How good are Motorcraft oil filters?

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I guess it was the 820-s I wondered about in post #1550795

Search Results for fl820s
Part Number Manufacturer WIX Part Number
FL820S MOTORCRAFT 51372


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Part Number: 51372
UPC Number: 765809513723
Principal Application: Ford/Lincoln/Mercury (91-09), Mazda (00-09), Cadillac STS-V, XLR-V (06-09)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 4.167
Outer Diameter Top: 3.668
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 22X1.5 MM
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 16
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: 2/20=12/25
Burst Pressure-PSI: 275
Max Flow Rate: 11-13 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 21
 
How about the FL-910? I bought a few of these for my Mazda. This has got to be one of the nicest looking filters I've bought. It looks to be of higher quality than AC Delco which I used on my old Chevy.







 
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That's not a silicone ADBV is it? Ones without the silicone ADBV don't use the superior base end bypass correct?
 
Originally Posted By: lanteau
That's not a silicone ADBV is it?


Couldn't tell you if my life depended on it. Are the silicon ones usually orange?
 
Originally Posted By: maximus
So what you're saying is I've got a bunch of sub-standard filters??


Those Motorcraft filters are basically the Purolator Classic filter ... which is a decent filter.

I ran an Motorcraft FL-822 on my V6 Altima, and cut it open after use. It looked in perfect condition. The ADBV (black, non-silicon) was still very soft and pliable. Filter was on for about 9 months and 4000 miles.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=110606&Number=1521446
 
Originally Posted By: maximus
So what you're saying is I've got a bunch of sub-standard filters??
Absolutely not! As said, Motorcraft is a very decent filter. Your particular app happened to have nitrile adbv and dome end bypass. So do many good filters. Use with confidence.
 
Can some one explain the two competing bypass valve arrangement/locations? Every filter I've seen or cut open has the bypass valve on the filter body on the end opposite of where the threads are (ie the end where you hold your hand when you tighten the filter in place).
 
Originally Posted By: 09rexwagon
Can some one explain the two competing bypass valve arrangement/locations? Every filter I've seen or cut open has the bypass valve on the filter body on the end opposite of where the threads are (ie the end where you hold your hand when you tighten the filter in place).


That's considered dome end. The drawbacks to this are that it allows oil to flow over the dirty side of the filter, possibly picking up contaminants before going through the valve. The up-side is that they're inexpensive, and do not cut back on the room inside of the filter.

The base end bypass prevents the oil from flowing over the dirty media when the bypass is open (which I've noticed on my car is very frequent) so less chance of engine damage. The drawback to this is that (in the FL-820S anyway) it means that there is less room inside to put the filtering media, and so the filter "cartridge" is significantly shorter.

http://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/id9.html

http://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/id14.html

Note that the PureONE is a shorter filter, but has a taller filter media.
 
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Originally Posted By: 09rexwagon
Can some one explain the two competing bypass valve arrangement/locations? Every filter I've seen or cut open has the bypass valve on the filter body on the end opposite of where the threads are (ie the end where you hold your hand when you tighten the filter in place).


That's considered dome end. The drawbacks to this are that it allows oil to flow over the dirty side of the filter, possibly picking up contaminants before going through the valve. The up-side is that they're inexpensive, and do not cut back on the room inside of the filter.

The base end bypass prevents the oil from flowing over the dirty media when the bypass is open (which I've noticed on my car is very frequent) so less chance of engine damage. The drawback to this is that (in the FL-820S anyway) it means that there is less room inside to put the filtering media, and so the filter "cartridge" is significantly shorter.

http://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/id9.html

http://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/id14.html

Note that the PureONE is a shorter filter, but has a taller filter media.
Ok makes sense. How do you know in your car you are in bypass mode frequently?
 
Does anyone out there in Gearhead Land know/have any data on Ford Motorcraft/Ford Racing oil filter efficiencies? It concerns me that so many major players proudly display and promote their filter's micron efficiency, on the box and web site, yet I can't find squat for Motorcraft/Ford Racing! (When not using a PureONE, I use the FL 820S in Motorcraft, and once in a while when I get a feather up my butt, a Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820).
21.gif
 
That information is hard to come by and validate. If you get it over the phone (assuming you can get a phone number), then you're at the whim of the lower wage tech rep that may be misreading the data. I'm always suspect when someone reports here "the tech line said some incredible micron rating at some incredible efficiency ..when it's so out of line with verifiable published data on something like WIX.

