Engine Motor oil flush additive?
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Originally Posted By: tackleberry625
Originally Posted By: BrianWC
Tackleberry, MMO has changed its formulation many times. It is not the same as it was many years ago. In it's crankcase application, MMO is meant to be used as a flush. At that job, it's not very good.
Where did you get that info from? I stay in weekly or biweekly contact with their tech and marketing departments and more than one person has told me on several different occasions that is still the same since 1923. Also, when adding it to your oil at each oil change, you don't have to add an entire quart. It all depends on the application I am using it in but a lot of the times I just add 8-12 ozs and it has never caused any harm to any engine and/or tranny I have ever put it in.
Got it from this thread. Maybe you have more reliable info, though. I honestly haven't had much success with the stuff cleaning anything. Used to be my flush of choice maybe ten years ago?
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...true#Post306960
Originally Posted By: BrianWC
Tackleberry, MMO has changed its formulation many times. It is not the same as it was many years ago. In it's crankcase application, MMO is meant to be used as a flush. At that job, it's not very good.
Where did you get that info from? I stay in weekly or biweekly contact with their tech and marketing departments and more than one person has told me on several different occasions that is still the same since 1923. Also, when adding it to your oil at each oil change, you don't have to add an entire quart. It all depends on the application I am using it in but a lot of the times I just add 8-12 ozs and it has never caused any harm to any engine and/or tranny I have ever put it in.
Got it from this thread. Maybe you have more reliable info, though. I honestly haven't had much success with the stuff cleaning anything. Used to be my flush of choice maybe ten years ago?
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...true#Post306960
No offense intended in any way tackleberry, but I wonder if you are in any way involved, in the manufacture sale or distribution of Marvel Mystery Oil. Are you so involved tackleberry?
I ask, because as you yourself have just said, MMO hasn't change since 1923. That is just great. But engines certainly have changed a great deal since then. The seal material, tolerances and even the metals used in engines, have all changed since MMO was developed, according to you in 1923, and of course so has motor oil also changed a great deal.
So I just don't understand why, you are so chauvinistic about MMO and so resistant to new tech, like ARX which clearly is both much safer and more effective.
I ask, because as you yourself have just said, MMO hasn't change since 1923. That is just great. But engines certainly have changed a great deal since then. The seal material, tolerances and even the metals used in engines, have all changed since MMO was developed, according to you in 1923, and of course so has motor oil also changed a great deal.
So I just don't understand why, you are so chauvinistic about MMO and so resistant to new tech, like ARX which clearly is both much safer and more effective.
Originally Posted By: Oilgal
No offense intended in any way tackleberry, but I wonder if you are in any way involved, in the manufacture sale or distribution of Marvel Mystery Oil. Are you so involved tackleberry?
I ask, because as you yourself have just said, MMO hasn't change since 1923. That is just great. But engines certainly have changed a great deal since then. The seal material, tolerances and even the metals used in engines, have all changed since MMO was developed, according to you in 1923, and of course so has motor oil also changed a great deal.
So I just don't understand why, you are so chauvinistic about MMO and so resistant to new tech, like ARX which clearly is both much safer and more effective.
Nope.........never sold it myself. I pay $3.34 per quart at Wally World just like everyone else would. As you know, I am trying ARX in the miss's civic now. I kinda look at it like this....If it ain't broke don't fix it. In other words, if someone has used a product for years and it has been used by close friends for generations and it has always worked for them, then why switch to something else that may not work? I'm not saying that ARX does not or will not work for me, after all, that's why I am giving it a chance. IMO, MMO has proven to me and other engine mechanics, time and time again to work in every application I have ever used it in. Everything from unseizing a boat motor to removing some varnish and deposits from engines. I know ARX and MMO are 2 different products and people on here highly endorse ARX, that’s one reason why I am trying it. It would be like someone using ARX for years and it always worked for them, then someone comes along with another product that is suppose to be "safer and better" than the product they have always used, that person would be hesitant in changing something that has always worked.
