Ok, let me ask you again, since you dodged my question the first time:
What would you consider acceptable proof? Is there anything reasonable?
What would you consider acceptable proof? Is there anything reasonable?
Which 5w30 for gen lll Coyote 5.0?
- Thread starter Toy4x4
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by burla
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Why are you even arguing about this?
Because he belongs to a group of old school BITOGers that simply wont adapt to new information regardless how much info or evidence is on the other side. THEY have a position and they guard it like it was their virgin's daughters innocence. I'm not sure more what someone can do then supply many long term uoa's, video's before and after, and multiple mutiple different guys experience with different formulas that do alleviate tick. I'm not even sure if they had an engine that ticked and they "cured" it with the extra lubrication these formulas do seam to provide in the situations of ticking engines, that they would even awkowledge it. The science says it works, that is why they make these formulas in the first place. Only this place has been dumbed down so much, they forgot the science that made BITOG famous in the first place. Before BITOG I promise you nobody knew about grouping of oil bases or viewed the science behind additives. Now, this group basically says all of that info is hog wash. Nah, the group is hogwash, reform gentlemen or risk being irrelevant. Don't be so suprised the science of lubrication is the only salvation in many of these cases as the dealers wont help and you trusted them and now you have a ticking engine that has lost value, good luck trying to sell a ticking engine, the dealer only cares when it blows, and then they will dog you anyhow. The only other answer which is liely the best answer if figure out what is happening on a mechinecal level and fix it, but let's be honest not a lot of guys feel comfortable tearing down a modern engine. Once again, no downside to following the science and try things that science says can effect the extra frictional forces that take place in these spots of mechainical tick.
You write a lot about nothing. There simply is no facts to support your theory and you are unable understand this. It's not "Old School" about needing facts to prove something true it's called common sense.
Jeez, if I listen to you enough maybe I would doubt my own experience as I was the first to have the distinction of reporting ending his hemi tick with redline, a result that has been repeaded with nearly 50 random forum members since, maybe more since 2011. We stopped counting after 30 members a couple years back eventhough the testamonials keep coming. Over there it is just a fact, the best proven chance is this oil. It didn't work in every ticking hemi, but enough to know it is worth a shot. Funny most of them have the same thing happen, it takes from 500 to 1700 miles to have the best result, then the tick disapears. Which lends itself to be something other then viscosity going on. Over here it is easy to throw shade, try that over there, you will just get laughed out of the building. The worst part of this is the oil that was successful, if it was a different oil it would have been more accepted. Trust me the largest disapointment is there aren't more options, at least not ones we have found. Even other redline formulas have not been nearly as successful, it is literally 5w30 redline and not 10w30 or 5w20 in most cases. For the 6.4 same thing, it was 5w40 redline and not 0w40 or 10w40. Hopefully guys with tick find more answers, that is all I am interested in.
Originally Posted by burla
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Why are you even arguing about this?
Because he belongs to a group of old school BITOGers that simply wont adapt to new information regardless how much info or evidence is on the other side. THEY have a position and they guard it like it was their virgin's daughters innocence. I'm not sure more what someone can do then supply many long term uoa's, video's before and after, and multiple mutiple different guys experience with different formulas that do alleviate tick. I'm not even sure if they had an engine that ticked and they "cured" it with the extra lubrication these formulas do seam to provide in the situations of ticking engines, that they would even awkowledge it. The science says it works, that is why they make these formulas in the first place. Only this place has been dumbed down so much, they forgot the science that made BITOG famous in the first place. Before BITOG I promise you nobody knew about grouping of oil bases or viewed the science behind additives. Now, this group basically says all of that info is hog wash. Nah, the group is hogwash, reform gentlemen or risk being irrelevant. Don't be so suprised the science of lubrication is the only salvation in many of these cases as the dealers wont help and you trusted them and now you have a ticking engine that has lost value, good luck trying to sell a ticking engine, the dealer only cares when it blows, and then they will dog you anyhow. The only other answer which is liely the best answer if figure out what is happening on a mechinecal level and fix it, but let's be honest not a lot of guys feel comfortable tearing down a modern engine. Once again, no downside to following the science and try things that science says can effect the extra frictional forces that take place in these spots of mechainical tick.
You write a lot about nothing. There simply is no facts to support your theory and you are unable understand this. It's not "Old School" about needing facts to prove something true it's called common sense.
