Dont be cheap. Use what the mfg recommends in each, at least until the warranty is up.
2009 Challenger RT Oil Recommendation?
- Thread starter Speedy!
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RP 0W20 has turned some good UOA results. And I don't think you'd go wrong with Mobil 1 0W30 either.
Originally Posted By: Speedy1975
OK, so I've used the Castrol GTX 10W30 in my 4Runner, 4 cylinder Honda Accord, and V6 Honda Accord for 7 years. All of these vehicles called for 5W20, but the manual said 10W30 was fine.
On this Challenger, the manual says to ONLY use 5W20. So now my question....if I'm going to use 5W20 in the Challenger, I guess it'd be best to go ahead and use 5W20 in the 4Runner and both Accords?
I just hate to switch oils since I've had such good luck with that 10W30, but I guess we're all resistant to change and maybe it's time?
The 4Runner is Supercharged if that makes any difference.
Sometimes change is good. If the 4Runner and Accords call for a 5W20 oil, then by all means change over to it. You are not going to ruin your cars.
OK, so I've used the Castrol GTX 10W30 in my 4Runner, 4 cylinder Honda Accord, and V6 Honda Accord for 7 years. All of these vehicles called for 5W20, but the manual said 10W30 was fine.
On this Challenger, the manual says to ONLY use 5W20. So now my question....if I'm going to use 5W20 in the Challenger, I guess it'd be best to go ahead and use 5W20 in the 4Runner and both Accords?
I just hate to switch oils since I've had such good luck with that 10W30, but I guess we're all resistant to change and maybe it's time?
The 4Runner is Supercharged if that makes any difference.
Sometimes change is good. If the 4Runner and Accords call for a 5W20 oil, then by all means change over to it. You are not going to ruin your cars.
Final thoughts on this....I have a buddy that works in the oil testing business. He swears up and down that using a heavier weight oil is ALWAYS better. He claims that the 5W20 is only to get better EPA mileage ratings and that it's actually not as good for the motor as a 10W30, 10W40 or even 10W50. He runs 20W50 in everything he owns.
He went into a bunch of technical jargon about testing engines at his facility and how the wear materials were always much less with heavier oils.
Thoughts on this?
He went into a bunch of technical jargon about testing engines at his facility and how the wear materials were always much less with heavier oils.
Thoughts on this?
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Originally Posted By: Greaser
I would use syn in a supercharged engine always.
Its not TURBOcharged- a belt-driven supercharger doesn't have the same heat soaking effect that the (oil cooled) turbocharger bearing right next to the exhaust-driven turbine does on a turbocharged car. Dino is just fine here.
I would use syn in a supercharged engine always.
Its not TURBOcharged- a belt-driven supercharger doesn't have the same heat soaking effect that the (oil cooled) turbocharger bearing right next to the exhaust-driven turbine does on a turbocharged car. Dino is just fine here.
Originally Posted By: Speedy1975
Final thoughts on this....I have a buddy that works in the oil testing business. He swears up and down that using a heavier weight oil is ALWAYS better.
He went into a bunch of technical jargon about testing engines at his facility and how the wear materials were always much less with heavier oils.
Thoughts on this?
I disagree with him, or at least I think his claim generalizes way too much. The correct weight to run is always something of a balancing act, and you can go too heavy as easily (more easily, in my opinion) than you can go too light. The general idea has always been that a heavy oil will resist getting "squeezed" out of the high-pressure contact areas of an engine- places like the cam lobe-to-follower interface and the upper half of each connecting rod bearing. But truth be told, the seemingly large difference in thickness between a 20 weight and 50 weight oil is NOTHING compared to the contact pressures involved. That's why oils have additives to protect when the oil is under high pressure. But the difference speed that an oil flows through the engine's plumbing is not negligible when you compare a 20 to a 50. Thicker oil may show a higher pressure on the oil pressure gauge, but its actually FLOWING more slowly through the engine much more slowly than a thin oil, and so its not carrying away heat nearly as well. Thicker oils also don't get carried up against the underside of the pistons as well because they don't squirt out of the conrod cylinder-wall squirt holes (or piston squirters on turbo engines) as easily, so you get less cooling there also.