I know oils have changed a lot. Just look at QS for example. In the past, I would not recommend it to anyone to use even in their push mower, because it USE to sludge up engines badly, now it is not bad oil. Also, people say that “additives” are not really needed in today’s engines because of the “great” oils we have today. Well, even Frank recommends the use of a 3oz ARX maintance dose in the crankcase to maintane the “cleanness” of the engine. If oils are so great today, this would not be needed. You may need to add something in the fuel to clean the injector tips from time to time, but even then, the gas is suppose to be better now-a-days too, so why does anyone ever need to add anything? Oil/gas is “better” today compared to what it was, but it’s still not perfect.
Other people say MMO will hurt the “sensitive emissions equipment” in today’s cars. All I have to say to that is, I have been using MMO in EVERY tank of gas in my 02 Tundra since the day I drove it off the lot, and I have never had any problem with it in the fuel either.
Oh yea, and no offense taken
No offense intended in any way tackleberry, but I wonder if you are in any way involved, in the manufacture sale or distribution of Marvel Mystery Oil. Are you so involved tackleberry?
I ask, because as you yourself have just said, MMO hasn't change since 1923. That is just great. But engines certainly have changed a great deal since then. The seal material, tolerances and even the metals used in engines, have all changed since MMO was developed, according to you in 1923, and of course so has motor oil also changed a great deal.
So I just don't understand why, you are so chauvinistic about MMO and so resistant to new tech, like ARX which clearly is both much safer and more effective.
Nope.........never sold it myself. I pay $3.34 per quart at Wally World just like everyone else would. As you know, I am trying ARX in the miss's civic now. I kinda look at it like this....If it ain't broke don't fix it. In other words, if someone has used a product for years and it has been used by close friends for generations and it has always worked for them, then why switch to something else that may not work? I'm not saying that ARX does not or will not work for me, after all, that's why I am giving it a chance. IMO, MMO has proven to me and other engine mechanics, time and time again to work in every application I have ever used it in. Everything from unseizing a boat motor to removing some varnish and deposits from engines. I know ARX and MMO are 2 different products and people on here highly endorse ARX, that’s one reason why I am trying it. It would be like someone using ARX for years and it always worked for them, then someone comes along with another product that is suppose to be "safer and better" than the product they have always used, that person would be hesitant in changing something that has always worked.
I know oils have changed a lot. Just look at QS for example. In the past, I would not recommend it to anyone to use even in their push mower, because it USE to sludge up engines badly, now it is not bad oil. Also, people say that “additives” are not really needed in today’s engines because of the “great” oils we have today. Well, even Frank recommends the use of a 3oz ARX maintance dose in the crankcase to maintane the “cleanness” of the engine. If oils are so great today, this would not be needed. You may need to add something in the fuel to clean the injector tips from time to time, but even then, the gas is suppose to be better now-a-days too, so why does anyone ever need to add anything? Oil/gas is “better” today compared to what it was, but it’s still not perfect.
Other people say MMO will hurt the “sensitive emissions equipment” in today’s cars. All I have to say to that is, I have been using MMO in EVERY tank of gas in my 02 Tundra since the day I drove it off the lot, and I have never had any problem with it in the fuel either.
Oh yea, and no offense taken
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tackleberry 625 Oil does not deep down clean metal at the very best you might get a slight service clean.If oil companys put enough detergents in oil to really clean the oil could not lubricate.
Auto-Rx keeps the contaminants flowing to the filter and major help in keepng the oil clean.Reducing friction and a host of other benfits.
Risolone at one time was outselling MMO there both old flat head engine chemistry not much relavancy for todays power plants.
Auto-Rx keeps the contaminants flowing to the filter and major help in keepng the oil clean.Reducing friction and a host of other benfits.
Risolone at one time was outselling MMO there both old flat head engine chemistry not much relavancy for todays power plants.
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from a poster on a different forum about MMO.