Jeez, if I listen to you enough maybe I would doubt my own experience as I was the first to have the distinction of reporting ending his hemi tick with redline, a result that has been repeaded with nearly 50 random forum members since, maybe more since 2011. We stopped counting after 30 members a couple years back eventhough the testamonials keep coming. Over there it is just a fact, the best proven chance is this oil. It didn't work in every ticking hemi, but enough to know it is worth a shot. Funny most of them have the same thing happen, it takes from 500 to 1700 miles to have the best result, then the tick disapears. Which lends itself to be something other then viscosity going on. Over here it is easy to throw shade, try that over there, you will just get laughed out of the building. The worst part of this is the oil that was successful, if it was a different oil it would have been more accepted. Trust me the largest disapointment is there aren't more options, at least not ones we have found. Even other redline formulas have not been nearly as successful, it is literally 5w30 redline and not 10w30 or 5w20 in most cases. For the 6.4 same thing, it was 5w40 redline and not 0w40 or 10w40. Hopefully guys with tick find more answers, that is all I am interested in.
Originally Posted by dave1251
There is no extra proof. You continue to post testimonials not proof why can't you understand this. Also when you add to motor oils at best you do nothing not increase it's friction modification properties. You have been here and you don't know this? What have you been doing other than posting over 20K posts of fluff? When you make statements like your above post it shows you don't have a quarter of understanding and knowledge you claim to have.
So you're viewpoint is people that use a product and can tell a difference in engine sound, or some other perceivable difference (engine smoothness, HP, fuel mileage, etc) are just hallucinating on the perceived difference. Guys who have ticking engines and hear it every time they drive their car can certainly tell when the tick is there or not there.
You've been here a long time too, and obviously have some deep rooted misconceptions going on. Might want to take blinders off and do some more research on what people are experiencing out in the real world - bet you haven't even read any Mustang chat boards on the typewriter tick subject matter. I make the simple comment that many Mustang guys with ticking Coyotes have reported using certain additives that have cured the ticking, and you start foaming at the mouth like a "flat earther" when someone said the earth is round, instead of going out there and finding out for yourself what the Mustang community has been saying for a long time about the ticking (since 2011). Looking at some of your posts, seems about everything ever claimed or said is an "internet myth" - lol.
And as others in this thread have asked you more than once - what proof do you need it works for many to stop the ticking? A "flat earther" would have to build his own rocket ship and take a trip into space to convince himself the earth was round - and even then he still might not believe what he saw.
There is no extra proof. You continue to post testimonials not proof why can't you understand this. Also when you add to motor oils at best you do nothing not increase it's friction modification properties. You have been here and you don't know this? What have you been doing other than posting over 20K posts of fluff? When you make statements like your above post it shows you don't have a quarter of understanding and knowledge you claim to have.
So you're viewpoint is people that use a product and can tell a difference in engine sound, or some other perceivable difference (engine smoothness, HP, fuel mileage, etc) are just hallucinating on the perceived difference. Guys who have ticking engines and hear it every time they drive their car can certainly tell when the tick is there or not there.
You've been here a long time too, and obviously have some deep rooted misconceptions going on. Might want to take blinders off and do some more research on what people are experiencing out in the real world - bet you haven't even read any Mustang chat boards on the typewriter tick subject matter. I make the simple comment that many Mustang guys with ticking Coyotes have reported using certain additives that have cured the ticking, and you start foaming at the mouth like a "flat earther" when someone said the earth is round, instead of going out there and finding out for yourself what the Mustang community has been saying for a long time about the ticking (since 2011). Looking at some of your posts, seems about everything ever claimed or said is an "internet myth" - lol.
And as others in this thread have asked you more than once - what proof do you need it works for many to stop the ticking? A "flat earther" would have to build his own rocket ship and take a trip into space to convince himself the earth was round - and even then he still might not believe what he saw.
Maybe it is time to ignore Dave and compare notes. Do you have a uoa of that product? Does it have Moly? We have had hit and miss luck with moly additives, one we haven't tried yet was molygen's additive, it is reporded to have same moly as in redline, not powdered moly in suspension. Also, lube guards biotech has been hit and miss, and that does have oil soluble moly. Trying to see if there is anything all of these formulas have in common. Maybe we need guys with hemi tick to try this before redline next time.
Originally Posted by rooflessVW
Ok, let me ask you again, since you dodged my question the first time:
What would you consider acceptable proof? Is there anything reasonable?
There was no dodging it has to be proof not testimonials for blenders there is accepted peer reviewed SAE standard testing with data comparing with and without data I'm not sure you are capable of understanding this judging by you questions.
Ok, let me ask you again, since you dodged my question the first time:
What would you consider acceptable proof? Is there anything reasonable?
