Unless it is the Zerex ASIAN coolant, then you need to flush it good. (yes there is a Zerex for Toyota called Zerex for Asian vehicle at WM).
The Asian coolant has no silicates.
If that Zerex have silicates then it will gel when mix with no silicates coolant. You need to check the label in the container.
Check Google for info.
Next time if you run out, you can just use DI or Distilled Water and you are set instead of putting another type of coolant. You can always add the right coolant later closer to winter since you probably need to add some anyway.
My regular is "old fashioned" rolled oats not instant. 3/4 cup of oats, cup of water, sliced banana or whatever fruit on hand.3 and 3/4 minutes in the microwave is all it needs. I can stand a spoon in it. Milk ,coffee,juice or nothing. I was following a recipe with the steel cut and wasn't being inventive. Making breakfast the night before isn't quite the no brainer nuking it while I brew coffee is
I have a truck because that is what I like to drive. My truck isn't the fancy model either, its an SXT, one up from base model. I don't need/want all the fancy stuff that comes on the high end trim levels. It was expensive enough in my eyes, just over $41,000 Can with taxes. I do use it to haul stuff the odd time, but mostly it is my daily driver. Why? Because I want it to be. It also gets way better than 10mpg as well.
Could be the stepper motor at the gauge cluster or even the cluster itself. I’ve had the oring issue that i fixed with a new oring. In that situation the oil pressure was low on a cold start up but would go to normal once warm. Then I had the situation you currently have. My gauge was all over the map for a few day then nothing. I replaced the sending unit behind the intake manifold. It worked for a day or two so i replaced it again but this time nothing at all. So my next thing will be to get the cluster rebuilt.
I had a tiny stone rattling around in the vanes of a vented brake disc once, sounded absolutely horrific. I disassembled the whole brake assembly twice, and on the second attempt the thing just fell out of the disc. One of those days when you don't know whether to laugh because the terrible noise isn't going to end in a terrible bill, or cry because of the time you wasted searching for a tiny stone. All part of life's rich tapestry I guess.
I just went back and re-read the entire thread. If you look at the pictures in the OP, that's the result I got. The front door to my house is about 30' away from where the car is parked and I can easily see my reflection. I can't help but to stare at it and I don't really care about such things. Amazing.
I have a 2017 Elantra. While the oil cap shows 5w20, the manual shows 5w30 for the same temperature range, and 10w30 for temps constantly above 0*. I personally run 5w30 year round. If I were farther south, I would go with the 10w30. The farthest I’ve run between changes is 7200 miles. I usually change it around 6200-6500 miles driving probably 85% highway mileage. I also use a Fram Ultra XG9688 filter and Quaker State Ultimate Durability oil.
I don't post pictures on the Internet. Have no picture hosting service and do not use Facebook, Twitter, IG, or any other.
I bounced the step ladder off the rocker and it skipped off. Have two small scratches. After washing and rinsing, I tried Meguiar's ScratckX 2.0. After waxing, the scratches are only visible to me because I know where to look. I can still catch my fingernail on each scratch. I'll try something more aggressive in the fall when I prep the car for winter.
The Toyota dealer here told me the same, also its lifetime fluid that never changes dialog as well. However seeing how the temps were crossing 200 on regular basis while doing hills and stop and go I decided it was not worth living with tranny shudder after warranty was over. I did read up about the 2019 Tundra cooler and you are right its very complicated and at this stage the warranty issues makes it non advisable. What I suggest is monitor your transmission temps and do a regular drain and fill.