Can I Use 5W-30 When 10W-30 Indicated?

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Of our 3 family cars, mine ( 3800 Series II in a 2001 Buick) is the only one that requires 10W-30 for warm weather conditions. The others use 5W-30 24/7/365.

Of course, since I live in New England, the term "warm weather" is relative , to say the least. I just changed-out my oil to 5W-30 now that "the frost is on the pumpkin". Could I safely get away with running 5w-30 in Spring, Fall, and Mud Season as well as in Winter? It is alot easier to keep stocked with 5W-30 (I buy by the case) than to have to stock both weights. (I asked a guy at Pep Boys to "split a case" between weights and he near about came over the counter at me!)
 
The 30 is the number that you have to pay attention to at operating temperature. The 5w30 would give you a little easier starting in the winter time anyway, so my vote would be to go back to Pep Boys and buy the 5w30 cases, and tell that employee to just smile!!!
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Some flat-tappet motors do better on 10w-30 as it provides a better film of protection at start-up. I was told this by a GM engineer on the Caddy boards, and it has nothing to do with Bigfoot and Barbara Bush running off together. In New England I'd use 10w in the warm month or two and 5w in the winter.
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My truck calls for 10W-30. I switched to 5W-30 in it about 10 years ago. the only big difference I notice is easier cold starts. It ain't go no tappets.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Ugly3:
10w30 is obsolete, everyone who needs a 30 weight oil should use a 0w30 or a 5w30.

Not in a climate where it reaches 100 deg. I would rather use a 10w-30 vs 5w-30 during the heat here in the summer. When talking about conventional oils a 10w-30 oil is less prone to shear at extreme temperatures vs a 5w-30.
 
quote:

10w30 is obsolete, everyone who needs a 30 weight oil should use a 0w30 or a 5w30.

Yeah, I guess that drum is still getting beat!

I haven't viewed an up-to-date summary of total gallons sold by grade, but in 2001, 5W-30 & 10W-30 were very close, with 5W-30 slightly ahead.

So now in 2005, the 10W-30 grade is obsolete?
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quote:

Originally posted by Gilitar:

quote:

Originally posted by Ugly3:
10w30 is obsolete, everyone who needs a 30 weight oil should use a 0w30 or a 5w30.

Not in a climate where it reaches 100 deg. I would rather use a 10w-30 vs 5w-30 during the heat here in the summer. When talking about conventional oils a 10w-30 oil is less prone to shear at extreme temperatures vs a 5w-30.


The 0w30 oils are not conventional.
They'll do just fine in the hot climates.
Better than any conventional 10w-30.
 
Hey guys.. my first post here but i've been lurking for a while trying to get a better feel for things before I say anything.

I live in Phoenix, AZ where for a few months of the year it tops 115º and sometimes upwards of 120º+. Would you still suggest the 0w-30 or would I be better off with 5w-30 or does this still hold true when temperatures get further above 100º?
 
Welcome, spool. 0w30's are synthetic oils, so they should be ok to use in just about any climate. If you use conventional oil, 10w30 would be my pick for Arizona.
 
Cool thanks!

The car in question is an '06 Acura TL. Have a total of 140 miles on it.. They recommend a Synthetic for it, 5-20 i believe so I was curious. I still havent decided on how many miles i'm going to run on the first oil change. I might swap it out at 500 or 1000.. They of course recommend 3000 but I like to lean towards getting the particles that have shed off the engine out asap. Am I on the right track here or just too paranoid?
 
500 or 1.000 miles is early. I did at 2.500 and will do next at 6.000 miles (4.000 km and 10.000 km).
 
Years ago (WE)recomended 1000 mile OCI on a new car engine.machining is better now and so is the oil.I like a engine to get a little burnished in if thats the word.My last few new autos and a Cummins diesel I ran 3k on factory fill.Then went to 5k intervals until 15k and changed to full syn.The 2000 Merc.Gran Marquis now has 70k with 25k OCI filter and top off at 6 months.Amsoil 10w30.I do the same in a 1998 Dodge 1500 tr.with 318 only it rolls about 10 or 12k a year.Filter and top off at 6 months.Amsoil 10w30 also.The 03 truck with Cummins is amsoil 15w40 with a once a year or 12k change.Filter at 6 months and top off.
 
quote:

Originally posted by spool32:
Cool thanks!

The car in question is an '06 Acura TL. Have a total of 140 miles on it.. They recommend a Synthetic for it, 5-20 i believe so I was curious. I still havent decided on how many miles i'm going to run on the first oil change. I might swap it out at 500 or 1000.. They of course recommend 3000 but I like to lean towards getting the particles that have shed off the engine out asap. Am I on the right track here or just too paranoid?


I would leave it in longer. It seems that Honda is one company that actually uses a "break-in" oil with lots of Moly. If that engine requires 0W-20..I personally would use it until the summer heat hits. And after that I would consider a 30 wt. (That's just me personally though).
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10w30 is obsolete, everyone who needs a 30 weight oil should use a 0w30 or a 5w30: A bold statement cause if you have used both (me) I found the oil went down between OCI much more with the 5/30 over the 10/30. I would think the same would happen with 15/40 over 5/30. If it doesn't loose any oil between changes then I would use the 5/30 or 5/20.I for one use the 0/30 over 5/30 because of the German technology
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We had many 100+ degree days in a row here this summer and I like the 5/40 oils during the summer provided your manual calls for it.
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quote:

Originally posted by Gilitar:

quote:

Originally posted by Ugly3:
10w30 is obsolete, everyone who needs a 30 weight oil should use a 0w30 or a 5w30.

Not in a climate where it reaches 100 deg. I would rather use a 10w-30 vs 5w-30 during the heat here in the summer. When talking about conventional oils a 10w-30 oil is less prone to shear at extreme temperatures vs a 5w-30.


Well, my car seems to have no problems in Houston with a 0w-30 (Mobil 1 and GC).
For the original poster, I was concerned about running a 0w-* oil at first also, but the more I read, the more I understood that the 0w rating has little to nothing to do with how the car runs at operating temp.
 
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