All in all, I'd stay either right on or very close to the manufacturers recommendations, and if I stray from the recommendation its on the top (hot) number, not the cool number. Thats one (of many) reasons that I'm such a fan of 5w40 synthetic HD engine oils for my older-tech engines (the 440s and the Jeep get these oils).
Final thoughts on this....I have a buddy that works in the oil testing business. He swears up and down that using a heavier weight oil is ALWAYS better.
He went into a bunch of technical jargon about testing engines at his facility and how the wear materials were always much less with heavier oils.
Thoughts on this?
I disagree with him, or at least I think his claim generalizes way too much. The correct weight to run is always something of a balancing act, and you can go too heavy as easily (more easily, in my opinion) than you can go too light. The general idea has always been that a heavy oil will resist getting "squeezed" out of the high-pressure contact areas of an engine- places like the cam lobe-to-follower interface and the upper half of each connecting rod bearing. But truth be told, the seemingly large difference in thickness between a 20 weight and 50 weight oil is NOTHING compared to the contact pressures involved. That's why oils have additives to protect when the oil is under high pressure. But the difference speed that an oil flows through the engine's plumbing is not negligible when you compare a 20 to a 50. Thicker oil may show a higher pressure on the oil pressure gauge, but its actually FLOWING more slowly through the engine much more slowly than a thin oil, and so its not carrying away heat nearly as well. Thicker oils also don't get carried up against the underside of the pistons as well because they don't squirt out of the conrod cylinder-wall squirt holes (or piston squirters on turbo engines) as easily, so you get less cooling there also.
All in all, I'd stay either right on or very close to the manufacturers recommendations, and if I stray from the recommendation its on the top (hot) number, not the cool number. Thats one (of many) reasons that I'm such a fan of 5w40 synthetic HD engine oils for my older-tech engines (the 440s and the Jeep get these oils).
If you are looking to use a 5W-30 dino, I'd go with Havoline DS. It is on the thinner side of the 5W-30 scale, sheers very little, and stays in the thick 5W-20 range.
Well I am sure the book opts for other oil weights...I bet 5w30 is in there based on your temperature chart in you manual. FYI my dad's SRT-8 6.1L is factory fill with mobil-1 0w40...wonder why the 5.7 got 5w20 dino like all other mopar standard daily driver cars?
Originally Posted By: FastSUV
FYI my dad's SRT-8 6.1L is factory fill with mobil-1 0w40...wonder why the 5.7 got 5w20 dino like all other mopar standard daily driver cars?
NO 6.1L (whether MT or AT) has MDS. So that might be the key difference, what's odd is that his manual doesn't break out the MT 5.7, which also doesn't have MDS.
Even still, I can't believe that MDS is *so* demanding of a narrow vis range that it will work on 5w20 and not on 5w30. But as others have said many times, the 5w20s keep turning in great performance on engines designed for them, so why not use it.
FYI my dad's SRT-8 6.1L is factory fill with mobil-1 0w40...wonder why the 5.7 got 5w20 dino like all other mopar standard daily driver cars?
NO 6.1L (whether MT or AT) has MDS. So that might be the key difference, what's odd is that his manual doesn't break out the MT 5.7, which also doesn't have MDS.
Even still, I can't believe that MDS is *so* demanding of a narrow vis range that it will work on 5w20 and not on 5w30. But as others have said many times, the 5w20s keep turning in great performance on engines designed for them, so why not use it.
I would run the Amsoil 0w-30, spend the extra coin. Also look into a decent fluid for the Tremic and the rear end.
I think I am going to order an RT this fall. Rode in an 08 SRT8 last fall at a Northeast Hemi Owners meet. Very nice car, actually one of the few with some soul, sick of the toyaccordaltima shaped appliance cars. As mentioned hold onto it. I would look into applying some good paint on the floors too, Eastwoods works great.
