aluminum grease and anti-seize

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mjoekingz28

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I have an old car that I want to be easily repairable. This means whenever a bolt comes out, it goes back in with some grease.

I must admit I am new to greases and have been using 'peanut butter' grease, but I feel that while it works, there must be a better grease out there. There was a busted tube of black Moly at walmart, so I snuck a dab and noticed it was really smooth and creamy- not tacky. SO I've been favoring Moly, until I took the wheels off and thought the dealer left some aluminum grease on my threads after lubing the wheel bearings. I later realized it is probably antiseize.

So is antiseize anything like aluminum complex? From the directory it looks like aluminum is the ultimate grease, since it is waterproof, mixes with most anything, and is probably the slickest grease out there, but I can't seem to find any anywhere.

Just wondering if there is a multi-purpose grease out there. Now, I use wheel bearing grease because if it can oil wheel bearings then it seems there is nothing it can't do. Instead of having a grease for each specific job, just get the best and coat everything with it and not worry.
 
anti sieze is a "high" solid grease can be copper or graphite or moly normaly grease has 3-5% moly lets say an antisieze will have 50-70% moly.
bruce
 
Antiseize is a complately different animal from grease. Antiseize is a suspension of fine metal flakes in an organic carrier.

Your first sentence describes my attitude to a tee. All bolts on my cars get a coating of antiseize before I put them back together. That's what antiseize is made for. My first jar of antiseize lasted 20 years. I don't know why you would consider using grease over antiseize for this use. Though I understand your not wanting to stock every special grease on your shelf, antiseize is not a grease.
 
Originally Posted By: bruce381
""Antiseize is a suspension of fine metal flakes in an organic carrier.""

didn't I say that
bruce

Yes, in a way you did... at about the same time I was composing my post.
 
I wouldn't use a grease for bolts myself especially if it has moly in it cause it will eventually back out by itself if it is any good grease. use anti-seize for bolts.
 
Bolts that are meant to hold things together shall not have any grease or so on it's threads for thermalcycle+vibration will eventually undo themselves over time. If you want easy service and yet the ability to hold/retain the nut/bolt in place, use low torque thread sealer instead.

The engineers who designed the vehicle at the first place would have anticipate thousands of miles of worry-free service w/o parts falling apart, or threads come undone. Your addition of antiseize to the bolts/nuts for ease of service may have impose additional problems down the road (and safety issues too).

My 2c's worth. Afterall: it's your safety and $$, not mine.
 
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I've never lost one bolt off of any of my vehicles or machines and I anti-seize everything. I still have all the lug nuts, all fully functioning spark plugs, non-leaking manifolds, electric motors, idler pulleys, turbines, brake parts, mufflers, etc that I have worked on.
 
Originally Posted By: tom slick
I've never lost one bolt off of any of my vehicles or machines and I anti-seize everything. I still have all the lug nuts, all fully functioning spark plugs, non-leaking manifolds, electric motors, idler pulleys, turbines, brake parts, mufflers, etc that I have worked on.


+1..Working on commercial/industrial equipment, far more problems from corroded/jammed/snapped dry fasteners than properly anti-seized ones.

Just make sure to use the proper product for the material composition. IE: Steel fasteners in aluminum should use zinc anti seize, not copper. Nickel for high heat, copper for general steel to steel. Also, reduce the torque applied about 20% when assembling anti-seized fasteners vs dry thread value.

Drew
 
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Good posts guys. When I take stuff apart and reassemble I pretty much always use antiseize. I don't depend on corrosion to keep my fasteners in place.
blush.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Drew2000
Just make sure to use the proper product for the material composition. IE: Steel fasteners in aluminum should use zinc anti seize, not copper. Nickel for high heat, copper for general steel to steel. Also, reduce the torque applied about 20% when assembling anti-seized fasteners vs dry thread value.

Drew
Many don't realize that one of anti-seize functions is to prevent galvanic corrosion, and many times will use the wrong product.

I have also seen lots of bolt failures due to lubricated threads. I think many don't know about the necessity to reduce the dry bolt torque value, and as a result bolts get stretched past their yield point when taking the wrench to dry bolt spec.

The 20-30% reduction of torque needs to take place no matter the lubricant used, be it anti-seize, grease, or thread lock.

I will first assume the competent engineer wants me to use a clean, dry, bolt when providing me a dry bolt spec. Especially if he provides lubricated values elsewhere.
 
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Originally Posted By: (link)
"A stainless steel, graphite, aluminum based anti-seize compound formulated to protect up to 2200ºF against seizure and galling, galvanic and severe environmental corrosion. It was specifically designed for applications that cannot use nickel based products. Tested to MIL-A-907."

This product was designed for applications where you can't use nickel-based neverseize. This implies that it is less effective than nickel-based neverseize. Unless you need to avoid nickel in your turbo, I'd say use the superior nickel-based neverseize. That's what I've been using for the past 25 years.
 
I have some Ceramlube break grease (~70% solids) that is rated for around 2200F. I would think this would be a great anti-seize for high temp applications. Not that I have anything that gets that hot...
 
I was also going to use some on the gasket surfaces for the exhaust manifold and turbo. I was thinking about using SS vs Ni since it should transfer less heat. Would you guys even bother?
Bendix Ceramlub sounds interesting, what parts stores sell it?
 
The main applications of aluminum anti-seize in auto industry are bolts of wheel hub, because it white color.
 
Quote:
Bendix Ceramlub sounds interesting, what parts stores sell it?

I had to get mine on line. Not cheap, but the stuff is great.
 
Originally Posted By: Jaybird
Originally Posted By: Drew2000
Just make sure to use the proper product for the material composition. IE: Steel fasteners in aluminum should use zinc anti seize, not copper. Nickel for high heat, copper for general steel to steel. Also, reduce the torque applied about 20% when assembling anti-seized fasteners vs dry thread value.

Drew
Many don't realize that one of anti-seize functions is to prevent galvanic corrosion, and many times will use the wrong product.

I have also seen lots of bolt failures due to lubricated threads. I think many don't know about the necessity to reduce the dry bolt torque value, and as a result bolts get stretched past their yield point when taking the wrench to dry bolt spec.

The 20-30% reduction of torque needs to take place no matter the lubricant used, be it anti-seize, grease, or thread lock.

I will first assume the competent engineer wants me to use a clean, dry, bolt when providing me a dry bolt spec. Especially if he provides lubricated values elsewhere.




I didn't follow your post too well Jaybird. But what I'm thinking you said is to use different torque values on a dry bolt versus one with anti-seize.
 
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