Best 4 cycle small engine oil for any price.

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Probably a better way to look at the data is by viscosity:

The Amsoil SAE 10W-30 ASE is best in class.

10W-40 MX4T M-1/15W-40 Amsoil in this class.

M-1 15W-50 EP and V-Twin/Redline 15W-50 in this class.

Redline 10W-30 and 10W-40 are 1400 phos & 1400 Zn!

There are a lot of great oils out there...I just like a synthetic with a ZDDP in the 1200-1600 ppm range for a mower engine.


FYI...all Zn and Phos figures I posted are in ppm.
 
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I thought that I would add something I saw. On another forum, I read of someone who has an old Allis 616 Lawn Tractor. The engine is an Onan CCK.

This Tractor gets has been getting an annual oil change of Mobil 1 20W50 (V Twin). The hour meter is just shy of 11,000 hours this summer. The engine is still in "great shape" and the tractor is used to cut his 2 acres every week.

So I guess using a 30 wt oil isn't as important as we all thought it was. I know this 20W50 motorcycle oil costs close to $10/qt., but 11,000 hours on one small engine is impressive. So V Twin gets my vote. Can anyone top those hours?
 
Man thats pretty good info. I should of considered GC vs Amsoil small engine formula. Four qrts will last me 10 years or so.
 
Any non-starburst Mobil 1 like HM 10W-30, HM 10W-40, or 5W-40 TDT. The 15W-50 would be ok in constant HD service in high ambient temps. The Mobil1 motorcycle oils would undoubtedly do great, but are about twice the cost. Any HDEO 15W-40 or RTS 5W-40. Maxlife 10W-40. These would be my retail store choices.

Starburst oils just have too little anti-wear chemistry and lowish viscosity for HD air-cooled use. For winter air-cooled use, the lower viscosity choices would obviously be better. GC comes to mind as a good choice for most temps.
 
I believe after looking over all the data; Redline 10W-30 Blue Label High Performance and Motul 10W-30 are among the best synthetics out there ...despite the cost as this is a non-issue on this thread.

M-1 MX4T and V-Twin are great if the circumstances mandate it's use.
 
Somebody just give me a result, I am going crazy following this thread, What is the very best oil for my new 17.5 HP B & S lawn tractor. I will not be able to sleep until I know
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........or I will just use what is left in the gallon of my Rotella T synthetic 5W-40 for the five hour oil change and pray it works.

Seriously, I have used Rotella T Syn 5-40 in everything I have that is air cooled, and felt good about......until this dang thread.
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I appreciate the work, and the food for thought. I may have to file suit for my new ulcer.....
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Cmarti...



I did many uoa's on a 16HP Briggs V-Twin...

-Redline 20W-50... Xero wear numbers.

-M-1 20W-50 V-Twin... Zero wear numbers.

-Motul 15W-50... Zero wear numbers.

-Mobil-1 15W-50 Gold Cap.... Zero wear numbers.

-Amsoil 20W-50 Servere Service racing synthetic. Not tested.

-Amsoil 10W-30 SAE 30...the engine was quite noisy.

My findings were that Motul had a bit too much "slickness" as the engine was running a bit too fast. The Asmoil Severe Service 20W-50 was way "too slick" the engine surged back and forth.

M-1 V-Twin may be a bit too heavy in viscosity but perhaps good for the bigger commercial larger engines or used in mixing.

I found that M-1 15W-50 Gold Cap made the engine run the smoothest. Very predictable and for your engine a great choice.

I am currently testing a 50/50 mix of M-1 15W-50 Gold Cap and Motul 15W-50 as I have a couple qts left. So far so good. Maybe I will try V-Twin and Motul?

Trust me...15W-50 M-1 GoldCap is a winner and if you can use a M-1 oil filter like I do the oil stays extremely clean.

Don't knock using M-1 GoldCap in there until you try it.

Temps. in my area vary from 60*F spring and fall and up to 100*F in summer.

GoldCap is easy to attain...and works great.


Also, Amsoil's High Performance 10W-30 is a stouter formulation than the small engine 10W-30. Both TBN and ZDDDP levels are higher.

Hope that helps.

So you want the best for you?

