Best Grease for Suspesion Components

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I have to replace my Upper & Lower Ball Joints, Idler & Pitmann Arms plus my Inner & Outer Tie Rods. I was wondering what you guys would recommend for a quality long lasting #2 EP GC-LB Synthetic grease. I've looked at RL CV2, Amsoil GHD, Chevron Delo and all I've basically done is confuse myself so I'm sure you grease guru's out there would know of a good product with excellent water washout resistance. These parts are on my 02 2500HD Chevy 4x4. Thanks
 
Moog told me that any high quality chassis grease was fine, but they used to recommend a moly type grease.

The Moog endlinks I bought were prefilled with some type of moly grease, so I'll continue to use Valvoline Moly based grease in mine.
 
I really like the Amsoil GHD grease and that is what I'm using on my Jeep. It has all of the moly you need for the automotive/light truck application.
 
So basically a Moly Based grease would be the ticket? It rains a lot up here so I have a concern about water washout. Thanks for the replies.
 
Simple answer yes.

Long answer: The moly is a great EP additive for grease, and the lithium complex base and synthetic oil base works well for your water washout concerns. As I said, I use this grease (the Amsoil GHD) in my Jeep here in Wisconsin for the following reasons, good EP protection, water washout, protection from corrosion due to all the salt we use in the winter, cold and high temp protection.
 
Does the Amsoil GHD work well for off road applications like running through mud and water too?

I have a suspension lift kit on my jeep made by Rubincon Express. the joints seem to always need greasing. I'm running a red type lithium grease now.
 
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Originally Posted By: Johnny
Yes, the GHD would be an excellent grease for your application.


Then that's what I'll start looking for. Jeep is in the shop for a new control arm mount right now.

Does AZ carry the GHD?
 
I seriously doubt you'll find Amsoil GHD in Auto Zone, at least around here you won't. I got mine from Gary Allen with an assortment of Amsoil goodies.

Frank D
 
H8,

I have used the Amsoil grease for a while before it ran out. Really helped quite down the poly bushings and control arms on my Jeep. Stuff didn't wash out when wheeling in the mud, but I made sure to pump a lil into all the nipples to flush out the grit after a muddin' adventure.

The Schaeffer's moly grease works equally as well.
 
Belray waterproof is the only grease that I've found that doesn't washout on my dirtbike rear linkage and head bearings. Had poor luck with anything lithium based, despite being marketed as marine, waterproof, or whatever.
 
The GHD is in my chassis gun right now that does mostly GM vehicles. I also have my powersport gun that I run the GWR water resistant grease in. Great for ATV, snowmobiles and the boat trailer.
 
The best chassis grease I know of is marketed by CAT.
They use a range of bases, depending on application and environment, from mineral to syn and use a Calcium Sulphonate thickener which reduces/eliminates water washout far, far better than any lithium complex soap and use 5% MoS2 rather than 3%.

I'd love to use it, but admit to using Castrol LMM for years, (Li Complex, 3% MoS2) and it's worked fine for 4WD use.
 
Haven't heard much about the redline, nobody uses it?

I'm wandering what the price difference would be for RL and Amsoil?
 
The Red Line is really not that good of a chassis grease. It's made more for CV joints. I tried it for the front suspension on my Jeep but it did not seem to last that long under that application. I am now using the Amsoil GHD grease and am very pleased with it.
 
I got around to greasing the King Pins on my E-150 along with the drag link. I did the ball joints and front end on my Aerostar as well. I used the Amsoil GHD Grease and did notice it seemed to have more body and was thicker than the Mobil 1 grease I've used in the past. It wasn't dripping out of the gun either. My initial feelings are that it's a good product and I will continue to use it.

Next brake job I will use the Amsoil 2000 grease for the wheel bearings, but that's a long way off.

Frank D
 
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