Is Amsoil enough to prevent varnish?

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Do you have a Hondata reflash or standalone ECU? I was under the impression the USDM K20A2/K20Z1 redlines at 8000rpm.

Once SSO is validated by UOAs, I will be extending my intervals as far as I feel comfortable. I row through the gears at wide open throttle several times a week, so I think I qualify for severe service (17,500 miles according to Amsoil).

We'll see how long it lasts.
 
I have a standalone ecu these motors are great good luck with the SI just don't drive yourself crazy trying to keep that engine clean it doesn't take much.
 
Originally Posted By: televascular
Originally Posted By: yota4me
A 3-4 oz maintenance dose of Auto-RX + Amsoil should = NO worry about varnish. LC20 + Amsoil = reduced Amsoil life in my experimentation. Auto-RX does seem to preserve the TBN of Amsoil.

Do you have UOAs posted that reflect this? LC20 claims to level the TBN and add antioxidants; I was under the impression that it would boost the life of any oil... why would Amsoil react negatively? Lube Control is Terry-endorsed, so I'm kinda surprised that it would reduce the life of an Amsoil OCI.

I did the calculations. If I were to use both products as recommended in my 5-quart sump, LC20 would cost me $44.77 for 12 OCIs, and Auto-RX would cost $60.30 for 12 OCIs. These figures include shipping costs and all available discounts.


You'll find my UOA's with LC20 if you do a search for tacoma in subject by yota4me. I should have said my conclusion about LC20 based on UOA's from others on this site & my own very limited experimentation. Maybe some of the rapid TBN depletion I experienced was partly due to high silicon (new engine gasket leaching)? Some of the more conclusive UOA's by others may have been removed with the last web site upgrade. Your mileage may vary. Maybe LC20 provides better overall results with other types of oils.
I'm currently using 6 oz LC20 per 1,000 miles in last of 4 Auto-RX rinse phases in a 92 Honda Accord. Maybe LC20 removes varnish faster?
I use Lube Control FP60 at every fillup.
 
Originally Posted By: yota4me
Originally Posted By: televascular
Originally Posted By: yota4me
A 3-4 oz maintenance dose of Auto-RX + Amsoil should = NO worry about varnish. LC20 + Amsoil = reduced Amsoil life in my experimentation. Auto-RX does seem to preserve the TBN of Amsoil.

Do you have UOAs posted that reflect this? LC20 claims to level the TBN and add antioxidants; I was under the impression that it would boost the life of any oil... why would Amsoil react negatively? Lube Control is Terry-endorsed, so I'm kinda surprised that it would reduce the life of an Amsoil OCI.

I did the calculations. If I were to use both products as recommended in my 5-quart sump, LC20 would cost me $44.77 for 12 OCIs, and Auto-RX would cost $60.30 for 12 OCIs. These figures include shipping costs and all available discounts.


You'll find my UOA's with LC20 if you do a search for tacoma in subject by yota4me. I should have said my conclusion about LC20 based on UOA's from others on this site & my own very limited experimentation. Maybe some of the rapid TBN depletion I experienced was partly due to high silicon (new engine gasket leaching)? Some of the more conclusive UOA's by others may have been removed with the last web site upgrade. Your mileage may vary. Maybe LC20 provides better overall results with other types of oils.
I'm currently using 6 oz LC20 per 1,000 miles in last of 4 Auto-RX rinse phases in a 92 Honda Accord. Maybe LC20 removes varnish faster?
I use Lube Control FP60 at every fillup.


additives to remove varnish isnt the ony way to skin a cat.
oils main job is to lubricate and repel petrolium contaminates from gasoline.
dino oil comes new with plenty of useless contaminates that causes sludge varnish and so on.
Amsoil has NO contaminates in the base oil or any additives within its product line.
Amsoil alone will clean most any engine if it is used long enough in the crankcase.
 
Whaaa, my conventional oil is causing sludge? Is that the clean metal that I saw under my valve cover last night?
crazy2.gif
 
Quote:
additives to remove varnish isnt the ony way to skin a cat.
oils main job is to lubricate and repel petrolium contaminates from gasoline.
dino oil comes new with plenty of useless contaminates that causes sludge varnish and so on.
Amsoil has NO contaminates in the base oil or any additives within its product line.
Amsoil alone will clean most any engine if it is used long enough in the crankcase.


Bull [censored].
37.gif


Lets look at SSO; SSO Page

Quote:
Engineered with the world’s finest synthetic base oils and high performance additives,


That is one additive.

