Castrol Edge 0W/40, 6200 miles, '00 E46 330Ci

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Hi guys, new herebut i have a bit of a problem hoping someone could help me with. Ive sent 2 oil sample off on my car and there seems to be a problem.
The engine is the M54 block, and has done ~63000 miles.
Ive owned the car since 46000 miles and it has a FBMWSH.

2 reports here. On the 2nd sample of oil, i had done 1 track day back in June. Engine mods include 3rd cold air feed, and muffler delete. Running Shell V-Power (99 RON Gas), averaging about 26-27mpg. (Ive put the universal avergaes in brackets)

Miles on oil=======7046----------------6260
Total miles========56845-------------63150
Date==============05/08/08---------09/26/08
Make up oil=========1.5L--------------1.75L

Oil Brand------Castrol RS Sport----Castrol Edge
Grade---------------0W/40-------------0W/40

ALUMINUM-------------3-----------------4-------(3)
CHROMIUM-------------0-----------------0 -------(0)
IRON------------------23----------------29 ------(11)
COPPER---------------10----------------7 -------(7)
LEAD-----------------14----------------25 -------(5)
TIN--------------------0-----------------0 -------(1)
MOLYBDENUM--------4-----------------131 ----(88)
NICKEL----------------0-----------------0 -------(0)
MANGANESE-----------2-----------------1 --------(1)
SILVER----------------0-----------------0 -------(0)
TITANIUM-------------0-----------------0 -------(0)
POTASSIUM------------2-----------------1 -------(2)
BORON-----------------4-----------------53 ----(57)
SILICON---------------6-----------------4 -------(4)
SODIUM----------------2-----------------3 -------(5)
CALCIUM-------------2953-------------1817 ----(2500)
MAGNESIUM----------160--------------25 ------(89)
PHOSPHORUS---------850--------------722---- (810)
ZINC-----------------1212-------------880---- (989)
BARIUM----------------0-----------------0 -------(0)

SUS @ 210F----------71.9--------------69.1
cSt @ 100C----------13.45-------------12.72
Flashpoint F---------375---------------405
Fuel %----------------0.5-------------- Antifreeze %----------0-----------------0
Water %---------------0-----------------0
Insolubles %---------0.5----------------0.4

The report from May was as follows:
Iron and lead both read high in the initial sample from your engine. These metals mainly show
bearing wear, though iron can come from any steel part. Both are fairly high for an oil run 7,046 miles, but
not cautionary. Since everything else looks okay, we are not ready to call these results a problem just yet.
The universal averages column shows typical wear from this type of engine after 6,400 miles on the oil. A
little gas was found, but not enough to cause the excess wear. Try 5K miles next. You could also change oil
types, though usually brand doesn't matter.


The latest report from last week:
Oil usage decreased but iron and lead both increased and that is not a good sign. The iron is
coming from steel parts like cylinders, the valve train or rotating shafts. The lead is coming from the
bearings. Both are at cautionary levels indicating excessive wear. Their rate of wear (ppm/mile) also
increased and that shows a mechanical issue inside your engine. No gas, moisture or coolant was found
plus air and oil filtration were normal. All five can be ruled out as factors in this high wear. Track days can
be a factor. Shorten oil runs. This is a Caution report.



I'm concerned about the high iron and lead rates. Is there any way to have the engine checked to see what could be causing the high rate of iron and lead? & hence if its fixable

One thing to note about the latest oil sample is that i didnt change the oil at the time of sampling, cause it was going into the dealership for its service the following week changed by them anyway. So i removed the sump plug and took a quick sample, with no more than 750-1000mls of oil draining from the sump. & would have the oil changed by them anyway
 
You can see that these two Castrol 0W-40's are completely different formulations. The RS Sport 0W-40 has an 'older' SL-add pack, with higher Calcium and Magnesium in the add-pack. It is also, 'tougher' oil, having sheared less, even with fuel dilution, which lowered the flashpoint.

The Castrol Edge 0W-40 is obviously a newer, SM-oil, as it has significant Moly and Boron, and Zinc is WAY lower.

