I ride a Honda Valkyrie. Factory says 10-40 at 4,000 mile intervals. From what I have been able to determine online by reading various oil filter comparisons, the OEM filter is a good one. By going full synthetic (with no friction modifiers because of the wet clutch) I plan to extend the service interval, but would feel better about that by going with a "higher-capacity" filter. The PureOne PL14610 appears to be the best of those that will fit (others that will fit are 6607 @ 52 square inches of media, 7317 @ 62 square inches of media, and 3593A @ an unconfirmed 162 square inches of media). The Valkyrie enthusiast community has said generic or cross-referenced oil filters need to have bypass valves at 8-11 psi. Would I have or create a problem by using the 14610 at 14-18 psi? Thanks again.
And now the technical question
- Thread starter Dave_in_Frisco
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I did not say it before, so
to BITOG. How are things in Frisco, TX? One of my favorite small towns.
I would use the factory filter and I would use Mobil 1 MX4T 10W-40 motorcycle oil and change it at 5,000 miles.
Forget what I said about small towns. What happened? Last time I was in Frisco (around 1992) the population was around 7,000. I just looked up the demographics and the population is now around 98,000.
I would use the factory filter and I would use Mobil 1 MX4T 10W-40 motorcycle oil and change it at 5,000 miles.
Forget what I said about small towns. What happened? Last time I was in Frisco (around 1992) the population was around 7,000. I just looked up the demographics and the population is now around 98,000.
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Thanks, Johnny. Things slowed a bit in Frisco, but seem to have resumed their hectic, if not frantic pace. 3,400 people in 1990. 44,000 in 2000. Just over 100,000 now and only about 25% developed!
Rotella T seems to be the popular synthetic choice with Valkers based on wally world pricing, availability, and performance. Some use Amsoil, Mobil 1, and Castrol. I'm interested in the Royal Purple mainly because it's made in Texas. However, given the increased cost and your recommendation of a 5,000 mile interval, it doesn't seem worth it. I've heard a number of people say that full synthetic can go 8-10,000 miles as long as it is kept clean and the engine is run regularly to keep it dry. That's why I was wondering about a bigger filter.
Also, my understanding is that the only time the bypass valve is invoked is when the filter element(s) are so dirty that they are clogged. Is this true?
Rotella T seems to be the popular synthetic choice with Valkers based on wally world pricing, availability, and performance. Some use Amsoil, Mobil 1, and Castrol. I'm interested in the Royal Purple mainly because it's made in Texas. However, given the increased cost and your recommendation of a 5,000 mile interval, it doesn't seem worth it. I've heard a number of people say that full synthetic can go 8-10,000 miles as long as it is kept clean and the engine is run regularly to keep it dry. That's why I was wondering about a bigger filter.
Also, my understanding is that the only time the bypass valve is invoked is when the filter element(s) are so dirty that they are clogged. Is this true?
I have the same question but my bike is a VTX 1300..wondering if the Pure 1 is good if so how much extra oil to compensate for the larger filter?
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Originally Posted By: Dave_in_Frisco
Thanks, Johnny. Things slowed a bit in Frisco, but seem to have resumed their hectic, if not frantic pace. 3,400 people in 1990. 44,000 in 2000. Just over 100,000 now and only about 25% developed!
Rotella T seems to be the popular synthetic choice with Valkers based on wally world pricing, availability, and performance. Some use Amsoil, Mobil 1, and Castrol. I'm interested in the Royal Purple mainly because it's made in Texas. However, given the increased cost and your recommendation of a 5,000 mile interval, it doesn't seem worth it. I've heard a number of people say that full synthetic can go 8-10,000 miles as long as it is kept clean and the engine is run regularly to keep it dry. That's why I was wondering about a bigger filter.
Also, my understanding is that the only time the bypass valve is invoked is when the filter element(s) are so dirty that they are clogged. Is this true?
Don't know much about your bike but I assume the engine and transmission share the same oil. If that's the case no way I would run an oil (anyones) 8-10,000 miles. A lot of shearing going on inside that transmission. Most of my friends up here either run Harley's or Ducati's, and most use the Mobil 1 motorcycle oil in either 20W-50 or the 10W-40. When I lived in the Dallas area years ago, I ran Mobil 1 in my BMW. I need to study up on the model bike you have.