Quote:
Its unique synthetic formulation and long drain additive system resist oxidation and neutralize the acids that shorten the service life of other oils.


Another

Quote:
The lightweight molecular structure of AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil reduces energy loss from the “drag” common to high viscosity oils. It is fortified with additives that enhance its friction-reducing properties to help further improve fuel efficiency.


More additives

Quote:
AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil is thermally stable with a strong resistance to high temperature volatility (burn-off). It is heavily fortified with detergent and dispersant additives designed to prevent sludge deposits and keep engines clean


2 more..


And if I went to ASL same stuff. And ASM and all the others.

All motor oils have additives.

If I was a site sponser, I'd ask to get you banned for the [censored] line. Let Amsoil stand on its own. You do not need to tell lies about it to sell it.

That hurts it more than helps.

It is like the ghost of Tim__xxod is back... (prob is..)
33.gif
 
Bill - you must be feeling better. That's a good thing - I wasn't even following this thread until I saw your name.

I don't have the power to ban anyone.

But I can step in and wonder what he meant by no additives?? Makes zero sense, that's for sure.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Bill - you must be feeling better. That's a good thing - I wasn't even following this thread until I saw your name.

I don't have the power to ban anyone.

But I can step in and wonder what he meant by no additives?? Makes zero sense, that's for sure.



Yeah, feeling a little better!
55.gif


At the least, I would not want him putting my name on the bottom of each of his "informative"
smirk2.gif
posts...

I know you can not ban.

But please.. This site was based when you and I joined YEARS ago on facts.

The one line replies and the drugs have gotten to me..
crazy2.gif


Bill
 
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
Whaaa, my conventional oil is causing sludge? Is that the clean metal that I saw under my valve cover last night?
crazy2.gif


look inside your cylinders and piston ring packs and see if those are clean as under you valve covers.
combustion engine is a simple air pump, lose effiency from the short block and your burning more oil/gas.
the ring packs in all engines gets hot enough to send millions of people running into discount auto parts for a couple quarts of top off $2 SA/SB rated dino oil
LOL.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Quote:
additives to remove varnish isnt the ony way to skin a cat.
oils main job is to lubricate and repel petrolium contaminates from gasoline.
dino oil comes new with plenty of useless contaminates that causes sludge varnish and so on.
Amsoil has NO contaminates in the base oil or any additives within its product line.
Amsoil alone will clean most any engine if it is used long enough in the crankcase.


Bull [censored].
37.gif


Lets look at SSO; SSO Page

Quote:
Engineered with the world’s finest synthetic base oils and high performance additives,


That is one additive.

Quote:
Its unique synthetic formulation and long drain additive system resist oxidation and neutralize the acids that shorten the service life of other oils.


Another

Quote:
The lightweight molecular structure of AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil reduces energy loss from the “drag” common to high viscosity oils. It is fortified with additives that enhance its friction-reducing properties to help further improve fuel efficiency.


More additives

Quote:
AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil is thermally stable with a strong resistance to high temperature volatility (burn-off). It is heavily fortified with detergent and dispersant additives designed to prevent sludge deposits and keep engines clean


2 more..


And if I went to ASL same stuff. And ASM and all the others.

All motor oils have additives.

If I was a site sponser, I'd ask to get you banned for the [censored] line. Let Amsoil stand on its own. You do not need to tell lies about it to sell it.

That hurts it more than helps.

It is like the ghost of Tim__xxod is back... (prob is..)
33.gif



you really went over the deep end misunderstanding me.
the base oil is free of useless molecules.
the ADDITIVES are free of useless molecules.
what is all this banning u talking about?
Does Amsoil make any oil with useless molecules?
does conventinal oil come with useless molecules?
that is what I was conversing about
13.gif
 
Originally Posted By: lazaro


you really went over the deep end misunderstanding me.
the base oil is free of useless molecules.
the ADDITIVES are free of useless molecules.
what is all this banning u talking about?
Does Amsoil make any oil with useless molecules?
does conventinal oil come with useless molecules?
that is what I was conversing about
13.gif



I'll let what you posted and your other postings here on this board show where your "mindset" is.

I guess Amsoil is the only oil out there with useful molecules?

ALL OTHER brands have useless ones. (esp if it is conventional oil)

Got it.

I stand with EVERYTHING I've typed here.