"
>Subject: Re: Marvel Mystery Oil
Beardg>>MMO has been around for ages. It is quite good for new engines as it
helps the break-in process and will make for a better, longer-lived engine. I
routinely add MMO to my gas in my older bike (69TR6R) as it gives added upped
cylinder lubrication replacing the removed lead. It also will aid in keeping
valves clean and valve seals lubricated.
I learned of this additive from my father who rebuilt aircraft engines in
WW2. It was a staple for most mechanics at the time.
MMO can also be used to help clean oil passages in the lower end. When my
engines get a little low on oil I will top up with MMO.But I agree. DO NOT ADD
TO BIKES ENGINES IF THEY SHARE LUBE WITH THE CLUTCH. In bikes with separate lubrication (Harleys, my old bike) I use it in both gas and engine oil.
I have never had a blown motor in either a bike or car.....My last Harley
went 72,000 before sold my last 2 cars well over 200,000 miles before sold, and
My Dads old car, my first car, a Peugeot 504 went over 400,000 miles before the
body fell off, but that old engine was running sweet!
Will it help with cam chain noise? No.Won`t even quiet things out.... That’s
a job for STP! Get it checked, cam chain small problems can get BIG fast.
Beardg out. "
"
>Subject: Re: Marvel Mystery Oil
Beardg>>MMO has been around for ages. It is quite good for new engines as it
helps the break-in process and will make for a better, longer-lived engine. I
routinely add MMO to my gas in my older bike (69TR6R) as it gives added upped
cylinder lubrication replacing the removed lead. It also will aid in keeping
valves clean and valve seals lubricated.
I learned of this additive from my father who rebuilt aircraft engines in
WW2. It was a staple for most mechanics at the time.
MMO can also be used to help clean oil passages in the lower end. When my
engines get a little low on oil I will top up with MMO.But I agree. DO NOT ADD
TO BIKES ENGINES IF THEY SHARE LUBE WITH THE CLUTCH. In bikes with separate lubrication (Harleys, my old bike) I use it in both gas and engine oil.
I have never had a blown motor in either a bike or car.....My last Harley
went 72,000 before sold my last 2 cars well over 200,000 miles before sold, and
My Dads old car, my first car, a Peugeot 504 went over 400,000 miles before the
body fell off, but that old engine was running sweet!
Will it help with cam chain noise? No.Won`t even quiet things out.... That’s
a job for STP! Get it checked, cam chain small problems can get BIG fast.
Beardg out. "
Originally Posted By: Frank
tackleberry 625 Oil does not deep down clean metal at the very best you might get a slight service clean.If oil companys put enough detergents in oil to really clean the oil could not lubricate.
Auto-Rx keeps the contaminants flowing to the filter and major help in keepng the oil clean.Reducing friction and a host of other benfits.
Risolone at one time was outselling MMO there both old flat head engine chemistry not much relavancy for todays power plants.
True.........I am about 100 miles or so into the ARX clean phase in the miss's car and the engine seems to run smoother already. I don't know if I'm hearing things or not hearing things, but it seems quieter. I want to see how it works in the miss's car and if it does well, which I am sure it will, I want to run a ARX treatment in my 02 Tundra 3.4 L with 73K. I should only need one clean/rinse treatment in my truck since it in under 100k right? The truck has been babied and has had only synthetic oils since 2,800 miles. Looking through the oil fill cap, the internal parts of the engine that I can see (base of the head, cam(s), etc, look spotless.
tackleberry 625 Oil does not deep down clean metal at the very best you might get a slight service clean.If oil companys put enough detergents in oil to really clean the oil could not lubricate.
Auto-Rx keeps the contaminants flowing to the filter and major help in keepng the oil clean.Reducing friction and a host of other benfits.
Risolone at one time was outselling MMO there both old flat head engine chemistry not much relavancy for todays power plants.