I think I am going to order an RT this fall. Rode in an 08 SRT8 last fall at a Northeast Hemi Owners meet. Very nice car, actually one of the few with some soul, sick of the toyaccordaltima shaped appliance cars. As mentioned hold onto it. I would look into applying some good paint on the floors too, Eastwoods works great.
Originally Posted By: FastSUV
Well I am sure the book opts for other oil weights...I bet 5w30 is in there based on your temperature chart in you manual. FYI my dad's SRT-8 6.1L is factory fill with mobil-1 0w40...wonder why the 5.7 got 5w20 dino like all other mopar standard daily driver cars?
That's the odd part. All my other vehicles have a temperature chart showing other viscocities that may be used. However, this Challenger RT does not. It just plainly states "5W20 must be used" and then has some blurb about the MDS system, which my 6 speed does NOT have.
If I had a chart with temperature range and viscosity there wouldn't be any question on this.
I live in middle TN, which has a fairly mild climate (lows in the 20s in the winter highs near 100 in the summer).
Well I am sure the book opts for other oil weights...I bet 5w30 is in there based on your temperature chart in you manual. FYI my dad's SRT-8 6.1L is factory fill with mobil-1 0w40...wonder why the 5.7 got 5w20 dino like all other mopar standard daily driver cars?
That's the odd part. All my other vehicles have a temperature chart showing other viscocities that may be used. However, this Challenger RT does not. It just plainly states "5W20 must be used" and then has some blurb about the MDS system, which my 6 speed does NOT have.
If I had a chart with temperature range and viscosity there wouldn't be any question on this.
I live in middle TN, which has a fairly mild climate (lows in the 20s in the winter highs near 100 in the summer).
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Originally Posted By: rg200amp
Originally Posted By: Speedy1975
Originally Posted By: Greaser
If it were my car I would use Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20 and Napa Gold filters.
In my experience, synthetics aren't worth the extra money. I ran Castrol GTX dino in my Accord for 10,000 miles and Black Stone said the oil could have gone longer. If Dino will go 10,000 why even bother with synthetic at twice the cost. My analysis from that oil change is on this site.
That is in one case. Trust me, if we all used dino for 10,000 miles, the junk yards would be filled 200 feet high.
Yes dino can get you as far as you want to go. I would use a 5w20 or 5w30.
Yeah, isn't 5k about the max the average Joe should go on dino without UOA to prove it can go longer? I figure 5k on dino is safe and even Mobil uses that as reference for their cheap dino oil so there must be something to it?
Originally Posted By: Speedy1975
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Speedy1975
Just bought a 2009 Challenger RT. It has the 5.7L Hemi V8 engine and 6 Speed Manual transmission.
Book says 5W20 oil, but keeps focusing on MDS as the reason for that oil. My car is a 6 speed and does not have MDS (cylinder shut off for gas mileage feature).
Congrats on the new Mopar!
This is just opinion, but here are my recommendations:
1) Run the recommended oil grade, but with these 5w20s I would definitely go the extra bucks for a top quality synthetic. My 5w20 of choice would be Mobil 1 Extended Performance, but Valvoline, Castrol, and pretty much all the others also make very good synthetics. Most of them are cheaper than M1 and some folks think they're better than M1, but I personally have had nothing but excellent results with M1.
2) If you want to run a different grade, go to a 5w30 but I would NOT go to a 10w30. I think that the thinner "cold" number is more important than the "hot" number, since virtually all of the engines that get 5w20 in the US get 5w30 in other markets and not 10w30. I personally would use synth in that grade too.
Why do I suggest the extra bucks for synthetic? Well, for an engine like the new Hemi in a car like a new Challenger which will retain tons of value and relatively soon will begin to appreciate in value again, don't scrimp. This is a very special car, its not a generic one-of-bazillions Hondoyotissan that you'll use up and throw away in a few years, so give it every benefit. But again, that's just what *I* would do- I honestly don't think you'd ever notice a difference on dino, other than possibly accumulating a few more internal deposits.
Good points. This is going to be a weekend only car, so it won't accumulate many miles. Maybe the synthetic is the way to go on this one since it'll pretty much be a once a year oil change.
