super tech oil filter?
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Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
My issues with SuperTech and AAP and other in-house filters & oil is that their supplier can change month to month.
AFAIK, neither of the vendors that you've mentioned have ever changed producers. ST has always been made by Champion Labs and, again AFAIK, the AA Total Grip has been made by Purolator.
Now I believe that some stuff sold at AA (like STP and whatnot) may swing one way or the other due to mergers and acquisitions in the filter industry, so if you're referring to "labels" in general, sure.. and certain part numbers from some labels (those that aren't actually filter producers)can surely be from one producer or another in terms of "filler" product .. but ..
Yes, Bosch is no longer a Champ product. It, Purolator, and other Purolator made filters are now made by a new company partly owned by Bosch. No reason to expect them to be the same.
Quote:
My issues with SuperTech and AAP and other in-house filters & oil is that their supplier can change month to month.
AFAIK, neither of the vendors that you've mentioned have ever changed producers. ST has always been made by Champion Labs and, again AFAIK, the AA Total Grip has been made by Purolator.
Now I believe that some stuff sold at AA (like STP and whatnot) may swing one way or the other due to mergers and acquisitions in the filter industry, so if you're referring to "labels" in general, sure.. and certain part numbers from some labels (those that aren't actually filter producers)can surely be from one producer or another in terms of "filler" product .. but ..
Yes, Bosch is no longer a Champ product. It, Purolator, and other Purolator made filters are now made by a new company partly owned by Bosch. No reason to expect them to be the same.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Quote:
My issues with SuperTech and AAP and other in-house filters & oil is that their supplier can change month to month.
AFAIK, neither of the vendors that you've mentioned have ever changed producers. ST has always been made by Champion Labs and, again AFAIK, the AA Total Grip has been made by Purolator.
Now I believe that some stuff sold at AA (like STP and whatnot) may swing one way or the other due to mergers and acquisitions in the filter industry, so if you're referring to "labels" in general, sure.. and certain part numbers from some labels (those that aren't actually filter producers)can surely be from one producer or another in terms of "filler" product .. but ..
+1 Advance Auto Parts commercial accounts is now Powerflo, like AAP Total Grip, is made by Purolator. Been some threads here about them, and they look to be a solid quality made filter. I've seen ZERO evidence that any Purolator branded filter or Motorcraft has decreased in quality. Still top quality stuff. Latest Bitog cut open Bosch filter appears to be another top quality Pure One.
I can't speak to the farmed out generics made to spec of vendor like Quaker State filter. Those are made to the specs of the vendor not Purolator. Still haven't seen any Puro made without metal endcaps.
Agree too on ST. Always Champ made to my memory and knowledge. I prefer the <3in. dia. blue dot ST's with metal endcaps. But, I'm currently using ST Ecore #3614. As said, price is now the issue with ST. Availabilty of all apps. at Wally's can be an issue.
Quote:
My issues with SuperTech and AAP and other in-house filters & oil is that their supplier can change month to month.
AFAIK, neither of the vendors that you've mentioned have ever changed producers. ST has always been made by Champion Labs and, again AFAIK, the AA Total Grip has been made by Purolator.
Now I believe that some stuff sold at AA (like STP and whatnot) may swing one way or the other due to mergers and acquisitions in the filter industry, so if you're referring to "labels" in general, sure.. and certain part numbers from some labels (those that aren't actually filter producers)can surely be from one producer or another in terms of "filler" product .. but ..
+1 Advance Auto Parts commercial accounts is now Powerflo, like AAP Total Grip, is made by Purolator. Been some threads here about them, and they look to be a solid quality made filter. I've seen ZERO evidence that any Purolator branded filter or Motorcraft has decreased in quality. Still top quality stuff. Latest Bitog cut open Bosch filter appears to be another top quality Pure One.
I can't speak to the farmed out generics made to spec of vendor like Quaker State filter. Those are made to the specs of the vendor not Purolator. Still haven't seen any Puro made without metal endcaps.
Agree too on ST. Always Champ made to my memory and knowledge. I prefer the <3in. dia. blue dot ST's with metal endcaps. But, I'm currently using ST Ecore #3614. As said, price is now the issue with ST. Availabilty of all apps. at Wally's can be an issue.
Ive heard good things about the ST's, but will not use them.
Just as i will not use Fram because of cardboard end caps, i do not like the idea of a plastic element core.
Hot oil + plastic = weak core and possible deformation.
