*New Amsoil SSO 0w-30

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Originally Posted By: ericthepig
UOAs are needed yes. Lots of early warning signs to get from them. But UOAs (imo) breed a "perfectionism" mentality. There's a bazzilion folks out there who don't know any better and are taking Amsoil and M1 at their word. If they ever did a UOA they'd probably stop dead in their tracks and become part of the 7.5k/6 month crowd because "the iron readings are high".

I'm confident that all the ignorant folks out there running Amsoil to 1yr OCIs, and running M1 EP to 15k - they're all pushing their oils to where most UOA readers wouldn't dare - and in the end it's all the same. No oil related problems - for the UOA reader, nor for the ignorant soccer mom who believed the Amsoil rep.


I know what you're saying. I ran M1 10w30 EP in my work truck,no uoa until the end. It was fair results skewed by an apparent coolant leak. I informed the mechanics and they weren't concerned. It's still going after 20k+ plus of these reults,it get dino changes every 3-5k. Looses a little bit of coolant perhaps a cup or so every 6 months. The more you look the more potential problems you'll find. UOA's have their place and are a useful tool but the average Joe who see's the commercial touting the EP's ability to go 15k will do it cause Mobil says so.Who knows,my buddy ran his brand new 1979 Cutlas on 10k dino changes for it's entire life,he got rid of it 17 years later as it was approaching 180k without an oil related issue with the engine.
 
Anyone know how this SSO will handle a bit of fuel dilution? A few of us have that problem. DI cars as well as my lowly Prius.
 
Originally Posted By: Winston
Anyone know how this SSO will handle a bit of fuel dilution? A few of us have that problem. DI cars as well as my lowly Prius.

I'll let you know in 6 months. Although the better test will be after a winter run since my summer uoa's are better in regards to fuel.

-Dennis
 
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Originally Posted By: Winston
Anyone know how this SSO will handle a bit of fuel dilution? A few of us have that problem. DI cars as well as my lowly Prius.


I have had some fuel problems. According to the UOA, the oil is holding up admirably. Wear metals are almost nonexistant. See the UOA section, page 3, SSO 0W-30 , 1993 Civic, 3007 miles.
 
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I understand what you mean about some being nurotic about their UOA results. I am not scared by some wear as long as it is all inperspective. You expect to see some increase in wear metal ppm per 1000 miles in an extended oil change situation. We often go for the best trophy UOA we can get but at some point I think it is practical to weight the cost of added oil changes against the increase in wear rates. If the wear rate increase is still insignificant then I do not see the harm. I think that it is smarter though to do some UOA testing to make sure your engine,oil,oci are all in line with your goals. To choose to remain ignorant when one knows that it is possable to see if what you are doing is true ecconomy or false ecconomy is just foolish. If someone does not plan on owning a car at least 10 years or more then I think it really does not matter one way or the other. Any car can make it 3-6 years with almost any reasonable OCI. I plan on my 9 year old and two 6 year old boys all learning to drive on my 2003 Camry.
 
Thanks Harry. That UOA is a good example of the oil working well, even with a bit of fuel.


BTW, how did you decide on a 3k OCI? Why not 2k or 4k?
 
Originally Posted By: Winston
Thanks Harry. That UOA is a good example of the oil working well, even with a bit of fuel.


BTW, how did you decide on a 3k OCI? Why not 2k or 4k?


I was doing 5K OCI's. At the recommendation of Blackstone, I am going with 3K changes until the gas and antifreeze issues are resolved.
 
Concerning fuel dilution. Folks are dumping oil in short OCIs to deal with that. Well, here's some anecdotal evidence for your consideration -

My best friend (yes, I've told the story before but here's some added details) - bought a 1984 VW van around 1994ish. He sold it a couple of years ago with close to 350k miles. Back in the 90's, after he bought it, he often complained about how heavy the oil smelled like gas - not just a hint of gas, but heavy gas. He said the owners manuel even mentioned the need to do occassional long trips to combat fuel dilution. He strictly used Amsoil and strictly did one year OCIs (w/ heavy miles/yr) (until about one yr before he sold it when it had an oil seal leak - went to cheap dino then). The van made it to 350k w/ no oil issues (besides the leak at the end - which is probably normal for a 20 yr old van w/ 350k).

Go figure.
 
Originally Posted By: Tempest
With SSO???



Yes Tempest, I want to use the finest oil I can get. I like the performance and MPG's. I recently averaged just over 45.5 MPG on a 2,100 mile trip.
I am getting a double whammy with the gas and antifreeze in the oil. How many other oils would put up with that kind of abuse?
 
Originally Posted By: Tempest
With SSO???


You get all types on BITOG. I just did 10k with MC5W20. Double the mfg recommendation on a cheap syn blend that costs less than $2 per quart. (waiting for the report from Blackstone). Then you have the 30k mile TSO people.

