Oil 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8L

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My son's spouse is the owner of the Caravan and neither one knows how to maintain a vehicle so I have volunteer to maintain it. Vehicle has 60K miles and since I am not familiar with the history of these engines, I would like some input on the oil to use. We are located in Florida. It specs for 5W30/10W30. I was thinking either PP 10W30 or PP YB 10W30. OCI's will be around 5K.
 
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No real world benefit running 10w instead of 5w. Take advantage of the very small benefit of higher fuel mileage with the 5w with equal engine protection.

I would not use synth for a 5K OCI.

Are you paying for the oil/filters? If so I would go with the cheapest SM 5w-30 and cheapest oil filter. It is far better care than the van would see otherwise.
 
If you don't use UOAs (at least one), I wouldn't run an oil past 6k the first time around. (Well, maybe Amsoil).

I don't think most people want to push the oil to it's absolute limit on the seat of their pants. If you do enough highway driving, then 5k is good interval for a conventional oil. If you're not sure, I would go 4k. It's very little additional cost and a whole load of additional peace of mind.
 
Originally Posted By: pruizgarcia
OCI's will be around 5K.


I would use yellow bottle Pennzoil, 10w30, for a 5K OCI.
My Dads 2002 and 2005 Mopar vans see nothing but Pennzoil, no problems to report at all.
 
Dont forget the gearbox..
Change and use ONLY ATF+4 no matter
what the dealer tells you, dont use
any universal type or additive in it.
 
Originally Posted By: ac_tc
Dont forget the gearbox..
Change and use ONLY ATF+4 no matter
what the dealer tells you, dont use
any universal type or additive in it.


That is my next plan of attac; drop the pan and put some fresh ATF+4 in the transmission.
 
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Just be sure to keep an eye on the oil level. Even though my Grandma's 2003 T&C has been well maintained, it still burns about 1 quart every 2000 miles.

As for ATF, I can certainly agree that additives are not helpful. However, I have seen good things from using Amsoil universal ATF in place of Chrysler ATF+4. Some people on the "ATF, Differential, Trans forum have seen great things from Redline C+ ATF.

Also, use the turkey baster method on the power steering system to help extend the life of the pump and rack. Check your manual to know what PSF is right.

Flush out the old brake fluid once every three years to extend the life of the brake hydraulics.

And finally, if you have an AWD van, see what fluid the transfer case and rear axle require, and change them to extend their life.
 
I don't know too much about the history of these engines, per se. However,I did purchase a 2008 Grand Caravan with the 3.8 engine. I purchased this vehicle new. I noticed it used almost a quart of oil in 1000 miles. Dodge says this is normal. Bull hockey!
I switched from Havoline (old formula) to Penn Platinum and the consumption has gone to about 1/2 quart in 3k miles. My point is, watch your oil level or you may be very low before you know it.
 
On my 3.8 jeep (same engine) I run 5w20 and I haven't been able to observe any consumption in the last 2 OCI's. Just run 5w30 for that older engine since this is for a kids spouse and forget about it. Remind them to check the oil every now and them and warn them about the consequences, but overall you are not responsible for that neglect. I say Yellow bottle 5w30.
 
Originally Posted By: pruizgarcia
Originally Posted By: ac_tc
Dont forget the gearbox..
Change and use ONLY ATF+4 no matter
what the dealer tells you, dont use
any universal type or additive in it.


That is my next plan of attac; drop the pan and put some fresh ATF+4 in the transmission.


Just draining the fluid and changing the filter is only doing half, if not, a third of the job, there is still fluid in the transmission cooler lines, the cooler and the torque converter. However, just flushing does not get the filings that are caught in the filter, and the dirt from the filter will contaminate the new fluid faster. The only way to do a 100% flush is to drop the pan, change the filter, and then flush the system out when hooked up to the flush machine.

in other words just dropping the pan, draining whats in it, then closing the pan and refill is only getting rid of less then half of the trans fluid.. to get %100 transmission fluid change you'll want to flush it out via the cooler lines, you need some kind of flushing machine too.. i would just go to a local shop and do it.. heck i think even walmart does it. usually cost around $70. alittle more expensive but its the better and right way of doing it

if you do the "drop the pan" method.. you'll have to do it about 3 or so times in a row to make sure all the old fluid is gone.. thats wasting good trans fluid and costing like the same cost as if you where to take it in somewhere and letting them flush it for you..

as for the oil.. i strongly recommend a UOA to see what kind of shape the engine is in and then you can determine your OCI from there on... if you cant or dont want to do a UOA, just stick with a 3k-4k OCI or 6 months and pennzoil YB 5w-30 would be a god choice. pennzoil platinum would be a better choice too
 
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