What tranny oil? 97 Ford taurus

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
May 29, 2006
Messages
50
Location
Poco B.C. Canada
Okay, second question, I bought a used 1997 Ford Taurus, boss here says change the tranny oil regularly and do annual maintenance and he found his 1996 was a good car.

So my question is that it calls for it looks like straight Mercon atf, but someone told me our stuff we get here is the one I should use, it is a Mercon SP and I am wondering if I can use it in place of Mercon or if the SP designation means something?
Anyone know?
 
Mercon V is the type you'll want. Mercon is technically obsolete, and Mercon V is upgraded for the newer transmissions to prevent torque converter shudder.

Mercon SP is for the newer trucks and is not recommended for a Mercon V replacement.
 
Mobil 1 is a quality ATF, and easy to find.
FORD back spec'd Mercon V to cover the Mercon spec'd transmissions with TSB # 06-14-4.
This TSB supercedes earlier TSB's that stated NOT to use Mercon V in Mercon applications.
I think that your vehicle already called for Mercon V (a look at the print on the dipstick will tell you), but I mention this just in case......

Mercon SP is different stuff, and should NOT be used in your vehicle.

As a side note, I would also change the Power Steering Fluid in there......but DO NOT use "Power Steering Fluid".
Your vehicle uses ATF (Mercon) for power steering fluid.
The Mobil 1 ATF would be an excellent choice there as well.
 
'97 was the last year for good old regular Mercon in the Taurus.

Use any Mercon-V or any universal/multivehicle ATF. Upgrade to synth if in your budget. I'd bet that DexronVI would work well too.
But, you will likely have a failure that is NOT fluid related so fancy fluid isn't needed.
Keep an eye on transmission killing speed sensors and failing solenoids. The TSBs on this transmission are worth reading. Any shift confusion needs to be addressed instantly. Common issues are a transmission that functions well based on temperature and becomes confused otherwise, or not up/downshifting as needed like starting off in 2nd/3rd at a stop sign.

Since vehicle is a decade old, you should drop the pan for cleaning and filter replacement.
 
Well we are not running the Ford 450's anymore, so I went tonight to work and found an old 20 litre pail of Mercon, so looks like I have a bit of oil to try.

We have all GMC 5500's and we use transynd in those, so they had buried the pail in a corner and it had been forgotten, not even a lable anymore, but it had our unique company number on it, so I was able to verify what the contents were, and once I cut the lid open, as they came with a solid lid, no pouring spout, I was able to tell it was new, and unused.
And of course clean.
So this should be good.
 
The Mercon is still fine to use.
FORD phased it out and Mercon V is the replacement.
Mercon V is a tighter specification, and was supposed to address "shudder" issues in newer vehicles.
Mobil 1 is a synthetic, and it worked great for me, in hot and below zero winter weather.
The important thing is to change the fluid.
My Windstar documentation says to change the transmission fluid every 30K miles for normal service, and every 21K Miles for "severe" service.
These intervals call for a complete fluid exchange, not just a pan drop, which gets about 6 quarts of the 12.25 quart capacity.
Some members here have installed drain plugs on their transmission pans and done a drain and refill of the pan at each oil change.
I prefer to just do a fluid exchange once a year.
 
Nothing beats 'free' ATF. Transynd would be a good choice.
Ford allows cooling line flushing for the backyard mechanic. Simple drop the pan, change the filter, refill the pan, overfill it by a gallon, and pump the pan contents(including the overfilled amount) through the disconnect cooler by running the engine.
 
Turns out it is Mercon V but that still should be good, as it is the upgrade from Mercon if I understand correctly.
And I think I will try your flush for this tranny.
Thanks unDummy and the others for the input.
 
if the Taurus has an unknown AT service history
run the new MerconV thru in the flush until the outflow is the same color as the new.
may take 10>15 quarts

add an inline filter in the neoprene flex cooler hose

most MerV's are part synthetic to meet spec.

free ATF is a very good price
 
Thanks for the info, bought my filter and gasket set today, they list at 61.00, but I got it for 32.00, hard to believe what they charge for parts.
 
I should have mentioned this.
The pan gasket may be re-usable, if it is still the OEM.
The OEM, re-usable, gasket is much better than one of those cork ones.

Take a look at the top of the new ATF filter neck.
There is a gasket there.
When you remove the old filter, the gasket from that old filter tends to stick up in the transmission.
It has to be removed before the new filter will seat up in there.
The gasket is a metal with a neoprine coating.
I use something to bent an edge of the stuck gasket, then use needle nose pliers to pull it out.

The total fluid capacity of the transmission is 12.25 quarts, if it is the same as on the windstar (same tranny).
I would do the FULL fluid exchange.
I like to drop the pan, wipe down the pan and magnet, etc and install the new filter first.
Then with a clean place for the fluid to start from, I fill with fluid in the amount that came out in the pan drop, and procede with the fluid exchange process.
 
Last edited:
I am curious to see how much material is in the pan, it does say in the instructions that if it has the reuseable gasket to not use theirs in the box and to go to Ford to get the right one.

In all the pans I have dropped on trucks and cars I have not seen too much material, but who knows what I will find on this one.
 
I would also change the power steering fluid, it will call for either a Type F or Mercon ATF don't know the year that they changed from one to the other, don't use the clear / amber "Power Steering" fluid.

Another thing that I would recommend, bleed a bit of brake fluid from each wheel.
It is amazing how dirty it gets.
I have had it come out looking like coffee.
Bleed each wheel until it comes out clear.
Use ONLY fresh fluid from a sealed bottle that you open at the time you use it.
A bottle that has been opened and left sitting for a year or so may have taken up moisture, and not be suitable for use.
The shop instructions for changing brake linings have you remove the cap on the master cylinder.....remove some fluid....and push the piston in....forcing the extra fluid back up into the master cylinder.....and no bleeding is called for.
The fluid gets it's abuse right at each wheel, and that is the fluid that it would be best to get out of there.

While at each wheel, inspect the brakes, and spray them down with brake cleaner, including the ABS sensor and "exciter ring" which looks like a gear.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top