I know you will be happy with 15W-50 GoldCap..!
 
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I poured over the data again.

20W-50 is on it's own most likely too heavy. M-1 V-Twin with the 1800ppm of ZDDP is a great source to mix with another oil. Like with Amsoil SAE 30wt 1:1 in a tractor.


The M-1 GoldCap 15w-50 is outstanding and easy to attain. Tried and true with me. I am as I mentioned previously; mixing Motul 15W-50 with GoldCap 15W-50 1:1. Tractor is totally vibration free. This is for tractors only.

The very best oil for a push mower is a tie between Amsoil High Performance 10W-30 or 5W-30 and Redline 10W-30 and 5W-30.

Motul is a great Ester product to mix with if you want a dose of magnesium and a fully ester product mixed at 1:1.


So I have refined my statements and this is based on products that are tied and true in 17 years of experience with tractors.
 
Great thread!

I'm using CI-4 RTS 5w-40 in all my air-cooled engines: 6hp Kawi engine on my 21" mower, 16HP V-twin Kawi and also my 2 Honda air cooled engines a GX180 and a GX200

I have been tempted to use M1 HM 10w-30 but I'll probably go with M1 10w-40 HM when my CI-4 RTS stock runs out.

Now lets talk cold .............. what is the absolute best oil to use in my Tecumseh Snow King snow thrower engine on my new Toro single stage? To complicate matters the engine does not have a throttle. Just stuck at full throttle. Is RTS too thick for this engine?

FYI manual calls for 5w-30, 10w-30 and even 30wt at temp the snow thrower will never see.
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I have used M1 10w 40 HM in an ATV that weeped from a seal around the jug. It worked well and no wet clutch problems. I think M1 and Rotella T synthetic are terrific for small air cooled engines. Although any oil of sufficient viscosity changed frequently probably works. It just is not as satisfying if you are anal about your equipment.
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Originally Posted By: Pete591
Cmarti...



I did many uoa's on a 16HP Briggs V-Twin...

-Redline 20W-50... Xero wear numbers.

-M-1 20W-50 V-Twin... Zero wear numbers.

-Motul 15W-50... Zero wear numbers.

-Mobil-1 15W-50 Gold Cap.... Zero wear numbers.

-Amsoil 20W-50 Servere Service racing synthetic. Not tested.

-Amsoil 10W-30 SAE 30...the engine was quite noisy.

My findings were that Motul had a bit too much "slickness" as the engine was running a bit too fast. The Asmoil Severe Service 20W-50 was way "too slick" the engine surged back and forth.

M-1 V-Twin may be a bit too heavy in viscosity but perhaps good for the bigger commercial larger engines or used in mixing.

I found that M-1 15W-50 Gold Cap made the engine run the smoothest. Very predictable and for your engine a great choice.

I am currently testing a 50/50 mix of M-1 15W-50 Gold Cap and Motul 15W-50 as I have a couple qts left. So far so good. Maybe I will try V-Twin and Motul?

Trust me...15W-50 M-1 GoldCap is a winner and if you can use a M-1 oil filter like I do the oil stays extremely clean.

Don't knock using M-1 GoldCap in there until you try it.

Temps. in my area vary from 60*F spring and fall and up to 100*F in summer.

GoldCap is easy to attain...and works great.


Also, Amsoil's High Performance 10W-30 is a stouter formulation than the small engine 10W-30. Both TBN and ZDDDP levels are higher.

Hope that helps.

So you want the best for you?

I know you will be happy with 15W-50 GoldCap..!




Pete, wouldn't 15W 50 would be a struggle at start up with this mornings temp at about 21 degrees (even for a synthetic) Even in summer, no worries about the 50 Wt? I guess the UAO speak for themselves.
 
Originally Posted By: Cmarti
Originally Posted By: Pete591
Cmarti...



I did many uoa's on a 16HP Briggs V-Twin...

-Redline 20W-50... Xero wear numbers.

-M-1 20W-50 V-Twin... Zero wear numbers.

-Motul 15W-50... Zero wear numbers.

-Mobil-1 15W-50 Gold Cap.... Zero wear numbers.

-Amsoil 20W-50 Servere Service racing synthetic. Not tested.

