best oil for a vintage 2stroke?

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I'm picking up a '73 Suzuki GT250 (oil injection, not premix) tomorrow that I'm planning to ride daily. For those of you who have or had a two stroke road bike, what kind of oil do or did you use? Are the factory (Suzuki CCI Super2, Yamalube, etc) good compared to the aftermarket oils from Redline, Motul, Klotz, Spectro, etc? Are there any issues when switching between brands or types of 2T oil, for example jetting?

Thanks in advance...
 
I never had any oil injected 1973 road bike, but that is an interresting bike, Congrats on the find.
I have use many 2 cycle vehicles and I found the best results using AMSOIL products.
your application oil injected would be hard to make a proper choice.
I would have to have more info, like factory running ratio using the injection and I would want to see how the system on the bike actually worked and how it is designed.
I would use any of Amsoils 2 cycle oils simply because I have used them all in all applications 2 cycle.
there is a few site sponsors here that may have seen this application and can chime in.
Great find! really nice bike!
 
I have owned A Yamaha 125 twin a 350 twin and a Kawasaki 500 triple and a 2003 Yamaha 200cc ATV all oil injected. there is no jetting change required as the oil is injected into the engine not through the carbs. An oil designed to be run in an oil injected 2 cycle engine would be the best . Any proper oil would work .
 
I used Silkolene Pro 2 in my injected Yamaha.Yamalube is a good semi synthetic for injected bikes....good value for money if you get it in a 4 litre pack.
 
Castrol TTS would be my first choice. Act-Evo or Lucas 2 cycle (both semi synthetics, but good specs and virtually the same oil) would be number two. Number three for me would be Blendzall injector. This is castor based, and runs a little dirty, but would take very good care of your air cooled scoot. BUT, if you can find some old stock, M1 Racing 2T would beat both of them, if you can score some. It's been out of production for a while. Maybe your AZ has some sitting somewhere.... when it rings up for a penny a quart, just pay and run.. :).
Some of my best memories are from high school on a GT380 triple.
 
My dad always used Bel-Ray SI7 in his '67 YDS3, and it made it to 35,000 miles before needing a rebuild. And even that rebuild was actually because it sat for 15 years and rusted fast.
 
Any good synthetic 2-stroke oil at slightly leaner mixture will work fine. If the factory called for 32 to 1 ratio, then go to 40 to 1 and you'll be happy. Whatever you do, don't use "bean" oil in that old bike or you won't be happy.

BTW, I don't think I would trust that old injector pump with the vital job of lubricating the engine. I would disconnect the pump and pre-mix the oil and gas. I had several old 2-strokes sieze because the old pump stopped working and I didn't know until it was too late. You know when you pre-mix that the engine is getting oil if it is getting gas.
 
Don't do that on a Kawasaki Triple! The oil is also pumped to the cam bearings!

Actually almost any quality modern 2-stroke oil is so far superior to the stuff from the '60-70's you won't have any problems that are oil-related. Now getting the oil where it is supposed to be (and in the proper mix) can be a problem but if you know how to read plugs you can, indeed, lean them out a bit.

I never had a fouled plug on my '74 H2 750, my '71 H1 500 or my '76 S1 250 Triples when I used modern 2-stroke oil (mostly $0.99 Havoline dino pints) in the '90's and beyond.

Wish I still had the S1: what a sweet little bike!

Cheers!
 
An old trick we used to use when we were worried about oil injector pump performance was to ALSO run a 50:1 mix in the gas tank.

Just sayin.

With today's synthetic 2-stroke oils you'll get less smoke.
 
Originally Posted By: ZGRider
Any good synthetic 2-stroke oil at slightly leaner mixture will work fine. If the factory called for 32 to 1 ratio, then go to 40 to 1 and you'll be happy. Whatever you do, don't use "bean" oil in that old bike or you won't be happy.


What do you base this statement on? Frankly, being air cooled, and a piston port (no power valves here) a "bean" oil is a fine choice, especially if it's a little on the lean side. First, castor has an affinity for heat, actually being attracted to hot spots. As castor degrades through combustion, it reduces to platelets that keep on lubricating, eventually winding up as varnish. In a power valved two stroke, this means extra maintenance and a possibility of sluggish power valve action, causing power loss. But not so in the old GT Suzuki's. There have been many tests, both personal, and by two stroke tuners... castor makes more power for longer than any petroleum base, whether conventional, or ground up manufactured synthetics. The trade off is carbon and varnish. It is dirty oil, but the risk in this bike is minimal. Blendzall 455 is the only injector two stroke oil I know of. Common castor blends are not suited for injector apps, including Maxima 927, Castrol A747, Klotz BeNol, and Shell Advance M. All this being said, there were several runs on that GT380 mentioned where there was nothing but regular leaded in the tank, and 30 weight non detergent in the oil tank/ injector system.
 
Use injector oil, a snowmobile or watercraft oil would be a good choice, not a tcw2 outboard oil and not premix only oil. Monitor it usage, how much you have to add to the oil tank vs. how much fuel you use for afew tanks. Calculate the ratio and adjust the pump as needed to get it in the 40-60:1 range. Since they pump variable that'll give you plenty of oil at full throttle, and not too much at lower rpms. Yamalube S, Amsoil Interceptor, etc. come in gallons so you can save a few bucks over buying quarts.
 
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