Trouble-Shooting 1) NIC lights are normal - solid orange (speed) and flashing yellow (activity). 2) Modem lights are all normal. 3) Did a "ipconfig" command, and it shows the IPv4 Address, Subnet Mask and Default Gateway (screenshot below). 4) All ping test of various internet sites shows normal ping results (screen shot below).
Actions 5) I disabled Bitdefender and the NIC. 6) Rebooted computer - didn't reboot modem. 7) After Windows came back up, I enabled the NIC card with connection via Cat5 cable. 8) Left Bitdefender disabled. 9) Have an internet connection.
Will run in this configuration and see if I lose the internet again. Probably is Bitdefender ... time to dump it. I have Window Defender built into Windows 7, so might try that instead if this test shows no more lose of internet. If it still does, then I'll uninstall Bitdefender.
Different oils for different applications, also different part of the world I'd say. I wish I could get the SHU 5W40 here, but can only get the T6 in 5W40 or 0W40, sadly. But it's good to know I'll be able to find the 10W60 at every Maserati dealer
My local NAPA sells Valvoline XL-III which is a VW 504.00/507.00 product. I buy it in 5 gallon boxes but that's likely more than you'd need. If you have the desire to keep it on hand at home then it is a bit more economical to purchase in this manner (works out to $6.75/quart).
Just did a pan drop and filter change on my 2001 Lincoln Continental AX4N. Measured 6.25-6.50 qts coming out. Put 6.1 qts of SuperTech Mercon V back in. Edited: There's no drain plug and pushing a tube down the dip stick column only goes so far (ie not into the pan area).
AFAIK a 3/8 “ OD plastic tube should be normally able to reach the bottom of the pan on a AX4N.
I think it is wise to go through the range of metabolic processes frequently. I've read recetnly that constant feeding is actually bad, because your body never goes through the stages of flipping over to producing it's own energy rather than getting it from food. This points to fasting being good.
It is really there for lawsuits. Btw SOME of the new vehicles you DO have to let the dealer install them, they have modules on them that are actually programmed by the vehicle ECU once installed to *do* the fancy LED stuff, often tied into the same circut as the lower fogs/signal lights, it's all one big system with data lines to ECU.......pulls hair out.
My parent's Lexus has adaptive front headlights, which in this case is a bi-xenon projector mounted on a gimbal which allows the left headlight to tilt up to -15 degrees (turning left) and the right headlight to tilt 5 degrees(turning right) and there's a leveling feature to keep the HIDs from dazzling oncoming traffic(required by EU regulations, not so much by DOT). You can see the headlights dip up and down when they are first turned on to check the motion on the y-axis. The system relies on the steering angle sensor, suspension level sensor and an ECU.
On newer cars with multi-LED array headlights like on newer Audis, Benzes and some Lexus models with triple-beam LED headlamps, the AFS function can be done by switching off an LED or two, or what Audi calls a "pixel".
Interesting. I read that Mercedes does 12 degrees, both sides. When you first turn them on, they do swivel from side to side by what appears to be an equal amount. Only way to really notice it while driving is to turn the steering wheel while driving in a parking lot at night. Otherwise, you kinda just notice that the road is illuminated instead of the guard rail when you're driving on a curve at night.
Also it's nice to have the sticker on there, it's one way to tell when buying a used car whether it has bixenons or not.
You've got a Barchetta. Wouldn't be red, would it? (Sorry. Rush fan here. )
I would think it would depend on how much you're driving it during the winter. If not many miles, you should be okay with a simple brand name filter. If a lot of miles (5000 or more) a Fram Ultra is a great choice. Gives you a peace of mind whether you're driving 5000 or 10,000 miles. Highly recommended on this board.
I run 5w-40 year round, but I have run lots of 10w-40 and 15w-40 in my big blocks over the years. All are fine. Back in the day when I was running Ford Cleveland motors it was all straight 30 or straight 40, but I was in So Cal at the time. Your choice of 15w-40 is a good one.
I think you're one of those dolt-Right types who believes in anything that feeds your own set of personal of grievances (of which I suspect there are many).
Yes, diesel particulates are harmful which is why every European diesel that's come off the production line in the last decade has been fitted with a particulate trap. I remember being at Stuttgart talking to Daimler about them not long after the turn of the millennium so lots of cars were being fitted with traps long before they became mandatory. It's very hard to blow black smoke through a trap's ceramic matrix. At worst your going to see a transient 'blip' of smoke when you floor the accelerator & drop down a couple of gears. I see that from time to time & yes it's annoying but 'great belches of black smoke'? I think you're over-egging that particular pudding mate.
And 'green propaganda'? I think your willfully confusing legitimate product advertising with Dr Goebbels's dark arts. We don't do 'propaganda' here. Was that advertising deeply flawed? Well yes & the OEMs who lied have been punished accordingly.
And 'diesel exhaust being worse than gasoline exhaust'? Again you seem to just want to engage with half the argument. In terms of particulates & NOx, yes but if you factor in CO2, it's not at all straightforward that gasoline engine exhaust is less harmful than diesel exhaust. If it can be said that big European cities have a NOx problem, then North America has a CO2 problem, one which will increasing bite you on the bum unless you start to change some time soon.