-Amsoil 10W-30 SAE 30...the engine was quite noisy.

My findings were that Motul had a bit too much "slickness" as the engine was running a bit too fast. The Asmoil Severe Service 20W-50 was way "too slick" the engine surged back and forth.

M-1 V-Twin may be a bit too heavy in viscosity but perhaps good for the bigger commercial larger engines or used in mixing.

I found that M-1 15W-50 Gold Cap made the engine run the smoothest. Very predictable and for your engine a great choice.

I am currently testing a 50/50 mix of M-1 15W-50 Gold Cap and Motul 15W-50 as I have a couple qts left. So far so good. Maybe I will try V-Twin and Motul?

Trust me...15W-50 M-1 GoldCap is a winner and if you can use a M-1 oil filter like I do the oil stays extremely clean.

Don't knock using M-1 GoldCap in there until you try it.

Temps. in my area vary from 60*F spring and fall and up to 100*F in summer.

GoldCap is easy to attain...and works great.


Also, Amsoil's High Performance 10W-30 is a stouter formulation than the small engine 10W-30. Both TBN and ZDDDP levels are higher.

Hope that helps.

So you want the best for you?

I know you will be happy with 15W-50 GoldCap..!




Pete, wouldn't 15W 50 would be a struggle at start up with this mornings temp at about 21 degrees (even for a synthetic) Even in summer, no worries about the 50 Wt? I guess the UAO speak for themselves.


In doing UOA's in a 16HP V-Twin 20W-50 is too high.

15W-50 M-1 works well becaus after 50 hours it is sheared down a full grade +.

Now a small engine like 3.5-9 HP I use ASE Amsoil like the rest fo you guys!

Perhaps even Amsoil High Performance.

I just have a good feeling about being on target with 15W-50 on the V-Twins.

...No I am going to hide!
 
What easy to locate oil(s) with respect to season, would be best for a 10 HP Tecumseh HM-100 on a Coleman 5000 Watt/6250 Watt-Peak Generator. This is one of the cheap non-inverter type that runs at 3600 RPM regardles of load. Minimum winter air temp. -22 F. Maximum summer air temp. 101 F.

Note: the manual says to not use any 40 oil.

Curently using Castrol HD straight 30.

Initally had to adjust the governor sensitivity spring to get this unit to run at a steady RPM regardless of load.

Set the throtle to exactly 60 HZ, while under 1/2 rated load. A teck told me that they all come factory set to too high of a RPM and he was right. There are three ways to set RPM, a frequency meter (I had to build a noise filter simple RC), a tack on the motor, or a clock that has a 120 AC motor will actually be fast- right on- or slow depending on generator frequency.

Added a car muffler with flex pipe from McMaster-Carr, now less noise than a gas lawn mower. Note exhaust port on these motors is all-ready threaded (remove muffler to see if yours is threaded). You must use a flex pipe to protect everything from the stress tht would be placed on it from movement. You have to addapt up in size to get to the muffler size Summit makes a flex pipe that works with the muffler pipe size.

Unit is stored inside, run under light load for 10 minutes every four months with fresh gas, then carb run dry, then plug pulled and Sta-Bil foam sprayed in, plug reinstaled, roap pulled several times,then roap lightly pulled and stoped on a compression stroke so both valve springs are not compressed.

I realize the striaght Castrol 30 is too thick for winter temps.
Have several M1(all synthetic) oils stored for winter 10W-30, 10W-30 extended, and 5W-30. After reading some post I wonder about the M1 10W-30 (without the extended additives).

I am thinking of geting some GC (local AutoZone has some) and forgeting about M1.

How can some people recomend Amsoil 10W-30/SAE30 blindly without talk about minimum ambient temp., when a 10W should only be good down to -4 F ? Ambient Minimum and Maximum air temperature, Load, and usage should be talked about more when recomending oils.

Knock on Wood, I have never had to use this unit for a real outage yet. Change the oil once a year for 2 and 1/2 years now.
It is certinaly cheaper to throw away Castrol straight 30 once a year after only 30 minutes of running than a more expensive oil.