The RS Sport 0W-40 seemed to have done a better job, overall. If you're tracking the car, and getting high wear, you might need to go with a thicker oil - 5W-50, or even the 10W-60 made for BMW....
 
what's the driving style

WOT take offs?

short distance driving with lots of cold starts?

high speed freeway cruising above 80 mph?

spirited curvy road driving with lots of heel/tow driving and power shifting?

maintenance standards by prior owner?

pull the valve cover and take a look for slugging. common on these hi pro engines that have had poor oil maintenance.

if you find sludge and not just a light varnish coat, have a compression test ran. old sludge will keep sloughing off into new UOAs
 
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Looking at the data sheets, the Edge has a surprisingly low TBN of 6.6. It's still BMW LL-04 approved, but in general the LL-01 RS with a starting TBN of 10.3 is a much better choice.
 
Firstly thanks for all the responses and input guys.

Originally Posted By: vxcalais
Is this Castrol Edge imported from Australia or the German made stuff ? See if they have the 10W60 Edge over there.


not sure although i did buy it off ebay, so maybe it was the imported stuff???


Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Is M1 0w40 available there?


Yes, its whats gone in on this occaison. I had made this choice prior to knowing the results of the lastest test.

Originally Posted By: addyguy
The RS Sport 0W-40 seemed to have done a better job, overall. If you're tracking the car, and getting high wear, you might need to go with a thicker oil - 5W-50, or even the 10W-60 made for BMW....


i'm thinking along the same lines, i higher weight, thicker engine oil, for the next oil change which i'll do in 4-5k miles.


Originally Posted By: Steelhead
what's the driving style

WOT take offs?

short distance driving with lots of cold starts?

high speed freeway cruising above 80 mph?

spirited curvy road driving with lots of heel/tow driving and power shifting?

maintenance standards by prior owner?

pull the valve cover and take a look for slugging. common on these hi pro engines that have had poor oil maintenance.

if you find sludge and not just a light varnish coat, have a compression test ran. old sludge will keep sloughing off into new UOAs


Acheiving 27mpg on my car, which i reckon is pretty good, so not too aggressive. but i do heel toe quite regularly also. also the car has been remapped (therefore redline raised from 6000, to 6500rpm) and sprint booster fitted (essentially acts like a sport button sharpening the throttle response)

it had a full dealer service history, prior to me buying it. i had a compression check (not a leak down test) carried out after i noticed sum blue smoke on a cold start, but that checked out ok with all cylinders acheiving around 165psi. heres the vid that got me concerned, but like i said it checked out ok:

http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Qqqwu4slogw
 
Originally Posted By: oz_striker
Acheiving 27mpg on my car, which i reckon is pretty good,

Just curious, is that 27 mpg UK or 27 mpg US?
 
I didn't realize the UK got this engine in 2000....we in the U.S. got it in 2001 :)

I don't think a 10w60 would be right for you and this engine. You don't live in a hot climate or drive your car hard. But you are experiencing unusually high levels of engine wear with no obvious attribution (contamination, fuel, coolant, etc.)

Your oil consumption is about normal, nothing unique there. You are using quality synthetics and have done a number of runs, which I would think would help clean old sludge out. But your wear continues apace (actually, your lead almost doubled considering the latest run was a lower mileage).

I don't think these engines spit lead normally. If this was me, I'd change my filter to a different brand, change my oil (as you've done) and maybe switch to a 5w40, and do 4500-5000 mile oil change intervals and see what happens. For me, it's not about isolating the cause so much as stopping the damage now.

No obvious causes, so change everything up and see what happens. If it continues, I'd say you've got something an engine that likes to wear itself...

Joe
 
Originally Posted By: JoeFromPA
I didn't realize the UK got this engine in 2000....we in the U.S. got it in 2001 :)


The M54 3.0L engine is essentially just an M52 2.8 that is stroked, albeit with a few other modifications (full length dual exhaust pipes) and the early ones (ie mine) were exactly that, a stroked M52. easy way to tell is to get on your knees and look at the exhaust, dual exhaust pipes running all the way back?.. its a M54, single pipe running between centre cats and muffler?....its an early M54/late 3.0L M52. ((see pic)

IMG_0607.jpg


Still has 231bhp tho so i'm happy :)

Originally Posted By: JoeFromPA
I don't think a 10w60 would be right for you and this engine. You don't live in a hot climate or drive your car hard. But you are experiencing unusually high levels of engine wear with no obvious attribution (contamination, fuel, coolant, etc.)

Your oil consumption is about normal, nothing unique there. You are using quality synthetics and have done a number of runs, which I would think would help clean old sludge out. But your wear continues apace (actually, your lead almost doubled considering the latest run was a lower mileage).

