Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum???

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Originally Posted By: 06VtecV6
Originally Posted By: blueiedgod
Originally Posted By: 06VtecV6
Originally Posted By: blueiedgod
Originally Posted By: 06VtecV6
I can tell it revs higher not due some butt dyno but looking at the RPMs and seeing that with full syn, the car revs at around 2500 RPMs at the same speed(around 80 mph) and with syn blends, it revs at 2000-2100 rpms and the power felt the same as in it would rev faster with the lower rpm and rev slower at the higher RPM with full syns.


I am not completley knocking down your theory, but if your engine revs at different RPM's at the same speed before and after an oil change, I would check the transmission. Unless you have a CVT tranny (which by the vehicle in your signature, you don't) You are looking at a slipping tranny. The gear ratios are fixed and do not adjust based on the engine output. If you are cruising in 5th OD at 2500 RPM before the oil change and at 2000 RPM after the oil change at the same speed, your tranny is toast.


Ah cork it. My car is super sensitive, that's all. It does this kinda stuff all the time. heh

You wanna put money where your pie consumer is? You say my tranny is toast, right doc? Well then how many miles do 'i' have then? :> We can do it by miles, months or a combo of both, take yer pick.. And how much are we betting? (Fyi: I am at 42,700 roughly miles). Go ahead < > make my day and new year!

If you don't wanna wager money, we can simply do it for your pride and soul on BITOG. That might be more 'priceless' !


I don't know if you have a V6 with automatic (cough, girly, cough), although Honda did make the V6 with 6 spd in the coupe and sedan for the previous generation...

If you used anything other than Honda ATF Z-1 in that slush box, then yes, your tranny is toast. No matter how tight and sensitive Honda may be, there simply no way that the engine would rev differently at the same speed and gear just because of the oil.

But, I don't own a Honda with Automatic, which kinid of defies logic, since Honda makes the best revving engines, and automtics kill any kind of advantage you get out of the high revving engine, so I can't be 100% sure. I just know that by design, an engine and non-CVT tranny will rev at the same RPM at a given speed in a given gear, regardless of what is in the crankcase.

If you have a manual shifted Honda V6, first of all, more props to you. Second, if you see different RPM's at the same speed in the same gear, then you are looking at oil leaking onto the clutch, or just a slipping clutch.


I guess I would have to change my oil back to pp and get on the freeway and demonstrate to everyone that 'Look, see the RPms at 2500 @ 80 mph??' Then drain it and put what I use now, the CP stuff and say 'look, see my rpms at 2100 to 2200 @ 80 mph??' I couldn't even make this type of stuff up people, as you all knooooooow, I am a serious newb and post some pretty wild stuff (although not at the level of Merkava.. ;0) Thanks for posting. I take it you had a happy new year. Regards.



200-300 rpms could just be your foot or which part of the 80mph mark you are on when you looked at it
 
Originally Posted By: blueiedgod
Automatics... who cares, they are for girls anyway.
LOL.gif



5/6 speeds impress high school girls, autos win races

with that said I would only have a slush box in an all out race car
 
I am running PP in a Honda, Toyota & GMC right now. Runs excellent in all 3. For the BOGO price break PP is my choice.
 
Originally Posted By: dorkiedoode
Originally Posted By: blueiedgod


If you used anything other than Honda ATF Z-1 in that slush box, then yes, your tranny is toast.


are you so sure? is there any evidence of this? maybe you can try convincing people in the ATF, Differential, Trans, Brake, P/S section that Z-1 is the only way to go.


As far as I know, Honda vehicles really prefer Honda fluids.

ATF, Power Steering, and DPF fluids should be exlusivley Honda.

There were at least two people on HondaSUV.com who had Tranny failures from using Amsoil's supposedly Honda compatible fluid. When they approached Amsoil about the guarantee, Amsoil asked for fluid sample. After analyzing it, Amsoil declined coverage stating that the fluid has not broken down. Who cares if the fluid has not broken down, the tranny DID!!! One guy ended up replacing the fluid with Honda ATF, and then dropped it off at Honda. They shrugged their shoulders in disbelief, but covered it under warranty.

Coolant, I use Honda only. honda water pumps are sensitive to silicates, which act as abrasives, and make them leak. By the way, new Honda coolant is blue

As a safety, I also use Honda brake fluid. The price difference between premium fluid at the parts store and the Honda fluid is negligible.

I have had my share of Honda products: 1985 Civic DX, 1987 Accord LXi, 1988 Prelude, 1999 Civic EX, 2001 CR-V SE, 2002 Civic Si, 2005 CR-V EX, along with 1983 Honda Magna V45, and Honda power equipment.

When I gave the Prelude to my sister while she was away in college, she took it to a "mechanic" who put Dextron (or whatever he thought it needed) in the Power Steering system. It started leaking like a sieve. I replaced the fluid with Honda PSF, and the leak went away.

