Nissan 350Z (VQ35DE engine) Dino Oil & Oversized Oil Filter Questions.

[Zardoz]

Hi everyone, I'm new to the board. Glad I found this site.

Just bought a Nissan 350Z and love it, but now I'm into the whole "What's the best oil & filter combo to get?" amongst many other newbie things.

I drive about 61 total miles daily. 56 miles are on the highway and 5 miles on city streets (if that means anything). I only have about 1,200 miles on the odomoter, so I'm not thinking about synthetic oil right now.

I've done some searching on here for my engine (the Nissan VQ35DE) and have a few questions, which hopefully will yield newer/updated answers.

ABOUT DINO OIL:

Chevron Supreme 5W-30 and Penzoil Conventional 5W-30 dino oils were ones that people seemed to be happy with. Then, I came across this link Nismo Oil. Nismo reccommends 5W-40 for my engine.

1.) Does the Chevron Supreme dino oil come w/ additives in it, Techron or whatever it's called?

2.) Why does Nismo reccommend 5W-40, instead of 5W-30?

ABOUT OIL FILTERS:

I've boiled it down to a Mobil 1 filter.

1.) Would you reccommend getting an oversized Mobil 1, or should I stick with the stock size? With all that highway driving I do, I think a bigger filter would allow more flow, so it would be better for my engine. Maybe I'm wrong?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[ex_MGB]

My recommendation (I've a VQ30 in my '97SE Max 5-speed with 120k miles) is stick with OEM filters for the life of the vehicle and dino for the first 20k miles. 10W-30 summer and 5W-30 winter. I'd do 3k to 4k OCI.

If I were driving the car on the track, I'd look at a XW-40. You'll not need a 40w (you'll have higher wear, less power and slower throttle response) on the street, or if you do, you won't have a license for very long.

If you have the manual, put some Redline MT-90 in the gearbox with 30k mile changeouts. Maybe switch to NGK coppers every 10K.

Chevron is fine as best I can tell as well as quite a few others (anything on the shelf at Wallyworld).

[ March 14, 2005, 02:20 AM: Message edited by: ex_MGB ]

 

[shortyb]

Nice car, one of my favs. If not for the kid, I'd seriously consider one. Maybe a G35 then? Oh well, mid-life crisis just around the corner

.

I'll give you my take on your questions.

Oil:

1.) Chevron Supreme (and its twin Texaco Havoline) has a very robust additive package, making it a very suitable oil for moderate change intervals. Basically all the protection you should need. BTW, Techron is a fuel additive. Either found in Chevron fuels (making it top tier) or as a concentrated stand-alone cleaner that can be added to the tank.

2.) I don't read Japanese very well so I can't understand what the "sell" for NISMO oil is all about. Since NISMO is the tuner side of Nissan Motorsports, "their" oil is probably a repackaged brand. 5W-40 is common in Japan so they "recommend" it because its cheaper/easier for them to do IMO. You should be just fine with a 5W-30 or 10W-30.

Filters:

1.) Nothing wrong with the OEM. I've used/currently use the 9E000 on both of my VQ35DEs. VERY low insolubles on all of my UOAs which means decent filtration. I bought mine by the case and it worked out to ~$5 a piece. I think the M1 filter I saw for it at AZ was about $10. Probably don't need an oversized for 3-5K OCIs. Hope this helps a bit and have fun with the Z

 

[Geoff]

On the filter, some manufacturers spec smaller ones to help meet cold start emissions as the engine warms just slightly faster.

If you use a larger filter, fill it with oil as much as possible prior to installation.

 

[ccs2k1]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Zardoz:
Do N.G.K. plugs really make a difference, or is it more of a marketing scheme?

---

VQ30DE-K 5 spd (and newb too). Cant say about the Densos, but I do know that our engines seem to not like the Bosch (broken electrodes/misfiring after only a few thousand miles). Stick with the NGKs.

 

[shortyb]

Z-No dumb question, thats what the board is all about

We don't beat you up like other boards either

Use the Chevron without reservation if you wish. The additives are normal adds in ALL oils, nothing different/special and will NOT cause any harm to your engine.

There is a always lively disscussion about 5W vs 10W for year-round use. What I get out of the discussion (disclaimer: my OPINION) is 5W IS ok for year round use, yes, but has a tendency to shear quicker (especially in your hotted VQ

) because of the added viscosity inducers (VI). More are added to 5W to allow it a lower cold start # while keeping it a 30wt at temp (virtues of a multi-grade). 10W has fewer VIs (supposedly) and therefore less tendency to shear. Now, the points to ponder:

This seems to happen with dino oils because synths are "engineered" and have fewer/no VIs, so.....its a rather moot point with synths. Will you see enough of a shear potential in 3~5K with a good quality dino? Probably not, unless, like mentioned, you intend to do some track time. Especially with the newer SM oils, they have even better base fluids.

Since the dino oils are well made these days, why not provide better start-up pumpability? Its minor, but usually lower in the 5Ws so it may add in getting the oil around quicker.

Nits to pick (generalized statements):

10Ws have less tendency to "burn off" or lose volume when stressed at temp than 5Ws. Well again, oils are very well made these days and its less likely to happen although most 10Ws will have better #s than their 5W counterparts.


10Ws will stay in grade longer because they are at the "thicker" end of the viscosity range for 30wts. Makes sense, since they start out alittle "thicker", it takes more time to shear out of grade. Again, in a 3~5K interval, may be a moot point.

Even with all of this, I still use a 5W for colder temps and a 10W for the warmer weather. But thats just me

.

 

[MolaKule]

Being an owner of a V6 equiped Nissan, my experience is to use (after the 0W30 3,750 run-in) the 10W30's for winter and 5W40's for summer. I prefer the Wix or Amsoil SDF20 for filters.