I don't think these engines spit lead normally. If this was me, I'd change my filter to a different brand, change my oil (as you've done) and maybe switch to a 5w40, and do 4500-5000 mile oil change intervals and see what happens. For me, it's not about isolating the cause so much as stopping the damage now.

No obvious causes, so change everything up and see what happens. If it continues, I'd say you've got something an engine that likes to wear itself...

Joe




Thanks for that, i'll try 5w-40 next time. How about using one of those magnetic oil drain sump plugs that i've seen on ebay? Anyone have any experience with them?
 
Quote:
but i do heel toe quite regularly also. also the car has been remapped (therefore redline raised from 6000, to 6500rpm) and sprint booster fitted (essentially acts like a sport button sharpening the throttle response)


Remapping could cause a lot more stress on the engine and therefore higher wear, nothing can change that.
 
While you will amass some material, the jury is always out on whether you're doing anything. Some of our stratospheric types suggest that most of the detectables will still be floating around ..and that the collected stuff would be caught (mostly) by the filter.

..but.. if you see a "beard" on your plug after cleaning it every time ..then it surely tells you that something is "unright". Some accumulation is normal and expected.

Everyone agrees that it can't hurt and can be one more indicator for you to sweat over
grin2.gif
 
Ressurection of my post. I've done a further 3 oil analysis since, and today will be doing another oil change. Car has mainly been running on LPG/Autogas over the last 8000 miles or so, so it'll be interesting to see what it shows.

Heres a link to the latest report:
http://www.mediafire.com/file/jgng2nimunq/BMW 330Ci Oil analysis.PDF

Heres what oil was used and when:
1st analysis: Castrol RS Sport Synthetic 0W/40
2nd analysis: Castrol Edge Sport 0W/40
3rd analyis: Mobil 1 0W/40
4th analysis: Mobil 1 0W/40
5th (latest): Mobil 1 5W/40 (this is the one attached)

I cant remember if the two M1 0W/40'w were BMW LL 98 or 01. But the latest M1 5W/40 is definently BMW LL-98
 
This was Mobil Synt S 5W-40, correct? I suspect so since according to XOM it's the only 5w-40 available in the UK with passenger car approvals. About half the Sulfated Ash.


It appears that this annoying Pb/Fe isn't letting up much. It appears that your Cu is stellar compared to UA.

What's the mileage that the universal averages are based on? (edit: got it 6xxx )

There's nothing to fix here ..at least in any obvious way. Perhaps going up in visc would be recommended. That's the typical next step in looking for a reaction. You've got no contamination of merit, the fuel/flash point isn't bad, and the visc is not far from virgin.
 
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Originally Posted By: oz_striker
Ressurection of my post. I've done a further 3 oil analysis since, and today will be doing another oil change. Car has mainly been running on LPG/Autogas over the last 8000 miles or so, so it'll be interesting to see what it shows.

Heres a link to the latest report:
http://www.mediafire.com/file/jgng2nimunq/BMW 330Ci Oil analysis.PDF

Heres what oil was used and when:
1st analysis: Castrol RS Sport Synthetic 0W/40
2nd analysis: Castrol Edge Sport 0W/40
3rd analyis: Mobil 1 0W/40
4th analysis: Mobil 1 0W/40
5th (latest): Mobil 1 5W/40 (this is the one attached)

I cant remember if the two M1 0W/40'w were BMW LL 98 or 01. But the latest M1 5W/40 is definently BMW LL-98


Use of LPG instead of gasoline all the time might have adverse effects on the engine.Have you considered that?
 
Originally Posted By: Geo_Prizm
Use of LPG instead of gasoline all the time might have adverse effects on the engine.Have you considered that?

If it has, the latest UOA is certainly not showing it.
 
Well:

1. You had a race day on there that could affect it.

2. You took an oil sample that could have had higher concentrations of metals. You should take the oil sample from oil after it has drained a little bit. Maybe some metal settled out into the sample you drained off.
 
Numbers on M1 are lower than Edge, yet, the latest UOA contained 2 qts of make-up oil. Looked like consumption was lowest on the M1 0w40. This OCI more than doubled consumption yet mileage was slightly less than 50% higher than the previous oci.

Saw the blue smoke in your video. Pretty inexplicable. Perhaps the previous owner ran it pretty hard.

Paying for fuel for a 330i in England must be expensive! They aren't known for the most stellar mileage.
 
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