Cutehumor
why have a sparking clean engine bay? it was designed to get filthy
The owner's manual for my truck actually suggests cleaning the engine periodically. It even has diagrams for each engine showing what to cover (alt, fuse box, coil pack). I never cover anything though.
If the engine is cold, I spray Orange Blast on everything, scrub any mud off, then hose it down with low pressure water. I go for at least a 10 minute drive after. If any water is left after shutting down, you will get spots.
When I lived in an apartment the only way to wash the engine was with it running. I had to drive to a car wash, so I figured it was better to leave it running than to spray a hot engine while it was off. I never had a problem from this. To get water into the intake, you would have to spray between the inner and outer fender, so that wasn't a big risk with my vehicle. All of the electrical equipment should be able to hold up low pressure water as well, considering where it is located. This worked for me, and if the engine bay can get covered in mud with the engine running, I'm not too concerned about clean water getting on it.
why have a sparking clean engine bay? it was designed to get filthy
The owner's manual for my truck actually suggests cleaning the engine periodically. It even has diagrams for each engine showing what to cover (alt, fuse box, coil pack). I never cover anything though.
If the engine is cold, I spray Orange Blast on everything, scrub any mud off, then hose it down with low pressure water. I go for at least a 10 minute drive after. If any water is left after shutting down, you will get spots.
When I lived in an apartment the only way to wash the engine was with it running. I had to drive to a car wash, so I figured it was better to leave it running than to spray a hot engine while it was off. I never had a problem from this. To get water into the intake, you would have to spray between the inner and outer fender, so that wasn't a big risk with my vehicle. All of the electrical equipment should be able to hold up low pressure water as well, considering where it is located. This worked for me, and if the engine bay can get covered in mud with the engine running, I'm not too concerned about clean water getting on it.
Wow, reading through this I must be the only person to have ever driven through a deep puddle.
I think we're being a bit over cautious.
I usually rinse every spring (engine off), with no pressure from a garden hose, then wipe down with a rag of armor all and a short drive. Anything under the hood of a non-british car can get wet, it just can't handle a pressure washer.
Got to keep things reasonably clean to keep the salt monster at bay.
I think we're being a bit over cautious.
I usually rinse every spring (engine off), with no pressure from a garden hose, then wipe down with a rag of armor all and a short drive. Anything under the hood of a non-british car can get wet, it just can't handle a pressure washer.
Got to keep things reasonably clean to keep the salt monster at bay.
The only exceptions to this I think are LT1s and 5.slows...
Just hose it down, all the electrical connectors are weather sealed just for this purpose to keep moisture out, I hose down my new 08 Malibu 3.6 everytime I wash the car and it still looks as good as the day I drove it off the lot,I use a leaf blower to dry the engine out and let it run for a little while to finish drying.
This is a GREAT thread! I wish I'd known that Simple Green was bad for aluminum. I now know why my M54 engine has all that corrosion on it! All good ideas here. Since SG is out of the question now I'll probably use Griot's engine cleaner in it's place. My method is to cover up anything that looks sensitive, apply cleaner, hose off and blow dry with compressed air.
Something about a spotless engine bay....
A side note - I bought some Motorcraft "Engine shampoo/degreaser" and tried it out on a garbage can and it is very industrial smelling...kinda makes me think it is suitable for only the gunkiest of engines.
Anybody try this stuff?
Cheers!
Something about a spotless engine bay....
A side note - I bought some Motorcraft "Engine shampoo/degreaser" and tried it out on a garbage can and it is very industrial smelling...kinda makes me think it is suitable for only the gunkiest of engines.
Anybody try this stuff?
Cheers!
Originally Posted By: double vanos
This is a GREAT thread! I wish I'd known that Simple Green was bad for aluminum. I now know why my M54 engine has all that corrosion on it! All good ideas here. Since SG is out of the question now I'll probably use Griot's engine cleaner in it's place. My method is to cover up anything that looks sensitive, apply cleaner, hose off and blow dry with compressed air.
Something about a spotless engine bay....
A side note - I bought some Motorcraft "Engine shampoo/degreaser" and tried it out on a garbage can and it is very industrial smelling...kinda makes me think it is suitable for only the gunkiest of engines.
Anybody try this stuff?
Cheers!
Yeah, I never knew that SG was harmful to aluminum either. YOu learn something new here everyday.
I am going to do the tin foil idea around the parts that are easy to get to, use a garden hose and a mild soap, and then drive the car for a few miles.
I haven't tried that Griot's stuff, but I know they seem to only sell good stuff.
Cheers!
This is a GREAT thread! I wish I'd known that Simple Green was bad for aluminum. I now know why my M54 engine has all that corrosion on it! All good ideas here. Since SG is out of the question now I'll probably use Griot's engine cleaner in it's place. My method is to cover up anything that looks sensitive, apply cleaner, hose off and blow dry with compressed air.
Something about a spotless engine bay....
A side note - I bought some Motorcraft "Engine shampoo/degreaser" and tried it out on a garbage can and it is very industrial smelling...kinda makes me think it is suitable for only the gunkiest of engines.
Anybody try this stuff?
Cheers!
Yeah, I never knew that SG was harmful to aluminum either. YOu learn something new here everyday.
I am going to do the tin foil idea around the parts that are easy to get to, use a garden hose and a mild soap, and then drive the car for a few miles.
I haven't tried that Griot's stuff, but I know they seem to only sell good stuff.
Cheers!