Gotta think it over. I'm typically opposed to synthetics.
I am switching from syn once per year to dino every 6 months on my non-daily driver 4x4 that sits in the garage most of the time.
Originally Posted By: Speedy1975
Originally Posted By: Greaser
If it were my car I would use Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20 and Napa Gold filters.
In my experience, synthetics aren't worth the extra money. I ran Castrol GTX dino in my Accord for 10,000 miles and Black Stone said the oil could have gone longer. If Dino will go 10,000 why even bother with synthetic at twice the cost. My analysis from that oil change is on this site.
That is in one case. Trust me, if we all used dino for 10,000 miles, the junk yards would be filled 200 feet high.
Yes dino can get you as far as you want to go. I would use a 5w20 or 5w30.
Yeah, isn't 5k about the max the average Joe should go on dino without UOA to prove it can go longer? I figure 5k on dino is safe and even Mobil uses that as reference for their cheap dino oil so there must be something to it?
Originally Posted By: Speedy1975
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: Speedy1975
Just bought a 2009 Challenger RT. It has the 5.7L Hemi V8 engine and 6 Speed Manual transmission.
Book says 5W20 oil, but keeps focusing on MDS as the reason for that oil. My car is a 6 speed and does not have MDS (cylinder shut off for gas mileage feature).
Congrats on the new Mopar!
This is just opinion, but here are my recommendations:
1) Run the recommended oil grade, but with these 5w20s I would definitely go the extra bucks for a top quality synthetic. My 5w20 of choice would be Mobil 1 Extended Performance, but Valvoline, Castrol, and pretty much all the others also make very good synthetics. Most of them are cheaper than M1 and some folks think they're better than M1, but I personally have had nothing but excellent results with M1.
2) If you want to run a different grade, go to a 5w30 but I would NOT go to a 10w30. I think that the thinner "cold" number is more important than the "hot" number, since virtually all of the engines that get 5w20 in the US get 5w30 in other markets and not 10w30. I personally would use synth in that grade too.
Why do I suggest the extra bucks for synthetic? Well, for an engine like the new Hemi in a car like a new Challenger which will retain tons of value and relatively soon will begin to appreciate in value again, don't scrimp. This is a very special car, its not a generic one-of-bazillions Hondoyotissan that you'll use up and throw away in a few years, so give it every benefit. But again, that's just what *I* would do- I honestly don't think you'd ever notice a difference on dino, other than possibly accumulating a few more internal deposits.
Good points. This is going to be a weekend only car, so it won't accumulate many miles. Maybe the synthetic is the way to go on this one since it'll pretty much be a once a year oil change.
Gotta think it over. I'm typically opposed to synthetics.
I am switching from syn once per year to dino every 6 months on my non-daily driver 4x4 that sits in the garage most of the time.
Originally Posted By: FastSUV
Yeah, isn't 5k about the max the average Joe should go on dino without UOA to prove it can go longer? I figure 5k on dino is safe and even Mobil uses that as reference for their cheap dino oil so there must be something to it?
Well, the manual for the Honda Accord says to go 7500 miles and to only change the filter every other oil change. I have two Accords (4cyl and V6) and both say the same thing so I decided to give 10K a go after 5K analysis showed the oil was still in excellent shape. Even at 10K it was still OK, but 10K makes it easy to remember when to change the oil.
Yeah, isn't 5k about the max the average Joe should go on dino without UOA to prove it can go longer? I figure 5k on dino is safe and even Mobil uses that as reference for their cheap dino oil so there must be something to it?
Well, the manual for the Honda Accord says to go 7500 miles and to only change the filter every other oil change. I have two Accords (4cyl and V6) and both say the same thing so I decided to give 10K a go after 5K analysis showed the oil was still in excellent shape. Even at 10K it was still OK, but 10K makes it easy to remember when to change the oil.
