Pushing my compressor to the max

[bmwtechguy]

Jim, the compressor oil does not have to deal with byproducts of combustion, which is the main thing the TBN alkaline reserve capacity is there for in engine oil. Different additives are used in compressors than internal combustion engines due to the vast temp differences and lack of combustion process in a compressor. In the case of the compressor, some of the engine oil additives can actually be a detriment to the valves in the head of the compressor. At a friend's shop, they were running castrol 10W-40 engine oil in their large transmission shop compressors and having to replace or repair way too often and those big compressors are EXPENSIVE. The compressors would have to work harder and hotter as they lost efficiency, eventually stopped compressing altogether. My friend, the son-in-law, had started using Amsoil products and, on his own, took an interest in the shop compressors outside in the shed, changing out the engine oil for Amsoil's PC series compressor oil, using SAE 20, 40 and mostly a mixture of the two. To the owner's delight, their repairs and replacements on these 2 air compressors was reduced to zero. Granted, the compressors really had no one looking after them before this time, so any kind of attention or fluid replacement had to have helped the situation. After his success, I began using the same compressor oils and found that the PC series works well, but the part I like is that it supposedly has 8X the service life, so I should not have to change it as often as I would regular compressor oil, which has little, if any additives.
FWIW, I saw the same blurb on the Schaeffer website about their PAO compressor oils: 8X the life, or possibly better with oil analysis, so Amsoil's claim may be realistic. I've heard that Amsoil is very competitive pricewise in the industrial lubes market when comparing apples to apples. I can't remember how much I paid for a case of PC series compressor oil, but it seems like it was around $7 a quart or thereabouts.

 

[oil pan 4]

The compressor manufacturer I'm sure at some point would like you to buy a new compressor.
After several years of service of course.
Amsoil should have a reason why there oil is better then what the manufacturer recomends. And I bet they can back it up.

 

[Mokanic]

My shop's compressor is only 4 years old but it cost me an arm and a leg and I wanted the best I could get at that time becouse the big units can take your breath away to pay to fix. I didn't have any experience with different compressor oils at that time so I bought Amsoil based on the product's reputation. After about 5hrs running time I drained the factory mineral oil out and installed the Amsoil. It's been in there running every day and so far the appearance of it on the sight glass is just as clear as the day I put it in. I fully believe it will run 8Xs longer as well as Schaeffer's PAO oil would. I am adamant about keeping the filters replaced and the tank drained. This thing has to last me a lifetime to get my money out of it!

 

[Jaybird]

One of the most important things to consider when choosing a compressor oil, is the compatibility with the seals. For this reason alone I like to use comp. specific fluids. Oil that gets past the seals degrades the air quality downstream.

I'm very curious as to how often you have to change out tips on your Pl cutter?
I had used one for years, and was very good at keeping the tip nice, but there comes a time when the tip will blow out and foul. Plasma users know what I'm talking about. Anywho, after I became a bit more familiar with air systems, I found that the key to plasma tip longevity is the quality of the air supply. All cutters have a mickey mouse FR on the unit, but they are pretty much useless. But with a proper set up, I have personally seen a single plasma tip remain useful for months and months of daily use. It was one of the things that intrigued me enough to study deeper into the air filtration game.

I found that with the proper drains, filters, and other apparatus, systems could provide such clean dry air, that properly lubricated tools can last almost indefinitely, even with near 100% duty cycles.
But sadly, it seems that air filtration is looked at like lubrication used to be. I often see high tech factories with ancient, nightmare-ish air systems, full of water, rust, and hydrocarbons.

Replaceable filters are a waste of money and time. They should only be considered as a part of a system, and can really only offer a very temporary moisture solution. If the compressor is not fitted properly, those filters can only handle a small fraction of the moisture that even a small compressor will throw at it. Not to mention that if you use the wrong oil, and the seals leak, it will almost immediately foul the desiccant in any of the filters downstream.
To get rid of the water and hydrocarbons on a continuous basis, you must use drains and coalescing filtration.

 

[another Todd]

My compressor also says to use mobil 1 10-30, which is what I put in there. I would use the amsoil 30 weight but it is only sold in 5 gallon pails. I think the 40 weight (quarts are available) is to thick ( and not speced).

 

[Steve S]

How hot does the oil get ? That is what is most important, how much oil goes to the head? M1 oil will be fine .

 

[hi-miler]

What brought me to this site in the first place was oil related problems with air compressors. My strong suggestion is that you use only synthetic. Period! My preference is Amsoil. The price is right and the product is dependable.