The taste and quality of maple syrup varies considerably, although I agree with Snagglefoot that in general Canadian maple syrup is the best. That said, I like Anderson's maple syrup, which is Wisconsin made IIRC.
Regardless, I cannot understand how people can eat that fake corn fructose garbage. Gross!! It's real maple syrup for this Cali boy!
It's like that in other blue collar industries right now as well...people don't want to work. They don't want to work hard, work in the cold, hurt their hands, breath in stuff. They want a degree, a desk job, high pay and benefits. I can't really blame them.
I've noticed the same in construction. When I was a kid, it was all english speaking, old stock canadians. Now most tradesmen seem to be eastern europeans. Millenials didn't follow their parents into the trades.
Some good comments here. Another thing to consider; the oil companies spend a lot of time and money and resources to come up with optimal blends of oil that meet the specs they are shooting for. It’s hard to believe that a can of something can greatly improve that. Bigger numbers of moly or boron or whatever do not necessarily mean that it’s better.
Also, many components do not show up on a consumer analysis. So saying that one oil has a better additive package than another does not take in the product as a whole.
if you used the small odyssey then yes it would easily crank the engine we used to crank over a built 440 with one for racing. Note that race engines usually crank easier because of all the cam shaft overlap. Now though lithium is the hot ticket and even lighter.
Going off on a tangent here, but if there is a lithium starting battery out there that's reasonable in price (under say $400), will last a reasonable length of time in daily use (a couple of years anyway), and won't cause other issues in a modern vehicle, I'd sure like to hear about it.
Hello, Just posting the results from B.S.Labs on the above mentioned oil.I by no means am an oil expert,but I do know many oils are not inferior because they come in a generic bottle without being the official oil of 'Nascar'.I can purchase this oil for $30 for 2 gallons,$25 on sale. I change my oil often (every5-6k).Would appreciate any opinions on the oil for running it in both gas and diesel engines.Thanks
If you want OEM, find a dealer. If aftermarket is OK, then use an application guide. I’ve never seen a part number listed in an owners manual except for GM cars. My experience is limited though to a few cars.
Honda can be really convoluted with OEM part numbers. They’ll use a different part number (depending on the supplier) for the same application. I haven’t kept up with who they use, but back when I was getting filters for my Integra they included Toyo Roki (now Roki), Filtech (owned by Toyi Roki and now called Roki America), or Honeywell (Fram).
When you find yourself landing an F-14 on a runway instead of a carrier, do you approach it differently? By that I mean do you allow yourself the luxury of using up a couple thousand feet to, "grease it on", or do you fly the same type of approach as you would landing on a deck aiming for a wire?
Excessive oil consumptiion is determined by the manufacture. Since your oil consumption is just starting, bring the TL to the dealer and have this documented and see what the dealer determins what the next step will be. If they determine that you are not experiencing enough oil consumption for further action then I would change the PCV and go with the 5W30 that you mentioned just as a starting point. Others will chime in with other/better information.
Looks like someone has done that repair before, as they knew not to weld/braze on the belt side. You can see is a bit out of round as the gap must have grown when welded/brazed. Big stones to do that and run it on a customers car. Lucky it held.
12??? Before tax?? I have to check what their local price is. Duradrive is 7.36 a litre before tax.
Yeah there is a Petro Canada terminal not far from here and they have a walk-up in the same area and I inquired then.
Doesn't sound like a distributor to me. When I did my ATF change on Grand Caravan, I paid low $90s with taxes for a 12 liter case. I don't think their prices would jump this much. I just checked Petro-Canada website and I cannot find their distributor locator, so that's a bummer as it was pretty useful, although cumbersome to use.
If you're ever in north Etobicoke area here is the distributor I used, they're called R Kidd Fuels.
I thought the same thing....certainly too much for my blood. I plan to crawl underneath in a couple thousand miles and add some brand of lithium based NLGI#2 grease and then do it again at my next oil change.
Wendy's is probably forcing, through DNS, that all devices behind their router use Youtube Restricted Mode.
Youtube provides a couple of domains that...restrict content - at varying levels.
So, Wendy's isn't peering into your encrypted traffic, they're just telling your devices to use these restricted Youtube services that YT provides.
This all day. Just like if you set up filtering for your home wifi. Your VPN bypasses their network settings, hence the different results.
Don't understand the outrage here as it is Wendy's private network so they can do as they want.
Freedom of speech (non-censorship) and other rights are citizens' protection from the govt, not between private entities.
Ah, I did not know Youtube restricted mode uses a different domain, never used it, now that makes it would be super easy to DNS block for the end user. Yeah, I know you should always use a VPN on a public network, it's "downloadable easy" to see or middle man sniffing network traffic.
Since they running a youtube filter, next time I go back and see what Google does in the searches,. I do not patronage Corporations that attack the First Amendment, or promote Fake News.
I can give you 100% that if you use Supertech Synthetic and change it somewhere between 7500-10000 or 1 year, you will NOT have any oil related problems for 300,000+ miles. Heck maybe even 400,000. I guarantee you. No matter how you drive your car. That said i think the spec and viscosity per manufactorer is somewhat important too. Them clowns at the manufactorer dont know it all too. Id always bump up a grade higher say every 100,000 or so no matter if it burns/leaks oil or not. Its not all about oil. I know several people that ran cheapest conventional every 7,000-10,000 and still got 300,000 plus out of the engine. Almost always body will rust out before engine dies. So stop buying fancy oils that dump money into marketing and not their products. Buy Supertech, sleep well.