Since we're talking Purolator as the real source of the filter, you'll get into the conflict that while they produce it, they don't own the data. You may get to some MC tech line, but they probably don't have the data since they don't produce it.

I once saw the typical "full data" on a racing (perhaps high performance would be a better term) FL1A (forget the number, some XH or HD in it) on one SHO site. It gave the micron and PSID @ 10gpm data.

The data I trust is from Baldwin. They'll fax you the tech sheet on a given filter.
 
Originally Posted By: 09rexwagon
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Originally Posted By: 09rexwagon
Can some one explain the two competing bypass valve arrangement/locations? Every filter I've seen or cut open has the bypass valve on the filter body on the end opposite of where the threads are (ie the end where you hold your hand when you tighten the filter in place).


That's considered dome end. The drawbacks to this are that it allows oil to flow over the dirty side of the filter, possibly picking up contaminants before going through the valve. The up-side is that they're inexpensive, and do not cut back on the room inside of the filter.

The base end bypass prevents the oil from flowing over the dirty media when the bypass is open (which I've noticed on my car is very frequent) so less chance of engine damage. The drawback to this is that (in the FL-820S anyway) it means that there is less room inside to put the filtering media, and so the filter "cartridge" is significantly shorter.

http://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/id9.html

http://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/id14.html

Note that the PureONE is a shorter filter, but has a taller filter media.
Ok makes sense. How do you know in your car you are in bypass mode frequently?


My oil pressure gauge is after the filter. When it's cold-ish outside and I start my engine, the oil pressure immediately goes to about 2/3 on the dial gauge. Then as it warms up, there will be a sudden drop to about 3/7 when the bypass valve closes, and then as the oil continues to warm up and thin out the pressure gauge slowly continues to rise until at about 2/3 again. Sometimes when it's warm out it will just start up at the lower 3/7 indication, but if I give it some juice then it will go into bypass and the reading jumps to 2/3 or so, but quickly drops back down. This effect is way more evident with the thick Mobil 1 10W-30 High Mileage in it.
 
That's not how it should work. It should go to some level and hang, then (just sitting there) climb to wherever it ends up. The bypass and the relief are married. Lower pressure is always lower flow.
 
What you see is what you see. I'm just having a hard time figuring how it occurs.

At cold start relief/bypass ..the pump side should always go to the limit (that's in oil pump relief not necessarily all the time -but this is what most of us usually see upon start up FULL pressure). If we see below max pressure, then the reading must be down stream of the filter.

It almost sounds like you've got a differential pressure gauge ..except that would tend to drop WAY down to next to nothing most of the time. There you would have a high reading at start if you were in relief ..and that would retreat as you pumped more oil. If you goosed it, it would swing up. The effect would be worse as the filter aged.

Again, that's not what you have.

Downstream readings, depending on how dampened the gauge output is (many are buffered through the PCM) in a cold oil situation (assuming the relief/bypass are in use) would be a relatively quick up ramp (or faster) to the point of the relief/bypass event. Then as more flow (reduced releif/bypass -two separate mechanisms working in concert) ..the higher the reading gets and approaches peak pressure. Conversely, if one reads above the filter, you should see supply MAX pressure until the relief/bypass are out of the picture and visc/flow is reduced so that less pressure is developed pushing the oil through the engine.


..but you're seeing something different and I'm at a loss
21.gif


Ah..sticky relief valve (not likely if you're using Auto-Rx). That would make the high reading falsely high until the relief valve opened to the proper level. It would be like a AIS motor that needed cleaning. It would work ..but jerk around a bit in the transitions.

My behind itched. I had to pull something out of it.
 
This is something I've witnessed with about half a dozen FL-820S filters, and now a PL24651 which has a completely different type of bypass.

I wonder if my oil cooler is somehow involved in all of this. I've read that they don't open until the oil gets to a certain temperature.
 
On the Vic? I don't recall any thermostat in the setup I saw. I bought a few of the coolers (they're easy to adapt to NPT, btw) and one of them was the whole setup. The dealer replaced an engine and the engine came in with the setup for the cooler. The owners engine didn't have one, so the tech scavenged the extra parts and sold them on ebay.

...but it does add one more element of complexity to figure.

Good mystery.
 
Yeah, they do not have a thermostat. Pretty much the coolant regulates it.
Did you get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge? I know the stock one on the Vic (actually most late model fords) is nothing more than an on-off switch.
This is why in '05 they went to a idiot light for oil as opposed to an idiot gauge.
 
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