Oil for NV 242 transfercase.

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Why should i need to use ATF+4 in my transfer case?
Its an all manual one so slick shifting capabilites
for an electric control isnt necessary.
Why cant i use lets say an 75W-90 syn GL4 or 5?
Why you may ask..well ATF+4 is expensive and difficult to obtain in sweden and ive got a really good price on the mentioned alternatives-getting em in a "big rig" outlet.(20 L) and im going to use the GL5 in my axels.
Is there a mixing risk between case and auto trans?
Or shouldnt i bother and just use the recommended ATF+4?

-98 Durango 360/ 46RE/ NV 242
 
I don't see why you couldn't use a lighter GL-4 in that case. Something in the 9-14 cSt@100° range.

Just drain it well and you need not worry about a mixing issue.
 
Some gear oils can go after yellow metals that may be in a transfer case or transmission. That is one reason that ATF is specified. Also, GL-4 will seriously thicken in cold weather. I'd stick with the ATF as recommended.
 
A modern synthetic GL-4 won't attack "yellow metals". A synthetic oil in the 75W-80/85 range (even the NEW 90 range) should not present a cold temp viscosity problem in a manual transfer case.
 
You do want to pick an oil with a cold temp viscosity not TOO much higher than the spec'd ATF as most of the NV's use an oil pump that doesn't like to move thick, cold oil. I've had to rebuild many NV chaindrives because of improper oil choice.

You can use a gear oil, just select one with good low temp specs. A synthetic is probably the way to go. I'd imagine that specailty oils are going to be hard to get in Sweden as well, but something like High Temp ATF from RedLine is a good oil for a transfercase spec'd for ATF.
 
Use any ATF. You might be able to use a lighter hydraulic fluid. ATF is a coolant that has some lubricating properties (for the most part).
 
Do i have a oil pump in my stick shifted case?
If so- why?
So it seems like the ATF+4 route is the safest so far..
Maybe the case doesent need any better?
 
Use the ATF or a 5w-30 type manual transmission fluid.

Transfer Case Unlimited rebuilds these things for Jeeps and they recommend 5w-30 synthetic oil or even better a MTF.

I use Amsoil Universal ATF in my 00 Durango and 02 WJ but will be swapping MTF in them next time.

Do not use 75W-90 gear oil, you will regret that. some on Jeeps Unlimited and the DOC and have immediatly removed it once they found it was too viscous and made it impossible to engage disengage.
 
Originally Posted By: VNTS
Use the ATF or a 5w-30 type manual transmission fluid.

Transfer Case Unlimited rebuilds these things for Jeeps and they recommend 5w-30 synthetic oil or even better a MTF.

I use Amsoil Universal ATF in my 00 Durango and 02 WJ but will be swapping MTF in them next time.

Do not use 75W-90 gear oil, you will regret that. some on Jeeps Unlimited and the DOC and have immediatly removed it once they found it was too viscous and made it impossible to engage disengage.


I agree with this. Don't use and old 15+ cSt, 90.
 
That X-fer case is loaded with tiny needle bearings and a chain , It needs a very thin oil to properly lubricate them. Regular Dexron 3 should be adequate.

Don't put "gear" oil in it. Might be ok with a 0w-20 or 5w-20 though.
 
Ok..
I´ll take the easy way and just use ATF+4.
Pricey but I love the lettering of the bottle.
 
I've been using RP Synchromax in two Ford trucks with Borg-Warner t-cases. I didn't notice any difference on the new truck ('05 F-150) but the old truck ('86F-250HD) was notably easier to shift. It's slightly thicker than the factory Mercon V (7.3 cSt @ 100C) but that's Ok for a t-case, even with a pump. I have use BG Synchro-Shift in a wide variety of t-cases in the past as well, with noticeably improved results over Dex III (cooler temps & easier shifting)

Synchromax Specs:

7.7 cSt @ 100C
35.3 cSt @ 40C
800 cP @ -20C
2000 cP @ -30C
6000 cP @ -40C
VI 196
Flash 450
Pour -40
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
What would Amsoil Universal, RP ATF, or Redline C+ have cost in Sweeden?


I'd wager $30/liter+/- ..but that might be near what he pays anyway for synth lubes.
 
Jim might be best able to answer this.
How many 4x4's spec ATF these days over there in the t/case ?

It so nice to just be able to use a real gear oil in a t/case that just uses nice big roller or taper roller bearings and gears.
grin2.gif

Even our Nissan which uses a chain drive part time t/case can use either/or ATF/75w-90
 
Originally Posted By: tdi-rick
Jim might be best able to answer this.
How many 4x4's spec ATF these days over there in the t/case ?

It so nice to just be able to use a real gear oil in a t/case that just uses nice big roller or taper roller bearings and gears.
grin2.gif

Even our Nissan which uses a chain drive part time t/case can use either/or ATF/75w-90


And you see how many days OZ do you see where the temp runs in the range of -20*F to 20*F
smirk2.gif
? I drive Ford 4WD trucks that use the chain drive in the transfer case. The thinner fluids do help in cold climates. I agree ATF is not the best and a synthetic synchromesh tranny fluid is much better. But the car companies being "frugal penny pinchers" will use a fluid they are already using in great quantity, even if it's not the best for the application. Luckily we have BITOG to help us do the best for our vehicles
grin2.gif
.

Whimsey
 
It was a legit question !
My old Jeeps using the Dana 20 t/case used 80w-90.
Big ol gears and taper roller bearings.
My Land Rover Defender uses big ol gears and taper roller bearings too, just has a centre diff jammed in there as well.

All the older 4x4's I used to play with, Land Crusers, Land Rovers and Jeeps all used gear driven t/cases.
I take it all the stuff produced by the Big 3 all use chain drives and planetary gear reduction now ?
 
I just serviced my friends 2003 Jeep TJ with about 48,000 miles on it. The T-case fluid (original ATF+4) came out black and had the consistency of water! It is possible it was mixed with some water not knowing the history of the vehicle. I just filled it with some more factory fluid for now. I like the idea of running Redline High Temp ATF.
 
Here's another idea. You can also use a trans/hydraulic fluid for tractors. They are around a 20 grade (a little thicker than ATF) but they have a lot more HP type additives for tractor geartrains. Some might not be suitable for a lot of bright parts (brass). I've used it in a pinch and there are some gui=ys I know that swear by it in chain drive t-cases. I'd be afraid to use motor oil.. not enough HP additives. A really low vis syn 75W90....maybe in hot weather. I know someone who used Amsoil in the Borg Warner of a mid-90s Range Rover driven mostly in the desert. Not sure what the long term effects were but short term, it was fine.In Range Rovers, those BWs just fried the fluid to the point of really stinking. Found that out doing many 30K services back when I was one of the few factory-trained LR techs here in the USA.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Originally Posted By: artificialist
What would Amsoil Universal, RP ATF, or Redline C+ have cost in Sweeden?


I'd wager $30/liter+/- ..but that might be near what he pays anyway for synth lubes.


Havent got a clue and i havent access to´em either!
AS for a good 75w-90 syn GL5 and ATF+4 there are dealers near by....Im also a "beliver" in ATF+4 when it comes to atf fluids-
after all they are "quality restorers in a bottle-hehe"
But the use of a tractor fluid-well that made me think. I´m after all a very small farmer so maybe i try "Agrol multi" can be used in anything from turbodiesels to hydrostatic transes with wet brakes.Have a large bottle for my Ford tractor somewhere.
I´ve also considered ATF+4 diluted with the GL5 oil to lets say 25% but now i´m making my own witchbreed.
Keep em coming..
 
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