True.........I am about 100 miles or so into the ARX clean phase in the miss's car and the engine seems to run smoother already. I don't know if I'm hearing things or not hearing things, but it seems quieter. I want to see how it works in the miss's car and if it does well, which I am sure it will, I want to run a ARX treatment in my 02 Tundra 3.4 L with 73K. I should only need one clean/rinse treatment in my truck since it in under 100k right? The truck has been babied and has had only synthetic oils since 2,800 miles. Looking through the oil fill cap, the internal parts of the engine that I can see (base of the head, cam(s), etc, look spotless.
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Originally Posted By: BrianWC
Tackleberry I'm not trying to dog you on this, just giving my thoughts. In my experience, MMO has seemed oily to clean yet too thin to be a proper lubricant.
No problem and your thoughts and others are welcome, after all, thats why we have discussion forums.
MMO contains mineral spirits which aids in its cleaning ability. I know there are "probably" better products out there that others recommend, but MMO has worked for me. As I said, I am trying ARX to see if it will further clean the engine of the miss's car. Only time will tell for sure.
Tackleberry I'm not trying to dog you on this, just giving my thoughts. In my experience, MMO has seemed oily to clean yet too thin to be a proper lubricant.
No problem and your thoughts and others are welcome, after all, thats why we have discussion forums.
MMO contains mineral spirits which aids in its cleaning ability. I know there are "probably" better products out there that others recommend, but MMO has worked for me. As I said, I am trying ARX to see if it will further clean the engine of the miss's car. Only time will tell for sure.
from MMO's website.........
Is Marvel Mystery Oil safe to use in today’s “high-tech” cars?
Yes! Marvel Mystery Oil is completely safe in today’s high-tech cars and provide the same benefits as it has since 1923-cleaner engines, upper cylinder lubrication, reduced acid and sludge build up, improved fuel economy, clean and lubricated fuel systems and many more!
Will MMO cause any damage to oxygen sensors, fuel sensors or catalytic converters?
No. MMO has undergone rigorous testing to ensure the safety of all internal components in your vehicle including highly-sensitive oxygen sensors, fuel sensors and catalytic converters.
Can MMO be use in vehicles with fuel injectors?
Yes. MMO can be used in vehicles with fuel injectors. MMO provides additional lubrication to the injectors and helps prevent the formation of hard carbon deposits on the injectors. Injectors fouled with hard carbon deposits do not perform optimally and reduce mileage and performance.
Also from another site.......
Classic Cars
Comments
As A kid I remember my father using MMO. If it was good enough for him it was good enough for me.
I had Pontiac that was running terrible, no power, popping through the carb. and getting worse. I knew it was in the valve train ( by the pushrods that barely moved) I didn’t feel like doing a cam and lifters and so on, so I thought ” my dad used MMO to help free up a “seized” motor, so maybe it will help in my situation”. I did weekly oil/filter/MMO changes for a little over a month and to my surprise ( not believing in “mechanic in a can”)the motor came back, strong as ever.
I drove the car for about another year, no problems.
I currently have a few Jeep XJ’s with the 4.0 engine, a workhorse of a motor and I keep them that way by adding a quart of MMO every other oil change and a few ounces to every tank of fuel.
Comment by Gary — January 4, 2008 @ 9:12 am
I’ve used Marvel Mystery Oil to free up some severely rusted and stuck engines. These came out of open air barns or were in cars that sat in fields for years. It takes patience, but the MMO eventually eats away enough grime to free things up enough to disassemble the engine. Without it, you have to resort to blasting out the center of the pistons with an air chisel … not fun.
Comment by Matt Wright — January 4, 2008 @ 6:20 pm
Is Marvel Mystery Oil safe to use in today’s “high-tech” cars?
Yes! Marvel Mystery Oil is completely safe in today’s high-tech cars and provide the same benefits as it has since 1923-cleaner engines, upper cylinder lubrication, reduced acid and sludge build up, improved fuel economy, clean and lubricated fuel systems and many more!
Will MMO cause any damage to oxygen sensors, fuel sensors or catalytic converters?