Thanks, Johnny. Things slowed a bit in Frisco, but seem to have resumed their hectic, if not frantic pace. 3,400 people in 1990. 44,000 in 2000. Just over 100,000 now and only about 25% developed!
Rotella T seems to be the popular synthetic choice with Valkers based on wally world pricing, availability, and performance. Some use Amsoil, Mobil 1, and Castrol. I'm interested in the Royal Purple mainly because it's made in Texas. However, given the increased cost and your recommendation of a 5,000 mile interval, it doesn't seem worth it. I've heard a number of people say that full synthetic can go 8-10,000 miles as long as it is kept clean and the engine is run regularly to keep it dry. That's why I was wondering about a bigger filter.
Also, my understanding is that the only time the bypass valve is invoked is when the filter element(s) are so dirty that they are clogged. Is this true?
Don't know much about your bike but I assume the engine and transmission share the same oil. If that's the case no way I would run an oil (anyones) 8-10,000 miles. A lot of shearing going on inside that transmission. Most of my friends up here either run Harley's or Ducati's, and most use the Mobil 1 motorcycle oil in either 20W-50 or the 10W-40. When I lived in the Dallas area years ago, I ran Mobil 1 in my BMW. I need to study up on the model bike you have.
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Any filter that fits a Honda Accord will fit a Wing/Valk.
They are, by and large, roughly the same size.
There is a longer filter IIRC, but it's white and a bit TOO TOO, if you know what I mean.
They are, by and large, roughly the same size.
There is a longer filter IIRC, but it's white and a bit TOO TOO, if you know what I mean.
Try walmarts super tech 15w40,it'a a sleeper oil..
Amsoil 10W-40 or 15W-40 OR 20W-50 full synthetics will all do you right! You'll love the way they shift. I've used the SuperTech filter but currently have the old Amsoil filter on my Interstate. I really doubt you would have a problem with the stock filter, either.
Ought to be good for WAY more than 6K: check out any older (1500cc) Goldwing oil analysis, it is the same basic setup. If it looked dirty or really dark at 6K I'd change it and call it good. These bikes are designed to run 100K with no real sweat.
Cheers! & ENJOY!
Ought to be good for WAY more than 6K: check out any older (1500cc) Goldwing oil analysis, it is the same basic setup. If it looked dirty or really dark at 6K I'd change it and call it good. These bikes are designed to run 100K with no real sweat.
Cheers! & ENJOY!
No one has answered your question about the bypass in the filter. In the very unlikely event that your filter becomes full of contaminants, then yes, the bypass will open some or all the way to maintain oil flow to the engine. The most common situation that would open the bypass valve in the filter would be when the engine and oil are really cold, say on a freezing day, and the engine has just fired up. The bypass valve may open since the oil is more restricted from flowing through the filter media due to the additional viscosity. Then as the oil warms up some, the valve will slowly close off and then all the oil will be filtered through the media.
The purpose of the bypass valve is both to protect the filter from media/center tube collapse, overpressuring/bursting the can, and to protect the engine from losing oil pressure by at least allowing unfiltered oil to the engine under certain conditions.
Temperature, oil viscosity, filter media type and quantity, and the bypass valve setting- all have an effect on when and how much that bypass valve opens and for how long. There may be other factors to consider, but the above is the basic gist.
Can you use the filter with the higher bypass valve setting? IMO is yes- it is not much higher than the oem spec, and with a larger filter, should flow plenty of oil. That being said, I tend to really like the newest oil filters from Amsoil due to their combination of fine filtration, high flow, contaminant capacity, and solid construction. The price is up there, but these are better for extended drain intervals, IMO.
The purpose of the bypass valve is both to protect the filter from media/center tube collapse, overpressuring/bursting the can, and to protect the engine from losing oil pressure by at least allowing unfiltered oil to the engine under certain conditions.
Temperature, oil viscosity, filter media type and quantity, and the bypass valve setting- all have an effect on when and how much that bypass valve opens and for how long. There may be other factors to consider, but the above is the basic gist.
Can you use the filter with the higher bypass valve setting? IMO is yes- it is not much higher than the oem spec, and with a larger filter, should flow plenty of oil. That being said, I tend to really like the newest oil filters from Amsoil due to their combination of fine filtration, high flow, contaminant capacity, and solid construction. The price is up there, but these are better for extended drain intervals, IMO.
When it comes to filters you do not have to use OEM, but I would avoid using anything that is not specifically cross referenced for your bike...
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