Its just my personal prefference, so my apologies to the ST fans.
I preffer fluted steel.
Just as i will not use Fram because of cardboard end caps, i do not like the idea of a plastic element core.
Hot oil + plastic = weak core and possible deformation.
Its just my personal prefference, so my apologies to the ST fans.
I preffer fluted steel.
It is not regular plastic, it is nylon, and it is extremely strong.
I've used SuperTech ST3593A's, ST3387A's and ST6607's and they both worked fine. The element in the 6607 was extremely warped after 5k miles, but still in tact and looked like it was still doing its job.
I've seen ZERO evidence that any Purolator branded filter or Motorcraft has decreased in quality. [/quote]
While you may choose to ignore my repeated posts about less media now, others may not. Under their new ownership, Purolator appears to me to have gone down hill.
While you may choose to ignore my repeated posts about less media now, others may not. Under their new ownership, Purolator appears to me to have gone down hill.
Originally Posted By: labman
Quote:
I've seen ZERO evidence that any Purolator branded filter or Motorcraft has decreased in quality.
While you may choose to ignore my repeated posts about less media now, others may not. Under their new ownership, Purolator appears to me to have gone down hill.
You keep saying that, and maybe it was an isolated case (specific filter p/n?) that you saw. Someone cut open a blue and new yellow PureONE and it looked the same inside. In fact, the new yellow PureONEs are claimed to be 99.9% effiecent at 20u when the old PureONEs were 98%.
Post #1534343 in link below:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1536020&fpart=3
Quote:
I've seen ZERO evidence that any Purolator branded filter or Motorcraft has decreased in quality.
While you may choose to ignore my repeated posts about less media now, others may not. Under their new ownership, Purolator appears to me to have gone down hill.
You keep saying that, and maybe it was an isolated case (specific filter p/n?) that you saw. Someone cut open a blue and new yellow PureONE and it looked the same inside. In fact, the new yellow PureONEs are claimed to be 99.9% effiecent at 20u when the old PureONEs were 98%.
Post #1534343 in link below:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1536020&fpart=3
Your are saying you missed all the times I have mentioned it was an L 10193? And Oh it was the last 3 of them.
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Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
It is not regular plastic, it is nylon, and it is extremely strong.
I agree.
Whatever it's made of, it's solid to well beyond any temp your oil can endure. If it's Nylon ...then the working temp is up there with Teflon (FEP) around 500F+.
The only weakness is the same as composite rad end tanks. They're stronger than metal ..much stronger, but worthless when fractured or otherwise damaged.
Properly fitted, there's no reason to worry about the composite cage.
It is not regular plastic, it is nylon, and it is extremely strong.
I agree.
Whatever it's made of, it's solid to well beyond any temp your oil can endure. If it's Nylon ...then the working temp is up there with Teflon (FEP) around 500F+.
The only weakness is the same as composite rad end tanks. They're stronger than metal ..much stronger, but worthless when fractured or otherwise damaged.
Properly fitted, there's no reason to worry about the composite cage.
If I were designing my ultimate filter, it would have the E-core nylon cage, although slightly beefed up.
Metal endcaps, E-core type nylon cage, Synteq media, built in magnetic ring around the base end bypass valve, silicone ADBV and gasket.
Metal endcaps, E-core type nylon cage, Synteq media, built in magnetic ring around the base end bypass valve, silicone ADBV and gasket.
"While you may choose to ignore my repeated posts about less media now, others may not. Under their new ownership, Purolator appears to me to have gone down hill."
Based on the pictures of cut open Purolators, Motorcraft and most recently Bosch on BITOG, they don't appear to me have missed a beat. You can disagree with my conclusions based on past and recent Bitog picture posts, plus my own experience cutting open Puro's, most recently a PP L14610. As said before, I'll just agree to disagree. I'm very satisfied with the Purolator filters I use and the ones including Motocraft and Bosch I've seen posted here.
"What does my extra buck over an ST3593A get me, but enriching a foreign owned company?"
Many of the Purolator's are still made in America by American workers. And, some of the filters by American owned filter companies are now made in foreign countries.
Probably an excellent idea not to purchase any more Purolators or any Motorcraft or Bosch if you don't like the filters and partial Bosch ownership.