No. MMO has undergone rigorous testing to ensure the safety of all internal components in your vehicle including highly-sensitive oxygen sensors, fuel sensors and catalytic converters.
Can MMO be use in vehicles with fuel injectors?
Yes. MMO can be used in vehicles with fuel injectors. MMO provides additional lubrication to the injectors and helps prevent the formation of hard carbon deposits on the injectors. Injectors fouled with hard carbon deposits do not perform optimally and reduce mileage and performance.
Also from another site.......
Classic Cars
Comments
As A kid I remember my father using MMO. If it was good enough for him it was good enough for me.
I had Pontiac that was running terrible, no power, popping through the carb. and getting worse. I knew it was in the valve train ( by the pushrods that barely moved) I didn’t feel like doing a cam and lifters and so on, so I thought ” my dad used MMO to help free up a “seized” motor, so maybe it will help in my situation”. I did weekly oil/filter/MMO changes for a little over a month and to my surprise ( not believing in “mechanic in a can”)the motor came back, strong as ever.
I drove the car for about another year, no problems.
I currently have a few Jeep XJ’s with the 4.0 engine, a workhorse of a motor and I keep them that way by adding a quart of MMO every other oil change and a few ounces to every tank of fuel.
Comment by Gary — January 4, 2008 @ 9:12 am
I’ve used Marvel Mystery Oil to free up some severely rusted and stuck engines. These came out of open air barns or were in cars that sat in fields for years. It takes patience, but the MMO eventually eats away enough grime to free things up enough to disassemble the engine. Without it, you have to resort to blasting out the center of the pistons with an air chisel … not fun.
Comment by Matt Wright — January 4, 2008 @ 6:20 pm
No, I don't believe it will foul anything either. It's probably a decent fuel system additive. But in the crankcase, using the recommended quart replacement....I just can't see that. You're diluting the additive pack. Now, I think you'd have to look at what if anything the MMO does to the base oil, the additives, and the engine environment in general. The "removes rust" claim seems a bit odd. Why would you have a significant amount of rust in a well-lubed engine anyway? Maybe a long-seized hulk...but.... Point being, is a watery gentle solvent that can severely thin the remaining oil worth going for? I could see small amounts used in the "traditional" way that one uses Chemtool or seafoam, but MMO is nowhere near as potent in my experience.
Once again I point to the example of my fragile SAAB. Lol, you may be wondering why I keep such a car! Anyway, the oil pumps, even though the car is spec'd for 5W30, have a hard time keeping pressure with that grade. I can't imagine substituting something barely thicker than water. That's why arx has been such a miracle product for me. It has cleaned just as powerfully as my past use (misuse) of Chemtool but without all the associated risks.
Once again I point to the example of my fragile SAAB. Lol, you may be wondering why I keep such a car! Anyway, the oil pumps, even though the car is spec'd for 5W30, have a hard time keeping pressure with that grade. I can't imagine substituting something barely thicker than water. That's why arx has been such a miracle product for me. It has cleaned just as powerfully as my past use (misuse) of Chemtool but without all the associated risks.
Thanks for not taking offense tackleberry, and thanks for answering.
Originally Posted By: Oilgal
Thanks for not taking offense tackleberry, and thanks for answering.
no problemo
Thanks for not taking offense tackleberry, and thanks for answering.
no problemo
Originally Posted By: BrianWC
No, I don't believe it will foul anything either. It's probably a decent fuel system additive. But in the crankcase, using the recommended quart replacement....I just can't see that. You're diluting the additive pack. Now, I think you'd have to look at what if anything the MMO does to the base oil, the additives, and the engine environment in general. The "removes rust" claim seems a bit odd. Why would you have a significant amount of rust in a well-lubed engine anyway? Maybe a long-seized hulk...but.... Point being, is a watery gentle solvent that can severely thin the remaining oil worth going for? I could see small amounts used in the "traditional" way that one uses Chemtool or seafoam, but MMO is nowhere near as potent in my experience.