Keep a close check on the induction system. They tend to ingest dirt if the air filters aren't seat properly or if you have other induction system leaks. Use UOA's to check on oil/engine health.

This DOHC V6 is a real performer BTW. Wait until at least 40,000 miles before you start racing with it.

Change fluid in the transmission every 30,000 miles if daily driving and every 15,000 miles if towing. Drain pan fluid only.

For the differentials, change the factory fill at 5,000 miles and use a synthetic HD gear lube with a minimum 18 cSt GL5 synthetic and replace
Change PS fluid using the Turkey Baster method each year.

The Nissans have a drain and fill plug on each major driveline component so there no excuse not to refill with good fluids.

 

[Al]

IK wold go with the larger K&N HP 1010

 

[MolaKule]

You can use the larger diameter filters if you "re-engineer" the Alternator bracket.

 

[Zardoz]

ex_MGB,

Thanks for the explination on 5W-40 oil. I have an automatic, so I won't be needing the Redline MT-90. Thanks anyway though.

Do N.G.K. plugs really make a difference, or is it more of a marketing scheme? I've used Denso plugs in the past, but I didn't care for them. Other than that, that's all I know about aftermarket plugs.


shortyb,

I didn't like the G35 Coupe that much. For a "luxury sports coupe" the interior seemed very cheap & the front end of the car (how it's all bubbly-looking) looks like a bad Lexus rip-off. However, it does have the coolest-looking taillights. I'd say use the kid's college fund and get a Z.

I don't know why I asked if Techron was in engine oil. Dumb question, considering I used that in my old Honda's fuel tank all the time! *puts on dunce cap*


It's starting to get warmer here. No more 10 degree weather.....now it's 30.

Obviously it'll be a while before my first oil change. The dealer told me that 5W-30 is fine year-round, but you 2 reccommended 10W-30. I guess putting in 10W in the warmer months can't hurt the engine, correct?

Also, since the Chevron does contain additives, maybe I should hold off on that for a while and just use the Penzoil?

[ March 14, 2005, 12:13 PM: Message edited by: Zardoz ]

 

[mikeinaustin]

quote:

---

Originally posted by MolaKule:
Being an owner of a V6 equiped Nissan, my experience is to use (after the 0W30 3,750 run-in) the 10W30's for winter and 5W40's for summer. I prefer the Wix or Amsoil SDF20 for filters.

Keep a close check on the induction system. They tend to ingest dirt if the air filters aren't seat properly or if you have other induction system leaks. Use UOA's to check on oil/engine health.

This DOHC V6 is a real performer BTW. Wait until at least 40,000 miles before you start racing with it.

Change fluid in the transmission every 30,000 miles if daily driving and every 15,000 miles if towing. Drain pan fluid only.

For the differentials, change the factory fill at 5,000 miles and use a synthetic HD gear lube with a minimum 18 cSt GL5 synthetic and replace
Change PS fluid using the Turkey Baster method each year.

The Nissans have a drain and fill plug on each major driveline component so there no excuse not to refill with good fluids.

---

which 5w40 do you prefer?

 

[ex_MGB]

NGK's all the way, do not use any other plug. It is only my imagination, but is seems the NGK coppers deliver a bit more punch. Same plug goes in both my Mazdas.

 

[John in the ATL]

Z,

The NAPA Gold 1334 or the Wix 51334 (same filter) are a good choice for a slightly oversized filter at $7.

The Nissan V6 tend to like heavier 30 weight oils. If you go the synthetic route, wait until after 10,000 miles to do extended drains; wear metals are higher due to break in before 10k.

 

[John in the ATL]

Z,

Oil thickeness is measured in Centistokes or cST. 30 weight oil range from 9.3 to 12.49.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html

The W is the winter flow # at startup. Based on your location, I would use a 5W rated oil in the winter. W ratings are more important for dino oil than synthetic. Most synthetics can easily meet the 5W rating although they are not called that because it can be confusing to a purchaser.

I am currently using the Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (GC in BITOG lingo) because it is a heavier 30 weight 12.2 cST at 100 deg C. I have used the Amsoil ASL 5w-30 which 11.4 cST at 100C as well as Mobil 1 10w-30 which is 10.2 cST at 100 Deg C.

 

[Zardoz]

Thanks for all the help so far guys!

shortyb,

So.....hmm.....either one can't hurt, but you'd reccommend 10W in the summer.....and others rec the 5W, then JohnInTheATL recs the heavier oil (I assume 10W?). My head hurts.

I would think with all the highway driving I do, a 10W would be a better choice, because it has fewer VI's than the 5W does.


"You can use the larger diameter filters if you "re-engineer" the Alternator bracket." -MolaKule

Here are some stock-size aftermarket filters:
K&N KNEHP-1008
Mobil 1 M1-108

Here are some oversized ones:
K&N KNEHP-1010
Mobil 1 M1-110, 105
NAPA Gold 1334
Wix 51334

Going by what MolaKule (btw thanks for the other tips) just said.....I guess I'll have to see all the oversized filters in person in order to make the judgement of: Which will fit good & which will require some modification.


About the N.G.K. plugs: I didn't find a Copper model from them. I went on their website and found the Standard, Laser Platinum and Iridium IX as matches. I would assume the Iridium IX is the "most advanced" one they offer. Not sure which one to get though.

 

[Zardoz]

I searched some 350Z forums and found that the M1-M1-105 is a very good over-sized filter to use for my car. It has the same mounting diameter as the 108 and 110, but it's larger than the other two. The user didn't report any pressure problems or anything, so I assume it will be fine to use.

As far as oil goes, I think 5W-30 will be fine in the summer.

I'm still about 2,000 miles away from my first change, but it didn't hurt to ask beforehand.

Thanks for all the input!