They probably too all-season, if it is possible to use such expression. Of course, this does not mean that they are bad. How comfortable and quiet are they?
I don't find them noisy or uncomfortable; they suit the more laid-back nature of a base Cooper. I put a set of Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ tires on the Club Sport, and they are just outstanding in that application.
Be nice if we could get some good pain killers out of all this. Something better than blue emu or bengay, but without the stoning effects. Wouldn’t it be nice if some pharmaceutical company found a replacement for OxyContin that didn’t have it’s addictive traits. As marijuana comes on as a mainstream product, perhaps this will take place. The only benefit I see....
In Canada Shell advertises that the V-Power fuel has no ethanol content. The same volume of ethanol packs less energy than gasoline which means in theory, it takes more to deliver the same power which should translate to higher MPG.
There are a bunch of reports on various Tokyo Roki filters on subaruforester.org, one of the mods made a project out of cutting open all kinds of oil filters with the "correct" bypass pressure and some without it. I find the Tokyo Rokis to be of very solid construction, but I don't think there was anything super special about the internals from the reports I saw.
Just looking for input. Been using regular Mobil 1 For years. Thought I’d try this 37$ stuff in out Camry Hybrid. Looking at a 10000 mile change. Very easy during highway, no stop and go.
You might not be able to see the difference with your eyes. Your pistons will be cleaner though using M1 AP, that is, IF there are actual scientists & engineers at Exxon-Mobil who back this as advanced chemistry to lower the amount of cumulative oil oxidation. These scientists & engineers do exist, that's for sure. ... Some Prius and other Toyota engines have had rings gumming up, so you could benefit from cleaner pistons.
Am installing this afternoon a set of 4 Toyo celsius on my 2017 RX350. Couldn't find anyone interested in buying my Michelins with 12.000Km for $20 each so they'll end up in the dump probably. For where I am these all wethers will do me fine and I won't have to change tires twice a year/ I had Nokians WRG3 which I'd have preferred, on an Outback that i sold a month ago, but the new WG4 don't come in 235/55/20 in north america, Michelin also make an all weather, but not available here. So I went for what I could find that was of good quality. Betcha that because I'm set for snow we'll see nary a flake :-)
A series of UOAs and observations of others’ UOAs tells me:
I get roughly 1.7 ppm iron per thousand miles, using Motorcraft oil. If I switch to quality synthetic, I can get that down to 1 ppm iron per thousand miles.
My question: Does the difference matter? That is, does getting it down to 1ppm iron translate into another 25K or so in miles before the engine winks out?
With your research showing that there is 170% of the wear using MC oil vs synthetic, IMO that is enough indication to use synthetic. Yes we are only talking ppm, but at a level approaching twice the wear your engine will be done earlier using MC. Wear is wear, whether it is measured in ppm, microns of metal wear in the engine,or some other metric.
That said, other engines may behave differently than your engine...so a series of UOAs for your engine on different oils will be more accurate than a series of UOAs on other engines.
The paint work alone will probably cost you more than the vehicle's worth...
A Suburban should only take three or maybe four quarts of Rustoleum plus some paint thinner, rollers and (wet) sandpaper. It may not look perfect but it will look better.
You can buy Rustoleum by the gallon. Having said that, I would only use the marine version of Rustoleum, since it has built in UV protection and regular Rustoleum does not. Lowes near me stocks it. I think Tractor Supply has something similar as well. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-Marine-Topside-Paint/163565901 I have no idea if this can be bought by the gallon.
Note: Even regular Rustoleum will hold up better then MAACO's cheapest paint.
Polaris labs through amsoil, it’s a 6.0 PSD and it’s driving me nuts because I just replaced the injectors to hopefully fix the issue, my theory is it may be residual left over from up in the HPOP because it was less than before
I haven't seen much promising info about longer drain intervals, except in their HDEO's...which I am not using. I'd like to go 8-10k miles per OCI if I could. I figured the boost in TBN from Archoil was just buying me some additional insurance.
Have you seen my UOA history? If the non-HD 0W-30 and "low ash" 15W-40 could work that well in that engine with my lead foot for 4k-7k+, I don't think you have anything to worry about unless something's seriously wrong with your car.
Also, I wonder if there's a sampling bias in the UOAs you've seen. I have to imagine RLI users are more likely than average to have something uniquely tough about their applications.
Unless RLI has drastically changed their formulations in the last few years, even the non-HD ones are LOADED with additives. Tons of ZDDP and Ca. Enough to scare me off, for whatever that's worth; that's one of the reasons I don't use or recommend them any more. On top of that, their chemistry is so new and so unique that I'm not even sure they understand it fully, let alone I or Archoil or anyone else. Adding more additive would be the very last thing on my mind with these oils.
Which oil is "better"?: Mobil 1 Annual Protection 5W30, 5 qt -- $40 Mobil 1 0W-40 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 qt. --$25
I have a 2007 Saab 9-3 2.0T -- I believe the owner's manual calls for 5W-30, but most "Saab guys" use 0W-40.
Is either one group IV or V ; "fully" POA or ester based? To me it's seems like the one that cost 60% more should be the better oil or should be more "synthetic", also it suppose to last longer.
regardless of cost which one is "better"? Going to be winter in NH sooner.
More of my "thinking": What seems to happen in American markets or markets in general is some one created hype about something (i.e. a brand, a model, a spec, a certification, but can be literally anything) then the corporations make that product cheaper and cheaper and it has little do with the safety/performance of the original products.