Does anybody have any tips/differences to add around washing a modern Diesel engine?
I've been doing it this way for 30+ years.
Start with a cool engine.
1) Cover the alternator with plastic wrap / foil.
2)Spray down the engine and engine compartment with diesel fuel.
3) Let it sit for 1/2 hour.
4) Hose the engine / engine compartment off.
5) Remove the covering on the alternator.
5) Blow dry with a nozzle from an air compressor / leaf blower.
6) Drive the car to evaporate any remaining water.
Start with a cool engine.
1) Cover the alternator with plastic wrap / foil.
2)Spray down the engine and engine compartment with diesel fuel.
3) Let it sit for 1/2 hour.
4) Hose the engine / engine compartment off.
5) Remove the covering on the alternator.
5) Blow dry with a nozzle from an air compressor / leaf blower.
6) Drive the car to evaporate any remaining water.
Originally Posted By: jimvegas
-Spray down entire engine compartment with S100 Total Cycle Cleaner.
I'll put in another recommendation for S100 Total Cycle Cleaner. It kept my motorcycles looking like factory-new with ease, and is a secret weapon for cleaning a car engine. Only downside is the cost, but I believe the results justify it.
-Spray down entire engine compartment with S100 Total Cycle Cleaner.
I'll put in another recommendation for S100 Total Cycle Cleaner. It kept my motorcycles looking like factory-new with ease, and is a secret weapon for cleaning a car engine. Only downside is the cost, but I believe the results justify it.
Originally Posted By: Ryan
The only exceptions to this I think are LT1s and 5.slows...
maybe with unvented 92-94 y and fcar optis. A well sealed opti has no problem taking high pressure blasts of water Driven through many ranstorms with my 95 LT1 and it never had a hiccup
The only exceptions to this I think are LT1s and 5.slows...
maybe with unvented 92-94 y and fcar optis. A well sealed opti has no problem taking high pressure blasts of water
Driven through many ranstorms with my 95 LT1 and it never had a hiccup Originally Posted By: xtell
I've been doing it this way for 30+ years.
Start with a cool engine.
1) Cover the alternator with plastic wrap / foil.
2)Spray down the engine and engine compartment with diesel fuel.
3) Let it sit for 1/2 hour.
4) Hose the engine / engine compartment off.
5) Remove the covering on the alternator.
5) Blow dry with a nozzle from an air compressor / leaf blower.
6) Drive the car to evaporate any remaining water.
That's a pretty environmentally unsound method.
I've been doing it this way for 30+ years.
Start with a cool engine.
1) Cover the alternator with plastic wrap / foil.
2)Spray down the engine and engine compartment with diesel fuel.
3) Let it sit for 1/2 hour.
4) Hose the engine / engine compartment off.
5) Remove the covering on the alternator.
5) Blow dry with a nozzle from an air compressor / leaf blower.
6) Drive the car to evaporate any remaining water.
That's a pretty environmentally unsound method.
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All commercial car wash places must (at least here) have an oil/water separator and coalescing and skimming systems to address environmental concerns. My local car wash has an "Engine Cleaner" option. It's an ultra-low pressure setting and dispenses an engine degreaser. Works fine. Washing your engine in the street or in your driveway will get you into trouble.
Wow, I must seem lazy after reading all these posts.. When I wash the engine, I take it to the car wash before the engine is really warmed up yet, and blast it with the high pressure sprayer on either the engine clean or soap setting. I'm not careful of any given component, I go around the whole engine bay.
I take care in not doing this while the engine is too hot, exhaust manifolds can be cracked that way.
In all the years of doing this I've never had a problem with the high pressure spray. The engine looks as good as new after 120k. I can't stand a dirty engine-- When I see them it makes me think they are horribly maintained.
I take care in not doing this while the engine is too hot, exhaust manifolds can be cracked that way.
In all the years of doing this I've never had a problem with the high pressure spray. The engine looks as good as new after 120k. I can't stand a dirty engine-- When I see them it makes me think they are horribly maintained.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I use Simple Green, but diluted to at least 1-1 or 2-1
I also only apply it to a cold engine and don't let it dry, rinse with plenty of water at garden hose pressure, after 3.5 years no etching on my aluminum engine.
I question the statement Simple Green etches aluminum. I've used literally gallons of SG straight to clean many many engines- compartments and to date have never ever seen it etch aluminum, degrade rubber and etc. Now, if you want to see your A/C compressor turn white spray some Castrol Super Clean on it.
Take a couple pieces of cast and extruded aluminum( you pick the alloy), apply SG on them then tell me other than cleaning it what happens.
Here is my '05 Dakota engine and compartment cleaned with straight SG at least a dozen times or more. It looks like the day it rolled off the showroom floor!
Bill
I use Simple Green, but diluted to at least 1-1 or 2-1
I also only apply it to a cold engine and don't let it dry, rinse with plenty of water at garden hose pressure, after 3.5 years no etching on my aluminum engine.
I question the statement Simple Green etches aluminum. I've used literally gallons of SG straight to clean many many engines- compartments and to date have never ever seen it etch aluminum, degrade rubber and etc. Now, if you want to see your A/C compressor turn white spray some Castrol Super Clean on it.
Take a couple pieces of cast and extruded aluminum( you pick the alloy), apply SG on them then tell me other than cleaning it what happens.
Here is my '05 Dakota engine and compartment cleaned with straight SG at least a dozen times or more. It looks like the day it rolled off the showroom floor!
Bill
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