Chrysler 2.7 L V6, PCV + Hosing ... Help/Opinions?

[BigNick]

20001 Chrysler Sebring 140,000km (currently with TorquePower 5w30 and 10 ounces ARX - Valvoline 5w30 for Rinse phase next)

5,000km OCI (Dealer dino+Filter), Last 20,000 (synthetic + PureOne/Bosch Filters)

Being a sludger, I am about to change the PCV valve (labeled in pic). Reading up on here I decided to check the hosing that connects to the PCV. It has some "gunk", or sludge build up in it, but fairly clear (able to pass a drinking straw thru). Was thinking of replacing the PCV hose and was quoted $58 from the dealer over the phone. Kinda expensive.. maybe I'll just clean it out.

Questions:
1) Bought a Purolator PCV valve.. Should I get an OEM instead? How tight should I tighten it? "till it's snug"? or is there a requirement.
2) A & C in the pic are just rubber hoses. Best way to clean them?
3) B in the pic is a metal tube with a rubber sleeve around it. Attached to it is a wire (2) which clips to engine (1). What is the wire? Best way to clean this metal piece out? Or can I mess something up by cleaning it?
4) D is like a solid nipple where the C hose connects. I could not disconnect the C hose from D, but I didn't try so hard. The D area circled is clean, from possibly oil coming out (but not much). Is this an issue? Can I safely unscrew the one screw that connects D to the engine? Clean it out?
5) All pieces freely disconnected from each other (except C and D). I can just unscrew the old PCV valve, screw in the new valve, and reconnect the cleaned hoses right? Nothing I have to do in between, or in a particular order?

THANKS for any advice and help!
Note: this is not my engine.. just a pic from the internet

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[BigNick]

Can I just use the garden hose to forcibly push out any build up in the hoses, and then let them dry well?

 

[StevieC]

1) I would use a quality SM rated oil and change at a reasonable interval no more than 5K miles.

2) At every oil change I would take off the hoses and PCV valve and put some Brake cleaner in each piece, and swish is back and forth using your fingers at both ends to hold the fluid in to clean any residue that may have accumulated and then let drain out. Do this until the Brake cleaner you spray in comes out clear.

3) Use some compressed air to blow out the residual brake cleaner and to dry the insides of the hoses/PCV and then reinstall all parts on the car.

4) Replace the PCV every 20K Miles with an OEM one or sooner if needed, and just replace the hoses as needed.

Note: The spring(s) in the PCV may get week and cause it not to function properly. Shaking it or blowing/sucking it will not reveal minor problems which could lead to sludge!

Follow this advice and you will have nothing to worry about!

P.s. If you want to go one step further, you could install a catch can in the line to help keep the gunk from building up on the PCV. Look up my $22 Catch can thread. I can help you with it if you are interested.

 

[BigNick]

Thanks for the info StevieC!
I now run synthetic and change every 6,000km. Didn't know about the brake cleaner process. I will try that! I changed the PCV with the Purolator, but will go with OEM soon.

I've read the thread about your Catch Can. Nice job! I think I'll just change the PCV and clean the hoses periodically and go from there! Thanks again!

 

[StevieC]

I'm sure the Purolator PCV will be fine, but keep a very close eye on the oil level and it's condition. At the first sign that there may be a problem change it out.

Thanks for the comments on the CC, was a fun project.

 

[doitmyself]

My can of brake cleaner says to NOT allow it to contact plastic, rubber, or paint. Be careful.

 

[StevieC]

I have been doing it for years without issue and mine says the same thing. I think it's just because they don't want to be liable.

I think your PCV is Neoprene hose anyways, which is not rubber.

 

[bobfather99]

You could use some gun cleaning brushes in the proper size to get any gunk out of the PCV lines.