Ok to use motorcycle oil in a car? Mobil 4T

[4banga]

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil1_Motorcycle_Oils.asp

Would this be a good alternative to a "racing oil"?
And what exactly is meant by the term "non friction modified" and what are the pros and cons?

 

[Trex101]

Yah why not, as long as your manual spec min API SJ. "non friction modified" are for wet clutch operation in bike engine, you may experience higher fuel consumption when using it in your car.

 

[FZ1]

Look,man. I'll make it simple. Motorcycle oil goes in a motorcycle. Automobile oil goes in an automobile.

 

[4banga]

of course it does, but why? The motor bike oils dont need to meet emmisions like alot of the newer oils these days, and generally have alot higher levels of anti wear additives ect. Have a look at the VOA for the Mobil 1 4T compared to their regular oils.

The levels of zinc and phos are thru the roof, surley there must be some befefit to this or they would not do it!

 

[Yuk]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
Look,man. I'll make it simple. Motorcycle oil goes in a motorcycle. Automobile oil goes in an automobile.


I hate it when people give snotty answers like the above. This site was created to give answers, not idiotic wise cracks. I really hope somebody gives a thoughtful, knowledgeable answer to this question.

 

[FZ1]

Like yours?

 

[Tree Hugger]

The principal difference in 'motorcycle oils' is that they contain no, or much lower levels of, friction modifiers. They are typically also rated no higher than SG or SH.
Most motorcycles share engine oil with the clutch and the primary chaincase. Some even share with the gearbox. This imposes huge shear stresses on the oil, and results in OCIs of 3,000, 2,000, or even 1,500 miles. THe oils basically die because of shearing, and additive packs are not usually even close to 'stressed'.
Most motorcycles require at least a 40 wt and many a 50 wt.
Most oil-conscious motorcyclists are trying to use modern automobile oils (finding the ones with lower levels of friction modifiers) to get better oil performance and longevity.
Havoline DS 20w-50, or Castrol GTX 20W-50 are popular dino oil choices; Rotella T Synthetic, or Mobil 1 in the highest available weights, or AMSoil are the popular synthetic choices.
The specifically labelled 'motorcycle oils' are generally viewed as marketing rip-offs for the naive... You can find much better oils for half the price.

 

[aquariuscsm]

I always ran Castrol GTX 20W50 in my Honda CR500. If you`re wanting to use an M1 40 or 50 weight,I`d just use either the M1 HM 10W40 or the M1 15W50 silver cap.

 

[KW]

Yes motorcycle oil will work in a car motor. The oil don't know what it's been poured in. But like mentioned above, you can find a better oil at a better price than motorcycle oil. Motorcycle oil is mostly marketing.

 

[4banga]

Originally Posted By: KW
Yes motorcycle oil will work in a car motor. The oil don't know what it's been poured in. But like mentioned above, you can find a better oil at a better price than motorcycle oil. Motorcycle oil is mostly marketing.


Thanks for the replies.

Im not really looking for the best value oil, im trying to determine which types of oil will give the best protection in a race enviroment. When the motor bike oils say they dont have friction modifiers, does this mean moly?

Check out this article i found, its a good read http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0310_oil/index.html

here is a few graphs from the article

 

[4banga]

some more info here http://www.maximausa.com/technical/oilbasics.html

 

[FZ1]

Friction modifiers,used in many automobile oils,can cause the clutch to slip. But........you gotta have a bike that makes enought power to slip the clutch to be concerned with that issue. Lol. Amsoil,Motul, and some others, make pretty good mc oils.

 

[JohnBrowning]

Heck ya!!! That is some excellent oil it is a bit pricey but it is excellent oil!Seeing how it is a car we are talking about I would probably use non-EP M115W50 since it is cheaper and will work well as well.

 

[Drew2000]

First, what car would you like to run the 4T in? For less money, a automotive "on sale" synthetic like Pennz Platnium, Valvolene Syn power or Mobil 1 would be my cheaper choice.

The M1 10w40 m/c oil is a very good oil, and is expensive, but with a -65F pour point for a 10w40, they must be using some pretty good base stock.

My experiance is the M1 4T holds "shift feel" much longer than many other oils in my bikes. I do use Rotella 15w40/5w40 and "regular" Mobil 15w50 also.

Drew

 

[4banga]

Originally Posted By: Drew2000
First, what car would you like to run the 4T in?

The M1 10w40 m/c oil is a very good oil, and is expensive, but with a -65F pour point for a 10w40, they must be using some pretty good base stock.


600whp evo. Im just looking at all the available options. I guess im looking for whichever oil has the most protection, what are the ideal levels of zddp,phos, moly? If you look at the graphs on the previous page the maxum ultra has over 2500ppm phos, 2000ppm zddp, 300ppm moly. Is this too much?

 

[MolaKule]

You can see from the charts that the MX4T is nothing more than Mobil 1 in a higher viscosity with no moly or other friction modifiers.

I would not use it as a PCMO since I see no advantages over most PCMO's.

 

[Drew2000]

Originally Posted By: 4banga

600whp evo. Im just looking at all the available options. I guess im looking for whichever oil has the most protection, what are the ideal levels of zddp,phos, moly? If you look at the graphs on the previous page the maxum ultra has over 2500ppm phos, 2000ppm zddp, 300ppm moly. Is this too much?


The "regular" (non EP) Mobil 1 15w50 probably would my choice. High levels of zinc/phos, pretty robust oil and available everywhere. I can't comment about the Ultra, I don't know at what level the laws of diminishing returns occurs with zinc/phos/moly.

Drew