What is everyones opinion on doing a transmission flush. I want to change my trans. oil to schaeffer's at 50,000 miles. I have heard both good and bad about the flush. Also how is it done on the new 68rfe since there are no couplers at the cooler for the lines. Any opinions on what/how to do it are welcome also.
transmission flush on 68rfe dodge
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Think of a flush as a complete fluid exchange. So its a good idea. I would guess most of the shops have adapters to handle everything out there.
Make sure they purge all the new fluid from their machine before they add the Schaeffers. I would bring in a few extra quarts of fluid.
You can do the flush yourself if you can get a line disconnected from the cooler. You would probably save yourself a few QTs of ATF if you did it yourself.
Make sure they purge all the new fluid from their machine before they add the Schaeffers. I would bring in a few extra quarts of fluid.
You can do the flush yourself if you can get a line disconnected from the cooler. You would probably save yourself a few QTs of ATF if you did it yourself.
Kestas
Staff member
Some people do a chemical flush, which I think is a bad idea. When you say "flush" I hope you mean a complete exchange of fluid. I always think this is a good idea. The only down side is that a complete fluid exchange is more trouble than a drop-the-pan fluid change, and may be more expensive if done at a shop. But it makes for a superior fluid change.
As far as tapping into the cooler lines, if you do it yourself, disconnect one line, tickle the ignition to determine fluid flow, then add a length of hose to direct the flow into a receptacle. Much of the time this is the only hard part to this procedure, since you have to cobble something up that'll work. The rest is straightforward.
As far as tapping into the cooler lines, if you do it yourself, disconnect one line, tickle the ignition to determine fluid flow, then add a length of hose to direct the flow into a receptacle. Much of the time this is the only hard part to this procedure, since you have to cobble something up that'll work. The rest is straightforward.
It's the "flush" term that's scary. A fluid exchanger, plumbed into the cooler circuit is a normal flow path, non-intrusive, totally harmless procedure.
Joel
Joel
It is a transfusion, and the only way to do it right. You can stand there and watch the old darkened junk come out of one tube while the good stuff goes in the other (have to shift through each position to get the best results).
If done right, you don't use very much more than the real capacity. If the operator is being paid by the qt, he will run it forever.
I've got two machines, and the customers' "wow" comments when they see the difference are worth taking pictures of.
If done right, you don't use very much more than the real capacity. If the operator is being paid by the qt, he will run it forever.
I've got two machines, and the customers' "wow" comments when they see the difference are worth taking pictures of.
I think a flush is a GREAT idea, the only way to do a real fluid exchange and is the most cost effective manner to exchange ATF (especially expensive synthetic ATF).
Some people are only looking to freshen up what is already there, maybe they have already done a flush over to Amsoil ATF and now just want to freshen up the fluid every so many miles while removing some old fluid with the wear metals it contains.
A flush machine (in theory) keeps the pan full of fluid while exchanging the old fluid. So one might conclude that a shade tree mechanic who does a cooler line flush, running the engine until it outputs 2-3 QTs then shuts down, adds 2-3 QTs then repeats will get less mixing of old and new fluid.
Also either way should have much less mixing of old and new fluid if the pan was drained first and refilled. I suspect most shops who do a flush do not drain and refill the pan first. (Maybe the same shops who say a flush cleans the filter??)
Some people are only looking to freshen up what is already there, maybe they have already done a flush over to Amsoil ATF and now just want to freshen up the fluid every so many miles while removing some old fluid with the wear metals it contains.
A flush machine (in theory) keeps the pan full of fluid while exchanging the old fluid. So one might conclude that a shade tree mechanic who does a cooler line flush, running the engine until it outputs 2-3 QTs then shuts down, adds 2-3 QTs then repeats will get less mixing of old and new fluid.
Also either way should have much less mixing of old and new fluid if the pan was drained first and refilled. I suspect most shops who do a flush do not drain and refill the pan first. (Maybe the same shops who say a flush cleans the filter??)
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I appreciate the replies guys. Yes, I want a full fluid exchange.
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