Once again I point to the example of my fragile SAAB. Lol, you may be wondering why I keep such a car! Anyway, the oil pumps, even though the car is spec'd for 5W30, have a hard time keeping pressure with that grade. I can't imagine substituting something barely thicker than water. That's why arx has been such a miracle product for me. It has cleaned just as powerfully as my past use (misuse) of Chemtool but without all the associated risks.
Yea really....lol. I have heard about and seen what kind of oil those SAABs can spit out, yummy, lol.
IMO, I would not use MMO is a brand new perfectly good running engine. I use it in an engine that needs some cleaning or has some problem(s) (tapping, varnish, sludge, etc). I am trying ARX now so who knows, if the ARX works better, the only thing I'll use it in the oil from now on and save the MMO for the gas.
About MMO removing rust in an engine........if an engine sits too long in storage or something to that affect, the oil will drain off of the upper engine parts and expose the bare metals of the engine (cylinder walls, etc) and light surface rust will develop. MMO states that it will remove that light surface rust. I have never let an engine sit that long so I can't tell you that MMO would in fact work as described.
No, I don't believe it will foul anything either. It's probably a decent fuel system additive. But in the crankcase, using the recommended quart replacement....I just can't see that. You're diluting the additive pack. Now, I think you'd have to look at what if anything the MMO does to the base oil, the additives, and the engine environment in general. The "removes rust" claim seems a bit odd. Why would you have a significant amount of rust in a well-lubed engine anyway? Maybe a long-seized hulk...but.... Point being, is a watery gentle solvent that can severely thin the remaining oil worth going for? I could see small amounts used in the "traditional" way that one uses Chemtool or seafoam, but MMO is nowhere near as potent in my experience.
Once again I point to the example of my fragile SAAB. Lol, you may be wondering why I keep such a car! Anyway, the oil pumps, even though the car is spec'd for 5W30, have a hard time keeping pressure with that grade. I can't imagine substituting something barely thicker than water. That's why arx has been such a miracle product for me. It has cleaned just as powerfully as my past use (misuse) of Chemtool but without all the associated risks.
Yea really....lol. I have heard about and seen what kind of oil those SAABs can spit out, yummy, lol.
IMO, I would not use MMO is a brand new perfectly good running engine. I use it in an engine that needs some cleaning or has some problem(s) (tapping, varnish, sludge, etc). I am trying ARX now so who knows, if the ARX works better, the only thing I'll use it in the oil from now on and save the MMO for the gas.
About MMO removing rust in an engine........if an engine sits too long in storage or something to that affect, the oil will drain off of the upper engine parts and expose the bare metals of the engine (cylinder walls, etc) and light surface rust will develop. MMO states that it will remove that light surface rust. I have never let an engine sit that long so I can't tell you that MMO would in fact work as described.
I can get MMO or Rislone at times for $2 a quart.
I've never had low oil PSI with either dosed full strength one quart per OCI.
If you're worried about oil thinning, simply reduce dosage to pint and use 1 quart of oil thicker then normal during that OCI.
If you've periodically used Gunk or other flush product, then why bother changing what you're doing????? You're at 200k and engine still runs. Keep practicing your OCIs and your periodic Gunk flushes.
You do NOT need to run out and buy whatever product everyone is trying to sell you.
What kills motors is inadequate maintenance intervals with low quality oils. Doesn't make a difference whether an engine is new or old. Various products can work effectively.
I've never had low oil PSI with either dosed full strength one quart per OCI.
If you're worried about oil thinning, simply reduce dosage to pint and use 1 quart of oil thicker then normal during that OCI.
If you've periodically used Gunk or other flush product, then why bother changing what you're doing????? You're at 200k and engine still runs. Keep practicing your OCIs and your periodic Gunk flushes.
You do NOT need to run out and buy whatever product everyone is trying to sell you.
