It would make no business sense to bottle the same oil and sell it as a generic store brand. There may be some similarities but not exactly the same as Valvoline’s own product lines. This has been discussed many times before.
I wouldn’t be surprised either way. With normal manufacturing variations, how can anyone really tell?
I thought that a lot of oils are basically API qualified with an additive pack combined with a commodity base oil blend. So in that case what does it really cost to make a different oil specifically for house brands, when Lubrizol or Chevron Oronite have already done the development for a more or less generic product.
In "decades gone by", people EARNED their "piece of the pie". They didn't expect the government to steal it for them from someone else. You didn't have people leeching off the government with every social program known to mankind. People pulled their own weight. The only people back then who received benefits from Social Security were the people who actually contributed and paid into those programs.
And there was no Medicare, Obama Care, Welfare, Food Stamps, and all the rest of the government dependent nonsense that started in 1965 with the, "Great Society". All of which have improved nothing, except to make people less dependent on themselves, and more on the government that is going bankrupt trying to pay for it all.
Kids worked their way through college, instead of taking out loans, only to default on them. All the while screaming how the government, "owes them" a free education, job, house, health care, along with everything else they think they deserve. That they base only on the fact they consume oxygen. Back then people paid their own way, and those who came here from south of the border did so legally. And they obeyed our laws when they got here.
Today it has all changed into a free for all, that is bankrupting this nation. And none of it is going to be paid for by, "taxing the rich". Who as of last year, the top 1 percent of accounted for more income taxes paid than the bottom 90 percent combined. Yeah, the "decades gone by" were pretty good years alright, because people provided for themselves. Then came liberalism. And look what happened.
No one is asking for the pie to be stolen... What is being asked for is a fair wage in comparison to living costs today for the same effort expended as it was back then like those of yester-year had it. Wages have been flat for the last 40 years and that is the problem all while the upper classes have accumulated so much wealth it's disgusting. AGAIN, they can have more than the rest but the bottom classes should be fairly compensated in comparison to living costs and that isn't happening today like it used to decades ago. PERIOD.
I do agree with your point to an extent. The wage gap between blue collar and white collar workers has grown over the last several decades...I don't remember the ratio, but it has grown A LOT! I believe the upper levels should make more than the worker bees, but not at the gap we have now...I am not advocating income redistribution though...if someone can figure out a way to do this and still operate within a capitalistic society he/she would become our next president...
I do feel bad for some of the blue collar workers who are my tenants. When people go on and on about how hard the rich work, well I don't consider myself rich, but I basically sit on my butt and do nothing and the money comes in from rentals and investments. And it's way more than anyone making minimum wage. But I didn't work hard for it. What does it mean when reality doesn't jibe with dogma/philosophy?
Battery testers have a low ohm resistance across + and -. Maybe 30 ohms for a AA tester, higher resistance for button cells. If you do a fair amount of battery tests you're better off buying two meters. The battery testers usually have convenient holder shapes for testing common-size batteries that make them more convenient than using needle probes.
Success! A couple of 3/8” carriage bolts, nuts, and washers through the caliper mount did the trick. Perhaps the dousing with Blaster last week helped too. Tightened up the bolts, whacked on the top hat, and there was a pleasant TWANK from each rotor. Took a wire wheel to polish up the hub faces, applied anti-seize, and the new rotors slipped right on.
I'd estimate the duty cycle split (in terms of mileage) 1/3 highway, 2/3 city.
The bulk of the "city" driving was from trips approx. 25-30 minutes in duration.
First sample taken at 3425 miles / 151 hours
Second sample taken at 4676 miles / 205 hours
Oil was NOT changed at first sample. Second sample was taken upon changing oil (but not filter), including the addition of the "polar vortex" with a couple cold starts below -20°F
Yes, the second sample did arrive before the first sample. USPS had it for close to 8 weeks. (That's what happens when you mail it in one of the Blackstone Laboratories kits without putting it inside another box/bag/mailer)
What geeman789 said... I found this out a few years ago when replacing tires on my GFs Hyundai Accent... same Hankook tires as original... balanced twice with it still having vibration or a bumpy ride... which was the out of roundness... did internet search and found out about putting the red dot on the tire with the white dot on the steel wheel... had those matched up and boom... smooth ride... just got the third set of Hankooks put on a couple weeks ago and told the installer to match the dots... worked like a charm... smooth ride. Did the same with a set of Hankook tires that I put on my Nissan pickup last year... matched the red dot to the valve stem on the aluminum wheel... smooth ride.
Changed the valve cover gasket (or cylinder head cover gasket as Honda calls it) on my 2003 Honda Accord 2.4L. Used Honda OEM gasket ($18) but kept the same grommets and spark plug gaskets since the were in good shape.
Pleased to see no sludge and only varnish on the valve cover. Some wear on the cam lobes though.
Car has 146k miles and mostly various brands of conventional oil @ 5-6k OCIs.
Some dirt did fall in when I took the cover off. Should I change oil early? I'm about 3.5k since last change.
Hey s1mp13m4n , The good news is you have a choice, but the next gen rams are dependant on PAO based fluids. Why, because they made them thinner and they need them to stay in grade. Why don't mineral oils stay in grade? Because they dress them up with additives that are temporary, but esters/pao do that job naturally and survive combustion better and survive the heat of a transmsion better. Now, the new generation ram transmsions operate much high temps, so they need redline type products, many options then just redline, but your transmsion doesn't or shouldn't operate in that temp range. If it does, they make a fluid for you as well, if it doesn't, then just use atf4. But that is not to say there wouldn't be benefit from using those better base stocks that are required as the demands of the fluid go up.
Just like the search for gf-6, soon there will be a gf-6 and likely there will be a gf-6 a and a gf-6 b, and the gf6-b will likely be required to have base stocks greater then group 3. That is what the gov't and oil engineers say, not hard to find those papers. You answer that question why, and that answers every question why someone should considering using them in other applications. Not necessary, but beneficial all the same. group 3 oil is as "dressed" up as it can be, they can no longer use smoke and mirrors to make it "better". Now, ester and pao does those funstions naturally, and need less of these temporary additives that leave an application vulnerable at the end of an interval. Now, if your ram is nothing more then a commuter car or around town car type of truck, then just use a cheap atf4 and use it often. Quick Flushes with that transmsion are very easy, never run the torque converter dry, just empty pan contents and replace, very safe.
Use 5w30 if you have consumption issues. Even then, get into the habit of checking the oil after every fuel up like Honda states in the owners manual. Engine at operating temp and engine off for 10 min.
Oh yeah I forgot to mention. His valves as seen through the plastic intake were clean as a whistle. It was too hard to take a picture because the black plastic intake tubes aren't the easiest to get a camera shot of but looking down each one I was impressed how clean they were.
Well, I have an update: I have footage of the accident and the truck driver and his buddies driving generally recklessly just prior to the accident. I now know the truck company, and have exact time stamps with footage showing exactly what I described to a tee.
What if the springs are purchased separately from the struts; would they be better quality that way?
By the way, the factory original struts say "Monroe Sensi-Track" on them.
If you can find actual OE springs, they will be better than what you get in quick struts. If they are still available from the dealer, or if you can find ACDelco springs online that say "GM Original Equipment" they will be the actual OE springs and better than the aftermarket. Brand new OE springs may not be available anymore.
OTOH, if you buy aftermarket springs, including ACDelco "Professional" springs, they are no better than what comes on the quick struts.
The same goes for strut mounts as well.
If Monroe made the original factory struts on your car and Monroe is the OE supplier, there is certainly nothing wrong with using Monroe's quick struts for that application.