There was no dodging it has to be proof not testimonials for blenders there is accepted peer reviewed SAE standard testing with data comparing with and without data I'm not sure you are capable of understanding this judging by you questions.
And to add ... so you don't like testimonials and therefore don't believe the YouTube videos people post of their ticking Coyote, and then add Ceratec or some other similar anti-friction additive and record it again 10 minutes later and the ticking is gone. So essentially you're saying they are all lairs and have edited the sound track on their videos to fool everyone ... lol. If you read Mustang6G there are many guys there that said their ticking was fixed with certain oils and/or an additive. The ticking is affected by the oil and friction level between parts. Find the right oil or oil/additive combo and many get rid of the ticking - it's a fact, no "SAE paper" or some "official study" required for those who have a bit of critical thinking skills.
QSUD 5w-30 on sale at WM today $17.97. Very good Noack and pretty good TBN.
I own an s550 mustang...the additive these 18+ guys keep talking about is snake oil. Facts. Some of these idiots don't even know the difference between typical noise from direct injection versus the piston slapping noise. I came here looking for some good info but there's much misinformation just like any other forum.
By the way, i use goold old rorella t6 in my coyote and she's purring along fine even with 14 psi of boost making over 800hp.
By the way, i use goold old rorella t6 in my coyote and she's purring along fine even with 14 psi of boost making over 800hp.
Originally Posted by Falcon_LS
I'm running 5W-50 right off the bat. Wouldn't consider 5W-20 in 125+°F, even if the vehicle is being driven normally.
I'd say you're our resident authority when it comes to driving in hot climates! 5W20 in 125F, spec'd or not I wouldn't even consider it.
I'm running 5W-50 right off the bat. Wouldn't consider 5W-20 in 125+°F, even if the vehicle is being driven normally.
A buddy of mine is pushing 500rwhp on a built Coyote, and I believe he's running Redline 5W40 with no problems. This is with pretty regular track use, both road course and drag strip
Originally Posted by Pongo23
I own an s550 mustang...the additive these 18+ guys keep talking about is snake oil. Facts. Some of these idiots don't even know the difference between typical noise from direct injection versus the piston slapping noise. I came here looking for some good info but there's much misinformation just like any other forum.
By the way, i use goold old rorella t6 in my coyote and she's purring along fine even with 14 psi of boost making over 800hp.
What viscosity are you running?
Lots of guys on M6G have had success quieting the BBQ tick (what Ford calls the typewriter tick) with Ceratec, or by running a thicker oil. Obviously, it won't quiet piston slap or DI pump noise.
I own an s550 mustang...the additive these 18+ guys keep talking about is snake oil. Facts. Some of these idiots don't even know the difference between typical noise from direct injection versus the piston slapping noise. I came here looking for some good info but there's much misinformation just like any other forum.
By the way, i use goold old rorella t6 in my coyote and she's purring along fine even with 14 psi of boost making over 800hp.
What viscosity are you running?
Lots of guys on M6G have had success quieting the BBQ tick (what Ford calls the typewriter tick) with Ceratec, or by running a thicker oil. Obviously, it won't quiet piston slap or DI pump noise.
Originally Posted by Toy4x4
Thanks guys! Pretty much what I was thinking myself of going with M1 or PP 5w30 with the -B1 spec. Though I did think about using M1 0w40 since that is what I'm using in the 4Runner and would be great to have just one oil for both vehicles.
Gary - Your manual is probably different as this is a Gen 3 motor.
Just use the 5w30 in both. Don't think the 4 runner needs 0w40.
Thanks guys! Pretty much what I was thinking myself of going with M1 or PP 5w30 with the -B1 spec. Though I did think about using M1 0w40 since that is what I'm using in the 4Runner and would be great to have just one oil for both vehicles.
Gary - Your manual is probably different as this is a Gen 3 motor.
Just use the 5w30 in both. Don't think the 4 runner needs 0w40.
Im going to say two oils...
Amsoil Signature Series 5W30
Shell Rotella T6 5W30 Multi Vehicle
In both cases I would add Liqui Moly MOS moly additive and use Royal Purple filter.
As for warranty concerns I cant speak to those issues. When I brought my truck in with camphaser issues no one asked what oil I used.
In testing, UOAs, both oils did really well.
Amsoil Signature Series 5W30
Shell Rotella T6 5W30 Multi Vehicle
In both cases I would add Liqui Moly MOS moly additive and use Royal Purple filter.
As for warranty concerns I cant speak to those issues. When I brought my truck in with camphaser issues no one asked what oil I used.
In testing, UOAs, both oils did really well.
- Status