What kills motors is inadequate maintenance intervals with low quality oils. Doesn't make a difference whether an engine is new or old. Various products can work effectively.
In older engines it's tough to get enough solvent to the piston rings to clean them and still lubricate your cylinder walls. I'm new to Auto-Rx but it looks like the answer to cleaning the rings up. I'm in the middle of a two-bottle dose test with Lonnie and will publish the results. We've been working with Frank Miller and his chemist. Here is one word of advise. Two bottle appears to be working with a 1k clean cycle but don't use three bottles in the average passenger car.
Want another tip. If you rebuild an engine run a short first interval, 1k miles with a bottle of Auto-Rx to clean the engine up. Then move on to your normal break in or whatever. Threat the next 3k miles as a rinse. So at 4k miles you ready to go with a clean, rebuilt engine.
If you're interested I'll publish some more tips as we finish testing.
Want another tip. If you rebuild an engine run a short first interval, 1k miles with a bottle of Auto-Rx to clean the engine up. Then move on to your normal break in or whatever. Threat the next 3k miles as a rinse. So at 4k miles you ready to go with a clean, rebuilt engine.
If you're interested I'll publish some more tips as we finish testing.
interesting tip BarkerMan!
Thanks for sharing. I may look into that on a high mileage Corolla this weekend with short bursts of AutoRx cleaning regimen..
Q.
Thanks for sharing. I may look into that on a high mileage Corolla this weekend with short bursts of AutoRx cleaning regimen..
Q.
Was reading this thread before going to parts store to buy "lubeguard engine flush" (couldn't find it anywhere). Anyway, the guy there had tried gunk engine flush and he said his engine failed 7k miles later! Further reinforcement of what was said above about solvent flushes (I think Lubeguard is different though right?). Anyway, since I couldn't find lubeguard I ordered the auto rx.
I do wish there was a proven solution that worked faster without negative results but the very thing that makes them work fast is what causes the problems as I understand it.
I do wish there was a proven solution that worked faster without negative results but the very thing that makes them work fast is what causes the problems as I understand it.
Originally Posted By: saaber1
Was reading this thread before going to parts store to buy "lubeguard engine flush" (couldn't find it anywhere). Anyway, the guy there had tried gunk engine flush and he said his engine failed 7k miles later! Further reinforcement of what was said above about solvent flushes (I think Lubeguard is different though right?). Anyway, since I couldn't find lubeguard I ordered the auto rx.
I do wish there was a proven solution that worked faster without negative results but the very thing that makes them work fast is what causes the problems as I understand it.
A stranger tells you that his engine failed after using a motor flush, and you take that as conclusive? For all we know, his engine was messed up to begin with. Sorry, but that is anecdotal at best.
Gunk Motor Flush is sold at literally thousands of auto stores, Walmart, you name it, and if it caused catastrophic engine failure to a large degree, surely it would be in the news, don't you think?
If you want more anecdotal proof of the safety of Gunk Motor Flush, my father has used it in several cars for a combined 600,000 miles over many years, and he never had an engine failure.
Was reading this thread before going to parts store to buy "lubeguard engine flush" (couldn't find it anywhere). Anyway, the guy there had tried gunk engine flush and he said his engine failed 7k miles later! Further reinforcement of what was said above about solvent flushes (I think Lubeguard is different though right?). Anyway, since I couldn't find lubeguard I ordered the auto rx.
I do wish there was a proven solution that worked faster without negative results but the very thing that makes them work fast is what causes the problems as I understand it.
A stranger tells you that his engine failed after using a motor flush, and you take that as conclusive? For all we know, his engine was messed up to begin with. Sorry, but that is anecdotal at best.
Gunk Motor Flush is sold at literally thousands of auto stores, Walmart, you name it, and if it caused catastrophic engine failure to a large degree, surely it would be in the news, don't you think?
If you want more anecdotal proof of the safety of Gunk Motor Flush, my father has used it in several cars for a combined 600,000 miles over many years, and he never had an engine failure.
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