At least you responded to this. (unlike other threads that you have typed your "comments" and have NOT responded)

You are NOT doing Amsoil any favors IMO.

(oh and just in case you think I'm a Amsoil hater, I'm not.)

I just hate the single minded "mindset" that comes from some posters without actual facts. (you are not the only one with xxxx brand is the only brand around here)
smirk2.gif


This board was started with that everyone was encouraged to post data and facts.

Marketing and wife tales exit stage right.
 
Originally Posted By: lazaro
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
Whaaa, my conventional oil is causing sludge? Is that the clean metal that I saw under my valve cover last night?
crazy2.gif


look inside your cylinders and piston ring packs and see if those are clean as under you valve covers.
combustion engine is a simple air pump, lose effiency from the short block and your burning more oil/gas.
the ring packs in all engines gets hot enough to send millions of people running into discount auto parts for a couple quarts of top off $2 SA/SB rated dino oil
LOL.gif



My car doesn't burn a drop of oil. It gets above EPA estimates for gas mileage. UOA's come back excellent.
 
I think it's just a really obtuse way of saying Amsoil being based on PAO and high quality additives, not solvent refined or hydrocracked crude, that it is almost entirely free of impurities and that Group I or II conventional is not free of impurities. At the same time, there's Internet mechanic "expertise" talking out of its [censored].

A somewhat valid point (purity of 'laboratory' synthetics relative to lower group oils) with poor communication and online Amsoil propoganda (Pablo, Don and Gary seem to be in the vast minority of Amsoil dealers I have come across).

Amsoil makes a good product but at times I feel the best thing they could do as a company is "evolve" to a distributorship with main distribution centers and businesses taking over territories to move their product with centralized marketing, and position themselves better into retailers where they can move themselves as a premium product, have the budget to test, approve and license most of their products (fundamentally, SSO could at least be API rated as SL if they wanted it to be and manufacturer approval would at long last put them on equal footing). Amsoil makes very good product but it's their marketing system and "trust us" approach to product approvals that I think keeps them from being the top shelf synthetic to the general population instead of gearheads.

Of course, there are a lot of good guys in the current Amsoil system this would hurt and they have built the company up a lot. They would be selling out a lot of people unless they "consolidated" their dealerships and made sure it was the better quality internal people getting these territories. Preferred customer and territorial dealers, and anything corporate sells to retailers in that area (if they do end up dealing with chains), the dealer gets a cut and is the face the shops deal with in that area.
 
Bingo MGregoir!

Amsoil obviously could compete at the top shelf at Wally World. And for true long OCIr's, it might be alone on the top shelf. I'd probably be going on 14 years of using it now, but 11 years ago I decided it didn't justify the shipping charge when M1 was basically promising the same thing.

And I would likely go back to it today, but the situation hasn't chged.
 
I don't think you'd ever see it on the shelf at Wal-Mart because Wal-Mart would want to leverage it and get it in five quart jugs, call it SSP to never have to price match, and sell it for $6 a quart when everyone else sells it for $9.

I think that there is room on the market for a variety of Amsoil Premium synthetics in 0W-20, 5W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30 "straight 30" like ACD, 5W-40, 10W-40, 5W-50 and 15W-50 grades on the market with each being blended according to the most common applications for each (0W-20 for fuel mileage, cold weather and hybrids, 5W-40 for European vehicles requiring A3, etc.) and make the applications for each transparent.

Warranty approved and licensed, readily available, pretty packaging and exceedingly high quality. Have the full line of products with long drain specialty and outlaw oils of various sorts, but make one transparent, retail ready product line and sort out the marketing end of things. I think a lot of dealers don't necessarily deal much and could be rolled into preferred customers, and the really big dealers could be possibly moved towards distributorship or begin franchising regional distributors.
 
question for you amsoil experts.. i put 2 quarts of amsoil manual tranny oil in my tranny but it takes 2.6 quarts. can i add another oil ? like red line or syncromest to complete fill as it would take some time to get more amsoil.
 
Originally Posted By: mcshooter
question for you amsoil experts.. i put 2 quarts of amsoil manual tranny oil in my tranny but it takes 2.6 quarts. can i add another oil ? like red line or syncromest to complete fill as it would take some time to get more amsoil.


You should move this over to the tranny juice section, but you probably will be fine, if you are talking about Amsoil MTF, for a short run, but no guarantees. Most MT products can be be mixed within brands, mixing brands is borderline OK, but not the best for extended runs.
 
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