Based on the pictures of cut open Purolators, Motorcraft and most recently Bosch on BITOG, they don't appear to me have missed a beat. You can disagree with my conclusions based on past and recent Bitog picture posts, plus my own experience cutting open Puro's, most recently a PP L14610. As said before, I'll just agree to disagree. I'm very satisfied with the Purolator filters I use and the ones including Motocraft and Bosch I've seen posted here.
"What does my extra buck over an ST3593A get me, but enriching a foreign owned company?"
Many of the Purolator's are still made in America by American workers. And, some of the filters by American owned filter companies are now made in foreign countries.
Probably an excellent idea not to purchase any more Purolators or any Motorcraft or Bosch if you don't like the filters and partial Bosch ownership.
Originally Posted By: labman
Your are saying you missed all the times I have mentioned it was an L 10193? And Oh it was the last 3 of them.
I probably saw you post the filter number a time or two, but don't make note since it's not one that any of my vehicles uses. Did you have a thread about this? Got any specific info or photos of the differences? Has anyone else noticed similar changes in other Purolator filters?
Your are saying you missed all the times I have mentioned it was an L 10193? And Oh it was the last 3 of them.
I probably saw you post the filter number a time or two, but don't make note since it's not one that any of my vehicles uses. Did you have a thread about this? Got any specific info or photos of the differences? Has anyone else noticed similar changes in other Purolator filters?
Originally Posted By: OAS
Ive heard good things about the ST's, but will not use them.
Just as i will not use Fram because of cardboard end caps, i do not like the idea of a plastic element core.
Hot oil + plastic = weak core and possible deformation.
Its just my personal prefference, so my apologies to the ST fans.
I preffer fluted steel.
My ST has metal end caps and metal core. Just because it's an ST doesn't mean it's an E-Core
Ive heard good things about the ST's, but will not use them.
Just as i will not use Fram because of cardboard end caps, i do not like the idea of a plastic element core.
Hot oil + plastic = weak core and possible deformation.
Its just my personal prefference, so my apologies to the ST fans.
I preffer fluted steel.
My ST has metal end caps and metal core. Just because it's an ST doesn't mean it's an E-Core
Originally Posted By: Silver02ex
Originally Posted By: OAS
Ive heard good things about the ST's, but will not use them.
Just as i will not use Fram because of cardboard end caps, i do not like the idea of a plastic element core.
Hot oil + plastic = weak core and possible deformation.
Its just my personal prefference, so my apologies to the ST fans.
I preffer fluted steel.
My ST has metal end caps and metal core. Just because it's an ST doesn't mean it's an E-Core
True. But the vast majority of Super Tech filters are of the e-core design.
Originally Posted By: OAS
Ive heard good things about the ST's, but will not use them.
Just as i will not use Fram because of cardboard end caps, i do not like the idea of a plastic element core.
Hot oil + plastic = weak core and possible deformation.
Its just my personal prefference, so my apologies to the ST fans.
I preffer fluted steel.
My ST has metal end caps and metal core. Just because it's an ST doesn't mean it's an E-Core
True. But the vast majority of Super Tech filters are of the e-core design.
I'm sure this website has been posted to death on here http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html but it's very interesting anyway. It's controversial, but it's probalby the closest thing I can find online to an objective look inside filters.
As I read this guy's website and http://www.lesabret.com/filters/filter.html
It sure looks like the Champion Labs make a lot of cr*p. Ecore - isn't this the "economy" core design? It's certainly not "e" for environment.
Here's another terrifying thread: http://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-drive...tsa-pics-4.html
As I read this guy's website and http://www.lesabret.com/filters/filter.html
It sure looks like the Champion Labs make a lot of cr*p. Ecore - isn't this the "economy" core design? It's certainly not "e" for environment.
Here's another terrifying thread: http://www.myg37.com/forums/engine-drive...tsa-pics-4.html
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Seriously BITOG, the word "c r a p" is censored? What is this kindergarten?
I still see nothing wrong with e-core filters. I just cut one open and it looked top-notch.
There's probably nothing "wrong" with wally world filters, or oil. You probably could use any old motor oil that's API-SM (or whatever the latest letter is) certified and it would be just fine for your first 150,000 miles.
The point is there are much, much better products avaialbe - sometimes at the same cost or less.
The point is there are much, much better products avaialbe - sometimes at the same cost or less.
Please tell me where I can buy a filter with a thread end bypass for the price of an ST?
Oh, there may be more profit and overhead goes to Germany than is paid to American labor for a Purolator.
Oh, there may be more profit and overhead goes to Germany than is paid to American labor for a Purolator.
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