Castrol GTX vs Mobil 1

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This is for a brand new civic 08, this will be the first oil change after break-in oil. I am planning 5,000 mile intervals.
At walmart castrol is 11$ and mobil one is 22$. Which do you guys think i should use or is there something inbetween that is worth it.
 
5000 mile intervals in a honda, stick with GTX. no need for a synthetic in this case.
 
i would say any synthetic oil over conventional oil, if you have a new car, go with 0W-30 grade

if u use synthetic oil the oil pressure will keep at the very consistant level for at least 5000miles, for regular oil the oil pressure may drop a bit b4 5000 miles
 
if you are going 5k intervals you will not really see the benefits of synthetic except for when it is really cold in NY.
-In my 08 corolla I am running penzoil 5w30. Maybe run the syn in the winter and dino all other times if you like. I am actually doing 3qrts pen dino, 1.5qrts Pen platinum syn-5w30.
-short answer though, 5k intervals gtx, pen, havoline-any good conventional will get you 5K no problems~
 
I am going to use my GTX for the warm month's. I will use the SYNTEC for winter month's. It keeps me from having to change the oil during the cold times.
cheers.gif
 
Quote:


i would say any synthetic oil over conventional oil, if you have a new car, go with 0W-30 grade

if u use synthetic oil the oil pressure will keep at the very consistant level for at least 5000miles, for regular oil the oil pressure may drop a bit b4 5000 miles




1. For a brand new Honda it should be 0w20 or 5w20.
2. Can someone show evidence that a regular oil mayb not hold good oil pressure for 5000 miles?

Quote:


I am going to use my GTX for the warm month's. I will use the SYNTEC for winter month's. It keeps me from having to change the oil during the cold times.
cheers.gif





The cold times is what makes a man out of you
laugh.gif
 
Quote:


i would say any synthetic oil over conventional oil, if you have a new car, go with 0W-30 grade




I agree. 5K OCI or not, cold weather or not, synthetics flow easier (= faster) than dinos. Even a 0w grade is not ideal at startup, but it is better than a 5w.

Oil pressure has little to do with how well the engine is lubricated. Flow is a more important factor than pressure IMO.
 
Someone replied me with the following when I was question syn vs dino..what do you all think?
******************************************************

Advantages of synthetic oil and why they don't work for your situation.

1. Oxidative stability of synthetic base oil can endure high temperatures such as in Turbo Chargers as well as extend drain intervals.
(your oil will still be water logged with the acids forming as the water reacts with combustion byproducts, you have no turbo and extended drains with acid forming in the crankcase is not recommended.
2 Extreme low temperature flow is an advantage of synthetics. I use it in my arctic work truck. I often have temperatures of -30 to -40f where i work and this is the only ways the trucks can start.
(Your winter is not cold enough to see any tangible benefit in start up protection between the conventional and synthetic)
3. Stronger additive package for extended drains.
Yes the TBN is higher, but unless you run it long enough each time you start the caravan you are leaving moisture in the crankcase which is going to attack any oil just as fast.

If all your trips were 10 or more miles I would say you could go synthetic but extend the drain. However since the duty cycle is actually severe duty because of the soccer mom routine With the required short OCI's I see no advantage at all, in protection, performance or otherwise in running a synthetic motor oil. If you like to give money away I can provide you with my Paypal, I actually gave you something worthwhile.
 
Syns always flow better (when comparing to a dino of the same weight) than conventional oils. Since 90% of wear is caused at startup, I see syns very valuable in reducing wear.
 
I do between 3.5K and 4K OCI w/ PP synthetic and a Toyota filter. Only $0.50 more than conventional, and paying $2.00 more for better startup flow is money well spent in my eyes.

My driving style would fall under the header of "severe", hence my short OCI. Acids build up regardless of the oil type.
 
Quote:


I do between 3.5K and 4K OCI w/ PP synthetic and a Toyota filter. Only $0.50 more than conventional, and paying $2.00 more for better startup flow is money well spent in my eyes.

My driving style would fall under the header of "severe", hence my short OCI. Acids build up regardless of the oil type.




However, there is a BITOG member (Bill in Utah) who has logged hundreds of thousands of miles on his vehicles. A couple of them over 250k and one over 300K and he lives in climates more estreme than most of us..extreme subzero's and drives short trips and usues CONVENTIONAL only. You think he needs synthetic?
 
Well if you have any fuel dilution issues you would want a more robust add pack to handle that...but normal ( whatever that is) driving with 5K OCI's...Castrol GTX would be my choice.
 
heathenbrewing, what do you think of Bill in Utah who has logged hundreds of thousands of miles on his vehicles. A couple of them over 250k and one over 300K and he lives in climates more estreme than most of us..extreme subzero's and drives short trips and usues CONVENTIONAL only. You think he needs synthetic?

YOu still think that the oil companies ---- marketing scheme of synthetic is still up your back alley?
smile.gif
 
sort of funny how all conversation about pro-synthetic comes to a screaching halt when someone comes through with information as I stated above.
 
FYI - I will respond when I can, but I do have more important things to do.

I never said that anyone "needs" to use synthetics. Bill in Utah MAY have gotten even more miles if he used syns, but that is neither here nor there.

All I said was that:

1) Syns flow better at colder temps. Since engines are coldest after they have sat unused overnight AND since most wears occur at startup, the quicker oil flows in this situation, the less wear occurs.

2) For an extra $2 per oil change, my engines will be getting syns only.
 
Quote:


5k oil changes are dino territory.




OR like me, find syns buy one get one free or whatever. bc i rarely go over 5k miles on my oil changes but i dont pay full price for syns either. if i cant find a syn on sale its penzoil or gtx.
 
Quote:


Someone replied me with the following when I was question syn vs dino..what do you all think?
******************************************************

Advantages of synthetic oil and why they don't work for your situation.

1. Oxidative stability of synthetic base oil can endure high temperatures such as in Turbo Chargers as well as extend drain intervals.
(your oil will still be water logged with the acids forming as the water reacts with combustion byproducts, you have no turbo and extended drains with acid forming in the crankcase is not recommended.
2 Extreme low temperature flow is an advantage of synthetics. I use it in my arctic work truck. I often have temperatures of -30 to -40f where i work and this is the only ways the trucks can start.
(Your winter is not cold enough to see any tangible benefit in start up protection between the conventional and synthetic)
3. Stronger additive package for extended drains.
Yes the TBN is higher, but unless you run it long enough each time you start the caravan you are leaving moisture in the crankcase which is going to attack any oil just as fast.

If all your trips were 10 or more miles I would say you could go synthetic but extend the drain. However since the duty cycle is actually severe duty because of the soccer mom routine With the required short OCI's I see no advantage at all, in protection, performance or otherwise in running a synthetic motor oil. If you like to give money away I can provide you with my Paypal, I actually gave you something worthwhile.




haha like the end of last sentence, but is true
 
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