I figure that if we have a real outage in the winter that the oil in the generator will still be some-what warm when we drag it out to the far side of the back yard and fire it up. I figure that it probably will be cooled down a lot by the time we get oil into it doing a out-door oil change. Then I would want a good winter oil for the start-up.

Also could someone coment about change time when low hours, and time stored in months becomes the major isue. And could someone coment about how many hours they would run an oil under what ambient and loads.

I would like to know what oil is best for each season.

Thanks.

JimPghPa

PS: Also store K&N air filter and cleaning oiling kit for air filter for long outage.
 
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Nice to meet you and welcome.
Sounds like you're doing the right stuff with your equipment. For the range of temp you're dealing with, I think GC is a fine choice. It's a thick 30 but not quite a 40 and it can stand a little shear without getting out of grade. If you weren't so concerned about the 40wt., I'd say Rotella 5W-40 because of availability.
When the generator is in use, changing oil every 25 hrs or once per day if run continually would be fine. When in storage, I'd just do it once every two years. You're storing it right and driving out the moisture every few months by running it so GC should handle that no problem. Others might say once a year, but that's just my opinion.

And thanks for bringing this up again, I need to see if I can dig up those old spreadsheet files...

Also, that is an Excellent idea for the muffler. I've got a similar coleman with the 8hp briggs and you talk about LOUD... Jeez! I bet that car muffler is nice. I've had to use mine after a hurricane on and off for a week and let me tell you that noise gets old. Don't forget to keep an inline fuel filter on that thing and a spare handy - the last thing you want is to have to take apart and rebuild a carb at 4 AM because a little bit of trash got sucked in the jet.
 
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Good idea, I have been thinking about adding a inline fuel filter because when I remove the fuel line from the carb to drain the tank each time there is a slight danger of the fuel line generating little pieces that could get into the carb. I had to rebuild a carb on my brand new mercry outboard once because some small pieces of fuel line got to the float valve. With a inline I would then remove line before the inline and if any small piece gets into the fuel it will be stoped by the inline.

Also note the in-tank fuel filter can be cleaned without emptying tank by puting a piece of a plastic bag over the tank fuel cap threads and then puting cap on. Then remove tank and flip over the tank to remove the fuel filter and back flush or blow it out with reverse flow of some kind, air or fluid.

I also read a post that said that Sta-Bil for the gas can degrade a rubber fuel line that is sometimes used on these generators. I will probably use a new fuel line.

JimPghPa
 
Here is a copy of something I wrote about how to install a muffler on one of these generators.

He also said the exhaust has female threads for npt pipe, if you remove the factory muffler you can get to the threads, and I could add my own muffler on this type of pipe. He also said to be sure to use a flexable conection on the pipe. I went on "McMaster Carr" site and found flexable stainless pipe (the lower cost unit is discontinued but if you order it they give you the higher cost higher quality unit at the lower cost). You will require some straight threaded pipe and some right angles. I found a small muffler with a heat shield at the local auto parts store (advance auto parts her in PA there part no. from the side of this muffler 18677 9 245 ) and used PC7 epoxt puty to temporally hold the corect mounting angles with respect to the muffler heat shield attaching to U shaped steel bent from 1 inch flat steel that I purched from home depo and bent into two big U shapes to mount to the bolts on the alternator (I had to put longer bolts on that side of the generator, and extend and move the ground wire to the other side of the generator). I used very long flexable hose clamps from NAPA, (two sets, each made of two of the longest they sell) to hold the muffler to the steel while the PC7 epoxy putty dried. After the epoxy cured I had a local auto shop weld the steel to the heat shield (make sure to ask them to be careful not to burn through the muffler when welding to the heat shield). I have a lathe so I was able to turn a piece of steel to make the cup shaped piece that I had welded to the end of the pipe and provide fit to the inside of the input pipe for the muffler. I now have a home made auto muffler adapted to this generator. It did reduce the noise considerably but the valve train, piston, and air intake still make quite a racket. Before it was louder than a gas lawn mower. Now it is not as loud as a gas lawn mower.

The way I added this muffler it moves with the generator and motor but still has the flex pipe for extra give.

I am now going to add a heat shield between the heat shield of the muffler and the generator for added protection of the generator.

JimPghPa
 
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