I'm curious as well on this EFI thing. No electrical power and the injector(s) won't inject fuel. It has to need power to start, which I suppose is no big deal because no larger OPE has pull start anyway and requires 12VDC to start.
20 years ago, Arctic Cat had one-pull EFI. One pull charged a capacitor, which ran the injectors.
That center tube looks amazing! Prime Guard has a similar looking filter, probably made by the same people. I just hope FRAM and Napa/Wix keep using hole center tubes. I'm not against louvers, provided they're open properly which most aren't it seems. Only louvers that look really good are the ones used on big truck filters, those are open WIDE like they should be! But the volume of oil that has to be filtered through one of those suckers is huge, there can't be any compromises.
It's hard to say, aren't majority of FRAMs 12psi? At least the ones for my Tacoma are, and others P/N# I've looked up. I don't know the OEM filter bypass rating for my Toyota so I dunno if it's a thing to worry about or not. Toyota has no flow, bypass, or efficiency ratings for any of their filters that I've been able to find anyway.
Another thing to think about, we are not sure what oil was used in the previous changes. A lot of suspect brands and products are in the Philippines. I know because I’ve spent considerable time there.
I would get oil from reliable sources like Petron for example.
As to the traffic, yes it is bad in pretty much any metro area on the planet but unless you have been in Manila or Bangkok for example, it’s hard to envision how bad it can get. These mega cities do not have the road infrastructure that most places enjoy. Add to that the willful disregard for traffic rules and courtesy and you end up with gridlock.
Just a trip from the Newport City complex to the airport which is right next door can take up to one hour. I have been through LA and the Bay Area and live in the Seattle metro but Manila is the worst by far.
LOL! On the days that he would use it, he'd drive from the north of Manila, to the airport! Every day (his job at the airline)! Traffic is horrendous. Add the constant 36C temps its no wonder engines here die brutal deaths.
I actually did a few fast oil changes using Petron conventional the day I got it. Took a peek down the oil fill, and, while it did look dirty, it didn't look that bad. It was only when I replaced the VC gaskets that I saw the full extent (the rear valvetrain looks a little bit worse). But the problem with Petron is that their oils bust seals. Once I put it in any of my previous cars, they start leaking.
Right now I've noted and will do 500 mile OICs using the cheapest fully synthetic I can find just like what most everyone has said. In about 6 months I'll then switch to M1 and be done with it.
Who in their right mind would use either of those oils for a 5k OCI? Get Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Plat with rebates and save some bucks. Even SuperTech synthetic would be more than good enough for that. You need at least a minimum 10k OCI to justify the cost of Amsoil or Shaeffer.
If I actually ran Amsoil for a 5k OCI, I would save money...
But I change my oil every 6mo.
Then M1, Pennzoil, Valvoline or Castrol synthetic would all do fine. It's your money, but I wouldn't waste it on expensive oil if you're going to dump it as often as you will. Use that to modify the car instead! Another thing you need to keep in mind is if the car starts to burn and or leak oil you'll need to keep extra quarts of Amsoil or Shaeffer on hand for top offs because you won't walk into any Walmart or parts store and buy that stuff off the shelf. That's one of the main reasons I stick with M1, it can be picked up virtually anywhere, even a lot of gas stations carry it.
If you google it there are ways to test your master and booster by how the brake pad feels when you start the car and turn it off. It sounds like your master is toast, and if what you say is true about the bleeders having wrench marks on them then you are not the first to come to this conclusion.
Wasn't the Nissan Endurance engine based off the VK-series V8s used in the Infiniti Q45/M45 of that time, just based off an iron block with bigger bores, a different intake setup and different heads? I wonder if Nissan managed to avoid the issues that plagued the VQ-series V6s with their V8, especially the oil gallery gasket issue.
I remember Nissan was touting the Titan V8 as the most powerful stock V8 before Toyota took that claim with the Tundra's 3UR-FE and not counting GM's 6.0/6.2L Vortecs - the Titan wasn't a hot seller and it's certainly one of the most underrated trucks on the road.
One would hope the revamp would have solved these issues. I have read up on the new engine but never see that comparison. Something to study for sure. I have a neighbor that has 145k miles on a early 2016 Titan. He has nothing negative to say so far.
Startup wear on cool/cold morning...again, how ?...0W isn't needed until quite a few 10s of degrees below zero...."cool" mornings, 10W, 15W, and 20W will not increase wear...with a PD pump, well into the pumpable range, they all get there at the same time.
No, VII only works at warm to hot temperatures, increases visc there. Remember 0w20 is made with thinner base oils than 5w20. Also, there was a study showing that as long as startup visc is different, startup wear is different. That engineering study already refuted debunked remarks by you in another thread, yet there you go again. ...0w20 and 5w20 differ in visc below about room temperature as the VII becomes less effective.