2009 Tacoma Q's

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Picking up a new 09 4.0L V6 Tacoma this weekend. My plan is to leave the factory oil in there until about 1k miles and do a oil change. Then do the next one 4k later at the 5k mark. And do them every 5k from there on out. Question is do you guys think at 1k it's to early for synthetics? I've been running 5-30 PP in the wifes Suzuki Aerio 2.3L with fantastic results; first change was very blk but the 2nd one is staying clean much longer. MPG's are better than the car has ever seen. So I'd like to run the PP in the Taco too. but should I do a regular dino change until 10k? And if I do dino changes, Pennzoil or Valvoline?
 
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I had a similar plan. I changed FF out at 1000 put dino in again until 5000 then I put the PP5w30 in. Then I change every 5000 with PP5w30. I don't burn a drop in my 09 Corolla.
 
Good to know. I might do 1x Dino change... I really want to make sure the rings seat. I know on our Suzuki they had issues with the rings not seating unless you drove it very hard. Dealer issued a TSB or something saying baby it for 500 miles and then Floor it on entering Hwys and drive it hard for 1k miles, then drive normal. So I might do a dino to be safe... Pennzoil or valvoline?
 
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Originally Posted By: Toy4x4runner
Picking up a new 09 4.0L V6 Tacoma this weekend. My plan is to leave the factory oil in there until about 1k miles and do a oil change. Then do the next one 4k later at the 5k mark. And do them every 5k from there on out. Question is do you guys think at 1k it's to early for synthetics? I've been running 5-30 PP in the wifes Suzuki Aerio 2.3L with fantastic results; first change was very blk but the 2nd one is staying clean much longer. MPG's are better than the car has ever seen. So I'd like to run the PP in the Taco too. but should I do a regular dino change until 10k? And if I do dino changes, Pennzoil or Valvoline?

I went the full 5K on the intial fill and then another 4K on the second fill. At 9K i went to synthetic...93K miles later not a single drop or any burn.
 
Orignally it was 5w30 but a TSB has been posted that 5w20 can be used in the GR series.Our engine is designated 1GRFE. You can run whats on the cap and owners manual. THis is my first run of 5w20 in this truck and it runs fine and I have no complaints about noise or conuption so I will get a UOA at the end and see how its holding up. I have been getting some of my best mileage on this OCI.
 
5000 mile OCI useing PP will get you EVERYTHING that motor has to offer!
I would feel comfortable useing a 7000 mile OCI as well.

Your plans are good!!!
 
I went 1,500 miles on our 08 Tacoma 2.7L, then Motorcraft 5W-20 for 3,000 miles, then to Mobil-1. Why the Motorcraft? It plainly states it's hydrocracked, so I was pretty sure it was dino oil. I'm an old fashioned kind of guy who wanted to be sure the rings were seated before going synthetic. I believe you've chosen well to go with the PP. Those 4.0's, like all Toyota engines, are truly world class.
 
Synthetic oil has no effect on ring seating. It does not matter whether you use synthetic or conventional oil to break-in an engine.

Enough with the myths, this is BITOG.
 
I have an 06 with the 4.0 and I started with Redline 5w-30 and Mobil-1 filters. I am now using PP 5W-20. I am tempted to go back to RL but staying with the recommended 5W-20.
 
You can run the PP when you do the 1K OC if you want and it will be fine. No need to go 10K before swapping to synthetic. Penzoil Platinum or Valvoline Synpower are two very good oils and either will do fine. Critic is right that is an old wives tale that you have to run X# of miles to seat rings. Your plan is what I generally do with my vehicles.
 
On my son's 2007 V6 Tacoma 4x4 with the 1GR-FE engine we ran original oil for 3k. Have been using Synpower 10W-30 ever since with no complaints. 5k intervals. UOA showed a TBN of 2.1 after 4500 miles over 90 days at 25k. I thought this was low. Seems like the 1GR-FE engine was kinda hard on the oil. I am running 5W-30 SynPower now (like the manual recommends) and will do UOA. Will be interesting to see how the 5W-30 compares to 10W-30 SynPower.
 
I second the opinion of going right for the PP if that's what you're going to use after break in. I also second the notion of not babying the engine during break in. And I wouldn't wait 500 miles to "get after it", either. Accelerating hard with plenty of rpm for short periods and not holding any one rpm range for extended periods have served me well. Good luck and enjoy your new truck!

REDDOG
 
Steve- I agree. I could probably get away with any brand SM and a good filter. I've always been a buy what's on sale kind of guy, and pick about my oil filters. But on our Suzuki Aerio, when I switched to PP... the MPG's have never been better. Honestly, way better. only thing that changed was the oil. Went from averaging about 28mpg to the tank and now it's around 30. Don't want to knock on wood but I dont want to change a thing if that car is averaging 30 to the tank consistently. That's the only reason I want to use PP in the Tacoma. And the price of PP in a 5qt jug at Wallyworld is $23, which aint bad relatively speaking. The first oil change with PP in the Suki turned black very quickly. This second change is staying cleaner much longer.
 
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I have a 2006 Toy 4x4 x cab 4 cyl manual ,I have run 10w-30 5w-30 5w-20 dino oil 0w-30 green German Castrol and 5w/30 Penzoil PP .There has not been any noticable mpg increase between the different oils. There was a noticeacle increase at around 5,000 miles,which is due to the engine etc being finally broke in. All energy conserving oils have to give the same mpgs as a Poa syn base oil .So I can't see how people are getting the mpg increases they are claiming. I calculate the mpgs by the gallons per fill and divide by miles method and also have a Scangauge to compare.
 
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