If you take good care of a Honda, she will serve faithfully for years to come. The 1985 Civic had 250,000 miles when I sold her for $1600 in 1995.
 
Originally Posted By: 06VtecV6

....the only thing thats hooey is that you dont (and might not ever) know that everything is tighter in a Japanese car...with whatever you got..and that's why there's no need to go Korean et al.


Oh please. I am a Mechanical Engineer and I Know Hondas very well... let alone the way a tranny works. There is no way RPMs change due to oil. Your clinging to this tripe shows you are clueless. What does Korean have to do with anything? Grow up...
 
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One thing to think about Double V is in Taxi's there is tons of idle time. Some areas under the valve cover recieve only splash lube and it your idling along at a lower oil pressure in a high heat environment it certainly is a way for varnish to form.

That guy with the Honda is crazy probably kicked it out of OD without even knowing it.

Going to switch to PP soon in the Envoy, has a bit of cold clacking I like to cure.

Rabbit already gets dealer syn. which is fine by me, won't be mine forever!
 
Mobil 1 and PP are the EXACT same price around here. So cost would not be a factor for deciding in favor of PP. Even though I have a 21 year old VW (237,000 miles) that has been running exclusively on Penzoil since new, I run Mobil 1 in my newer vehicles.

Besides, how much of a price difference could there be? I don't understand people wanting to save such little money. Get the oil you really want.
 
I have read all the posts and have 1 comment. I was looking at whether I should change from M1 to PP. I have a '99 Chrysler 300m with 278,000 miles on it that I bought in '01 w/38k on it and have used EXCLUSIVELY M1 extended life. It doesn't burn oil or smoke and I use about 1 qt between oil changes. BTW, I change oil every 10k with this oil.

I just bought an '08 Impala with the 3.5 and am using the same oil in it. I drove to Atlanta from Indy at speeds of 75 and 80mph and averaged 29.9 mpg.

Price aside, why should I switch to PP?
 
The reason some switch from M1 to PP is money, you can buy PP for less specially when it is on sale. M1 is rarely on sale, even when it is on sale the price per quart still more than $4. For PP, you may be able to buy it on sale for less than $3/qt. Both oils are good for reasonable OCI of about 8-10k miles, why pay more for no better protection ?
 
Originally Posted By: rarert
I have read all the posts and have 1 comment. I was looking at whether I should change from M1 to PP. I have a '99 Chrysler 300m with 278,000 miles on it that I bought in '01 w/38k on it and have used EXCLUSIVELY M1 extended life. It doesn't burn oil or smoke and I use about 1 qt between oil changes. BTW, I change oil every 10k with this oil.

I just bought an '08 Impala with the 3.5 and am using the same oil in it. I drove to Atlanta from Indy at speeds of 75 and 80mph and averaged 29.9 mpg.

Price aside, why should I switch to PP?



I don't think Mobil 1 Extended Life was available in 2001...
 
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Stick with what is and has worked well for you. I see no reason to change brands. Some of us BITOGs think it is not wise to switch brands late in a motors life unless for a particular reason.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
The reason some switch from M1 to PP is money, you can buy PP for less specially when it is on sale. M1 is rarely on sale, even when it is on sale the price per quart still more than $4. For PP, you may be able to buy it on sale for less than $3/qt. Both oils are good for reasonable OCI of about 8-10k miles, why pay more for no better protection ?


I have not seen PP on sale that cheap for a long time. Where are you finding it?
 
Maybe now with Mobil's allocation problems Pennzoil will wake up and get 0w-xx oils on the shelves here. That is the reason I am using Mobil 1 0W-20, because PP is nowhere to be found around here.

Frank D
 
Pennzoil prices went up especially at wal-mart if you were doing well on mobil 1 stick with it i have only used pennzoil in all my cars and trucks with no problems but now i am changing to conoco phillips which is the maker of motorcraft at least i think it still is , we use that at the shop and its good oil
 
When an engine revs higher at any speed with a different oil it is because of the position of your foot on the gas pedal or a transmission problem (slipping) could be other things too but not the oil
 
Just got some PP 5-20 and prefer the greater density vs. M1 5-20. Prefer the PP "feel" better than M1 EP 5-20 that I also tried. Subjective but my 02.
 
There is not really good price for PP right now. In the past year, PP was on sale with BOGO or $2-3 rebate a quart 2-3 times a year. I bought 2 cases of PP last year for $0.49/qt after rebate. I have a stash of more than 80 quarts of various brands, for now I would not buy any synthetic for more than $2/qt or dino for more than $1/qt.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Stick with what is and has worked well for you. I see no reason to change brands. Some of us BITOGs think it is not wise to switch brands late in a motors life unless for a particular reason.

I love these old wife's tale's . I have changed brands according to whatever was on sale for about the last 35 years . Changed over from conventional to Synthetic with over 75k on two different vehicles . [censored] , I even use FRAM filters . Have NEVER had an oil related failure of any kind . You guys crack me up .
 
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