Freedom of choice! Yahoo...
 
How many of you plan to give the SSO a try? I know some of you are already using Amsoil but in other weights. Why not sneak in a change of 0w-30 to see if you can feel any difference.
 
Originally Posted By: harry j
How many of you plan to give the SSO a try? I know some of you are already using Amsoil but in other weights. Why not sneak in a change of 0w-30 to see if you can feel any difference.


No interest at all.

I've never felt, seen, had any change with worth talking about with any of the oils I've used. Both Syn vs conventional.

UOAs you can see a LITTLE difference.

MPG no difference with *ANY* API SL/SM oils.

(I did have had a 1 mpg hit using only one oil a long time ago)

This is in many different vehicles with different engines (I4, H4, V6, I6 and V8).

If I was going to use day in and day out Amsoil, I'd use XL 5w-30 in my Subaru and same or ASL 5w-30 in my Corolla. (Current drives)

I'd use Amsoil XL over Mobil 1 without any question. PP is very good so price would be a factor over XL.

Oh, and the OCIs would be AT LEAST 7,500 with ANY Amsoil.

Any less is a waste.

Take care, bill
 
Originally Posted By: Winston
Originally Posted By: Tempest
With SSO???


You get all types on BITOG. I just did 10k with MC5W20. Double the mfg recommendation on a cheap syn blend that costs less than $2 per quart. (waiting for the report from Blackstone). Then you have the 30k mile TSO people.

Freedom of choice! Yahoo...


Can not wait to see it!

Thanks for doing a UOA.

bill
 
Originally Posted By: Bill in Utah
Originally Posted By: harry j
How many of you plan to give the SSO a try? I know some of you are already using Amsoil but in other weights. Why not sneak in a change of 0w-30 to see if you can feel any difference.


No interest at all.

I've never felt, seen, had any change with worth talking about with any of the oils I've used. Both Syn vs conventional.

UOAs you can see a LITTLE difference.

MPG no difference with *ANY* API SL/SM oils.

(I did have had a 1 mpg hit using only one oil a long time ago)

This is in many different vehicles with different engines (I4, H4, V6, I6 and V8).

If I was going to use day in and day out Amsoil, I'd use XL 5w-30 in my Subaru and same or ASL 5w-30 in my Corolla. (Current drives)

I'd use Amsoil XL over Mobil 1 without any question. PP is very good so price would be a factor over XL.

Oh, and the OCIs would be AT LEAST 7,500 with ANY Amsoil.

Any less is a waste.

Take care, bill





I have used the XL and was pleased with it. Stepping up to the SSO, I noticed a difference in engine response and the MPG's went up. I had a 45.5 MPG run recently over a 2,100 miles course.
I agree that the XL is preferable over the M1, especially with my negative experience with the M1. I guess we will never know if the SSO will make any difference in your vehicles, it would be very interesting to see, you are very meticulous doing in your UOAs and obviously care for your cars. I will admit to have never using PP oil, I would give it a try if the SSO was not available for some reason.

Harry

1993 Civic, 245,000+ miles
 
harry, Amsoil tech will tell you that you will get BETTER mpg with a 20wt vs a 30wt. Mpg is related to HT/HS in which most 20wt oils are around 2.6. SSO is 3.2 What you are experiencing doesn't sound accurate. I think you are seeing other variables that are skewing yoru perceived results.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
harry, Amsoil tech will tell you that you will get BETTER mpg with a 20wt vs a 30wt. Mpg is related to HT/HS in which most 20wt oils are around 2.6. SSO is 3.2 What you are experiencing doesn't sound accurate. I think you are seeing other variables that are skewing yoru perceived results.


I may get better results with the 0W-20, and I may even try it to see. I keep a detailed gas book. I got as high as 47.2 MPG and a low of 42.9 MPG. The average MPG is just that. The variables are averaged out and a figure is derived. The derived figure for my trip was 45.5 MPG. I don't know how else to do it. Miles divided by gallons = MPG. Now, because I have 245,000 miles on the original engine, it may be that the tolerances are such that the SSO acts other than it really is. I'm not sure if I am saying this right.
 
according to my records,
I went from Jupiter,FL to Walterboro,SC 487 miles and used 10.3 gallons = 47.2 MPG

Walterboro,SC to Ashland,VA 438 miles/10.2 gallons = 42.9 MPG

Ashland,VA to Gaithersberg,MD back to St. Pauls, NC 480 miles/10.3 Gallons = 46.6 MPG

St. Pauls,NC to Bunnell,FL 465 miles/10.8 gallons = 43 MPG
 
harry, that could very well be. Good thought. The oil maybe forming a better piston/ring seal due to the wider clearances from having so many miles on the engine.
 
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