Be honest with yourself, I guarantee you that even though it is gonna be your "weekend car" & not see many miles, you will drive it hard & flog it from time to time, as you should, how could you not with this incredible machine. It's like being in the lap of a incredible beautiful woman, your gonna drive it hard sometimes, how could you not! So do yourself a favor & put in a quality 5w-20 Synthetic, worth protecting her, isn't it!.....
Nothing but synthetic 5w20 in that jewel. Why even bother with dino? Who cares about the few extra dollars of syn in this application? Are you nuts?
BTW, did you go with the mopar orange? (JEALOUS,JEALOUS,JEALOUS)
BTW, did you go with the mopar orange? (JEALOUS,JEALOUS,JEALOUS)
Originally Posted By: hooperswish1
Nothing but synthetic 5w20 in that jewel. Why even bother with dino? Who cares about the few extra dollars of syn in this application? Are you nuts?
BTW, did you go with the mopar orange? (JEALOUS,JEALOUS,JEALOUS)
Yeah, it's Hemi Orange Pearl Coat.
I'm still not convinced synthetic is worth it. It's not so much the money, but the value of synthetic over all. I'm getting excellent results from Castrol dino oil. If it's doing it's thing, why bother with synthetic?
If I did do synthetic, it seems Penzoil PP is the way to go? I was thinking that or the new Castrol Synthetic. I always use Purolator PureOne oil filters as well.
Nothing but synthetic 5w20 in that jewel. Why even bother with dino? Who cares about the few extra dollars of syn in this application? Are you nuts?
BTW, did you go with the mopar orange? (JEALOUS,JEALOUS,JEALOUS)
Yeah, it's Hemi Orange Pearl Coat.
I'm still not convinced synthetic is worth it. It's not so much the money, but the value of synthetic over all. I'm getting excellent results from Castrol dino oil. If it's doing it's thing, why bother with synthetic?
If I did do synthetic, it seems Penzoil PP is the way to go? I was thinking that or the new Castrol Synthetic. I always use Purolator PureOne oil filters as well.
Originally Posted By: Speedy1975
Originally Posted By: hooperswish1
Nothing but synthetic 5w20 in that jewel. Why even bother with dino? Who cares about the few extra dollars of syn in this application? Are you nuts?
BTW, did you go with the mopar orange? (JEALOUS,JEALOUS,JEALOUS)
Yeah, it's Hemi Orange Pearl Coat.
I'm still not convinced synthetic is worth it. It's not so much the money, but the value of synthetic over all. I'm getting excellent results from Castrol dino oil. If it's doing it's thing, why bother with synthetic?
If I did do synthetic, it seems Penzoil PP is the way to go? I was thinking that or the new Castrol Synthetic. I always use Purolator PureOne oil filters as well.
So many people on this board "feel" better about using synthetics without ANY justification whatsoever. Do yourself a favor. Run a couple OCIs on dino and get a UOA. Then do another couple on synthetics with a UOA. If the synthetic looks better, you have a winner. If more people did this, some might find that about the ONLY thing synthetics are doing for them is making their pocketbooks lighter. Not all, but some...
Originally Posted By: hooperswish1
Nothing but synthetic 5w20 in that jewel. Why even bother with dino? Who cares about the few extra dollars of syn in this application? Are you nuts?
BTW, did you go with the mopar orange? (JEALOUS,JEALOUS,JEALOUS)
Yeah, it's Hemi Orange Pearl Coat.
I'm still not convinced synthetic is worth it. It's not so much the money, but the value of synthetic over all. I'm getting excellent results from Castrol dino oil. If it's doing it's thing, why bother with synthetic?
If I did do synthetic, it seems Penzoil PP is the way to go? I was thinking that or the new Castrol Synthetic. I always use Purolator PureOne oil filters as well.
So many people on this board "feel" better about using synthetics without ANY justification whatsoever. Do yourself a favor. Run a couple OCIs on dino and get a UOA. Then do another couple on synthetics with a UOA. If the synthetic looks better, you have a winner. If more people did this, some might find that about the ONLY thing synthetics are doing for them is making their pocketbooks lighter. Not all, but some...
Neat car...But it is a Hemi by name only....It has a pent head design....but I would still take it....
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