Rolling engine forward - GM 3800 V6

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RnR

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I've been putting off checking the rear plugs and wires on this engine because of the apparent need to "roll the engine forward". How does one properly and safely do this?

I see a couple of wish-bone shaped brackets on the front of the engine, and I think mechanics have loosened these up in the past, but what else might need to be done? Do I need to be concerned about any hoses, belts, or wiring??

Thanks, y'all!
 
Ah... dogbone. Well, I don't think I see that (perhaps I'm missing it), but there are (2) "Y" shaped brackets that have bolts running through them - these bolts have apparently been loosened and I think the ones near the radiator removed - not sure if the bolts closer to the engine had been removed or not.
 
Not sure what car you're referring to, but if its a Buick Century or Olds Cutlas, its not necessary. We did it on an Olds 3.8 V6 transverse mounted engine with a swivel plug socket, and a swivel head 3/8 rachet. A slight PIA but definately possible w/o moving the engine.....Unless we are talking about a different animal. I've done both Buick Century and Olds Cutlas w/o issue.

HTH
Frank D
 
A flex head ratchet is a must have in today's tool box.
Also, a longer than normal spark plug socket helps.
I just did one of these yesterday without messing with the dogbones.
 
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The spark plug socket with the swivel, a long 3/8 extension and the flex head socket were the ticket for me. Yes the flex head socket wrench is a must have item, I have one in 3/8 and another in 1/2 inch. Both worth their weight in gold!

Frank D
 
I've only done this job once for a neighbor. I removed the front engine mount (dogbone), tilted the engine forward, jammed a 2x4 against the firewall, and changed the plugs. I thought the job was rather straightforward and painless.
 
Originally Posted By: RnR
I've been putting off checking the rear plugs and wires on this engine because of the apparent need to "roll the engine forward". How does one properly and safely do this?

I see a couple of wish-bone shaped brackets on the front of the engine, and I think mechanics have loosened these up in the past, but what else might need to be done? Do I need to be concerned about any hoses, belts, or wiring??

Thanks, y'all!


Yes you remove the bolt from the front mount and roll the engine forward,then use a block of wood on the rear firewall.
Makes the plugs quite easy to get to.
 
And "rolling-forward" is just leaving the car off, in gear and pushed/pulled forward?

Ok, sounds doable - although I also like the flex socket wrench recommendations too.

People will know I got the procedure from BITOG when I toss in the 2x4!!
 
The redneck (read: easiest) way to do this is to unbolt the dogbones, lift them up and out of the way, put the car in *PARK* and push forward on the car. You might have to rock it back and forth a few times but you can get the engine plenty far forward. When it's all the way forward, jam down on the parking brake and viola, engine is "rotated".

I've done this at least three times on my now sold '97 Monte Carlo and on my old '89 Regal, never had a problem with this method. If you're concerned about safety, you can jam a 2x4 in there for good measure, but I've never bothered.
 
The flex socket wrench and spark plug with the swivel worked great. About 20 minutes to do the 3 plugs closest to the firewall.

How hard is it to roll the engine back?

Frank D
 
Originally Posted By: dwendt44
Putting a transmission in park locks the trans.. It's not locked to the engine at that point.


The transmission is always locked to the engine, with a bunch of bolts... putting it in park prevents the wheels from spinning, so when you push forward the whole engine/transmission assembly rotates. This procedure has nothing to do with the crankshaft rotating.

Chris142, IIRC, only 1st generation W-cars had the extra bolt hole for that purpose. Definitely wasn't there in my 1.5 gen '97 Monte.
 
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The left "dogbone" engine bracket does have an additional hole that can be used to secure the engine in what I guess is a partially forward position. I found it rather easy to get the engine forward by simply pulling on a handy bracket located on the rear of the engine and then securing things by re-inserting the left bolt through that hole and started poking around.

I would like to get it rotated further however by using the aforementioned parking brake method - and will try that next - after I do some push-ups!
36.gif
 
Originally Posted By: RnR
And "rolling-forward" is just leaving the car off, in gear and pushed/pulled forward?

People will know I got the procedure from BITOG when I toss in the 2x4!!

*Note: The trans must be placed in neutral to allow the engine to rock forward.

On the 3.1L engine the procedure I use is to disconnect the two engine struts and use a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan to tilt and hold the engine forward.

Sometimes I just pull the engine forward by hand and it stays in place.

Makes the job much easier than dicking around with swivel sockets, ugh!
 
I didn't think 20 minutes to R&R the 3 plugs closest to the firewall was bad. I figure it would take me that long or longer just to roll the engine forward since I've never done it that way :) To each his own.

Frank D
 
Not necessary to roll it forward. I did the 1st time I did plugs but not the 2nd. The hard part is getting the wires of the plugs the rest is easy.
 
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